Thirty Six Officers Quilt Top Tutorial

Another idea taken from the mathematics fact book (of which I should really find the actual name so that I can link to it), is the "Thirty-Six Officers Problem". My last one was the Penrose Tile post.

Wikipedia states:

"The thirty-six officers problem is a mathematical puzzle proposed by Leonhard Euler in 1782.

The problem asks if it is possible to arrange 6 regiments consisting of 6 officers each of different ranks in a 6 × 6 square so that no rank or regiment will be repeated in any row or column. Such an arrangement would form a Graeco-Latin square."

Can't you see how this would be an ideal pattern for a quilt? 
I just love the mathematics of quilting!

So I started playing around with the idea as a basis for a larger project. In the original problem, you would have 6 squares of each colour displayed in a way that looks random, but isn't really.

Using a jelly Roll, you would need 15 inches (plus slack) for each colour for a block finish size of 12 inches x 12 inches (plus 1/2 inch each side seam allowance).

Nine blocks would make a good cot quilt, 35 squares a good single bed, 80 a good double or queen size, then add sashing and surrounds.

Using a Charm Pack you would need 6 squares (5 inches x 5 inches) for each colour for finished block of 27 inches x 27 inches + seam. 36 charm pieces are needed for the entire pattern (most charm packs are 42 squares worth, with two squares the same).  So buying a few packs of the same design would work wonderfully.

Using a layer cake, you would need 6 squares at (10 inches x 10 inches) for each colour. Each block would be 57 inches plus seam allowance.

It would look quite effective as an Autumn Colour Scheme.

And equally as nice as a monochromatic version.

Assembling the blocks:

What type of patchworker are you? If you are precise I would sew this quilt row by row. If not, sew four squares together to make a small block, measure and trim. Then sew another 4 together, and so on.  

But if you are not a quilter, this pattern could work equally well as a crochet blanket.

If you end up making one of these quilts based on these ideas, please leave a comment and let me know!

Enjoy!

Margaret  

Monochromatic Sampler: Block Eight

I've had this entry sitting in my drafts folder for a few weeks now, just waiting the finishing touches. I am anxious to get this quilt and the blogging associated with it finished as young Nicholas is becoming more and more aware of what is going on around him.

The construction of the Pinwheel block uses a similar technique to the Diamonds block. Create a square and rotate it by putting triangle sides on it.

Create the Pinwheel

Cut:

• Two squares 3 1/2 inches square in White
• Two squares 3 1/2 inches square in Black

Pin both squares together and rule a line from opposite corners of the squares.
Use this line as a guide to run a stitch down the squares either side of the line. Seam allowance 1/4 inch.

Cut down the centre of the stitching and then open and press with your iron. You should have four squares ready to go!

From each square, you should get two blades on your pinwheel. Sew blocks together carefully making sure that you line up your seams.

If your seams match up correctly, you should have a nicely lined up pinwheel measuring 6 inches squared.

Cut:

• Two squares measuring 4 1/2 inches square in White

Cut the squares in half and attach two to the sides of the pinwheel. Trim and then attach the last two triangles.

You should have a nice sexy pinwheel ready for a border! Trim your pinwheel border leaving at least 1/4 inch between the edge of the pinwheel and the outside of your square. My finished square finished at 8 3/4 inches squared.

Cut a 2 1/2 inch width strip and attach a border to your pinwheel.

Voila, another finished block!

I haven't given much thought yet as to how I might quilt this piece, any ideas? I'd love to try freehand quilting like Kellie does, but I am not that confident!

Are you making these blocks as well? Add your pictures to the Flickr group.

Monochromatic Sampler: Block Six Tutorial

The technique used for this block could very well be used for a black star on white fabric block. Although the original design has three starts on white, when I was putting this block together I felt like I wanted a bit of Konstant Kaos in the quilt.

I wanted to play around with a different applique technique this time. I've done raw edges and reverse applique, this one uses Freeze Paper.

Cut our fabric:

• 10 1/2 inch by 10 1/2 inch square in Black
  
• One star in colour of choice
  

To get the star shape I used a Wingding in MS Word and enlarged it to 650 font size (re-adjusted the font style to outline) then printed it out.

Applique Shape

Cut some Freeze paper the size of your star or stars. We are going to use the Freeze paper to fold over and press the edges of the star so that there are as little raw edges as possible.

Another quilter at the Melbourne Modern Quilt Guild showed me this technique. She used it for hexing and used a clover mini iron press to press her hexes rather than baste her them before hand sewing them together. I want to try this with the Penrose Tiles Quilt. This does mean that you have to cut freeze paper in hex shapes, but I am sure that there is a paper punch out there somewhere that does it!

Cut your freeze paper star and start to gently press the edges over with no steam. Upto you whether you trim down the corners or fold them over. For this one, I trimmed the corners out so that it wouldn't b so bulky as an applique.

The result should be an applique with nice crisp lines.

Carefully remove the star from the Freeze paper, it should hold it's shape for long enough to sew it onto your fabric.

A bit of fray lock can be used on any raw edges, alternatively, you could have folded those edges over.

Attaching the applique

I used a strip of double sided interfacing around the perimeter of the star to lock the pressed edges in place. Alternatively, you could have cut out a star from double sided interfacing.

Remove the paper backing of the double sided interfacing and press in place onto your backing fabric.

Around the edges I used the blanket stitch on my sewing machine, but you could just as easily zig zag or straight stitch.

How are you going with the tutorials? I would really love some feedback on whether the instructions are clear and concise.

Monochromatic Sampler: Block Four Tutorial

This block is the easiest! Basically a whole stack of stripes!

Cut

• Three strips of 7 1/2 length by 1 inch in White
• Four Strips of 7 1/2 length by 2 inches in Black

Sew together

Sew together the three white strips with a black strip until you have three stripes.

Then attach all of them together, attaching the left over black strip at the bottom.

Sashing

Cut

• A strip of 2 1/2 inch width by the length of your material (42 inches).

Add sashing to the top of the block and then sides of the block.

Looking back at my block, I should have done sides first then the top and bottom. But when I constructed the block, doing the top and bottom and then sides seemed more logical. It's upto you!

Trim the sashes to complete the block. Remember that when we construct the quilt, we will probably trim all the blocks down to one uniform size.

Voila! Finished!

Are following along with the Monochromatic quilting adventures?

Monochromatic Sampler: Block Three Tutorial

I have effectionately named this block "building blocks". I could imagine that in another quilt you could applique numbers or letters onto the blocks and create a nice effect.

The concept seemed a lot easier on paper when I first drew it. My first attempt at this block resulted in a block that was too small. So I unpicked it and re-did it to made the sides of each row longer than the 10 1/2 inch square block so that it can be trimmed down at the end once all the other blocks are done.

Cut a few strips of white and black at the standard width of 2 1/2 inches.

Row One

We'll start with the row with three "building blocks" and work our way up the block.

Cut:

• Three pieces of 2 1/2 inches by 2 1/2 inches in Black and
  
• Two pieces of 2 1/2 inches by 1 1/4 inches in White.
  

Sew together but remember to press, measure and trim after each line of stitching.

Complete the row by attaching two blocks of 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 in White either side of the three blocks.

Once finished add the spacer to the top of the row.

Cut

• 12 1/2 inch length of your 2 1/2 inch sash and cut it in half. We will use one half for the Row 1 spacer and the other half for the Row 2 spacer.

Attach spacer to the top of the row, press, measure and trim if needed.

Row Two

Cut

• Two 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 blocks in Black and
  
• one piece of 2 1/2 by 1 1/4 in White.

Sew together but remember to press, measure and trim after each line of stitching to make sure that your black blocks are 2 1/4 inches in width before sewing on the sides.

Complete the row by attaching two blocks of 4 inches by 2 1/2 in White either side of the two building blocks.

Once finished add the spacer to the top of the second row. Use the second half of the spacer from Row One, 12 1/2 inches by 2 1/2 inches in White.

Attach spacer to the top of the row, press, measure and trim if needed.

Row Three

The fastest row of all!

Cut

• One 2 1/2 inch sqare in black
• Two 5 1/2 strips of 2 1/2 inch height in white

Attach the sides to the "building block" and then press with iron.

Compiling the block

Sew each row together.

To line up the blocks I folded the middle block in half, gave it a quick press and used this to line up the blocks above it. The blocks have to line up or the effect will not look as good. Don't trust the perimeter of your rows, as due to stitch length the rows may be different lengths.

After the blocks are joined, sash the top and bottom in 2 1/2 inches height white, at a length or width of 12 1/2 inches.

This block will be bigger than the first two, but that is ok, as we are going to cut them all down to the same size before we sew them together.

Three blocks down, six to go!

Are following along with the Monochromatic quilting adventures? Let me know!

Monochromatic Sampler: Block Two Tutorial

Ideally it would have been great for this block to have been the size of an actual Chess Board, But that would have either made the patches too fiddly or the blocks too big.

Preparing the strips

Take two 2 1/2 inch strips of fabric, black and white, and then cut them down the middle to make two 1 1/4 inch strips. Alternatively you can of course use scraps to make this block from all your other blocks at the end of the quilt.

Press and splice

Sew the two strips together, press and then cut in half and then sew together again, until you have eight alternating fabric strips sewn together. Remember to press, measure and trim if needed inbetween sewing each time to make sure that you get the size of your strips accurate. Each strip should be 3/4 inch thickness. I ended up pressing the seams towards the black rather than flat. It gives the black patching a raised look.

Pin and sew

Once you have a strip of eight together, slice them so that you have rows of 1 1/4 inch strips. I tend to pin from the centre of the row outwards. If there is a lot of difference in the seams, then try another piece. I only had to unpick two of my rows to make them line up.

Once you have your chess board constructed, make sure that the last row is 1 inch thick all around with your ruler.

Sashing the block

Once finished, sash the block in one 2 1/2 inch strip. the block itself might be a little larger than your first one, but don't trim just yet. Wait until we have all our blocks done first before we trim down.

An alternative way of construction might be to use Oh Franssons! Quick-piece tiny squares method of using interfacing to construct the chess board.

Are you joining in? Get your Monochromatic Sampler icon here and join upto the Flickr group and post your blocks.

Now I am off to clean my iron!

Monochromatic Sampler: Block One Tutorial

I started doing the blocks for my Monochromatic Sampler on Saturday and since then have unpicked and re-sewn them. Why? I bought myself a 1/4 inch seam foot for my machine and I have decided that I don't like it. I would much rather use the regular foot, my masking tape seam allowance and press and trim to make sure that I get the fabric widths right. It does mean that I end up with lots of off cuts. But my daughter and her craft table doesn't seem to mind!

I guess I started with a simple block. For this one I cut two strips of 1 1/4 inch width sashes from your fabric. Or one 2 1/2 inch sash in half from a Jelly Roll.

First Row

For this block I started in the centre and I worked out. Cut two strips of 1 1/4 inch width pieces of fabric with your rotary cutter and rather than cut each section exactly, sew and trim.

Second Row

Once your first row is completed, press and trim and continue on with the sewing. Because this block is quite fiddly, rather than double back at the end of each row, reduce the stitch length. I use a little scrap of fabric at the end of each row that I sew onto after I have finished my stitching to hold the thread and reduce thread waste.

Third Row

It is important inbetween each row to square up your sides and make sure that your block has right angles.

Fourth Row

I decided that I would press my seams into the black areas of these blocks rather than press them open. Why? Given that I am dealing with so much white, it just looked neater and it makes the black sections look raised. I haven't decided what type of quilting to do just yet.

Fifth and final row

The last row is in 2 1/2 inch sashes. I fear that when I have all the blocks done, I will then trim this down, but until I know the exact sizes of my blocks this is what I am running with.

Finished width for my block was 10 3/4 inches which I might trim down to 10 1/4 once all the other blocks are done for the wall hanging.