Sew-Along: Pockets, Side Seams, and Sleeves

Hey Sew-Alongers! I've spent this week trying to get my coat to the point of setting in the sleeves, since there will definitely be a video for that step (hopefully it will be up Sunday!). Here are the little steps in between, which are all pretty simple.

First, how is everyone doing with the pockets? The instructions are very straightforward; just be sure to use a 3/8" seam allowance when you sew the pockets to each coat piece.

 Next, sew the side seams, going around each pocket, and using your regular seam allowance. I went back and did a second line of stitching on the pockets, 1/8" away from the first. This just gives you some reinforcement on an area that gets a lot of stress.

I'm not doing topstitching on my coat, so I pressed the seams open. This requires clipping the seam allowances above and below the pockets.

Then stitch the shoulder seams. I catch-stitched my shoulder and side seam allowances down, as we did on previous steps.

Yay, now we're up to the sleeves! Sharon says that the under sleeve can always use some extra support, so I fused the entire piece. (An alternative is to baste hair canvas to it.) My fusible ends 1-1/2" from the bottom so it doesn't get doubled up in the hem.

Remember how we added bias strips of interfacing to the coat back to support the hem? Since the sleeves also have a hem, I suggest doing the same thing on the upper sleeve.

Now sew those sleeve pieces together! Catch stitch seam allowances down, if desired. (And if you can do so without it showing on the outside of the fabric.)

Next step: setting in the sleeve! I'm using the method I vlogged about last winter (see it here) but this time I'm going to use Kenneth King's method of using wool/mohair strips rather than hair canvas. You can also use strips of lambswool or even fleece, or just set your sleeves in the traditional way with two rows of gathering stitches. I will explain further in a new video! And then we'll move on to pad stitching the collar.

How's everyone doing?