Casa de Segunda (Lipa City, Batangas)

Casa de Segunda

After lunch at Liam’s Lomi House, we still had time to kill before checking in at The Zen Villas Resort so we decided to visit Casa de Segunda which was just a 1.7 km. (10-min.) drive away.

Also known as Luz–Katigbak House, the well-preserved Casa de Segunda is a heritage house built in the 1880s and owned by Don Manuel Mitra de San Miguel-Luz and Doña Segunda Solis Katigbak, Dr. José Rizal’s first love.

The quatrefoil-shaped, brick fountain

In 1956, the house was repaired by Paz Luz-Dimayuga who  serves as one of the caretakers of the house museum and, in 1996, after the house and its surrounding compound was renovated, was declared as a national Heritage House by the National Historic Institute.

Our guide discussing the history of the house at the zaguan

The present heiresses, the great-granddaughters of Doña Segunda Katigbak-Luz, maintain and manage the house, as well as Ms. Lilith Malabanan (great great grandchild of Segunda), who lives near Casa de Segunda.  At present, the house was converted into a museum.

Portrait of the young Segunda Katigbak

We entered the house through a nondescript entrance gate (designed by Lucila “Luchi” Reyes-Resurreccion during the 1996 renovation) and into an inner courtyard, with weathered red tiles, whose focal point is a quatrefoil-shaped, brick fountain, fishpond, and an orchard.

Portraits of Segunda’s parents and photos of the families of Luz-Katigbak heirs

Upon entry, we were met by a caretaker who lives at the adjoining replica of a 19th-century house, which was occupied by one of the Luz–Katigbak heirs.

The zaguan

She acted as our guide around the house which we entered via the zaguan (entrance), the storage area for agricultural harvests and the family’s carroza (processional carriage) for the revered santo and, now, the receiving area for the visitors of the museum.

The comedor (dining area)

Its floor is paved with black-and-white machuca tiles which were partially damaged during the bombing of Lipa during the World War II.  It featured information materials, cultural artifacts and a copy of a portrait of Segunda as well as the portrait of her parents and photographs of the families of the Luz–Katigbak heirs.

The entresuelo (servant’s quarters) which also served as an office

According to her, the Luz–Katigbak House was one of the houses built by Don Norberto Calao Katigbak, a gobernadorcillo, from 1862 to 1863, who was known to own big parcels of land in Batangas.

Ascending the hagdan (grand staircase) to the piso principal (main floor)

The Katigbaks were one of the richest families in the province. Part of their wealth was attributed to the coffee industry, being one of the major business ventures in the past. Norberto was married to Doña Justa Mitra de San Miguel-Solis and their daughter was Doña Segunda Solis Katigbak (1863-1943).

The sala mayor (living area)

Our National Hero José Rizal was captivated by the 14-year old, charming and graceful Segunda whom he met through his sister, Olimpia who was one of her classmates at Colegio de la Immaculada Concepcion de la Concordia in Santa Ana, Manila.

Antique piano and violin

Don Mariano Solis-Katigbak, Segunda’s older brother, also was a close friend and classmate of Rizal at Ateneo Municipal. However, as Segunda was already betrothed to her uncle Don Manuel Mitra de San Miguel-Luz (1858-1942) from a wealthy family in Lipa, Batangas), Rizal never proposed.

Full length Venetian mirror

Eventually, Don Manuel and the 16-year old Doña Segunda got married, on January 12, 1879, and had 14 children, 9 of whom survived to mature age.

A pair of butakas (birthing chairs)

Known in the province as a family of scholars, political leaders, professionals and artists, one of its descendants of the Luz–Katigbaks is Arturo R. Luz, a National Artist for Visual Arts.

Painting of San Sebastian Cathedral

This house was originally built on a square plan, with an azotea (terrace) extending it into an L-shaped plan.  The adobe wall, at the ground floor, was plastered with lime mortar.

Manual sewing machine

The house was also one of the set locations for Pulang Lupa, a 2024 Philippine drama series starring Barbie Forteza, Sanya Lopez, David Licauco and Alden Richards.

Oratorio (prayer area)

From the zaguan, we moved on to the comedor (dining area), below the azotea, which has a pleasant view of the inner courtyard.  We also entered the entresuelo, meant to be the servants’ quarters but sometimes used as an office.

The master bedroom with narra 4-poster bed and two butakas

We then went up the hagdan (grand staircase) leading up to the sala mayor (living room), at the piso principal (main floor), whose flooring were made out of mid-sized narra planks, of deep warm color. It is furnished with 19th century furniture (including a large, chic Venetian mirror), valuable heirloom pieces, paintings and antique portraits.

Vanity table with full length mirror

The three sides of the room were surrounded by wood and capiz sliding windows, which protect the room from rain water without blocking the sunlight, and persiana panels which serves as the second layer of the windows, providing ample protection from sunlight.

The children’s bedroom

Below the pasamano  (window sills) are ventanillas with balusters, which draw up the prevailing breeze inside the house. The transom (upper part of the window) was protected by wood and capiz panels, in a diagonal pattern, which maintain soft lighting in the house.

The azotea (terrace)

On both sides of the staircase are the cuartos (bedrooms) while behind it is an impressive oratorio (prayer area) featuring a magnificent, locally-made Batangas uno mesa altar with statues of saints displayed on top. Two antique frames encase Segunda’s novena and prayer pamphlets.

A retablo ((altarpiece)

The master bedroom is furnished with a carved, 4-poster narra bed, accentuated with crocheted bed fineries, lace curtains, an aparador (wardrobe) and a vanity table with a full-length mirror.  We finally visited the azotea, whose open portions are protected by restored balusters and, from there, went down a staircase, to the inner courtyard.

L-R: Reden Espinosa,  Beth Espinosa,  Grace, Jandy and the author

Casa de Segunda: 96 Rizal Street, 4217 Lipa City, Batangas.  Tel: (043) 784 1952. Mobile number: (0977) 425-7598. Admission: Php100 (Php75 for seniors and PWD). Open daily, 8 AM to 5 PM.

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral (Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental)

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral

Just walking distance from the City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center is the Neo-Gothic-style St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral, the ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Cagayan de Oro (canonically erected on January 23, 1933).

Check out “City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center

The Neo-Gothic-style facade

This church was first built in 1624 by Father Agustin San Pedro but both church and convent burned down in 1778.  Rebuilt in 1780 by Father Pedro de Santa Barbara, it again burned down in 1831.

The cathedral interior

In 1845, it was rebuilt with coral stones imported from China by Augustinian Recollect Father Simon Loscos de Sta. Catalina but it was destroyed during the World War II bombardment in 1945.  Only the facade and the wooden cross in front survived.

A 1925 photo of the church’s original Baroque-style facade

The present Neo-Gothic-style cathedral was built from 1946 to 1951 by Archbishop James T.G. Hayes, S.J.D.D., the first bishop of Cagayan de Oro.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Comparing an old 1925 and present photo of the church, the Baroque-style facade of the church seemed to have survived the 1945 bombing but it was greatly altered during the rebuilding.  The semicircular arched windows were replaced by Gothic-style lancet windows, a portico was added and the finials at the ends of the triangular pediment (its raking cornice now adorned with drip molding) were not restored.

Only the base (now square), of the formerly octagonal bell tower (beneath which is the grave of Father Ramon Zueco de San Joaquin who died in 1889 in Cagayan de Oro), on church’s left, remains. A new bell tower, on the church’s right was, instead, built.

Stained glass window

Its nine century-old stained glass windows, the work of well-known masters, depict the life of Christ and came from the Chapel of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart (now the Church of the Sacred Hearts of Mary and Jesus), an old  Gothic-style chapel built in 1882 in New York.

Stained glass window

The bells, hung in the new bell tower in 1950, were fashioned from the church’s old bells shattered during World War II – San Agustin (1807), Santa Ana (1813) and El Salvador (1857).

The Relic Chapel

Just outside the porte-cochere is a wooden Sta. Cruz built by Augustinian Recollect friars in 1888, the only relic that remains of the church’s Hispanic past.

The Spanish-era wooden cross

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral: Barangay I, Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental.  Tel: (088) 857-2139.  Feast of St. Augustine, Bishop of Hippo: August 28.

How to Get There: Cagayan de Oro City is located 94.4 kilometers (a 2-hour drive) from Malaybalay City (Bukidnon) and 88.7 kilometers (a 1.75-hour drive) from Iligan City (Lanao del Norte).

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center (Misamis Oriental)

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center

We still had time to kill as we made our way to Laguindingan Airport for our return flight to Manila, so Wyller Manus, our Bukidnon tour guide, suggested we make a stopover at Cagayan de Oro City to visit the 3-storey City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center.

Museum facade

Here, we were welcomed and toured around the museum by Mr. Jesus Christopher “JC” F. Salon, acting curator of the museum.

Mr. Christopher F. Salon (third from left) discussing the Higaunon Bancaso (ritual table)

Located across the street from Gaston Park, this museum, a fine example of adaptive reuse, is housed in an old cylindrical water tower that sourced water, for 3,000 people, from Mahuganao Spring, Brgy. Cugman in Malasag Hills.

Exhibit on the indigenous people of Cagayan de Oro

Built from 1919 to 1922, it survived the September 1944 American bombing during World War II and is considered as the city’s oldest known surviving public structure.

Exhibit on Cagayan de Oro’s early history

In the late 1970s, the National Waterworks and Sewerage Authority (NAWASA) took over the water system and stopped using the tower and it was abandoned.

Exhibit on Spanish Period

Between 1994 to 2000, it was used as a temporary office of Barangay 1 and, in 2001, it was used as a makeshift darkroom by photographers from the Golden Friendship Photographers Association, Inc. (GoFPAI).

Spiral stairs leading to second floor

On December 1, 2008, then City Mayor Constantino Jarula had the tank renovated and turned into a city museum.

Exhibit on Cagayan de Oro during the American Period

The museum houses old photographs of the city’s significant events and personalities; fascinating exhibits that trace the city’s evolution, from its early indigenous roots to its contemporary developments; as well as a diverse collection of some archaeological finds.

Bamboo spikes used by guerillas to trap and maim enemy targets

Its well-curated displays provide insights into the indigenous cultures, colonial influences, and the vibrant community life that defines Cagayan de Oro. The floors are accessed via spiral staircases.

Rayadillo uniform and sword

A Philippine bolo and a Japanese sword

At the Ramon and Rosario Chavez Gallery, at the first floor, JC first showed us the Higaunon Bancas0 (ritual table), a very important cultural artifact of the indigenous Higaunon community.

Third floor gallery

The Filomeno M. Bautista Gallery, at the second floor, showcases the history of the city during the Philippine-American War (notably the battle around 1900) and World War II.

Third floor gallery

The third floor houses the museum’s newest exhibit (opened last November 21) which showcases the history and modernization of the city after World War II.

The motorela

A notable artifact here is the Parker 51 fountain pen used to sign Republic Act No. 521, the law that created the city.

An antique radio

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center: Gaston Park, Fernandez St., Brgy.1, 9000 Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental.  Mobile number: (0915) 881-0719.  E-mail: hccc.cdo@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8 AM to 5 PM.

Katunggan Mangrove Park (Mahinog, Camiguin)

Katunggan Mangrove Park

After breakfast at Paguia Cottages, we checked out and boarded our multicab for the 24.8-km. (40-min.) drive to Katunggan Mangrove Park.

L-R: the author, Grace, Jandy, Gelyn, Lorraine and Lourdes

It has a series of wooden boardwalks, suspended on stilts over the wetlands, that zigzag through the mangroves, leading to picnic huts (available to rent from pHP150 to 500 for a three-hour period) perched over the crystal-clear ocean. These huts also serve as great spots for jumping into the water.

Black mangroves (Avicennia germinans)

The myriad of roots of the black mangroves (Avicennia germinans) that reach up through the dense substrate of the high tidal pools. It differs from the red mangroves in that its roots, called pneumatophores, extend out horizontally, under the waterlogged sedimentary soil, and then vertically up towards the surface.

The wooden and bamboo boardwalk

When the tide is low, these roots can supply air to the underground root system, an adaptation that allows it to live in a habitat that the red mangrove can’t.

Pneumatophores

Popular among local families, the park has one entrance, and it is the only way to access its boardwalk and huts.

Picnic huts with access to the sea via wooden ladders

Typically busiest on weekends, the ideal time to visit the park for swimming is during high tide.  Aside from swimming, other activities you can do here are stand up paddle boarding and kayaking.

The park’s restaurant

Katunggan Mangrove Park: Brgy. Benoni, Mahinog, Camiguin. Open daily, 6 AM to 6 PM.  Admission: Php50/pax (Php30 for Mahinog residents).

Old Guiob Church (Catarman, Camiguin)

Old Guiob Church Ruins

After our merienda at The Beehive, we again boarded our multicab for the short 3.3-km. (10-min.) drive to the Church of St. Roche Ruins, our last destination.  Also called the Old Gui-ob Church (Cotta Batto), it is Camiguin’s version of Albay’s Cagsawa Ruins.

Check out “The Beehive” and “Cagsawa Church Ruins

Entrance to the ruins

The National Cultural Treasure plaque

This coral and stone-hewn church, built in 1623 as the parish of San Roque (St. Roche), was half buried by lava flows during the May 1, 1871 eruption of Mt. Hibok-Hibok that created the 838-meter high Vulcan Daan (locally called Tandang Bulkan), a volcanic fissure that spewed out lava and destroyed the town.

Check out “Old Guiob Church Ruins (2001)

All that remains are haunting ruins of the 400-year old church, the rectory and, at the back of the church, the base of the bell tower, beside which is a centuries-old camel tree (locally called doldol). Near the tower is a modern, solar-powered lighthouse.

During my first visit in 2001, a small chapel has been built within the ruins but it has now been removed.

On September 28, 2017, 16 years after our first visit, the church ruins, the nearby Sunken Cemetery and the Moro watchtower were declared as National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum of the Philippines.

Check out “Sunken Cemetery

The author (left) with his son Jandy

The moss-covered, roofless ruins, shaded by large trees,  is now a popular tourist attraction in the province and is a peaceful place to roam around.

Church of St. Roche Ruins: National Highway, Brgy.Bonbon, Catarman, Camiguin. Admission: Php50/pax.

How to Get There: The ruins are located 16 kilometers from Catarman and 20 kilometers from Mambajao proper.

Sto. Nino Cold Spring (Catarman, Camiguin)

Sto. Nino Cold Spring

From Tuasan Falls, we again boarded our multicab for the 10.3-km. (25-min.) drive to Sto. Nino Cold Spring, the largest cold water spring in the province.

Check out “Tuasan Falls”

The entrance to the resort

Also known as Kiyab Pool. It has 2 stone pools, the larger one measuring 25 m. by  40 m.  and its depth varies from one-half meter to 2 m..

The author with Grace and Jandy⁰

The other is a kiddie pool.  The resort also has picnic huts (rented for Php150), toilets, function hall and native stores for picnickers.  Even if it wasn’t a weekend,  the resort was still packed with picnickers during our visit.

Here, I swam its icy-cold, crystal-clear spring water, flowing from Mt. Mambajao, continuously sprouting from its sandy bottom, sharing the spring waters with some tiny fish.

Picnic huts

Toilets and changing rooms

Sto. Nino Cold Spring: Brgy. Mainit, Catarman, Camiguin.  Admission: PhP70/pax. Open Mondays and Thursdays, 11 AM to 5 PM, and Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 8 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: The spring is located 4 kms. north and uphill of Catarman town proper. From Mambajao, it is a 45-min. drive. From the main road, make a turn into 2.4-km. long dusty track to the spring.

Tuasan Falls (Catarman, Camiguin)

Tuasan Falls

After lunch and swimming at Bura Soda Water Pool, we gain boarded our multicab for the 6.5-m. (20-min.) drive to the beautiful 25-m. high Tuasan Falls. Though Jandy and I visited Camiguin in 2001, this would be our first visit to the falls.  The falls is just a few steps away from the entrance which has a huge parking lot, comfort and changing rooms and picnic tables.

Check out “Bura Soda Water Pool

L-R: Grace, the author and Jandy

Though much shorter than the more popular and more crowded Katibawasan Falls, it is potential source of mini-hydro-electric power due to its impressive water flow.

This single-drop waterfall is surrounded by lush greenery and has two natural pools, with crystal clear waters, at its base. 

Check out “Katibawasan Falls

L-R: Lourdes, Lorraine, the author, Grace, Jandy and Gelyn

Rock pile art at the falls

Just like Katibawasan Falls, the pool nearest to the base of the fall has been cordoned off with a rope due to the danger of falling rocks.

Resthouse with toilets and changing rooms

Tuasan Falls: Brgy. Mainit, Catarman. Admission: Php50/pax.  Open daily, 7 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: The fall is located some 6 kms. northwest of the town and 4 kms. from the ring road.

Bura Soda Water Pool (Catarman, Camiguin)

Bura Soda Water Pool – main pool

After our short visit and souvenir shopping at the Sunken Cemetery viewing area, we gain boarded our multicab for the 8-km. (15-min.) drive to the Bura Soda Water Pool, said to be the first of its kind in the country.  Located at the foot of the 1,250 m. high Mt. Hibok-Hibok, it was only developed in 2007 and it was not yet around when Jandy and I first visited Camiguin in 2001.

Pool entrance

The resort has two mid-size pools (separated by a concrete trellis), amidst lush vegetation, fed with cool, refreshing and clear, natural and unique effervescent soda water bubbling up from subterranean springs.  Natural soda water is known to reduce osteoporosis, decrease cardiovascular healt disease and lower blood pressure.  Another soda water spring can be found in Brgy. Agoho in Mambajao.

They even have drinking stations with taps where you can drink the soda water (commonly known as carbonated water, it is water where carbon dioxide, udder pressure, is dissolved). Its taste was comparable to high-quality, commercialized bottled spring water like Evian, slightly sweet but without the fizz and the acidity.

The second pool

Picnic huts

We rented a picnic table and had our lunch, ordering food from a nearby restaurant. The resort used to have a restaurant but it is now closed.  After lunch, we all went for a relaxing, cleansing and healing swim.

Male and female toilets and changing rooms

The now non-operational restaurant

Bura Soda Water Pool: Compol-NIA-Mainit Rd., Sitio Lumad, Brgy. Bura, Catarman. Admission: Php75/pax.  Open daily, 8 AM to 5 PM.

White Island (Mambajao, Camiguin)

White Island

Come early morning of our second day in Camiguin, we were picked up by Quin Acala, our local guide and, together, we all walked towards Brgy. Yumbing, at a boat station behind Paras Beach Resort.

Boats docked at the beach at Brgy. Yumbing

Jandy and Grace waiting at the boat station

Here, we boarded two small motorized bancas for 1.4-km. (0.87-mi.) boat ride to the horseshoe-shaped, 2.4-hectare White Island, Camiguin’s pride. Not visiting the island, on the northern shore of Mambajao, would be like not visiting Camiguin at all.

On our way…..

It was drizzling when we left the port and, during our journey, the waves were slightly rough but we reached the island after 20 mins. The rain stopped soon after and a rainbow soon appeared in the sky, soon to be followed by the early morning sun.

The drizzling stop and a rainbow appeared…….

Also called Medan or Medano Island, it is a small, uninhabited and treeless, shape-shifting sandbar with dazzling white, sugar-fine sand.

The island’s shape differs depending on the tides and the constantly shifting currents.  This would be our second visit for Jandy and I, having first done so during a visit in 2001.

Back then, there were makeshift snack stands allowed on the island, marring its beauty.  Today, save for day trippers, there were none.

Check out “White Island (2001)

L-R: Lourdes, Jandy, Grace, the author, Lorraine and Gelyn

The island is known for its postcard-perfect and Instagram-worthy views, with its backdrop of picturesque and majestic, 1,250 m. high Mt. Hibok-Hibok, an active stratovolcano, and the dormant, 838 m. high Mt. Vulcan Daan.

The 1,250 m. high, cloud-shrouded Mt. Hibok-Hibok

The 838-m. high, cloud-free Mt. Vulcan Daan (locally called Tandang Bulkan), a now dormant volcanic fissure, created by Mt. Hibok-Hibok, that spewed out lava and destroyed the town of Catraman on May 1, 1871.

You can swim its shallow, crystal clear waters, take Instagram-worthy shots, sunbathe or just relax along the beach.

White Island: Brgy. Agoho, 9100 Mambajao. The island shrinks substantially during high tide, so visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Ardent Hot Spring (Mambajao, Camiguin)

Ardent Hot Spring

After our visit to Katibawasan Falls, we again boarded our multicab for the 10.4-km. (25-min.) drive, via the Camiguin Circumferential Rd., to our last destination – Ardent Hot Spring.  Formerly under the Philippine Tourism Authority, it is now a government-owned and municipal government-run recreational and leisure facility since 1999. As always, there are souvenir shops and food stalls at the entrance.

Check out “Katibawasan Falls” and “Survivng Mt. Hibok-Hibok

The spring’s entrance

In the past, this therapeutic mineral spring, gushing forth from the bowels of Mt. Hibok-Hibok into three beautifully-designed natural stone swimming pools, with varying depths, were scaldingly hot with water temperature registering an average of 40°C and reaching as much as 50°C.  Picnickers even boil fresh eggs on the shallow portions.

Jandy. Grace and Lourdes on a bridge between two pools

It was certainly that way during our first visit on April 11, 2001 when we dipped our tired, aching muscles here after our daylong hike up and down the 1,250 m. high Mt. Hibok-Hibok.

A Min-waterfall

In September 2007, rehabilitation was started in anticipation for the influx of tourists attending the October Lanzones Festival.  During the COVID 19 pandemic, it was closed for over two years and only reopened to the public on August 19, 2022.

Picnic huts

However, during this recent visit, it was no longer that way.  We were disappointed as the three upper pools (with nets to keep the leaves, from the towering trees, off the pool) were cold and only the smaller, lower level pool was lukewarm. This is where we took a dip.

Definitely not hot and totally underwhelming.  It is said that a recent earthquake shifted the plates underneath and hot water no longer flows here naturally.  I suggest they rename the place as its waters are no longer hot.  The facilities also need upgrading.

Ardent Hot Springs: Sitio Esperanza, Brgy. Tagbo, 9100 Mambajao. Admission: Php50/pax. Open daily, 6 AM to 10 PM.  Tables and chair rental: Php150.

How to Get There: The springs is located 6 kms. (4.2 kms. rrom the main road) southwest of the town. To get there, take a 3.5-km. motorella ride from Mambajao to Brgy. Kuguita.  It is a 2.5-km. hike from Kuguita Church.