Ask the Dog Trainer: Dealing with Fear of Larger Dogs

by Carrie Boyko, CEB

Oliver (in the middle) Joins the Big Dogs
at the Park for a Group Greeting

Dear Michael,  

I have a toy poodle that is about 7 years old. She is prissy and fearful of bigger dogs. Our neighborhood is like dog central. Mostly larger dogs but a few small ones like Chihuahuas and a Boston Terrier, plus a few crosses or rescued mutts. When I walk Muffin she is always interested in visiting other small dogs. She’s not playful but she does sniff and sort of say hello in a doggy way. Sometimes she will even stop to see a medium-sized dog like one cocker that lives around the corner. But when we see a bigger dog she will snap and growl if we get too close. I have to avoid these dogs and their owners so that Muffin doesn’t get herself into trouble. I don’t want her to get hurt. Is there a way to help her understand when a larger dog is friendly and ok to say hello to? I don’t know how to help her with this. Any tips you have would be appreciated. 

Thank you, Janet

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 Dear Janet,

My heart really goes out to your little poodle. Life is complicated, so full of unknowns. I can really empathize. It’s hard to know who is safe and who is a threat. Why is he looking at me like that? Is she up to no good? Can I trust that one? While our brains are asking and processing all these questions, our emotions (think gut level) are sorting through memories and trying to fill in gaps where memories are lacking. We need to know how to handle every potential social interaction, and antisocial threat for that matter, and we sometimes only have seconds to figure it all out. It’s hard. And we are humans, supposedly the smartest animals on the planet.

Now scale all that down to your prissy little poodle (we really shouldn’t call her that, it’s not nice). But seriously, what’s a dog to think? She’s little. The big dogs, they’re really big (could be 5-10 time her size). And, who knows how the big dogs roll on any given day. One wrong choice can be fatal. For real. Better to be safe than sorry, right? Maybe that’s what she’s thinking.

But no one wants to live in fear. We can all agree on that. And you want to help, which is nice. And I want to help you, too. So, let’s sort this out.

Have your dog’s back. If you needed help with a tough situation, what would you want. An advocate maybe? Someone looking out for your best interests? A coach, perhaps? Exactly. Having your dog’s back includes two things. 1) Teaching her what do to at any given moment. I literally like to teach my dogs to look to me for instructions (like a friend asks for advice) when they are unsure of a situation. Don’t bite, don’t bark, check in with me. As you progress you can teach more advanced skills, like how to interact, sniff and otherwise greet dogs on a loose leash. The second part of having your dog’s back 2) Protect her from situations she’s not ready to handle yet. We humans are always in such a hurry. Hurry up prissy (seriously, no name calling) and get over it already. Well, let me tell you, that doesn’t work. If your dog looks unsure, steer her away from the big guys and gals. There’s no shame in that. Every growl-snap blow-up solidifies her fear and sets back your training considerably. Take your time. Work smart.

Teach her that she is safe. If you use reinforcement-based training to teach her how to handle herself when big dogs are around (look to you for instructions etc.), you can actually help her learn that she’s not in any real danger. A good qualified dog behavior consultant who understands desensitization and counter conditioning can help with this. All your dog needs to know is that you will protect her and that seeing big dogs means good things (not bad) are about to happen. Specifically, she’s going to get treats for following your simple instructions. Every encounter with a big dog comes with structure as well as your praise and treats. It’s subtle, but this teaches your dog that she’s safe (not in any real danger) when big dogs are around.

Support good choices. Let’s watch how this plays out. When you notice your dog making good behavior choices (especially when she sees big dogs), be there to support those choices. Praise her. Treat her. Smile and let her know she’s being a brave girl. Here are some good dog choices to be on the lookout for:

• Checking in with you on her own (not barking)
• Steering clear of the dog on her own (as you’ve shown her do to many times before)
• Approaching the other dog slowly on her own (don’t force this)
• Allowing the dog to sniff while she’s calm on a loose leash (your behavior coach can help you get to this level).

Oliver's Ears Tell the Story:
He's on High Alert Here

How do you measure success? At first, I look for lower intensity reactions from the dog, like less barking or choosing to walk away rather than snap. I also look for quicker recovery times from the dog, responding faster to your directions if she gets in past her comfort level and barks or snaps. In the long run, we aim for calm social interactions. There’s a lot we can do and there is help available to you. When all is said and done, though, it’s up to the dog. She may end up being more comfortable hanging with the little dogs. Maybe that’s just how she rolls.

© used with permission from Robyn Arouty Photography

Michael Baugh CDBC CPDT-KSA works with families with fearful and aggressive dogs in Houston, TX. He’s a regular contributor to allthingsdogblog.com, Chron.com and his own blog michaelbaugh.com

Michael's advice does not replace an actual consultation with a qualified trainer.

Dog Park Bonding Activities

by Carrie Boyko, CEB

© AllThingsDogBlog.com
Enjoy Meeting New Friends--Canine and Human

If you've spent much time on All Things Dog Blog, you probably know I'm a big lover of the dog park. We know them all in our area and enjoy a variety of Meetup groups and friendly pups and their people at all the local hangouts. There's nothing like a good run to get you and your dog feeling in tune with one another.

If dog parks are a new adventure for you, here are a few tips to make sure you're safe and have an enjoyable first experience:

© AllThingsDogBlog.com
Ready for Fetch ?

• Most importantly, do not take your dog to a dog park if he is not both dog and human friendly. Find another place to exercise and work at those skills when your dog is plentifully worked out.
• Even your well-socialized dog may have a bad day, so always go to the dog park with the mindset that you'll leave when and if things are not going well. And further, if you can determine this is not "your day" early, it's always better to leave before trouble breaks out. Your dog needs to view the dog park as a fun place if you're to have more positive experiences there in the future. Watch for troubling pups and behaviors and take your leave early.
• Newbies need to test the waters during slower times. By this I mean choose a time when most owners are not at the park. If your Fido has a calm first experience, he'll enter the park with a great attitude the next time you venture in.
• Watch your dog's back. Stay tuned in to his behavior, responses to other dogs, and the attitudes of those dogs toward yours. If you have an especially submissive or anxious dog, the dog park is probably not the best choice for him. He'll need a one-on-one socialization experience to build his confidence.
• If your pup is trained to play games such as Fetch or Frisbee or simply to HEEL alongside you, this is a great time to practice these skills when there are other distractions. Be prepared to lose a ball or a Frisbee, however. Some dogs may choose not to give it up, and you may opt not to argue with that Big Boy if he appears set on keeping your toy. Just sayin!
• Leave the treats at home, even if you're training. This is not the place to find out which dogs are food aggressive. It won't end well.
• Upon arrival and before you leave the dog park, make it a practice to work on your dog's "Come When Called" command. This one is all-important as it could easily save your dog's life one day. Don't leave that to chance. Practice often and praise vigorously!
• Try to end your visit on a high note, just after a particularly fun run or play session. When Fido has had his fill of exercise, friends and fun, call him to you, leash him up and praise him as he follows you out the gate. You'll enjoy some quiet time this afternoon, while he naps off his fun time with you. This is an awesome way to enjoy some Bowser Bonding.

We hope you enjoyed these tips for your Weekly Wag. Won't you share your own thoughts on dog park interactions and tips for great socialization of your dog. Have questions? Spill them here and I'll be happy to address those I am able to assist with. At the end of each quarter, a drawing occurs from the comments at our Weekly Wag posts. We hope you'll join in the conversation. Happy tails!

Join us each week for the Weekly Wag bonding series, held during the Saturday Pet Blogger Hop. The hop is hosted by Life with Dogs, Two Little Cavaliers, and Confessions of the Plume. You are welcome to link up here, or check any of their sites for their rules of participation. Happy hopping! 

Dog Behavior: Perception and Protectiveness

by Carrie Boyko, CEB

© AllThingsDogBlog.com
Tanner Socializes at the Dog Park

Think your dog is too much of a sweat heart to protect you in a pinch? I used to also, but think again. Fido lives with you, is fed by you in your home, and knows your property. He feels a sense of ownership and responsibility for the safety of you and your home that you may not see. Let's explore this....

My Golden Retriever, Tanner, is nearly 7 years old. He has been raised in social atmospheres such as dog parks and obedience classes, offering a variety of opportunities for him to be with other dogs, both on and off-leash. He has never displayed any protective behavior before. There have times when I wondered what Tanner's reaction would be if we were attacked. Thankfully we have never had to learn the answer to that question, until now.

Recently, I learned something new about Tanner's perception and under what circumstances he may be expected to protect me. While on our own property, Tanner was standing at the property line as an unknown dog walked past.  I was standing behind Tanner, which apparently gave him the perception that he was in charge and should take matters into his own paws. He did.

When we were charged by this large dog, even though the big boy was a young dog with playful energy, his collision was taken to be aggressive. Likely this was a perception based on the fact that I was standing behind Tanner, giving him the lead. His perception was that we were under attack and he immediately took offense to this blundering pup, letting the dog know that this was not acceptable behavior and he intended to keep me safe.

Was I ever surprised. Knowing the dog's owner, I wish I had given Tanner a signal of acceptance by speaking to the owner or walking out to greet them at the street. After all, Tanner did not know this dog and we were standing on our property, something that dogs tend to instinctively understand--territories. The sudden pummeling was too much for Tanner to consider and he was not taking any chances.

I've had time to talk with a trainer, reflect on this experience, and revisited my ever-present focus on socialization. That aside, I have also contemplated our neighborhood bear's surprise appearances that have been a problem for residents of the area. I've decided I'm okay with Tanner thinking he needs to look out for me when I don't give the signal that an oncoming social opportunity is a good one. We're a team, and I need to remember to do my part in watching his back, just as he did mine.

I'd love to hear your stories along this line. Has your friendly dog ever been surprised by an overly-energetic approach that he perceived was an attack on you both? Share if you will. We can all learn from one another. Understanding our dog's perceptions is part and parcel to bonding with him. I'm embracing this concept. Won't you join me?

Each week at the Weekly Wag we offer activities or information for enhancing the bond you share with your dog. Your participation by commenting is more than welcome.

Join us each week for the Weekly Wag bonding series, held during the Saturday Pet Blogger Hop. The hop is hosted by Life with Dogs, Two Little Cavaliers, and Confessions of the Plume. You are welcome to link up here, or check any of their sites for their rules of participation. Happy hopping! 

Identifying Your Dog's Social Availability

by Carrie Boyko, CEB

AllThingsDogBlog.com
Relaxed Mouth, Ears and Body

Just like you and me dogs have differing needs of social interaction, both with humans and with their fellow canines. Our 'Ask the Dog Trainer' columnist, Michael Baugh, and I have had a number of inquiries about various aspects of the social lives of our dogs lately. Not all of these emails make their way to the blog, but today I'd like to share some thoughts on how I see the state of socialization of our Fido family members these days. Much of this is taken from the dozens and dozens of letters I get from you. Your questions and comments are very telling with regard to the big picture. So here goes...

One of the biggest underlying problems I see with the anti-dog folks is a basic lack of understanding of dogs' body language. My diminutive little Papillon, Oliver, is the most affectionate and sweet little boy ever. Yet I frequently receive questions like "Does he bite?", "Is he friendly?" (Said while his tail is wagging at the speed of light!) and "Is he a nipper?"

I'm no expert, so I'm not here to tell you a lot about how to read my dog, or any other. However there are a few things that go across breeds in general that are good for everyone to know when determining if a dog's behavior is generally safe and friendly:

• Tail position: A horizontal, wagging tail is a common sign of friendliness. Vertical tail positions, whether pointing up or down, do not necessarily reflect friendliness or aggression, but can be seen associated with a variety of social issues. Approaching such a dog may not be a good idea.
• Ear position: When both the ears and the tail are pointed upward, paired with a forward leaning stance, a dog is on high alert. You can't ask him why, so be safe and keep your distance while avoiding eye contact. A friendly, relaxed dog will rarely display these body language signs in conjunction.
• Barking: Barking can only be assessed in terms of its association with aggression when visibly paired with other body language signs that indicate aggression. Barking alone does not mean a dog will bite. It is merely a form of communication. 
• Mouth/lips/eyes:  An open, relaxed mouth and jaw as you see in Oliver's photo above is generally a reflection of the same attitude toward those he is looking at. Conversely, a tightly-closed mouth, fixed eyes, and particularly curled lips can be a sign that you should keep your distance.

Tonight when Oliver accompanied me to a outdoor cafe the server showed his comfort with Toy dogs (he owns two himself) by reaching forward to offer Oliver some affection. Some dogs do not appreciate a hand coming toward their face; however Oliver sees this as a social opportunity and was eager to receive the attention. When doing this, always ask first and rub gently UNDER the chin or on the neck, not at the back of the head where the dog cannot see your hand. While Oliver would trust you entirely, another dog of any size may take offense at this human assertion. 

When allowing your dog to socialize with other humans, make sure you've got his back. Let interested greeters know how best to approach your pup, helping Fido learn to receive friendly human greetings with ease. As his owner, your dog will gain social skills with humans faster if you assist by offering tips to those who want to get acquainted. More experiences of a positive nature will equate to better socialization and acceptance of an occasional human faux pas. Often we need the training and support as much as the dogs.

Just as all Pit Bulls are not mean, all little dogs are not nippers and all Retrievers are not water lovers. Protect yourself and younger loved ones by learning more about dog body language and don't ever make assumptions based on breed or size. This will inevitably get you into trouble. Questions? AllThingsDogBlog@gmail.com

Join us each week for the Weekly Wag bonding series, held during the Saturday Pet Blogger Hop. The hop is hosted by Life with Dogs, Two Little Cavaliers, and Confessions of the Plume. You are welcome to link up here, or check any of their sites for their rules of participation. Happy hopping! 

Ask the Dog Trainer: Give Me Space (or Else)

by Michael Baugh, CDBC, CPDT-KSA

© M. Baugh
Senior Juno

Hi,  I am fortunate that I live within 200 yards from a wood and when I take my Springer Spaniel there she is happy to race around chasing squirrels and sniff around looking for game birds. One thing she hates is when some dog owners allow their dogs to race up to her and she will see them off and be aggressive to them. She is a rescue dog and does not like to play, just enjoys doing her own thing. When other dogs are under control and calm she is fine. 

Yesterday an owner let her dog off the lead and it raced straight to where my dog was around 30 yards away in the stream; she was aggressive once more and the owner blamed her and said my dog needed a muzzle and that her dog only wanted to play. I hate this expression as it seems some people think that it is their right to impose their over-excited dog on yours and are surprised that some dogs are not interested. I now feel that I can’t let her off her lead anymore but am angry as my last dog was one who was over-exuberant and if he succeeded in annoying others I apologized and did not expect others to tolerate it. Am I right?  Many thanks  Annie

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Dear Annie,

I sense your frustration and I definitely feel for you.  I can’t help but think of a lesson my Dad taught me when I was a kid.  He would hold out one hand and say, “here is the perfect world the way we wish it was.”  Then he’d hold out the other hand and smile, “and here’s the world the way it really is.”  I didn’t  like his little speech much then, and sometimes it still upsets me a bit.  Nevertheless, personal responsibility is really just that – personal.

We can’t really account for other people’s responsibilities when it comes to their dogs.  I wish we could.  So, let’s look at what we can work with.  There are good programs available for helping dogs who have issues with personal space around other dogs.  That’s what it sounds like you’re dealing with.  I don’t get the sense your dog is chasing after dogs she sees at a distance.  But when they come to her, she gets upset and even fights.  If that’s the case, you should be able to teach your dog to quickly come to you (even move behind you) when another dog runs toward you.  It’s a simple enough trick to teach and there are multiple benefits. 

1)  It’s task-oriented.  Teaching a dog a task in the face of perceived danger sometimes takes some of the emotional punch out of their reaction to the stimulus (the other dog). 

2)  It immediately puts you between your dog and the oncoming dog.  This adds a layer of safety for everyone involved.  It also gives you the chance to say “no” and hold out your hand like a stop sign to the interloper.  Oddly enough, most dogs respond to this even with strangers.

·    3)  It buys you time to calmly but audibly inform the other owner that your dog is a potential threat to their dog.  Nothing gets people moving quickly more than the thought of their dog being hurt.  If it were me I’d say “Sorry, my dog bites dogs who run up like that.  Can you help me?”  This is immediately disarming and a call for action.  I thank my dad for that one too.  People usually respond well when you ask for help.

Work with a rock solid reward-based dog trainer to get that move nailed down.  I’d also recommend you work on “leave it” and “stay.”  Why?  Because when the other person gets their dog leashed up, you’ll tell your dog to leave it and stay while you hand the person your trainer’s card.  “Thank you, we’ve really been working on this.  Here’s my trainer’s card.  She’s really good at teaching coming when called.”

Smile when you do this.  The other person won’t know she’s being put in her place until well after she’s home.  If the other person yells at you, let it go.  No one gets to ruin your day unless you let her.  (That one is my Dad too).

© M. Baugh
Dad

My dear sweet Juno died three years ago this month.  She had doggie friends, but not all dogs were her friends.  There is a reason “bitch” is an offensive slang word and there were times when Juno showed all of us why.  But I can tell you this with absolutely no elaboration to her storied memory.  When I said, “okay, let’s go,” Juno walked away from the fight and I stood between her and the other dog.  That was our deal.  It didn’t matter who started it or who was at fault.  When I said it was over – it was over.  Darned if that wasn’t the best trick I ever taught her.  Walk away.  Let it go.  It’s a trick I wish I were better at sometimes.

The truth is my dad is an awesome guy with lots of good sayings.  But, he’s a control freak too.  Okay, the truth is so am I.  I’m a dog trainer for goodness sake; we’re all about exacting control.  So maybe for us the real lesson is knowing what we can control and what we simply can’t (no, this is not a 12-step program).   There’s the world the way we want it to be, and the world we are able to actually create around us. 

The rest, it seems, just tends to run wild sometimes.

used with permission
 from Robyn Arouty Photography

Michael Baugh CDBC, CPDT-KSA teaches dog training in Houston and Katy, TX.  He specializes in behavior related to canine fear and aggression. You can learn more by "Liking" him on Facebook and following him on Twitter.

Read more of Michael's articles at his Archive Page, or check out his last few here:

• Two  Steps for Housetraining
• Dogs and Invisible Fences
• Moving and Movements
• Puppy Fears: Building Confidence