Choosing a VW roof rack for your vintage VW. This great priced reproduction wood slat foor racks can be the finishing touch for your vintage Beetle resto. These great looking racks were a very popular accessory in the 50's and 60's. The unique design of this rack allows it to be shipped by UPS - saving you money! Easily assembled in about 10 minutes with a minimum of tools, screw driver and wrench. Fits all Beetle sedans.
You can't be olde skool without an original thermador car cooler. Basically it's air-conditioning that uses no energy. Inside the big gray tube is a blanket with a string attached that hangs in the passenger window. You fill the tube up with water before you start driving, then every so often you pull the cord. It rotates the blanket inside and dips it in the water. Then air comes through the tube, it becomes cool by going through the wet blanket and finally goes into your car. Obviously it doesn't work in high humidity or when you're at a stoplight.
These are the VERY best quality EMPI style 5-spoke wheels available, a smooth finish and clean machine work. We have found a new supplier for the well-known EMPI style 5- and 8-spoke wheels. These Volkswagen wheels are closer to the original EMPI wheels made in the 60s.
The current American Eagle wheel made in the USA is a poor quality, mass-produced wheel with very old tooling, making for a low-quality finished product. We import these wheels from Europe and they are newly tooled and machined to the highest quality. These wheels do cost a little more, but they are worth every penny. Available in Silver, Black, Polished and Fully Chrome-Plated.
The current American Eagle wheel made in the USA is a poor quality, mass-produced wheel with very old tooling, making for a low-quality finished product. We import these wheels from Europe and they are newly tooled and machined to the highest quality. These wheels do cost a little more, but they are worth every penny. Available in Silver, Black, Polished and Fully Chrome-Plated.
We import this very high quality and beautiful BRM replica wheel from Europe. Our BRM Volkswagen wheels come with a beautiful clearcoat finish which will not allow the aluminum to tarnish. Do not use harsh chemical cleaners on these wheels as it can damage the clearcoat finish. The center cap and the wheel mounting bolt kits are sold separately. Center caps are sold separately. We offer two versions of center caps, both have the original SPEEDWELL-BRM logo. One is the flat style which fits most Beetle, Ghia, Type 3s. The other is our extra tall cap, which is designed for the Bus and very early Beetle, which have a very tall center bearing or axle hub which extends beyond the face of the wheel.
This wheel is available with polished spokes and black background (with a protective clearcoat) or fully chrome-plated. These Volkswagen wheels are made from an aluminum alloy. Pattern available is 5x205mm Early model Beetle 46-67, Ghia 56-66, Type-3 62-65, Bus 52-70.
The JGE Rader Wheel are the most beautiful ALL ALUMINUM reproduction EMPI Rader wheel available! This is a reproduction of the EMPI Rader wheel originally available in the sixties. This beautiful Volkswagen wheel is one piece monoblock aluminum with a ribbed spoke and a chrome centercap. The wheel is JWL and VIA approved. The Rader wheels are much lighter in weight and are a far better quality than any other similar reproduction on the market. They are available in four finishes: Fully Chromed-Plated, Polished Aluminum, Gunmetal Grey (with clearcoat) and Silver (with clearcoat). All wheels come equipped with a chrome center cap. Mounting hardware is sold separately.
EMPI license plate frames were originally produced back in the day when EMPI was big. Today most of these originals are hard to find and are expensive. To make sure it's an original, look at the back of the frame. The originals are two pieces welded together aftermarket frames are just one piece.
Pulling torsion bars is not recommended. It weakens your beam and can cause it to snap in two which is not fun while you are driving down the road. I would advise adjusters, dropped spindles or an adjustable beam to lower a Volkswagen Beetle.
Dropped/Lowered Spindles
Adjusters
Adjusters can be bought for around $15 for cheap ones or $50 for good quality Berg adjusters. These are then welded onto your beam fairly cheaply...around $30-$50 for a mechanic to do it. They allow your beam to be adjusted up to 4" for higher or lower riding height. The only offset is that they make your ride VERY bumpy. You will feel every little pebble that you drive over and I am not exaggerating. But that's a small price to pay for a slammin ride, right? They are available in both Link Pin (49-65) and Ball Joint (66-77).
Adjustable Front Beam
Adjustable beams are around $130-$160 and they allow you to lower your Volkswagen Beetle up to 5.5 inches with stock shocks, and up to 6.5 inches with short shocks. Adjustable beams still ride rough, but if you have the dropped spindles too it won't be that bad. I would also recommend getting caster shims and longer beam bolts if you go down real low. They are available in Link Pin (49-65) and Ball Joint (66-77).
They also have 2" Narrowed Adjustable Beams if you go down real low and need extra clearance for wheel turning.
If you REALLY want to olde skool it, fill up some sand bags and throw em in your trunk. Bags of dog food, bricks, and bags of cement also work good. Your gas mileage will be horrible, but if you're on a budget it's an excellent idea. And anytime you want to go back to stock height, just take them out. I actually know people who do this, so don't blow this idea off!
As for the rear end being lowered, that is just a simple procedure that includes rotating the torsion bars. How far they are rotated determines how low you want to go. You can get this done at an auto shop for around $70-$90. or if you want to do it yourself don't rotate more than 2 splines, it would be too low and you would bottom out after going over every little rock in the road. This is all I know about the rear end, if you want more info please contact your nearest VW mechanic.
If you lower your Volkswagen beetle over 2.5" you will have to get smaller tires in the front. 165's are stock, most people go for 135's. If you lower the back, get some 145's for the rear. Expect your front tires to rub the fenders when you turn, this is normal. If you go way down you should probably also get your beam narrowed so you'll be able to turn the front wheels. Again, I'm not sure of the procedure so contact your VW mechanic.
How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot
book review January 01, 1997I remember the day I received "How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot" by John Muir (and yes, it really is spelled "compleat!"). I was 16 years old and browsing around the local BAP in the books section while my dad was talking with the salesman about getting a new long block engine for my 70 beetle. Initially I was attracted to the cartoon on the cover, so I picked it up and started flipping through it. I quickly realized this was my kind of book... because it was aimed at the complete idiot! The cartoon drawings throughout the book were eye-catching and I loved the author's sarcastic undertone and snide jokes throughout.
The book starts off with detailed explainations of how an air-cooled Volkswagen engine works, complete with diagrams and illustrations. This is intended for people who know absolutely nothing about cars or Volkswagens. It is very straight-forward and easy to grasp. The next part was general maintanence procedures to do every so often on your air-cooled VW, don't worry, the author tells you exactly when to do them to keep your VW humming along. The book then goes on explaining how to fix your VW if it breaks. What to do if the engine doesn't start, if the brakes don't work, if the red light goes on, if the green light goes on, even how to overhaul the engine. The drawings were easy to follow and everything is laid out in layman's terms, none of that techy mechanic gibberish.
There are even fun sections to read, like the history of the air-cooled Volkswagen, what changes were made throughout the years, even engine codes for each model! This is just a fun book to read from beginning to end, it's that entertaining!
The only downside I see is for serious mechanics who wish to really delve into their VW and do customization work or modifications, this book doesn't do that. But if you are just a simpleton who wants to learn how air-cooled Volkswagens run and do simple procedures, this book is for you! Be sure to buy two copies, one for your garage while you are working on your VW, and one to keep nice and clean on your bookshelf. You'll be glad you did!
Now it's 15 years later and I still love this book! If I had to have only one repair manual "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" by John Muir would be it!