Re: [nafex] Ancient Apple Varieties

[Ginda Fisher <ginda@concentric.net>]

I didn't mean to suggest you import scions from the US, I just thought
you might find it easier to find someone in Canada with a tree who might
spare some scions than someone selling a finished plant.  That's
certainly been my experience looking for non-standard cultivars in the
US.

Ginda

Tom Olenio wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would you graft scions that cost $55 (for just 2) with less than novice skills?  You
> are braver than me!  8^)
> 
> Actually, the scions are free, but you are limited to 2, the import permit costs the
> $55.
> 
> I have dug an apple seedling, that has volunteered itself from a standard tree (snow
> apple), and plan to do a simple graft next spring.  As the seedling has two whips, I
> get two shots at doing it right.  So far, my only successful graft was a cleft graft,
> and it is doing GREAT!  That cleft graft has 3-4 feet of growth this season!
> 
> My planfor the seedling whip is to graft a scion from an Improved Snow, from the same
> orchard.  The parent tree of the scion dates back to 1918, the seedlings rootsock is
> just as old, but the tree portion has been gone 10 years, the rootsock surviving on
> lots of small volunteers, but they are getting far and few between lately.
> 
> I'll perfect my skills on the free stuff, before I dare attempt a $55 graft.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> Ginda Fisher wrote:
> 
> > Tom,
> >
> > By all means, try to find a Canadian source, but don't rule out
> > home-grafting.  I tried it this spring and was surprised how easy it
> > was.  Well, actually, it took me a long time--what surprised me was my
> > very high success rate.  I gather apples are particularly easy to
> > graft.  I did all of my grafting early in the spring, with my last
> > grafts done as the leaf buds were just opening up.  I tried lots of
> > methods, in the hopes something would work, and here is what I learned:
> >
> > Basically, you need 4 things to work:
> >
> > 1)  Cut the stock and the scion so they fit together snugly.  Cutting
> > each one quite flat is the easiest way to do this.  It's best to handle
> > the cut surfaces and nearby tissue as little as possible, but I did a
> > bit of whittling with no problem.  I was careful not to touch the cut
> > surfaces.
> >
> > 2)  Mechanically bind the two cut ends together, putting at least part
> > of the cambium (the layer between the wood and the bark) as close
> > together as possible.  It is best to match it over as much length as you
> > can, but one good join is better than a lot of near misses.  If both
> > sticks (the stock and the scion) are young, it is easiest to just match
> > the bark on one side.  Different people find different methods easier in
> > attaching the pieces.  I liked rubber strips (cut open fat rubber
> > bands), because they worked even on damp sticks, and I was comfortable
> > with them.  Ed Fackler suggests masking tape.  Some people find cut up
> > plastic produce bags work well enough, and I met a man who swears by
> > raffia.
> >
> > 3)  Protect the wound from drying out.  I got my best results with
> > grafting compound, but it's expensive and a pain to work with (and clean
> > off you hands).  Both masking tape and the produce bags provide adequate
> > protection by themselves.  Every single graft that I bound with rubber
> > bands and then covered with masking tape eventually took, even though
> > the masking tape didn't stick very well to my damp trees.  (They
> > sprouted a little later, and grew a little less than the ones with
> > grafting compound, but all look fine today.)
> >
> > 4)  Take all the stuff off before it girdles your graft.  This should be
> > done later, rather than earlier, unless you see signs of girdling.  New
> > grafts are mechanically weak, and can use the added protection.  This
> > step was also where I decided the fabric "grafting tape" I bought from
> > Leonard's had been a mistake. It stuck too well to the bark, and took a
> > little bark off when I removed it.  I think those twigs will be okay,
> > but I don't like damaging them so late in the season.  I am finding the
> > roll of tape handy for dozens of odd jobs around the house, though, so I
> > guess it was an okay purchase.
> >
> > More experienced grafters recommend picking a warm day with overcast
> > weather.  I think the idea here is to minimize the time the branch sits
> > around drying out before growth kicks in.  I think I started too early,
> > and the weather was too cold.  Most of my grafts took a long time to
> > sprout, and I thought none of them had worked until a few actually
> > died.  Then, the contrast between the dry, shriveled twig, and the
> > dormant twigs was striking, and all the others eventually took.  To ones
> > that died were mostly ones where I had tried just rubber bands, with no
> > outer anti-dessicant.  Every one of these died--rubber bands do not
> > protect the graft from drying.  The other advice I've seen is to keep
> > all the cut ends shaded.  Direct sunlight may kill some of the cambium
> > cells.
> >
> > Best,
> > Ginda
> > Eastern Mass., zone 6
> >
> > Thomas Olenio wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > If you are in Canada it would be OK, but otherwise I need a permit which
> > > costs.
> > >
> > > The note I recieved in the mail today, with my permit request states that
> > > it will cost $55 for permit and inspection.  Even though the scions would
> > > be free, I then would need to by the right rootstock and have the scions custom
> > > grafted, as I would not risk the scions to my meager skills.
> > >
> > > Add that all up and it is too rich for my budget.  I admit, it is a very
> > > small budget to begin with.
> > >
> > > I am going to contact the person who handles the Canadian sources for
> > > NAFEX and see if he knows where to find some in Canada.  I have called a
> > > number of times during the day, but no answer so far.  I will try again
> > > in he evening or this weekend.
> > >
> > > ******
> > >
> > > Just finished warapping the trunk and major limbs of an adult, dwarf
> > > apple tree tree we moved a couple of weeks ago.  According to one source,
> > > when moving an adult tree in the fall, you should wrap the trunk to
> > > minimize winter moisture loss.
> > >
> > > I went overboard of course and sprayed it with lime/sulphur and vlock oil
> > > at dormant levels (tree had already  dropped all its leaves).  Then hit it
> > > with anti-desicant spray, when that dried, cut feed bags (tri-ply bags,
> > > with plastic as one ply) into narrow strips wrapping the trunk, finally
> > > putting on hard plastic rodent protection, and mulched the tree.
> > >
> > > Overkill even for me.  Maybe it will make it.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Tom
> > >
> > > --
> > > Thomas Olenio
> > > Ontario, Hardiness Zone 6a
> > >
> > > On Fri, 20 Oct 2000 kuon@onlinemac.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well, I could certainly send you scionwood from our trees at the
> > > > appropriate time, if that becomes the easiest option and international
> > > > rules allow.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> 
> --
> Thomas Olenio
> Ontario, Canada
> Hardiness Zone 6a
> 
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