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Re: [nafex] Is it just me or...



Richard, there's an easier way to invigorate those trees  -- no risk, little effort,
cheap:

Inarch with vigorous rootstocks.

About a foot out from the base of the tree, set half a dozen McIntosh or Delicious
trees on seedling roots (or plant seedling rootstocks directly).  By the time bark
is slipping next May, these should be well established.  When the bark is slipping,
perform inarch grafts (well illustrated in any good how-to grafting book).  Use a
product such as Tree-Kote to cover the surgery.

You'll see no increase in vigor the first year, but after that, hang on to your hat!

Jim Cummins
CUMMINS NURSERY
Geneva


Richard J. Ossolinski wrote:

> It ain't just you, Fluff.  Now, having said that, do I dare post the following?
> Query:
> I just received a question from a customer for whom I planted a 'backyard'
> orchard five or six years ago.  Back then he wanted all of the trees never to
> exceed twelve feet in height, so I selected appropriate rootstocks/varieties.
> Today he said that he'd like to get them up to about twenty feet, if possible.
> Having never fooled around in this regard with more than only a few of my own
> trees, I felt unqualified to give him advice until I got some feedback from
> any of you who might have had experience in this department.
> How high above the graft unions is it safe to mound
> soil (bury the trunks so as to encouraging rooting from above the graft unions)
> and how far from the trunks should the added soil radiate?  Are we risking
> 'smothering' the trees (i.e. burying the existing roots too deep) by such a
> maneuver?  Should (severe) pruning be included as part of this strategy?  The
> trees are
> on one level of a terraced slope, and we have the means to raise the level of the
> entire terrace to whatever height (above the graft unions) might be deemed
> appropriate and safe. Finally, and just as importantly, can we do this now, or
> would it be
> safer/wiser to wait until after the spring thaw?  The site is in coastal
> downeast (Winter
> Harbor) ME, zone 5, and of all the trees are healthy and bearing.  Most of the
> apples are
> on M7 and the stone fruits on St. Julian A.;  and the spacing is such that
> full size
> trees would not be a problem.
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> Ozzie
> Richard J. Ossolinski
> Downeast Fruit Tree Services
> HC 35 Box 370
> Gouldsboro, ME 04607
> (207) 963-4082
>
> fluffy bunny wrote:
> >
> > Gang:
> >
> > Is it me or did Dr. Chiranjit Parmar just "spam" the entire list with the
> > post entitled "Information about non-commercial and lesser known
> > plants."?
> >
> > One of the many positive things would state about this particular forum
> > is the remarkable absence of commercial or fee  based service offerings.
> >   We all know the Vorbecks have Applesource, Ed Fackler has Rocky Meadow,
> > Lon has his service and Nursery, Ozzie has his and so on and so on.
> > Based on the private placed solicitations I have received I would guess
> > that at least 200 Nafex members have commercial enterprises scaling from
> > hobbyist status to full time avocation, and yet to the best of my
> > knowledge all of them has shown restraint and not used this forum as a
> > advertising medium.
> >
> > I would strongly suggest considering the ramifications of this.   I am on
> > many lists, and the majority are plagued by commercial advertisements.
> > I would hate to see this happen in this forum.
> >
> > I hope the list administrator will consider my words.   And if he elects
> > to continue commercial ads on the list, sees fit to submit to the board
> > the prospect of collecting a nominal advertising fee.
> >
> > Lastly I did not intend to illustrate Mr. Parmar's actions as
> > particularity offensive.   I am using him as a mere example of something
> > I am greatly concerned with(after seeing several other forums go down
> > hill).
> >
> > Very truly yours in growing all sorts of things to crunch and munch,
> >
> >                                                        Kevin(the fluffy
> > bunny)Mathews
>




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