One day last week I decided I hated most of my clothes. I was sick of trying to fit my ever expanding waistline (sad face) into dresses and skirts that refused to co operate. So over half of my wardrobe went in a charity collection bag...well, more than one actually! I have only kept clothes that I really love, and my new sewing resolution is to sew things I really want to wear, and to satisfy my urge to sew random clothes I will sew with someone in mind and spread the joy.

With that in mind, I cut out this dress last week, using my Nora, Nell and Nancy designs, this is Nell...although I sometimes forget that and call her Nora! She is made with vintage wool suiting...a lucky charity shop find . Navy blue pin stripe which you can't really see in the photos. The yoke is cut on the bias and the neckline is bound with self cut binding.

I absolutely love it! Feels great on, isn't too formal, but not too casual either. I really do need to ressurect this pattern and get it published, I know I've been saying that for about 18 months now, but I feel like it just needs a bit more tinkering before it's really ready.

My friend found this fabulous vintage housecoat a few months ago, and knowing how much I would love it, she sent it to me. Sadly it wouldn't fit over my ample boobage and so hung on a hanger for a while, while I pondered what to do with it. I felt kinda guilty hacking into it, not something I usually worry about, but it was a gift...




After a few months I summoned up the courage to have a go at making it wearable, so I popped it on my dress form and began the hacking...

 I cut the neckline deeper...

 And the armholes, taking about 3ocms off the length too..


Slitting the dress up the centre back and using the fabric taken from the length added in a shaped panel.



The rest of the fabric taken from the length was made into bias binding to finish the neckline and armholes. There was still some scrap which I used to make fabric roses.




I even made one into a hair slide.



I didn't waste a single scrap, this was all that was left to throw away.



And the final tunic? I love it!

I had a hankering for dungarees, much to the amusement of a couple of my friends! I'm 47, I'm curvy (overweight) and I'm short, with short legs! Undeterred by these facts I went ahead and made myself a pair anyway, albeit rather half heartedly. I was convinced I would make them up, hate them and then having satisfied my desire for something I would hate that would be that!



Living up to my name "Lazy Seamstress", I threw these together without even looking at the instructions. (The pattern is WW11 Homefront 1940's Overalls by Wearing History, kindly loaned to me by my lovely friend Nim.)

I popped a zip in the side instead of button fastenings, and I added the pockets last as an afterthought...not terribly neatly!


I love them!! I really do, I might not be slim or young or tall, but these dungarees make me very happy...or they will when I have unpicked the pockets and put them on more neatly (and in the right position!). I'm also going to remove the bias binding used to face the bib edge with a denim facing instead, and taken in the back darts a little....
... will I learn my lesson? Probably not!!!





Photos taken at Lady Mabel's Wood in Wigan where our youngest daughter has an acre of woodland dedicated to her.



                          Florence Violet Wood 22nd July 2009, Too briefly in our arms....

Tuesday was the day of my yearly mammogram so Woody had the day off to take me to the hospital. This year's appointment was in the morning, so we went for lunch in Stockport's Old Town afterwards, and did a little bit of vintage shopping at the same time.
Stockport is well known for it's Vintage Village  and over the past few years a few vintage shops have also sprung up around the market place.
I found this piece of vintage fabric in one of the shops for £5, probably a bit more than I'd usually pay in a charity shop, but still reasonable, and so bright and cheery I couldn't really resist!
It is a home dec fabric, the kind I think we had bathroom curtains made from when I was young. Of course it's intended purpose never bothers me, I knew I wanted a simple A line skirt in it. The Delphine skirt by Tilly Walnes is a fab A line pattern, a nice high waist and the kind of exagerated A line I love. I do think that this is my current favourite A line pattern, taken over from my own draft!
I'm calling it my Crystal Tips skirt because the bright colours remind me of a childhood cartoon Crystal Tips and Alistair.

Last week I was a parent helper on Sid's year 6 school trip to the air raid shelters in Stockport. I have been wanting to help out on this school trip for several years, but always had a small child or two at home to take care of. This year I didn't and jumped with joy at the opportunity to help out. I do love local history, but mostly I just really wanted to dress up!

I had a Butterick 1777 in my pattern stash, and on my trip to Immanuels a few weeks ago I had bought the perfect fabric. The pattern was too small for me, so needed a fair bit of alteration, but otherwise went together easily. I'm not at all convinced it suits me, I'm not really an ideal 1940's shape sadly. I love the 1940's silhouette, but it doesn't love me!


I had rather a dilemma over my hair, my current pixie cut isn't very 1940's at all, I thought I might make a hat, but couldn't quite see how I would get a 40's style to stay on my head, and made this fascinator instead.


I very nearly didn't wear it, it's not particularly authentic, but I did make it from scraps so it fits in the "make do and mend" category at least.


I finished the outfit off with natural tights forgoing natural seamed stockings or gravy browning legs because I didn't want to be worrying about suspender belts and I didn't want to be cold. My plaid jacket from Pepperberry went well, as did my Clarks brogues and my knitting basket.
All together I think I managed a 1940's ish look....except for when I foolishly walked forwards while looking backwards and ended up tripping in my heels on some uneven pavement, crashing to the floor crushing my basket.....although I didn't ladder my tights!

PS, I promise Sid isn't as unhappy as he looks in the first photo. He just doesn't quite understand photos. He had a lovely day!

I sew a lot, a heck of a lot and for lots of reasons;

• I love clothes, I don't often like clothes available on the high street and if I do I can't afford them or they don't fit. 
• I have a compulsion to create and make, sewing is my preferred method.
• Sewing eases my heart and my soul. I can't explain it, but something about the process brings peace.
• It's my job! I love designing patterns, and I love teaching at Ministry of Craft or one to one classes in my home.

Although I sew lots, not everything works out. I rarely am 100% satisfied with anything I make, I am always striving for a better finish, but sometimes things just really don't work, like this skirt.
The beautiful fabric was picked for me by my fabric dealer  friend, Mary. She knows my taste so well and often picks things she knows I'll love.

 
This fabric was calling out to be made into a full gathered dirndl skirt, and I love it so much, but sadly it doesn't love me! I wore it to work the other day feeling fabulous with my swishy skirt taking up two seats on the train, but then I saw photos of me teaching and the vision in my mind was shattered into a million pieces. I looked fat and frumpy...I may have cried!(And vowed to diet...though that was quickly forgotten! )
I tried to convince myself that it looked horrible because it was actually a little too loose around the waist, so I altered it and wore it again for these photos, but it doesn't look much better. I think this skirt might be destined to hang in the wardrobe looking pretty, and I hate when that happens.

Sometimes I sew when I'm sad. Summer is not easy here, too many ghosts and memories, so that's when I sew to distract myself. Yesterday I calmed my sad heart by hiding in my shed studio and stitching up a quick cotton dress.
I used my favourite vintage Maudella Pattern, but not having enough fabric for sleeves decided to omit them.
The resulting dress is far from my best work, I could list everything that is wrong with it, but it's too depressing. Suffice to say it's not great in lots of ways.
Despite that I wore it today.


I had to re draw the armscye, but looking at these photos I might have been better to re draw the neckline too.


Not being brave enough to bare my middle aged arms in public I wore a cropped cardigan over the dress to go out today, and if I wear this dress again in cooler weather I will probably put a long sleeved t shirt underneath.


Not the most inspiring post on the blog eh? Apologies, it's just that sometimes that is how it goes, and you know what? It is ok.

There is an acre of woodland in Wigan that is dedicated to our youngest daughter Florence, we always take a walk there on her birthday, and as often as we can throughout the year. While we were there yesterday India took some photos of me in my latest creation, another self drafted summer dress.
The weather was showery, though not cold. India and I found a lovely clearing in the wood to take photos, tiptoeing carefully in peep toe sandals ( I wore wellies for the rest of our walk! ) through the long wet grass I spotted the cutest little field mouse! He was just there at my feet, we both looked at each other with mild surprise, I said "Hello little mouse", and he scurried away before I could take a photo. He really was the sweetest little creature, and it made my day to have seen him.



The dress is made from some vintage curtain fabric I found in the local charity shop for £3. I used the same self drafted princess seamed bodice as for this dress .
The skirt has a box pleat centre front and centre back.



I was chatting recently with a fellow seamstress about "quick and dirty" sewing, this is a very good example of that! Mostly I'm pretty happy with it, but in my rush to have a new frock for Florence's birthday I made a few too many boo boos with the neckline and managed to stretch it out quite horribly.
A bit of quick thinking and a strategically placed vintage brooch and I think I got away with it!

 

This bodice pattern still needs a little revising, I'm enjoying working on getting the fit just right, and maybe one of these tries I actually might!
Meanwhile the stretched neckline incident has given me an idea for an alternative asymetric neckline to try...this time on purpose!!

 

A few weeks ago I had an email inviting me to take part in a craft competition run by Hilary's Blinds. I was given a choice of four of the fab prints they have in their very extensive range, and I chose Rayna Apple. I was sent one square metre of fabric very promptly and began planning. (And double checking that I could use a co ordinating fabric alongside the Rayna Apple.)
So, with an idea of what I wanted to do I started work drafting a pattern. Initially I wanted to make a dress, using my co ordinating fabric as the bodice. So using my personal bodice block I drafted a scoop slightly gathered neck bodice with button front fastening...I was clearly feeling brave because button fronts on my boobs rarely works well!



I bound the neck line, sleeve edge and hem in self made bias binding, and included a little bow at the centre front.
Sometime during this process I decided what I actually wanted to make was a two piece dress. I had already cut out my skirt pieces, but pre washing had shrunk the fabric, so I added a deep 'hem' of the bodice fabric, and some pretty lace trim.
The skirt is fastened with a concealed side zip and the waist is cleanly finished with petersham. the pleats give fullness, and the belt loops are the finishing touch.







I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to work on something I might not have otherwise, I often use furnishing fabrics to make clothing as any of my regular readers will know, but to be given a piece of fabric to work with gave me a chance to play with new designs and ideas. Some I might explore further.





As a final flourish, and because I hate waste, I used the very last scraps of the Rayna Apple fabric to make a little shabby rose brooch too.

 

Thanks Hilary's Blinds! I had fun!

Woven Doris in Vintage rayon,bias neckband, short sleeves no cuffs.

I've made a few Weekend Doris dresses from woven fabrics recently, I love to see the different effects different fabrics have. There are however a few adjustments that have to be made to the pattern before making a woven Doris. The pattern is designed for stretch fabrics, so firstly I size up one size. I cut my neckband on the bias and cut it at the largest size, any excess can be trimmed when I attach it. For most people the dress will fit over the head without any adjustments here, but if you are not sure, the back can be cut in two pieces, with seam allowance added and an invisible zip inserted. That was what I did with my first woven Doris, but found I was popping her on over my head anyway.

Lightweight satin Doris, with rolled hems at neckedge, sleeves and dress hem.

The sleeves need a little extra adjustment:

1: Draw a straight line down the centre of the sleeve piece.



2: Cut along that line, leaving a hinge of paper at the top of the sleeve.



3: Open up the sleeve piece and work out how much extra room you will need in the sleeve. I find an extra 5-6 cms at the cuff edge is plenty, but measure your upper arm and add in what you need. Remember, using a woven fabric means you need more ease than with a stretch fabric. (Note if you have very large upper arms, you might be best to make the sleeve a two part sleeve, with a seam down the centre, add in the extra you need for your bicep, add a seam allowance, and any excess at the sleeve head can be taken care of with one large dart....I haven't tried this I should say, but it works in my head.)



4: Place tissue paper/pattern paper under your adjusted pattern piece and trace.

 



5: If necessary using your ruler or set square neaten up the cuff edge.



6: Transfer all pattern markings, and label your new sleeve piece.

7: Measure cuff edge and adjust cuff pattern piece as needed. (they should measure the same.)

Today, despite feeling really rather poorly I helped India make herself a woven Doris. I let her loose on my new sewing machine and with some of my best vintage fabric.