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George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 12: (search)
houses, gardens, convents, and churches,—altogether make it a kind of rival for Naples. But within there is little to justify this magnificent exhibition as you approach it; for, besides the extreme filthiness of the streets, there is little either curious, interesting, or beautiful in the buildings and architecture. . . . . The only building that has anything like a classical interest is the fine convent and church at Belem, an immense building or rather mass of buildings, erected about 1497, in a singular style, between Gothic and Arabic, by the famous Dom Manuel, to commemorate the successful accomplishment of the great voyage of Vasco de Gama. It was from this spot he went out, and it was here he landed again; and Camoens, therefore, has consecrated it in two stanzas that might have given immortality to a subject less interesting and worthy than this monument of the greatest of all the Portuguese achievements,—see Lusiad, IV. 87, and X. 12,—for Portugal has never produced so <