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This costume is made in dark blue woollen cloth and features a bodice that opens in front with a short bolero with revers, over a gathered blouse front in white silk. This blouse is finished at the neck with a pleated standing collar and around the waist, with a waistband of the cloth, caught in the side seam and with 2 buttons in front. The pattern of the stylish bolero jacket bodice with the new leg-of-mutton sleeve is given here. For the bodice cut two pieces for the back in lining and cloth, two of the front in lining only, two of the gathered blouse front in silk and two each of the waistcoat/jacket and revers. Take up the front darts in the lining and provide it with hooks and eyes; gather the blouse between the stars and baste it to the lining. Baste the bolero waistcoat/jacket fronts on the blouse fronts and join fronts to back. A belt of the cloth two inches and a quarter deep, with stitched edges, finished with a pointed end and two fancy buttons, is sewn into the side seams and covers the lower edge of the blouse fronts. The revers are sewn to the bolero fronts; all the cloth edges are stitched; the standing collar (pattern not given) is covered with a stock of the blouse silk, with shirred headings at the front. Cut out the sleeve linings and sleeves - two each of the under and upper sleeve linings and two each of the sleeves in cloth. Join the outer seam of the linings, fulling the elbows between the stars. Gather the sleeve between the double dots at the side edges, baste on the lining and join the inner seam of bothe sleeve and lining together; gather the top between the stars and when sewing in the sleeve, distribute the fulness so that most of it will come about the shoulder seam. Fix the place marked by star 'a' on the sleeve to point 'a' on the sleeve lining. The wrist is finished to outline a cuff. Sew the sleeves to the armholes. Draft:- Sleeve Lining (Upper and Under Sleeve) This pattern contains no seam allowances or facings. |
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