A Dress To Impress

A PARADE OF SARIS ON A TEMPLE IN KHAJURAHO

Of all things Indian, nothing is more obvious than the sari. Women all over India wear them at home, at work, at weddings, or even when they're out of their country. I've seen Indian women in frigid New York wearing saris beneath their coats or Indian expats living in humid Manila draped in midriff-showing saris. It impresses me how Indian women are mightily proud of wearing them no matter how other women in other parts of the world are attached to Western clothing.

Indian Food Trip

TANDOORI CHICKEN

I've been warned. It's either I get sick from eating carelessly or I get addicted to the food. Indian cuisine, just like the country itself, is so varied and so diverse. It's a cuisine defined by its many religions and its vast geography. Indian food can be very good but in my attempt to try vegetarian food on the train to Varanasi, I ended up taking a dose of Ciprofloxacin for dessert.

Holy Cows!

Where else on the planet can you see cows roaming freely on the streets but India? In this predominantly Hindu country, cows and bulls are so revered that it's illegal to hurt or worse, slaughter them. Offenders are even sent to jail.

New Delhi, India

INDIA GATE

Of all the big cities in India, it's the capital city of New Delhi that contains more attractions worth visiting, 3 of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites. They're spread out quite apart so I got into a car this morning, driven by a Nepalese. As expected, traffic caught up with us and the haze hang thickly in the air as we move south from my hotel at the Karol Bagh area. If there's a consolation, Delhi's streets at least aren't as full of cows as Jaipur, Agra or Varanasi.

Varanasi, India

Holy smoke!

We went back to the Ganges river at sunset, sailing again on a wooden boat to witness another Hindu ritual up close. Even before we reached Dasashwamedh Ghat, I could already hear over loudspeakers the pooja - or prayer - led by one of the priests. On five elevated square platforms underneath umbrellas with neon lights, 5 young Brahmin priests were getting ready for what must be one of the most soul-stirring spectacles on earth.

Varanasi, India

Frozen in prayer

They carefully descended down the ghats, into these ancient steps that has been a witness to a fever pitch of faith. Men, women and children pose, reflect, pray and offer floating candles, garlands of marigold or a handful of grain. Some are busy washing their clothes, some washing water containers. Sadhus - or holy men - meditate deeply looking towards a rising sun. One by one, they slowly dip themselves into the holy waters of the Ganges, performing their ablutions. These ancient rituals have stood for millennia, practiced every day in the hope of achieving moksha - the liberation of one's self from the cycle of death and rebirth.

To Varanasi By Train

THE SARNATH EXPRESS PASSING BY THE COUNTRYSIDE

A visit to India won't be complete if one doesn't travel on the long-distance train. Indian Railways, with 63,000 kms. of train routes and 6,800 train stations, go to almost anywhere in India. It's not a surprise then that most Indians travel by train. It's cheap, fast and fairly efficient.

Khajuraho, India

Three wide-eyed young Indian women, resplendent in their colorful saris, took one long look at these ancient sculptures and friezes and all I hear are muted shrieks. Could this be their first time to see these temples brimming with Kama Sutra acts? Between AD 900 and 1100, Khajuraho was the seat of power for the Chandela dynasty which built 85 temples. These were abandoned in the 15th century, ransacked by Muslim invaders, and not until 1838 did they resurface again after being rediscovered in the thick jungle by a British military officer. Today, only 25 of these temples remain scattered in an area about 8 square miles.

Orchha, India

Mukeesh has been with me for the last 5 days, driving me around in his Indica since my arrival in Delhi. He's been very patient, obliging, and opens the door for me as if I'm a Viceroy in the days of the British Raj. For spoiling me with such great service, I tipped him well as he bids me goodbye at the train station in Agra early this morning.

Agra, India

After last night's full moon viewing of the Taj Mahal, it's time to see it at sunrise. The Taj changes color during the course of the day but it's more captivating at sunrise and sunset. Mandakani Villas, where I'm staying, is just a short walk to the western entrance where cycle-rickshaw wallahs are waiting to bring visitors to the main gate.

Taj Mahal During Full Moon

Full moon view

We were escorted by vigilant police officers, one of whom was holding a huge flashlight. "Carrrefully sirrr!", the officer says as we were entering a partially darkened massive gateway leading to our ultimate destination. We only have 30 minutes to view it. Under the light of a glorious full moon, we all looked at the same direction, entranced, bewitched, and excited. There it is, the Taj Mahal.

Agra, India

Today is the Holi Festival, celebrated widely and wildly in the the country. India as a whole is a kaleidoscope of colors but this becomes very literal in this festive Hindu occasion where colored powder, colored water and lately, colored sprays from aerosol cans are thrown and sprayed at each other amidst blaring music, dancing and drinking. From homes to the streets, everyone's in a huge party mood.

Jaipur, India

 
Kya hal he? was the only Hindi greeting I know but at least that made my guide Vishnu give out that smile showing tea-stained teeth. It turns out this Delhi-educated bloke speaks Spanish and Italian as well. Which means I'm in good hands if his multilingual skill is anything to go by (he guides Europeans as well you see).

Jaipur, India

 

It's like we've not left the traffic madness of New Delhi as we arrive in Jaipur past 8 pm. Mukeesh,my driver, sheepishly admits this capital city of Rajasthan is seeing more traffic as we try to steer clear from the onslaught of rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles,Tata Nano cars, huge carts pushed by skinny men, people holding hands while crossing narrow streets, and the king of the road of them all, the venerated cow, idly wandering the streets foraging for food. Driving in India isn't for those with a history of road rage. 

India

I'm flying to India today. Unlike my Morocco trip last November, I'll be traveling in India alone. No accompanying friend or Intrepid Travel or Gap Adventure group this time. I must admit it's been a challenge planning this trip as India is such a huge country it's almost like going to another continent. Deciding on where to go took me some time. There's just so many areas to visit. I read guide books, browsed the internet, even got a dose of inspiration at the recent New York Times Travel Show. In the end, I decided on visiting parts of the north covering New Delhi -Jaipur -Fatehpur Sikri-Agra-Orchha-Khajuraho-Varanasi.

Why India? People I know immediately reacted with dread, as if I'm going to a war zone. "Remember the recent terrorist attacks in Mumbai?", one told me. Those who saw "Slumdog Millionaire" also cringed at the thought of in-your-face signs of poverty. Yes, India has its share of terror and poverty but these can happen anywhere. Visitors still go to New York even after 9/11 and they don't care if many New Yorkers live on Welfare.