France

Celebrating the incredible restoration of Notre Dame

As we were planning our trip to London, Jim suggested we should also go to Paris. We have been there many times, but never in winter. Plus we could take the train through the Chunnel, another first. So we added five nights in Paris onto our London itinerary. How bad could that be?

It sure helps if the February temperatures are in the 40s and 50s most of the time. And the crowds are a bit thinner than usual. And unlike our stay in London, we had virtually no people to see or engagements planned. I did, however, do a fair amount of restaurant research in advance, cuz, you know, you never want even a mediocre dining experience in this incredible food city.

We also enjoyed a splurgy stay at the great classic hotel Ritz on the Place Vendôme. Cesar Ritz opened this palatial hotel in 1898 to provide lodging suitable for royalty. It was the first hotel ever to include such luxuries as bathrooms, electricity, and telephones in every room. An extensive renovation from 2012 to 2016 restored it to its original glory.

Of course the highlight of this visit was a chance to once again tour Notre Dame, which was miraculously reopened less than six years after the devastating fire. I was astounded by the breadth of the restoration. It seemed like every tiny corner of this vast cathedral glittered like new, thanks to the armies of craftsmen in every field.

The interior of Notre Dame seemed almost shockingly “white” and bright. You are just not used to seeing medieval cathedrals without a layer of smoky grime on the walls.

Miraculously, the stained glass sustained minimal damage, so they sparkle as much as ever

Every side chapel seemed restored to perfection

A view through some grillwork across the altar

Cocktails at Bar Vendome at the hotel Ritz

The Place Vendôme

Paris is beautiful even in winter

More winter beauty

Weather was pleasant enough for an outdoor cafe stop on th Place des Vosges

I spend a lot of time researching on line to find restaurants that we might love. When we arrived at Parcelles, I immediately recognized it as a place my research led us to three years earlier!

Crocuses in the Tuileries! Spring is coming!

And yet these people haven’t taken down their Christmas decorations yet

The Luxembourg Garden is not as glorious in the winter, but still pretty amazing

A gorgeous sunrise on the Seine

Heading to dinner in the wonderful 7th arrondissement you get lots of great Eiffel Tower views

We went to hear Tchaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony at the church of Saint-Philippe-du-Roule. The setting was beautiful, and the music was impressive, despite some pretty terrible acoustics.

Fancy dead people at the Père Lachaise cemetery

A fun lunch at Tour d’Argent, a restaurant that claims to have opened in 1582

Irresistible temptations at breakfast at the Ritz

What a view from our room!

Our stunning beach, Anse des Flamands

Our French Caribbean adventure continued in the neighboring island of Saint Barth. This whole trip was really planned around our desire to stay at a hotel here called Cheval Blanc. We’ve stayed at two Cheval Blanc hotels previously — in Paris and in Saint-Tropez — and they are extraordinary places.

Our resort was connected by boardwalks through jungle

We had one dinner at a beautiful restaurant in a dazzling jungle setting

The Cheval Blanc hotels are owned by the French luxury brand juggernaut, LVMH. This is a splurgy place on a gorgeous beach called Anse des Flamands. It is staffed by armies of young, beautiful people, almost exclusively from France.

Saint Barth is a stunningly beautiful island. It’s also known as a playground for very wealthy people, which has its advantages and disadvantages. On the plus side that means there are some really nice resorts — and an endless supply of high quality restaurants to choose from. We ate very well here, but we actually tire easily of overly “fancy” restaurants with crazy prices.

The rich party crowd apparently also likes restaurants and clubs with a lot of noise. A couple we met in Saint-Martin told us about a couple restaurants we needed to go to, which apparently turn into pounding music venues as the evening goes on. That sounds like hell to us, so we carefully tried to stick to calmer choices.

I was kind of fascinated, if somewhat repulsed, by the people-watching in a place like this. You see parents with such over-privileged children that it’s hard to imagine these kids not being really messed up. And then you have the guys with trophy wives that they’ll eventually get bored with. And people coming out of designer boutiques loaded up with bags of flashy clothes. It’s fun to watch for a few days. But it makes us feel very, well, normal?

We loved the gorgeous beach here. And watching the scene. And five days was just enough. And now it’s nice to return to New York, and leave this beautiful shallowness behind.

The weather is mostly perfect. But most days deliver a brief rainfall, followed by a gorgeous rainbow.

Lunch in the main town of Gustavia, overlooking a harbor full of yachts and mega-yachts

…and the moment when the weather suddenly turns bad for a few minutes!

Our hotel is owned by the French luxury giant LVMH. So they had an evening reception to promote one of their fashion brands, Bulgari. People were trying on necklaces covered in diamonds at god-only-knows what kind of cost (Hundreds of thousands? Millions?). It was fun to witness, but we did not buy anything.

We had to share the resort boardwalks with lots of turtles

Enjoying yet another meal that’s “fancier” than what we normally prefer

One day we went out of our way to find a more modest place for lunch. It was OK, but we actually kind of missed the glamor of our resort!

Stopping for a pre-dinner drink right on the harbor in Gustavia

Breakfast overlooking Anse des Flamands

Mark on our fabulous beach

Last summer we spent nine weeks in France and apparently that’s not enough. For much of the fall we didn’t plan any travel, waiting first for Mark to have knee replacement surgery and then to figure out if he was going to do the second in quick succession. Once he decided to defer the second knee – maybe he won’t need it and we were seriously tired of not being able to plan travel – we started splurging on our planning. After a couple quick and short trips to the University of Michigan and the University of Minnesota, our first real adventure was off to St. Martin and St. Barts, neighboring islands in the French West Indies.

Our first stop for four nights was St. Martin. The island is a little odd in that since 1648 it’s been split between France and the Netherlands; about 60 percent of the land is French, but 60 percent of the population lives on Dutch side. Stranger still, the French side is part of the EU, while the Dutch side is not. (It turns out Sint Maarten, as it’s known in Dutch, is one of four constituent countries of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, along with the Netherlands, Aruba, and Curaçao. Who knew??) Thus on the Dutch side they primarily use the U.S. dollar while on the French side they use the Euro. Odd.

Beach chairs and umbrellas immediately outside our room. Very civilized.

Oh, and here’s a pretty cool trivia fact if this question ever comes up. Should anyone ask you if France shares a land border with the the Netherlands you will sound brilliant when you point out that they do here on St. Martin.

As usual, our beach vacations are just that: beach vacations. No one comes to these Caribbean islands for culture or adventure beyond maybe scuba diving. And the beach we were on – the Baie Longue, or Long Bay – was spectacular; for my money one of the greatest beaches I’ve ever been on. And the way it is laid out naturally, with a land barrier on one side and undeveloped land on the other it was for all practical purposes a private beach.

There’s always a little rain in the Caribbean but this time of year it’s distinctly manageable. And when it comes with a nice rainbow you really can’t complain.

As is typical for us about the only thing we have to research and plan once we get here is where to eat. One of the joys of coming to France, of course, is the great food. And for the most part we weren’t disappointed. We had dinner off-resort three times; one was really good, one was quite good, and one was good enough. The really good one was just across the “border” – it’s just an imaginary line, no customs or even need to slow down – into the Dutch side. A lovely little French restaurant in a little beach town that was fun.

The other two nights we went into Grand Case, the biggest town on the French side. A lively beach town that reminded us the kind of place we would have stayed 10 or 15 years ago. Some good food and a surprisingly good beach bar for a pre-dinner martini.

And so after a few perfect days on the beach it was off to St. Barts. We had booked a boat for the 45-minute commute and were really looking forward to it. It took almost as long to drive from our resort

A beautiful burrata appetizer at Le Pressoir in Grand Case

to the port where the boat was going to be but when we got there we learned the boat had been cancelled, some sort of mechanical problem.

Now our experience is that when an airline cancels a flight they work with you to find some alternative transportation. Not so this boat company. Nope, we’re not running. You can go to the French side of the island and see if there is anything at that port but we don’t have any information. Fortunately our taxi driver had hung around to see if we were going to need help and so he started driving us back to France. En route we go online and discovered that we could buy plane tickets for a little after noon, yet another example of the advantages of just being able to buy your way out of a challenging predicament. Now, the airport was at most 15 minutes from our hotel but between the drive to the port, the confusion about what to do there, and then the drive back – including a 20-minute delay while some massive yachts went through a draw bridge – we were almost two hours in the car. Frustrating!

Mark ready to board our little prop plane for the 10-minute flight to St. Barts

The one redeeming part of the whole fiasco is that the plane ride was pretty cool. There were six of us on this little prop plane and the entire time from boarding to landing was probably no more than 15 minutes, certainly not more than 20. They led us to the plane, we buckled in, the pilot taxied about 10 yards to the runway and off we went for the 10-minute flight to St. Barts. And the best part was the arrival there, where the plane flies pretty low over a hill and then does a steep dive down to the short runway. Definitely cool and given that there are hourly flights between the two islands the pilots do it often enough you can be pretty confident of surviving. Oh, and one last nice thing about the flight. They boarded 30 minutes early like most flights do, but boarding took only seconds. So they took off and we landed 10 or 15 minutes before we were supposed to take off!

Next stop St. Barts.

The view as you enter our hotel. The water really is that beautiful.

And sunset from our front porch

The water was warm, clear, and calm. And as you can see it wasn’t too crowded even in the middle of the day.

Mark is sometimes more artistic than I am

Sometimes way more artistic

A really wonderful shrimp and scallop dish at Bistro Caraibes

Mark at the Blue Martini bar. Normally European cocktails are at best barely adequate but these were really good. And just minutes after we got there it got surprisingly crowded. Nice to see a good business doing well!

Breakfast overlooking the sea on our last morning. A little meat, a little cheese, some smoked salmon, sparkling water – this is heaven.

And finally, a view of our room and beach. For three full days those second-to-last chairs on the left were our paradise.