DINNER BAGUETTES Recipe

How to make it

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• Note: For this recipe you will need an instant-read thermometer, a scale, a lame or a single edge razor blade, a rectangular pizza stone, and a spray bottle filled with water. We prefer SAF instant or Perfect Rise yeast, but other instant dry yeasts work as well. For the sponge, the ideal ambient temperature is 75 degrees; if it is cooler, fermentation will take longer. The altered rising times in this version help get the baguettes on the table at the same time as dinner. The related recipe will yield baguettes for breakfast. In either case, begin the recipe the day before you intend to serve the bread; the baguettes will emerge from the oven 20 to 24 hours after you start the sponge. Do not add flour while kneading or shaping the dough. The baguettes are best served within 2 hours after baking.
• 1. For the Sponge: Combine yeast, water, and flour in medium bowl and stir together with wooden spoon to form thick batter. Scrape down bowl with rubber spatula. Cover with plastic wrap and punch a couple of holes in plastic wrap with paring knife; let stand at room temperature. After 5 or 6 hours, sponge should be almost doubled in size and pitted with tiny bubbles. Refrigerate overnight, (12 to 14 hours).
• 2. For the Dough: To sponge, add yeast and all but 2 tablespoons water. Stir briskly with wooden spoon until water is incorporated, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and continue mixing with wooden spoon until a scrappy ball forms. Turn dough onto countertop and knead by hand, adding drops of water if necessary, until dry bits are absorbed into dough, about 2 minutes. Dough will feel dry and tough. Stretch dough into rough 8- by 6-inch rectangle, make indentations in dough with fingertips, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon remaining water (see illustration 1 of "How a Baguette Comes Together" below), fold edges of dough up toward center to encase water, and pinch edges to seal. Knead dough lightly, about 30 seconds (dough will feel slippery as some water escapes but will become increasingly pliant as the water is absorbed). Begin crashing (see illustrations "Crashing the Dough" below) by flinging the dough vigorously against the countertop and kneading dough alternately until soft and supple and surface is almost powdery smooth, about 7 minutes. Stretch dough again into rough 8- by 6-inch rectangle and make indentations with fingertips; sprinkle dough with salt and remaining tablespoon water. Repeat folding and sealing edges and crashing and kneading until dough is once again soft and supple and surface is almost powdery smooth, about 7 minutes. If dough still feels tough and nonpliant, knead in 2 additional teaspoons water.
• 3. Test dough to determine if adequately kneaded by performing windowpane test (well-kneaded dough can be stretched into a nearly translucent membrane, see illustration "Achieving Windowpane" below). If dough tears before stretching thin, knead 5 minutes longer and test again. Gather dough into ball, place in large bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand 30 minutes, then remove dough from bowl and knead gently to deflate, about 10 seconds; gather into ball, return to bowl, and replace plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 ½ hours.
• 4. Decompress dough by gently pushing a fist in center of dough toward bottom of bowl (see illustration 2 of "How a Baguette Comes Together" below); turn dough onto work surface. With dough scraper, divide dough into two 12-ounce pieces. Working one at a time, with second piece covered with plastic wrap on work surface, cup hands stiffly around dough and drag in short half-circular motions toward edge of counter (see illustration 3) until dough forms rough torpedo shape with taut rounded surface, about 6 ½ inches long. (As you drag the dough, its tackiness will pull on the work surface, causing the top to scroll down and to the back to create a smooth, taut surface.) Repeat with second piece of dough. Drape plastic wrap over dough on work surface; let rest to relax dough, 15 to 20 minutes.
• 5. Meanwhile, line an inverted rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Working one at a time, with second piece covered with plastic wrap, roll torpedo seam-side up and press indentation along length of dough with side of outstretched hand (see illustration 4). Working along length of dough, press thumb of one hand against dough while folding and rolling upper edge of dough down with other hand to enclose thumb (see illustration 5). Repeat folding and rolling 4 or 5 times until upper edge meets lower edge and creates seam (see illustration 6); press seam to seal. Dough will have formed cylinder about 12 inches long. Roll dough cylinder seam-side down; gently and evenly roll and stretch dough until it measures 15 inches long by 2 ½ inches wide (see illustration 7). Place seam-side down on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with second dough piece. Space shaped dough pieces about 6 inches apart on baking sheet. Drape clean dry kitchen towel over dough and slide baking sheet into large clean garbage bag; seal to close. Refrigerate until dough has risen slightly, 7 to 10 hours.
• 6. To Bake: Remove one oven rack from oven; adjust second oven rack to lowest position. Place pizza stone on rack in oven and heavy rimmed baking sheet on oven floor. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Remove baking sheet with baguettes from refrigerator and let baguettes stand covered at room temperature 45 minutes; remove plastic bag and towel to let surface of dough dry, then let stand 15 minutes longer. The dough should have risen to almost double in bulk and feel springy to the touch. Meanwhile, bring 1 cup water to simmer in small saucepan on stovetop.
• 7. With a lame or single-edge razor blade, make five ¼-inch deep diagonal slashes on each baguette (see illustration 8). Brush baguette with egg white and mist with water. Working quickly, slide parchment sheet with baguettes off baking sheet and onto hot pizza stone. Pour simmering water onto baking sheet on oven floor and quickly close oven door. Bake, rotating loaves front to back and side to side after 10 minutes, until deep golden brown and instant-read thermometer inserted into center of bread through bottom crust registers 205 to 210 degrees, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to wire rack; cool 30 minutes.
• 8. Timeline
• Begin: 12 noon to 4 p.m.
• Sponge: Rise at room temperature 5 to 6 hours; then refrigerate 12 to 14 hours.
• Dough: Rise at room temperature 30 minutes; deflate, then rise 1 1/2 hours longer.
• Shaped Dough: Rise in refrigerator 7 to 10 hours; let stand 1 hour at room temperature before baking.
• Bake: The following afternoon (from when you began).
• Note: Crashing the Dough
• 1. Really a form of kneading, crashing is a good way to incorporate additional water into the dough.
• 2. The dough is flung vigorously and repeatedly against the countertop.
• 3. A well-kneaded dough can be stretched into a nearly translucent membrane.
• Note: How a Baguette Comes Together
• 1. Add the remaining water.
• 2. Gently punch the dough down to eliminate the gas.
• 3. Round the dough with half-circular motions.
• 4. Use the side of your hand to form an indentation.
• 5. Roll the sealed upper edge over your thumb.
• 6. Repeat this process several times to form a seam.
• 7. Stretch and roll the dough into a baguette shape.
• 8. Slash it diagonally.