Once I learned that you can actually sew your own jeans at home, I've been a big fan. They've become one of my favorite things to sew. I find all of the topstitching completely satiating.

My history with jeans has been that I can never walk into a store and find jeans that are long enough.  I was wearing ankle grazing jeans before cropped length was fashionable. We referred to it as "Your pants are in the flood" back in the day. The long sizes aren't sold in brick and mortar locations. And after having to try on several pairs to get a decent fit, it was always a gamble when order that long length size online. And then there's the back. You either had smushed butt or gaping at the waistband in order to get a pair that actually fitted in the hips. I was a pro at adding darts to curve in the waistband.

In the last year, I've made 3 pairs of jeans. And every time I post, I get a several messages suggesting that I do a tutorial because I make it look easy. So, I figured it was time I share how I make sewing my own jeans at home work for me.

Other than selecting the correct size and making the appropriate alterations -- which varies on the fabric; I'm up to 4 pairs and they all have a unique fit... most people that struggle with making jeans, struggle with the topstitching. 

So, in this tutorial, you will get:

You can get it here:

Learn to Sew Your Own Jeans -- A Step-by-Step Video Tutorial

It doesn't matter if it's a hundred degrees in the shade, my mind is already on fall sewing. I'm starting off slow by creating "transitional" looks that can be worn even if the calendar says "Autumn", but the temperature says "hot AF"!

For my top, I picked McCall Pattern 7838. I fell in love with the sleeves on view A. They remind me of something by the designer Dice Kayek. They're a very modern, fresh and architectural twist on the puff sleeve.

My fabric is dupioni from my stash. I cut the size 14. I used the body from C & D, and the sleeves of A. I wanted to make sure that my shirt was "tuckable".

My pants are another version of Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans.

Even with these blazing temps, I'm excited about building a fall wardrobe and walking into the new season.

Here's a sew-along video for the shirt:

Closet Case Ginger Jeans and Trend Patterns Oversized Sleeve Top

The seams of jeans take on a lot of stress. And I've learned a new way of sewing them. And when I learn cool new tips and tricks, I always want to share them!

From this point on, I'll only be sewing my jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock plus Chain Stitch! This stitch is also called a 5-Thread Safety Stitch.

You can check out my latest tutorial at WeAllSew!

Jeans Sewn with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 

So, it looks as though I've found my new fall uniform: a bodysuit with jeans! 

I've never really been a t-shirt and jeans, kinda chick. So, something just as comfortable, but with much more pizzazz and flair with the added plus of not having to worry about coming untucked is a winner.

The bodysuit is Simplicity 8513, view A. My fabric is a 9 x 1 Rib Knit Black Solid from Mood Fabrics.com. It's 95% cotton and 5% spandex and it feels wonderful! 

I cut the size medium and I added an inch of length at the waist. I also lengthened the sleeves.

Just like with jumpsuits, I was never able to fit RTW bodysuits. They were never long enough. And before sewing, I was the queen of stacked bracelets and cuffs. They filled in the negative space that too short sleeves created. See how sewing has blessed my life!

The bodysuit has a facing that was supposed to just hang free. I didn't understand why that was there. It seems like you can get the same clean finish with binding. So I took the opportunity to take that facing and add 1" elastic to the bottom and just create a shelf bra. And another thing I did was to add two additional loops because I had a gigantic opening in the already deep plunging V. I also skipped making the tie. I used suede lacing I had in my stash. And here's a tip: I used a crochet hook to thread the lacing through the loops.

And lastly, I was concerned about the leg opening creating a panty line. Y'all have no idea how anal I am about VPL (visible panty line). I have a huge collection of seamless underwear. Like every single pair I own can be worn under ANYTHING! And that's the number 1 reason I haven't branched out to sew my own panties. So, what I did was not serge the edge of the leg. I added the elastic and used a long and wide stretch stitch (#9 on BERNINA 350 PE). And it's folded over and stitched closed to the edge.

I love this bodysuit and I'll be making the other views.

I finally got around to making a pair of Closet Case Ginger Jeans. And I want to fight myself for not doing this sooner. I can get caught up in sticker shock when it comes to independent patterns. I always tell myself, "Nope... there's a Big 4 pattern twin out there." If there is a Big 4 jeans twin out there, I damn sure haven't ran across and I own A LOT of patterns and I've sewn a lot of jeans.

The last time I made skinnies, I had butt issues and twisting legs. None of that this time.

My fabric is this Dark Midnight Stretch Cotton Blended Denim from Mood Fabrics.com. I cut the size 14 and made a 1" full butt adjustment.

I also added half an inch to crotch length on each pattern piece.

And 1" of length.

Before I attached my waistband, I had to take in the waist significantly. If you notice, I have very little space in between the side seam and the coin pocket. The size is somewhere between the size 10 and 12 at the waist. For my next pair, I'll position the coin pocket better.

And I raised my back pockets up an inch higher than suggested. I always sew my pockets on last, after the jeans are completely done and I can put them on and place the pockets accordingly.

I've worn these jeans about 4 times since I finished them. I really need to make another pair soon before I wear these out!

And my Vogue 1517 gold jacket was the perfect topper!

I love creating separates that can be mixed and matched throughout my wardrobe and worn over and over. I love clothes that I can get great mileage out of, yet has a bit of unique appeal. Like this amazing top.

This is Vogue 1188. It’s currently out-of-print, but still very much of the moment. Dramatic sleeves are presently trending for this season and these sleeves are definitely bringing the drama. The sleeves is what made me dig this pattern out of my filing cabinet. I wanted something simple, but not a t-shirt. And I wanted sleeve appeal. Our fall temperatures are really mild and I can go without a coat since I drive everywhere and I'm never exposed to the elements, for months into the season. So I don't have to worry about working any fancy oversized sleeves into the arms of coats for a while. So I'm going to enjoy myself with this trend.

This blouse is cut completely on the bias. So I had to be very considerate of that when selecting a fabric. I wanted something that would drape beautifully. I wanted a solid because I didn't want to camoflauge a the lines of these fabulous sleeves. And I was also thoughtful in selecting a trending fall color. I call it sewing kismet and feel that the sewing goddesses have shone down upon me when a fabric is “sew” perfect for a design. And that’s how I feel about gorgeous Mustard Solid Suiting.  I know you’re thinking, “Suiting? How does that work for blouse weight?” Simple, it’s a medium weight crepe and perfect for this bias cut. It cut, sewed and pressed like a dream.And it even tucked into my pants without being too bulky. And as a plus, this is one of the hot colors for Pantone Fall 2016 -- Spicy Mustard - 14-0952.

I cut my top in the size 14. It fits perfectly right out of the envelope. But let's talk about these sleeves. When I first saw the pattern, I couldn't really tell what was going on with them. They're probably one of the most uniquely sewn sleeve I've ever made.

The sleeves are sewn in two pieces. Each piece has a sleeve piece and a facing. The facing and sleeve piece are sewn with right sides together. The seam allowance is trimmed down and the right sides are turned out and pressed with the raw edges basted. Each of those pieces are then sewn with wrong sides together and stitched on the indicated line. The sleeve is pressed opened, the raw edges are basted and the sleeve is then set by the flat method and hemmed.

The neckline is finished with a facing. Even as striking as this top is, I still feel like I need one is a bright white!

My DIY leather jeans is the same pattern I've previously use here. 

My jeans were inspired by these Rag & Bone leather jeans.

Modified this time to fit the lack of stretch of this most amazing quality of faux fashion leather I’ve come across. I used this Brown Fashion-Weight Faux Leather. I gave the pattern a full-butt adjustment and added a little more room in the thigh and calf areas.

This fabric is perfect for fashion sewing. It wears like genuine leather and has a look and feel of lambskin, if that gives you any indication of what to expect. I compared it to genuine lambskin in my wardrobe and the only difference – it lacks that leather smell. It’s not vinylish or plasticky like a lot of cheap faux leathers. This is the kind that you find in high-end RTW.

And like genuine leather, this fabric works with a jean sewing pattern perfectly. I sewed these to be really fitted. Because just as genuine leather, this fabric relaxes with wearing. And I didn’t want any bagging out.

Sewing Tips!

Use two sewing machines if possible. One threaded with my normal all-purpose sewing thread and a Microtex needle. I used my walking foot. And the second machine was threaded with topstitching thread (regular thread in the bobbin), a topstitch needle and a teflon foot.

For cutting, I used a rotary cutter.  I would suggest pattern weights. But if you’re really precise, you can pin within the seam allowances. I sewed these as if I was sewing genuine leather and as I normally would for constructing jeans. I serged my seams because I like a clean inside. And most importantly, even though ironing is NOT recommended, I used my iron. I pressed my seams with my teflon foot on my iron and with a pressing cloth. If you choose to press this fabric, be extremely careful to not EVER allow the iron to actually come in contact with the faux leather.

Make sure you remove the metal zipper teeth at the seam line and above. You don't want to hit those with your needle!

I added rivets, just as I would with any jeans.

I made holes for my rivets with a hole punch. Make sure it's not too big because the rivets will work their way through.

From the wrong side, it inserted the rivet post...

On the right side, add the rivet cap. They normally snap on. But you still have to give it a few taps with a mallet to secure it.

So simple and...

the perfect denim signature touch!

I'll be getting a ton of wear out of these pieces!