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Since I made a day dress, I wanted one for cocktail hour too. This pattern is fairly easy, but I still had to make my usually alterations.

Description: Jeans with front pockets with optional coin pocket, fly front, back patch pocket, back yoke, carriers, topstitch detail, slightly low-rise waist (2" below waist) and boot wide leg.

Pattern: McCall's 5329, View B
Fabric: linen blend and cotton batiste for the lining
Notions: Three 1 1/8" buttons

Well, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is finally complete! Yeah for me! I ran into a sizing problem... I guess I miscalculated the finished size. I ended up having to start from scratch, so we'll consider the first a "muslin".

• I went back and cut everything above the waist in a size 16, and the bottom of the jacket in a size 18 (it was originally tight across the hip).
  
• I made a 1" FBA and added 1" to the length.
• Interfaced the entire shell because of the lightweight linen fabric.
• I cut the lightweight interfacing on the bias to provide a better drape.
• Since the pattern did not provide separate pattern pieces, made a 1/4" allowance for "turn of cloth" for collar and lapels.
• The waistband is attached by sewing to the outside of the jacket shell and inserting the ends into the front dart and encasing.
• I cut my darts opened and pressed flat using a tailor's ham to reduce bulk. The instructions suggested pressing to one side.

I can't really tell you whether or not the instructions were easy because I hardly used them because the construction was pretty basic for a jacket. The only time I referred to them was when I put the waist band on. This is a Sew News pattern and they are known for having great step by step instructions and tips throughout.

I really like that this Summer jacket included a lining; I love the elbow length sleeve with ruffle and the semi-fitted style. Since this jacket has a unique style, I think this will be the only one needed in my collection so I will not be sewing this one again, but it is a definite winner.

This Fall, I'll be starting "Project: Chanel Jacket". This is the wool/cotton/silk blend bouclé that I selected for my jacket. I'll be using Vogue 7975 as my pattern.

While shopping in Hancock's a couple of weeks ago,

to make this dress.Simplicity 3874, View B

So far, I've done:

right and wrong sides of band and darts

I decided to do this very popular Builty by Wendy shirt is a sheer. I too had avoided sheers for quite sometime and decided to take on the challenge. This is a very simple pattern and if it had been sewn in a fabric with more body, it could have been completed in probably an afternoon. Since I sewed this in the sheer, I decided to take my time.

I gave most of the construction details in my previous post, but there was one other thing that I didn't include. The additional things I did was a bias-bound armscye. Since I used french seams, I decided that this was the best method for finishing the set-in sleeve seam allowance without resorting to serging, which would have looked unattractive from the right side of this sheer blouse. I did this by sewing the sleeve to the garment and wrapping a bias strip around the seam allowance. The front facing is done by turning back the the CF edge three times for a "self-interfacing" effect. Since my fabric was so sheer, I really feel that I could have used some interfacing right there.

I like the fact that this top is very cute and trendy and I love the mandarin collar. I decided to layer mine over a black cami. It can be worn untucked with the sash or tucked without it.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3744, View A

Fabric:

Fashion Fabric: cotton pique (100% cotton)

Lining: batiste (100% cotton)

Notions: 20" invisible zipper; eye and hook; two 1" buttons; lace hem tape

Description: This is really a simple shift dress with princess seaming and darted bodice to add shape and styled with a boat neck and two front pockets. It is semi-fitted at the bust and easy-fitting through the hip.

This is a Threads Collection pattern that has separate patterns for B,C, and D cups, which make fittings a lot simpler since no FBA was required. This dress is constructed with princess seams that I serged and pressed flat. The only thing unique about this construction (to me) was the pocket. The dress does have neck and armhole facings. To prevent rolling, I understitched them and handstitched them down to the shoulder seam allowances. I cut the pattern in a size 14, I did slightly nip in the waist to prevent the dress from being too "tent-like". At 1" below the waist, I gradually brought the skirt portion out to a size 16 for more of an a-line effect.

I added a lining to the dress because I would just feel naked without one. LOL

I handstitched the lining to the to the facings and the zipper tape.

The back tab which was a great detail to this dress was applied by sewing the buttons to the dress and buttonholes on the tab and fastening it on. To pull the dress off and on, you just undo onside.

All in all, this was a very simple pattern. I just lengthen the process by doing extra things which were a personal preference.

I chose this pattern to make pants after making two pairs of shorts last year. It most resembles one of my favorite pair of casual pants - the Banana Republic Martin Fit Trousers. I really wanted a pair of white linen pants and I knew that using this fabric which is virtually transparent, I would have to line them. I decided to use batiste because it was heavy enough to serve it's purpose but still lightweight enough for Summer pants. Plus, it made a world of difference on how the pants draped.

To make the lining for these pants since the pattern did not provide instructions for one, I positioned the pocket yoke and the pants front together matching the dots and the notches and cut them as one piece added an inch to the lenth (leaving them one inch shorter than the pants). Since I was working with batiste, I used french seams on the inner and outer legs and just serged the crotch seam. I sewed the back darts the same as the pants, hemmed them 1 1/2 inches. I attached the lining by placing the wrong side to the wrong side of the pants, matching seams and darts and basted and then attached the waistband.

* Cut waistband in size 18
* cut front, back and pocket at the top in size 18, graduating to a size 20 at the fullest part of hip
* On the pants back, scooped out the crotch
* Added 2 inches to the length creating a 34" inseam.
* Use the Sandra Betzina method of installing a flat fly-front zipper.
* Added faux flap pockets with welts to the back.
* I used 1/2" buttons for the back pockets sewing them to the pants and made buttonholes on the flaps.
* Used a bias finish on the waistband facing as you would see in most RTW Ladies' trousers.
* Used lace hem tape for the hem on the fashion fabric and 1 1/2" hem on the lining.
* In order to prevent gaposis at the CB, I sewed the waistband and facings at an angle so that it would form to the shape of my waist and the small of my back.

Floorboards Blouse, $98; Jessamine Blouse, $128

Dimensions Blouse, $248; Zapopa Babydoll, $78

When I first saw this pattern, it really did nothing for me. It especially did nothing for me when I say it in Sew Stylish magazine. The way the dress and the top was shown on the model on the inside made her chest look like deflated balloons... talk about an ill fit. But I kept on seeing positive reviews on PR and decided to give it a shot by adding it to my S.W.A.P. collection. Plus, it looks very Anthro!

I always get a little concern with the fit of the bodice with sewing tops that aren't knit and don't have front darts or princess seams. When I did my tissue fit, I saw that my usual size 14 would not provide enough ease through the bust area. I cut the bodice front in a size 16 to compensate for my full bust size and cut the back in a size 14. I also cut the yoke (shoulder piece) in a size 16 for additional length and cut the skirt part in a 14. I used cotton batiste to line both bodice pieces and also used it for the interfacing of the yokes.

I added a waist stay using twill tape because when I did a fitting, the waist felt like it wanted to ride up underneath my bra. Since I was working with the dupioni that ravels something awful, I used french seams. The instructions suggested a lapped zipper installation and 99% of the time when I make a top or a dress, I ALWAYS use invisible zippers. I haven't done it yet, but I do plan to add lingerie guards to keep my bra straps in place.

Overall, this was a very simple pattern that is well drafted and I hardly read the instructions.