Let's continue visiting Aveiro!
Venturing away from the canal, we visited a confectionery store called Confeitaria Peixinho. It calls itself the oldest shop selling ovos moles in Aveiro.
We bought an ovos moles (given that this name is in plural, aka “soft eggs”, I wonder whether one piece of this dessert should be called “ovo mole”? :P ) and another dessert that looked quite good.
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| the barrel-shaped ovos moles |
The shop actually had many shapes of ovos moles. We asked for one, and didn’t specify what shape we wanted, and they gave us this one.
The ovos moles was not very good. The outer white “skin” was thin and seemed to be quite dry (like dried egg white? Haha). And the filling was a simple eggy custard, rather solid. Like the filling of some cream puffs in Malaysia, which I don't like. :P
The other dessert, on the other hand, was really good. We had no idea what it was…but now that I am researching, I saw on Google Maps that someone took a photo of this in the shop, with its name. It is called ninhos de ovos moles (nests of soft eggs). So I guess the eggy custard is the same thing, just that the custard was softer than the one in the basic ovos moles, and the pastry (nest) around it also tastes better than the basic white skin of ovos moles. If I were to go to Aveiro again, this would be on my must-eat list.
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| the yummy nest of ovos moles |
Some souvenir shops actually sell ovos moles sealed in boxes, as souvenirs. But we didn’t buy any, because I think the expiry date was about one or two weeks away, too soon for us at the beginning of our two-week trip!
Close by Confeitaria Peixinho, there is a church and the District Council of Aveiro (the town hall, basically?).
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Igreja da Misericórdia de Aveiro (Church of Aveiro's Mercy)
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Câmara Municipal de Aveiro (District Council of Aveiro)
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On the square in front of the town hall, there is a monument to José Estevão
Coelho de Magalhães, whoever that is. Behind it is the Aveiro public library.
There is also a Cathedral of Aveiro that tourist guides say we should visit, but seeing as it was a little out of the way, we skipped that.
After all that walking, we looked for a good place to have lunch. It was to be our first proper meal in a Portuguese restaurant!
Using Google Maps, we decided to go to O Legado da Ria. (psst…I had huge difficulty finding back this restaurant, because I hadn't saved it, and digging out their receipt, it has another name on it. Luckily the road name was correct…but it took clicking on many shops in that area before I managed to find this)
We ordered two Portuguese specialties: grilled sardines and codfish gratin.
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| grilled sardines, 15€ |
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| bacalhau gratin, 24€ |
This is their special; they call it bacalhau à Legado da Ria on their menu.
Bacalhau is the name for cod in Portuguese, and there are many Portuguese dishes with cod. In Porto we had already tried codfish cakes, and we were to try at least another cod dish later.
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| salad that came with one of the dishes...I've forgotten which. Maybe the sardines? |
The main thing to note is that the codfish gratin dish was HUGE. The sardines were an okay size (not small but not unexpected), and in the photo above, you can see the gratin dish beside it, at the far end of the table. The two dishes made up the length of the table, which is a normal-sized square table for two.
We were initially shocked and thought they had mistakenly given us a double portion of codfish gratin (the menu had single and double portions), but we realized that no, since the sardines were a single portion, this gratin was not double the portion of the sardines.
So…codfish is really cheap there, huh. :P At this price, with the huge piece of fish under all those potatoes, this dish is cheaper than what we would have paid in Malaysia for it, with currency conversion taken into account.
See how thick the fish fillet is…
And the potatoes were so crispy! I didn’t expect them to be so crispy since they are cut quite thick. They were so yummy that I ate quite a lot of them (I picked out all of those that didn’t get soggy), even though the portions of fish were already so big. The potatoes that came with the sardines actually tasted very good as well (well seasoned and with just the correct firmness in texture), but I had to give up on them because the crispy potatoes were better.
But the codfish was actually a little tough. Besides that, the taste was good.
This portion on my plate is to show more of the cheese, which does not look very clear in the other photos.
After this meal, we no longer dared to order one dish each in a restaurant. We would share one dish, or order a main and a side. The huge portions make Portugal rather cheap food-wise.
Also, we noticed that everyone was drinking wine, even though it was a weekday lunch. I had heard that we could ask for tap water, and that’s what we did. The waitress took a moment to understand (I guess it is not a common request!), and we felt very much like the odd one out, with other tables not just drinking wine but ordering more and more. So later on in other restaurants, we would order a drink to share.
To return to Porto, we walked along the main road back to the train station. The road had a number of department stores, but not being into shopping, we didn’t enter any of them. To end this post, let me leave you with another view of Aveiro’s train station, from outside this time.
It looks so pretty! This is why an article said that it was a must to visit the train station of Aveiro, even if we were not taking the train there.