Furka, at the Heart of Swiss Granite

Switzerland is vast - especially in climbing opportunities. Driving to Andermatt last year for skiing, i noticed the granite towers all around. This summer was the time to discover the area. Frequented by Remy brothers, this pass fugures in the top three passes with Grimsel and Susten, to look for when climbing in this 'hilly' country.

The very recommendable Siedelen hutte, run by a loveable Gisler family - and trust me, they know how to cook!, is only 1hr from the car, and 30 min or less from the climbing. Climbing that stands up to its sister-locations at Envers des Aiguilles in Cham or Aiguilles Dorees on the Mt Blanc backside. Several peaks are accessible from this hut - and other areas, such as the famous Grau Wand, from the Albert Heim hut.

We did a mix of three routes on Chli Bielenhorn (starting up Psychides, moving through the Perrenaud and finishing on very nice last 6a pitches of Sacremotion) the first day, and the second day went up the Hanibal point - 5-pitch Capucin-style free-standing tower (see photo below of the before-last 6b pitch on Elephantrussel). The cherry on the cake is the bus station that a crew carried up fixed ropes to the top of the tower last year. Perfect spot for a summit register :)

We've got a winner, or Portalet, second time

Second time on Portalet in two months - that's a lot. And not for anything - Etat de Choc was the big objective for this short w-end. This incredible line, followed from bottom up by the Remy brothers, disturbs the eye by its overhanging perspective and beauty of the setting.

This is the view up the wall, with first 6a pitch before the actual start of the wall - and than the route follows cracks/chimneys to the right of the prominent pillar. Who said there were no chimneys or no cracks worth of that name in Europe? 'Escalade d'anthologie' the guidebook says - and it is truly a stunning experience.

The biggest surprise is the 5th pitch - it is hard to put any grade on it - some of the most claustrophobic climbing ever

with an overhanging offwidth to finish with pleasure on a hanging belay 150m off the deck.

And finally after all the suffering and grunting, one of the best crack climbing pitches ever - here's Mark proudly going up the dream stone.

Yes, Portalet is worth coming back to over and over - to at least look at it for inspiration!

Chamonix, always Chamonix (Brévent, Migot)

Another w-end, another last-minute departure - and another visit to Cham. And why not? There are people who love it, there are people who hate it. I guess i am in the 'love it despite everything' group. Whatever i might have heard about crowds, consumption society and tourist trap, of the two routes we did - we were alone on one, and had to do all the work in knee-deep snow on the second...Yes, there were over 60 people in the refuge - yes, most of them had no idea why they were there, and would have been as happy on a beach with a beer or in front of a big movie screen - but than again, what do i care? It's my temple, it's my land, i'm there to pray - and pray i can alone or among others, believers or simulators, all the same.

First day was an easy one, with a little beauty to start with - Poeme à Lou, a route by Pallandre, maybe not as prolific as Piola in his FAs, but the quality is usually at the RDV when following his lines (his other routes around Mt Blanc count such classics as American Beauty, Sale Athé or Voix du Druide). For our first climb at Aiguilles Rouges, this is a surprisingly sustained line, despite some grassy ledges, short approach and no descent. Unfortunately it is not even mentioned in the official Aiguilles Rouges Topo - but it should. I preferred most the second 6a+ pitch - long, sustained and very technical. I spent a long time leading it - but than could take a couple of nice pictures of my partner following through the eerie clouds.

The 4th pitch should have had a fixed rope to protect a traverse - now it's gone, the move is hardest for the second (probably 6c), avoidable by descending or rapping off the first bolt. Best is the finish - like the Arete des Cosmiques - right under the noses of the gaping tourists.

The second day saw us up in refuge Albert 1er, or rather out of it (wake-up at 2 am - oh my, why am i doing this again???). I already tried to do Migot once last year, without even getting to its start with Remy due to some exciting adventures up Aiguille du Tour. This time was the right one. At the refuge they looked a bit concerned - as no trace was made up the route since the last snowfall and none was willing to go up first. We decided to try.

Early start did not help though, as long, long was the day ahead.

10 hours to get to the top - and another 9 to get down...Hmm, maybe that's the record for the longest climb of Chardonnay...Anyway, we returned safely despite long searches for rappels, crevasse avoidance in the white-out and unending walk back down to the refuge. A well-merited supper awaited us there with kind words from the crew. Good people, nice refuge - nevermind the crowds.

Chardonnay has a very pleasant summit - and this is the view (Aiguille Verte) from it.

Or this View of the World

More of a Kusturician view of the world, right out of Arizona dream...

(copyright Magnus Carlsson, taigavision.com)

Picture of the Day

Bacon's Head I

("I lost my left ear due to a bite while fighting with another human, i believe. But through the infinitesimal aperture that remains i clearly hear the noise of the world. I also see things, although with difficulty and from an oblique angle..." excerpt from Vargas Llosa's interpretation of this painting in "Eloge de la maratre")

Cerces or Perfect Summer Day

Perfect weather forced me to go to the mountains despite the lack of partners. One place i had my eye on for some time - small limestone massif of Cerces, at Lautaret col, in front of Ecrins. Only good things were said by people who had already visited the place, and now i will add to their words. Above is the picture of Tete de la Colombe, a peak we planned but did not actually climb. Some very nice routes there as Bal des Boucas, or harder ones on l'Ecaille.

First objective - Ponant Neuf on Tour Termier, The approach is reasonable, with around 2h if you park at the tunnel, and even less from Col du Galibier (better option we did not take from foolishness). This is the view from the walk-up to warm up the spirit. From the top of the Tour, you can probably see with binoculars people finishing la Traversée de la Meije.

Despite being alone on the approach, we find more than 6 parties under the wall - 2 go off for Feu Sacrée, the rest waits for Ponant Neuf. Apparently this is a well-known classic...We opt for its neighbour, and start up la Terre-Minée , a little bit harder, but also bolted. This is my newly-found partner Gwen on easier P3.

Several pitches are very nice - the second (crux) 6b, fourth 6a, and the rest to the top, with incredible last pitch traversing under the final roof (the same as a variant for Ponant Neuf). Overall good rock, but Gwen manages to dislodge a big rock just a meter off route and send it flying down to add adrenaline to the couple of parties climbing below us. Crowded mountains = dangerous mountains...It all finishes well and we descend on foot taking in the beaty of the place.

On the second day, due to the lack of time, we go to Contreforts de la Roche Robert to try Helene et les Garçons. With our luck, already 2 parties are at its start, so we switch again to the route on its left, a little bit harder, first half less memorable, but very nice two last pitces at 6b and perferct limestone.

Clocher du Portalet and Aiguilles Dorees

Finally got to the mountains during last w-end, and not anywhere - an enchanting spot, paradise for beginners, but also for advanced masters of the art. Overshadowed by Chamonix, the great neighbour, this backside of the Mt Blanc chain hides some real treasures - like the Clocher du Portalet, one of the rare, vertical to overhanging pieces of granite on 200 meters of perfect stone. Maybe it is not an equal to El Cap, but given the environment, the glaciers and the wonderful free climbing lines, it's not far.

We tried our teeth on Esprit du Clocher, beautiful crack line on the East face, just around the corner from the North one harboring such beauties as Etat de Choc by Remy brothers. This wall has to be seen to be believed - an incredible bit of rock sticking out from the ground, perfectly vertical and enourmously steep. The route prooved to be a bit over our heads - we reached the top grumbling and spending the whole day (+ 3 hour approach) there - alone, as another party bailed on the South-East pillar route. We did get to the top to get this picture -

After a nice accueil at Orny hut (plan to go up to Trient cabin prooved too optimistic as we returned to Orny at nightfall from Portalet), we went up for the second objective - the Aiguilles Dorees. Even further out in the wild, demanding some snow skill at Saleina window, these 400m faces are another wonder of this place.

The descent of the window was rather easy, hardly requiring more than ski poles (crampons didn't get out of our bag either...) and gettres.

However, what awaited on the other side, was certainly worth coming for. Maybe less impressive and vertical (in the first half), Aiguille de la Varappe has gorgeous climbing. Less difficult, on golden granite, it was perfect if not for the wind that chilled us to the bone on the first pitch. Aiguille d'Argeniere looked condecendingly on our efforts, with only 2 other humans crossing the glacier up to Saleina through the day. Certainly the Chamonix crowds are not interested in this place.

Mixing a couple of routes (Eole et Je suis le vent) we got 2 short pitches from the top, to only descend tired and satisfied. What a stone! Have to come back as many routes are still there, especially on Aiguille Sans Nom further in the Dorees chain, as well as on Portalet. Here is the view of the Orny hut on the descent.

Primitifs Flamands and another Art Minute

Weather being what it is, mind is a thing to work at. Visiting Brugges, I stay aghast at primitifs flamands, these painters not applying perspective, painting the uggliest babies possible - and still keeping so much mystery and beauty inside their works...

The Groeninge museum and the St. John's Hospital are definitely worth a peek for at least these two inhabitants...



Not to forget the French working during the same period, here is a pearl that stuck in my imagination - the portrait of Agnes Sorel, the king's maitresse, by Jean Fouquet, to be inevitably seen in Antwerpen.

PS - Do you know that all these unearthly-looking creatures had to shave their foreheads in order to follow the fashion of the time and resemble what we know of them - these paintings! I prefer shaving my legs, long live the 21st century...

Escapade à Paris

Having to study part of the w-end, we spent the other part rollerblading through Paris. Certainly it had to be the hottest day of the year, but comebacks are fun anyway. No old friends were at RDV though - Place Royal seemed abandoned by the roller crowd, no turns or figures there.

Musée Quai Branly substituted for the negative surprise. It is a very nice building, i loved most its naturalistic aspect. Nature is successfully integrated into the whole. Maybe the collections are just a repetition of what the old Museum of Man had to offer, but the new setting make it all much more accessible to the general public. And the Tour Eiffel looks beautifully young from its padio. Welcome to the Paris jungle! A definite must on the unending list of Paris' museums.

Eldorado, the Granite Mecca

Last w-end i finally reached the mountains. It happenned in the always welcoming Bernese Oberland, at the Grimsel Pass. Have not been in this region yet, and waiking up in the morning is definitely pleasant there. A view of Schreckhorn, afterwards Finsteraahorn's East face quickly make up for the driving and sleep deprivation.

We headed to Eldorado, a 500m granite slab over the west end of the GrimselSee dam. As the crowd headed up Motorhead (at least 4 pairs), we turned our attention to Metal Hurlant, a little bit harder alternative. Even here we managed to get off route during the beginning pitches, but did get to the crux arrete 6b through a traverse (photo). Very nice crux that goes through chimney techniques. The top was long and slabby 5a/c pitches. Long time i didn't do that kind of climbing - makes me think of Val di mello. With 2 bolts per pitch, even at 5a i failed to lead, but fun was there anyway.

Couleur Café

This w-end was full of discoveries - first and foremost at Couleur Café festival. We went there Friday, before the unfortunate fire on Saturday, and fun it was. Despite a slight disappointment with Gotan Project and Sanseverino, my favorite was Vetex Orchestra, a local band that kept me jumping on one leg up and down all evening.



Here is a link to their music, similar to Varda - and something to be seen in concert, or should i call it a rambling show with Kusturica taste...
http://www.oidv.net/mp3/oidv_stockholm.mp3

Limestone in CH

Last-minute decision with good results - weather being disgusting in the North, Switzerland looked better on the radar map, there we go! It's been a couple of w-ends i worked on my leading skills back home, so this is not a bad test - go to long-planned for places and try some climbing out!

First objective - the Gasts. Gastlosen is a magic place that somehow forewent overcrowding and still keeps its origins untouched. It is usual to spend many minutes on the approach in the car, waiting for all the cows to cross or to smell milk with that particular 'just from the cow' smell when entering a refuge.

Rain greats us in the morning, but the wind is quiet and south faces look good. We start the approach in the rain - not exactly the best thing when planning for a 400m classic, but whatever, we're hungry to climb. The limestone looks good - almost untouched despite all guidebooks calling Nikita the classic of the place. Opened in the beginning of the 90ies for its first part, it was finished in the 2000. The enormous S face looks almost bare of long routes, and we start the fun. Slabs and slabs, friction and more slabs characterize well the 200m to come. Fun, and we're not too tired to try the second part. A bit harder, the first 7a pitch is undecipherable; things get better afterwards with very cool 6bs in the end. We are tired and demotivated enough to leave the last 6a and 6c pitches alone, and successfully rap down for the dinnertime. Good times.

The day afterwards is a 'rest day'. It starts with a perfect bivy at Buufal, a magic valley. We wake up to find wigwams, cows and horses nearby. Oh, this strange world. Up we head to the wall. Alone all day, with perfect sunny weather and awesome climbing - the first pitch of Stern Sturn proves cumbersome, but afterwards it constantly gets better. With almost 200meters, the day turns out well.

Terracotta Soldiers or the Burried Army

What better soldiers than those out of terre cuite? That's what i think anyway, although it might not exactly be a defendable concept for the weapons' market or the political elite. Hey, don't the chinese possess the wisdom in its infinitesimal detail? That's at least how their First Emperor saw his army - all terracotted!

Seriously though, this is a stunning story a friend of mine brought up in conversation last week as she visited the Mausoleum during her China trip. Very like the Egyptians, a Qin emperor Shi Huangdi, who also was the instigator of the Great Wall (unifying several pre-existing walls), started to create his burial monument when he became emperor. The project was finished a couple of years after his death, taking over 700 000 workers and over 30 years to complete. The result is one of the most extra-ordinary archeological finds of the last century - over 8 000 soldiers and their horses, each sculpted with a unique facial expression, garment and color depending on rank that protect the yet unexcavated tomb of the emperor. Sure, this is more of an immortality dream than anything else, in addition to being a strong symbol of China's power (reflected nowadays through several medium, i.e. Zhang Yimou's movies) and nationalism. But then it is also a monument to those 700 000 workers (and no, i'm not wearing red today) that managed this feat and created the mystery for us to contemplate - and were supposedly burried at the site as well not to divulge the secrets of the place...

Moral of the story - the emperor died anyway and never managed to find the immortality potion, his army was disarmed and burned a couple of years later (today soldiers have no colors and no weapons), and the whole story forgotten. If not for a couple of well diggers in the 1970ies, Xian would receive much less tourists today!

Paris or a comeback

Paris is a wonderful city. Crowded, polluted, smelly and hot - but it is still great, and it welcomes its old and new lovers with the same open arms. A hot chocolate at LaDurée to start the day, followed by museum visits, a run through le Marais to buy some Jewish delicatessen goodies, and day's end at Berthillon's on Ile St Louis made me wish for more. Notre-Dame looked too white, but Musée Branly is still to visit, as well as the newly restored Musée Guimet.

I was happy to get into the L'Âge d'or de l'Inde Classique expo at Grand Palais - the beauty of the Gupta statues is breathtaking to say the least - unforgettable look from this fellow will stay with me for some time. Another country to visit - oh so big and interesting! Also noticed new books to read - Rushdie's new novel, Shalimar the Clown, and Sealy's Troter-nama.

Last but not least museum of the day - the newly restored Orangerie. Monet and his virtual reality, but also Paul Guillaume's collection I have previously not seen with beautiful Picassos, a couple of Provence paysages of Derrain not to be missed and some Soutine and Modigliani paintings to finish this art-fest for me.

Ducasse in Mons

This is a special folklore party in Mons - Belgians do have incredible customs and their own way to party indeed! It all started in the beginning of the second Millennium, when a supposed dragon or crocodile ravaged the region and a brave Chevalier killed it. How from this legend do you get this?

Go figure. Nowhere else than in Belgium...A way for people to get crazy, mix St George in the matter to keep the inquisition happy and create a bunch of customs as good as any vulgar Romans or Greeks could imagine. A nowadays Chevalier kills the dragon with a pistol and thousands try to get a hair from its tail for good luck...

Go figure again. Afterwards the city is a mass as bad as a mass could be with piss and trash invading all the streets. Even in Paris after July 14th or in Southern France cities after the Corrida you won't find as much trash and piss in one place. Unesco heritage it is!

Last stop - Buoux ***

As snow and rain caught up with us, we headed seawards again and found ourselves in Buoux for the last days enjoying sunlight and scenery. After Spain's low season and a rather solitary nature enjoyment, we got directly into the Provence high season. Disgusting visit to Fontaine de Vaucluse with thousands of merchants at Petrarka's temple, not as disappointing sight of Rousillon the ocre one and Notre Dame de Senanque abbaye.


Climbing in Buoux is superbe though - quality, not too many people, and lots of projects!!! Place to come back to.

El reino de los Mallos de Riglos ***

Looking for a friendly kingdom to visit for a couple of days? Here is a plan for you :

This is a kingdom of an old old king that decided to live in the mountains to escape his enemies and keep his faith. But most of all he enjoyed looking at the towers from his palace - the angry birds flew around them, but sun peacefully washed the hatred away each morning, and the river made things smooth and cozy. One day, the kind died, the queen went away, the ruins and the towers stayed.

Than a thousand years later, climbers showed up. They looked up the towers with the same eyes as did the king. But they had equipment, prowess and a daring mind. Thus the place went crazy, and now you not only see birds, sun and river play games with the stoned giants, but also white lines through overhangs that make for a surreal impression from afar, and prove to be chalk from close-by. Yes, this is a crazy overhanging multi-pitch jug-hauling climber's paradise. Slowly loosing the wild feel, Riglos village is getting more traffic and some boring construction sights - go there while the magic is still around and maybe you will meet the king in some abstruse and humid crack or chimney gaping out at you in wonder.

Aiguille d'Ansabere

Cirque of Lescun is one of the most beautiful and wild valleys I have seen (yes, despite like 20 hikers that passed gaping under our route and the five Galsworthy Englishmen inhabiting for two weeks the Ansabere cabins below - btw they were very nice and ofered us perfect coffee with rom - apparently called Jamaican coffee - boiled in an Irish storm kettle!). Here is the view from the parking lot at our objective - the climbing happens on the very vertical pillar to the right.



We actually tried for the proposed route (Spigolo on Petite Aiguille d'Ansabere) twice, the first attempt finished in rambles as Renaud decided to have stomach ache at 6 am.

The second attempt proved successful although we had to do the 7b pitch through aid and nearly missed a thunderstorm on top that made me enjoy much less the last 2 pitches. Exposure and view from the place are perfect - although climbing-wise we were a little bit disappointed (maybe getting out the aiders had smth to do with that...).



This is me following the 7b pitch, and here is Renaud in the middle of an easier traverse after that.

Finally, the thunderstorm got us just before we joined the five Englishmen for coffee - and here is what we got :

Gorges de la Jonte ***

Awesome place where we spend the next 2 days and even meet the nababs Petje and Paul working their projects in Tarn. After some beer sharing, we fall into the high grades mood and try a route up la Cathedrale the last day. Fearesome undertaking with a first 6c off-width-chimney-mummy-i'm-being-born pitch, second oh-my-god traverse with a humble 5c, and a third powerful 6c+ a1...The easiest up this surreal face. Rappelling down is also fun - partly due to a look you get on all those other climbs.

Here is another cool picture of Vase de Seve and me toproping the final pitch.

Seynes or Colonettes Paradise

First stop, after a very welcome night and breadfast at Thomas' place (best man for croissants and a smile in the morning) we head to Seynes, one of the rare places without rain for the start of our vacation.

After a fun initiation sector, Renaud goes for his project - very photogenic and polished neural tube. Looks like a bridal veil and is more about chimney climbing than real colonettes fun. Unfortunately other colonettes climbs around look too hard, we move to more crimpy right side to finish the day.