NEW vs OLD

For the October issue of Singapore's Haper's Bazaar, Kim Reyes wrote an article called "Labels You Need To Know NOW".

Listed in the article, are how newer designers aesthetics epitomize some of the most well-known and respected designer in the industry now.
Limi Feu was elaborated as "tomorrow's answer to" her father, Yohji Yamamoto. Others listed are Gareth Pugh to Alexander Mcqueen, Chris Benz to Marc Jacobs, Derercuny to Alberta Ferrati, Diana Orving to Sophia Kokosalaki, and more..

Though debatable, I've always think that the best way to discover new designers, in both the case of being avant-garde, or not, is to categorize them into more finite and specific area of design. For example, when you think of Mary Katrantzou , you think of prints. When you think of Sandra Backlund, you think of knits. When you think of Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, you think of Kimonos. This way, you get to understand the identity of the designer in a more dimensional way.

So maybe relating them, with a famous designer, and adding the "tomorrow's answer to" might just be the best way to evaluate?

If that's the case, should I name Yuima Nakazato as "tomorrow's answer to" Hussein Chalayan?

Yuima's Antwerp graduating collection

More S/S09 Ad Campaigns Rolling in (P2)

Akris

Modeled by Daiane Conterato, shot by Steven Klein.

Yes! Personally, I think Daiane's one of the most underrated models in the industry right now. She might be (unoffically) Isaac Mizrahi's mini muse, or still having a fair share of exposure in shows and all, but I still think that she deserves MORE!

Shot by famous Steven Klein, which is pretty much his style of photography. Straight front, no angles. Not quite sure whether the mirror helped, but I think it would be better if say Fabien Baron were to shoot for the campaign. His F/W 08 Calvin Klein campaign with Suvi was amazing, and might suit this campaign better!

Giorgio Armani

Sasha Pivovarova by Mert & Marc.

Yes, Sasha might not be the Prada girl anymore, but her portfolio's still growing! And how unexpected of her to do Giorgio Armani!

Mert and Marc continued their blurry style from the previous Giorgio campaign, only without colours this time, but still worked wonders!

Prada

Viktoriya Sosonkina, Toni Garrn, Ymre Stiekema, Katrin Thormann, Nimue Smit, Sigrid Agren, and Giedre Dukauskaite by Steven Meisel.

Hands down, one of the most anticipated and talked about campaigns. All the youngest, freshest, newest models in the industry, all in one shot. And looking better on the runway, without the cold sweat and clinching for the trembling models.

And how amazing would it be to be on the usual 2 page spread?! Not wasting a single space, which definitely worth the money. Kudoos Meisel!

Bally

Christy Turlington by Mario Sorrenti.

Nothing special really. Sick of Christy, though I always a fan of Sorrenti.

Pic credit-tfs

"It's The Idea Bingboompia!"

The FashionRocks event has always just seem tacky to me. Especially recent years. Like how "related" to fashion when Beyonce tribute to Etta James? Or how demoralizing the crowd were when Beth Ditto sang for Christopher Kane last year?

But of course, I do love some of the presention+performances, ALOT! And one of my favourite would have to be this Alexander Mcqueen presentation + Bjork performace of Bachelorette from the album Homogenic. Maybe I'm being a little bias, since I adore Bjork, and my favourite album from her is Homogenic.

(Please forgive her off-tuned first note and occasional screams)

Bjork and Alexander Mcqueen's history goes back since Bjork's Vespertine days, which is around 2001.

Next video was also from the same year's event, 2003, when Robbie Williams performed "Feel" for Versace:

Yes, this would definitely happen when you put Robbie Williams with models, especially Versace models. HAHA! And look closely at Robbie at 1:07! :D:D:D

Changes For Valentino?

Besides the latest campaign, nothing new might have been productive from the house of Valentino. So before any new collections from the house's latest crop of designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, I really can't help myself but start dreaming about the future for the big label.

And what I meant by future here, means a very, very faaaaar-fetched future.

You might or might not already know that the fresh gradute from Central Saint Martins(CSM), and winner of L'Oréal Professionnel Award 2008, Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, has landed a job on the house of Valentino. She's the first talent from ITS (International Talent Support) to have a job opportunity for Valentino. Normally it's Lanvin, Antonio Marras, or Roberto Cavalli.

What I'm pondering on, is how involved CAN Alithia's ideas be with the new designers, with the note that both Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli has been with Garavani Valentino for years, before poor Alexandra Facchinetti got into the picture.

So as a fresh graduate, and with the recent emphasis and celebrations for young designers, can Alithia Spuri-Zampetti be a little hint for the future of Valentino?

What do you think? Too early to tell?

I'm Sorry, It's Christmas, But...

Donatella, I love you, I really do. But apparently and evidently, being sophisticated, especially at your age, doesn't appeal to you much.

Eww?

Pre-Fall 09: Missoni

With my Photoshop application back on, let's get back on the Pre-Fall collections!


When it comes to prints, most probably the label "Missoni" and it's signature geometric prints would comes to mind.
But this pre-fall season, Angela Missoni seems to embrace the aesthetics of her parents in the 70s more than ever. Her past seasons would also consists of plain pieces that seems to work as a balance element to tackle the possibility of prints overloading. This season, however, makes me re-ponder, why would she need to do that?

Besides the red gown in the forth collage, ever single piece is covered in different geometrical prints, including the tights and outerwear, which is one of Angela's stapled items in most collection. Mostly knitted, it gives the prints a softer edge as compared to those of say, on the silky fabrics of the latest pret-a-porter S/S 09, and Fall 05 collections.

This looks, ironically, more subtle and cozy.

From boringly expectable for years since 2002, to kinda an abrupt Japanese influenced for S/S 09 recently, this might be by far, the best collection I've seen from Angela in a long time.

Avant-Garde + Beyonce?

Beyonce- Diva

Honestly, I have no idea why Gareth Pugh would agree to dress Beyonce. And the first time was already quite a mess. Narrow-minded, or not, I just can't piece both artist together. Maybe I'm too used of Beyonce in Elie Saab or Dolce & Gabbana.

For Roisin Murphy case, I understood and adore her in Gareth. But Beyonce? Hmmm..

Where Where Where?!

Alright, I'm pissed.

I've been waiting for this December issue of Dazed & Confused for a month now, and it's still nowhere to be found?!

Other magazines are done with their January Issue, and covers of Feburary issues are already popping out.

Come on, ship in faster! So anyone who sees it in stalls, please kindly notify me alright? Deeply deeply DEEPLY appreciated.

Edit: I JUST GOT THE COPY! YEAH! :D:D:D

More S/S09 Ad Campaigns Rolling in

Sorry for the lack of updates(well, if anyone ever cared), though I'm currently having my holidays now(woohoo!), social life's still quite hectic for me.

More pre-fall collections posts coming up, that's when I re-install my Photoshop application, since I just reformatted my laptop some time ago.

Anyway! Let get back to the title topic. S/S09 Ad campaigns are slowly popping out one-by-one now, and honestly, I'm feeling quite disappointed with what I saw so far.

Prada Homme

Modeled by Louis and Claude Simonon, sons of Paul and Tricia Simonon, the bass player and manager of Punk band The Clash.

Shot by (surprise surprise!) Hedi Slimane.

First of all, let me just say that I have absolutely no freaking idea who the 2 boys are, and secondly, why the hell Hedi?!

It's undoubtable Slimane's getting more recognition nowadays, after those Vogue Homme Nippon and Dazed & Confused editorials. But I really do think that too much of one thing, or in Hedi's case, one signature-turning-boring photography skill, doesn't worth anticipating. Meisel hit right on spot for the past few campaigns, with accurate seize of the collection's mood and character.

With all that aside, why suits? Just when Miuccia added something new to her archives, they chose to stick to the prosaic of primitive menswear. S/S 09 was one of the best menswear collection from Miuccia in a long time, with the slouched silhouettes and interesting fabrics.

Blumarine

Featuring Natasha Poly again, shot by Craig McDean.


Gorgeous collection, magnificent model, crumbled into a awful result by McDean. McDean has always been hitting and missing with his campaigns, so all I gonna say, maybe it's the time or place.

Valentino

Stephanie Seymour by Mert & Marcus.

(Sorry to be a nostalgia cry baby, but it has been disheartening to see the collection from my girl Alexandra Facchinetti. )


Anyway, this would have to be one of the more delightful campaign here. Kudos to Mert and Marcus for being able to come up with such subtle, feminine, elegant work. And of course, well modeled by Stephanie.

Oscar De La Renta

Raquel Zimmerman, shot by Craig McDean.

One of my favourite pieces from the collection, the side ruffled skirt. But I would have to say that the model chose seems a little off to me. See, I would have preferred someone more elegant and classic to face the house of ODLR. Zimmerman just seems too rough to me in a way.

Max Mara

Eniko Mihalik and Lakshmi Menon, shot by Craig McDean(yes, again).

Boring as usual, but love the inclusion of an asian model. Previous season was Hye Park.

Feeling Optimistic Again

(I know everyone should be jaded by the recurring phrase of "in a time like this", or "in the face of recession we're facing now", but I guess they still can't be avoided much.)

In a time like this, it's either you strink, or you expand. Cut down on your expenses, or try all means to get more liquidity, or simply, and the best option, both.

After Donna Karen cancelling her upcoming DKNY runway presentation show in Febuary, and Consuelo Castiglioni cancelling her Marni upcoming menswear Fall show in January, we might be feeling a little unenthusiastic.
But now, we can have enough reasons to optimized again. Recently, both Matthew Williamson and Gareth Pugh had annouced their expansion to Menswear.


Williamson will be presenting the line during January 2010 (most probably the collection for Fall 2010), while Gareth Pugh will be presenting his nearer, the upcoming Menswear Paris fashion week Fall 09, at the art museum Palais de Tokyo.


Matthew Williamson:

"In menswear, there is a fine line between boring and 'costume,' and I want to hit that sweet spot. It won't be about minimalism, but it also won't be about this for men. I think Dries Van Noten, for example, gets the balance right,"

I would have to agree with him, and am glad that he eulogized Dries Van Noten for his balance. His designs are all very wearble, yet innovative. My favourite Menswear collection from the man would have to be Fall 08. About the "balance" that he mentioned there, designers like Galliano would definitely be more costume-like, while designers like Valentino or D'squared looks pretty much the same every season.

Really can't wait to see the prints and incorporation of them into menswear.



Gareth Pugh:

"It just feels like an organic progression and yes, I am going to be very busy working over Christmas!"

Good news just doesn't end for this young talent doesn't it? What avant-garde ideas will he come up with, especially with the more versatility restricted (conventionally) nature of menswear.

Can't wait!

Longchamp S/S 09 Ad Campaign featuring Kate Moss and Sasha Pivovarova

Never would I thought that I would see Moss and Sasha together in a shot. But I would have to say that the combination worked really well.

Shot by Mert and Marcus, I'm really impressed by how versatile they are. Their portfolio has a range of glamourous(Vuitton campaigns), to mysterious(Armani campaigns), to haunting (POP editorials), and to this slightly vintage campaign.

Anyway, is it just me, or does sasha looked kinda different here? Maybe it's the hair...

French Vogue Lara

It was recently annouced that Lara Stone would soon be featured in the february 09 issue of French Vogue, ALL-BY-HERSELF. Yes, the whole issue, 100++ pages of Lara Stone cheekbones and boobs(you should've already been expecting that).
Rumors states that the spread will be modeled after Brigitte Bardot's role in the 1956 film, Et Dieu Créa La Femme("And God Created Woman "), directed by Roger Vadim.

Yeah... Google about that (sorry, blogspot's giving me a hell for uploading pictures.) and you will see how epitomizing lara is for the film.

A scene from the film, which is "considered by some to be one of the most erotic scenes in the history of cinema"(wiki):

It's no secret that Carine loves Lara, since she was the one who re-discovered Lara and gave her those iconic bleached brows. But as much as loving lara myself, delicating the whole issue just on Lara just seems overboard. Oh well, we shall see when the issue's out.

The More We Get Together

I know nothing about the behind-the-scenes logistics of editorials, NOTHING. But what I do know, is that to come up with an extraordinary editorial, the team behind them are excruciating crucial.


For myself, my favourite pairings of fashion directors and photographers would have to be Kate Phelan with Nick Knight, or with Tim Walker. Kate Phelan's feminine yet fantastical styling really do works wonders in Nick Knight's studio shoots, and Tim Walker's adventurous style outdoor shoots, which both, can be seen in multiple British Vogue editorials.


Another favourite pairing of mine would have to be stylist Olivier Rizzo with photographer Willy Vanderperre. Rizzo's laid-back and sometimes volumized styling harmonize well with Vanderperre's simple shooting style and his requirements of the models giving weird yet effortless poses and facial expressions. Both of them worked together for some Jill Sander's ad campaigns, which work equally well, with the notes of Jill Sander's minimalism aesthetics.


Recently, with Hedi Slimane being much more focused in his photography duties, I think his minimal shooting style complements amazingly with Nicola Formicetti's street-ish and avant-garde styling. Remember F/W Nippon Vogue Homme?


For the up-coming issue of Dazed & Confused January 2009, the pair worked together again for multiple covers. The reason for so many covers? I've no idea, but still, I like it.

This Is What I'm Talking About...

As I had mentioned previous in the Pre-fall 09 collection for Burberry, I personally think that Eden Clark epitomize the image of Burberry recent autumn aura better.
And here she is again for the S/S 09 campaign together with Lily Donaldson, Alexina Graham and Richard Wyndham.

Shot by Mario Testino, with colours this time, obviously, considering it being a Spring ad campaign. But I'm sorry for still feeling a slight pick on the chest, as Christopher Bailey's recent chilling designs just makes the whole campaign with the green house(?) backdrop seems... wrong.

What you guys think?

In Henry Eyes...

Honestly (and/or unfortunately), Henry Holland's quirky aesthetics has always intrigues me. I know myself, fashion should also be fun and rule-less.
So after the ever-going buzz about the man's designs, he had recently done some illustrations for some of the big names in fashion, and his all-time muse, Agyness Deyn(no surprises eh?). The only catch, they're all nude. Also, rumors have been spreading on these illustrations will eventually be printed on T-shirts selling through House Of Holland.
Flattering, or not, admit it, they're for mirth and fun.

Agyness Deyn

John Galliano

Karl Lagerfeld

Donatella Versace

But on the other hand, those subjects being illustrated, I have no idea what they'll be thinking, even though they had already approved Henry's creative editorial.

Pre-Fall 09: Zac Posen

Before someone is able to enlighten me, I'm officially confused by the works of Zac Posen recently.
Anything before S/S 08 was just LOVE.
But when he starts to progressively taking more "risk" from Pre-Fall 08 onwards, things just goes from digestible, to puke-able.
"I'll have to apologies, as I hardly critic a designer's work using such harsh words, but I guess I'm over my limits on Zac Posen. He was one my favourite designers!"

Firstly, let's take a look at his latest Pre-Fall 09 collection:

Yea, tell me about it guys. If you think his S/S 09 was incoherence enough, this pre-fall collection just blew that enough. The elements and colours are inconsistent, from exotic prints, to fringe, to ruffles.

I would rather him to stay safe, do what he does best, and still get (another) rave review. Even if he wants to try some risk, BE READY TO CHALLENGE IT FIRST! Not get drowned by it.

Abbey Lee Kershaw, Face of Flora By Gucci

I would have to say that girl Abbey Lee's hitting it bigger and bigger each time! After being overshadowed at her previous Gucci Ad campaign and those infamous Rodarte and Alexander Mcqueen mishaps, she had finally found her big break. Walking for Victoria's Secret(let's face it, it's every model's golden pool) and now, fronting for Gucci's new fragrance, Flora by Gucci.

Shot by, of course, Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, which did a much much MUCH better job as compared to their previous and first Gucci fragrance ad, Gucci by Gucci, featuring Natasha, Raquel and Freja.

The next thing to anticipate, is the advertisement, cause honestly, I don't wear any scent. So yea... Besides, the previous ad directed by David Lynch was pretty amazing, so it's worth the anticipation.

This is so funny!

The following youtube video is for Gemma Ward fans. Yes, we might not see her on the runways anymore, but I'm kinda relieve that she's still working, only this time, for her dream goal. Acting.
This interview is about her movie "The Black Balloon", and somewhere around 1:26, they showed clips of the young and crazy gemma! Look how CUTE she is with that doll face!

Pre-Fall 09: Burberry Prorsum

I recalled once, there was a discussion between an anonymous reader and myself about how designers kept on repeating the same silhouette or concept for seasons. Personally, I like when designers creates their own style and signature look, much like Roland Mouret, Roksanda Ilincic, Giambattista Valli or Matthew Williamson.

I also do believe that designers has their own period of different inspirations, like Nicolas Ghesquiere's 08 sculptural or Gaultier's 07 military.

But in the case of Christopher Bailey, I'm starting to wonder whether his current obsession with the autumn colour palette with textured coats (mostly trench), slim bell-bottom pants and statement necklace, is getting a little too far.

Pre-fall 09

(modeled by Eden Clark, who personally, embodies the chilling concept of recent Burberry better than Iekeliene stange)

The history of the inspiration was first presented for Pre-fall 08, theoretically, a year ago. That collection was by far, to me, the best out of the "whole bunch". Bailey created some amazing outerwear, back then, that had lots of volumes yet individually versatile.

Pre-fall 08

And it started to repeat itself.

Fall 08

Resort 09

Spring 09

And honestly, it's getting boring for me. Come on Bailey, I know you can do something better, or DIFFERENT!