Twenty years ago this week, Yours Truly celebrated his 22nd birthday in Germany. I had been in the country since late July 1996, and by this point -- the halfway mark in my Junior Year abroad -- felt like I was finally coming into my own in a lot of good ways. Many friends, more comfort with the German language, a two-month school break beckoning in a few weeks to give us the chance to explore other European countries, and a generally very good time of life all made this a wonderful season.
The above photo features two friends from that year: Jamie of Wisconsin and Kirsten of Michigan. There were a ton of "Amis" in Freiburg, and most Americans tended to gravitate to each other, but we certainly mixed in German and international students in our groups as well. We lived in the "International Siedlung" or community. On my dorm floor alone were students from South Korea, Japan, India, and Italy, while other German students had recent ancestors from Poland and Austria and the Czech Republic.

This photo shows one of my standard late-night activities: cooking grilled cheese sandwiches for friends in our dorm kitchen. Each dorm floor had a kitchen and a small dining room. All utilitarian, very German, and orderly. We'd go out to the bars until midnight or so, then some of us would return to my floor, where I'd fire up the stove and cook sandwiches. We'd eat around 12:30 or 1 in the morning before finally retiring to bed. This wasn't an every night event, but it also wasn't limited to just the weekends.
Looking back, I don't know how any of us handled the consistent sleep deprivation and non-standard sleeping hours! But hey, that's what being in your twenties is about! I re-read my journal I kept that year (on the advice of UMass-Amherst friend Jenny Richardson) and I'm amazed at these outings, which caused me to crash until 10:30 or 11 the next morning.
This photo is one of my favorites from the Freiburg Year: Lucas Hansel, Sara Skluzacek, and me. Luke and Sara are Americans, though Luke's grandparents were from Austria. Sara's ancestors were from the Czech Republic. I've always been so interested in people's ancestry, guessing (in my mind) where their surname originates, and asking about what they know of their family background.
Luke, Sara, and I were really close friends, but within a few weeks of this photo, Luke and Sara stopped speaking to each other. I don't know why, and I am sure that I didn't know really why when their split happened. It saddened me and all of us, and made for some awkward times. Luke and I both went to UMass-Amherst, and as our time in Germany drew to a close in the summer ahead, I often thought how cool it would be when we'd return to college and hang out as much as we did in Germany. While we did see each other a lot our last year of college, it was mostly in classes and during the lunch hour; Luke left campus almost every Friday night to visit his cousin at a college in Vermont for the weekend. This made our friendship in Freiburg all the more poignant when I reflected on it.

And here is Sara and me, that same birthday night, air guitar-playing to Oasis. Remember that group? Probably my favorite song of this Junior Year abroad was their hit "Don't Look Back in Anger." I loved that song, and very quickly I grew to really like Sara. Unfortunately for me, she had a boyfriend in America, and he visited a few times -- even once encouraging Sara to date me. Hmm.
Just like envisioning spending a ton of time with Luke when we left Freiburg and returned to UMass, I envisioned all sorts of fun, memorable experiences with Sara in Europe had we dated. But it wasn't meant to be, as painful as it was. I can still remember, one evening after someone snapped this photo, standing in my dorm kitchen, just me and Sara. Our feelings for each other were palpable. There was an electricity in the air that I had probably never felt as strongly before. We both felt it and knew it and commented on it.
Still, what was never to be in one aspect with a short shelf-life (we would have split before or after returning to the U.S.) was surpassed by a friendship that remains good two decades later. Sara and I keep in touch by text and about an annual phone call. We've seen each other maybe a half-dozen times since, but we're friends for life.