Twenty years ago today, I arrived in Amsterdam with 4 Americans and one Spanish woman, all of us college students, for a brief visit. And by brief, I mean 12 hours.
On August 17th, 1996, I had been in Europe for less than three weeks, starting my junior year abroad in Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany. One weekend, our little group of friends decided to take a super-cheap Schoenes Wochenende ("beautiful weekend") train ride to the Dutch border. In Germany, the Deutsche Bahn rail system offers Schoenes Wochenende train rides, only within the borders of Germany, for dirt-cheap prices. The catch is that the trains are super-slow and often feature numerous stops for connections and transfers, so going to a city four hours away may take double that on a Schoenes Wochenende train.
We were very young, adventurous, and able to bounce back easily from little to no sleep. Our group thought it would be simply fantastic to hop a Schoenes Wochenende train from Freiburg at about 1 in the morning on a Saturday, get as close as we could to the Dutch-German border, and then depart on a Dutch train at Enschede in the eastern Netherlands province of Overijssel to catch a train to Amsterdam.
And we did it! It took us 14 hours to reach Amsterdam. I'm also pretty sure that we rode the train from Enschede to Amsterdam for free; we kept hiding from the train conductor, moving ahead of him or her as they walked through the aisle.
We finally stepped off the train at Amsterdam's Centraal Station on a beautiful Saturday mid-afternoon. The station was stunning, unlike most of the train stations I had seen in the U.S. Our group ate dinner at a sidewalk cafe, and as we sat at our outdoors table, our feet rested not on pavement but on layers of soft sand. I was struck by that. We had Heineken beers with our meal, which I also thought was novel: to be drinking a Dutch beer in the capital of the Netherlands! As an aside, I loved Heineken; it was one of my favorite beers.
Given our incredibly brief time in Amsterdam, we didn't see the Anne Frank House. The lines were far too long. We toured the canals, ate and drank, and later that evening tried to find a youth hostel to stay for our solitary night in the city. Finding nothing as the clock inched closer to bedtime, my friends Dan, Sara, Moira, Sarah, and Virginie, and I opted to sleep outdoors.
Oh, my parents would have been thrilled to hear this if I had told them!
I spent a few hours from midnight until about 5 a.m. in some area between deep sleep and fully awake on a little, beautifully carved park bench in Dam Square, below, in the heart of Amsterdam. For mid-August, it was a chilly night, and I remember thinking it felt comparable to a late fall night back in New England. I felt safe doing this. I don't recall thinking I could be mugged, stabbed, maced, kidnapped, or killed. I'd never sleep outside in any American metropolis, but Amsterdam felt (at the time, at least) light-years safer.
Having slept very little on Friday night into Saturday, and a bit on the long train ride Saturday morning, to then not sleeping much Saturday night...it's a wonder any of us were functioning Sunday morning, when we schlepped back to Centraal Station to begin our 13-hour train ride back to Freiburg! Obviously, I would never attempt such a fiasco-risk farce at my age now, but when you're 20 years old, you can recover rather easily from such shocks to your system.
Plus, it makes for a wild tale, especially for your envious friends back in the States.
I always wanted to return to Amsterdam. A full year loomed ahead in August 1996, and I thought I had plenty of time to re-visit this place, and especially to see the Anne Frank House. It wasn't to be, perhaps because Amsterdam was a victim of relatively close proximity. The city was reachable within just a few hours' train ride (more, of course, if I opted for the Schoenes Wochenende ride, which, of course, I wouldn't do again), so instead I chose to take trips to further-afield locations such as Italy, Poland, and the Czech Republic, thinking that I could return to Amsterdam on any weekend during school vacations.
"Sometime this academic year" became "I won't get there before I return home" became "I'll definitely plan a trip there when I return to Europe" and is now "Maybe Amsterdam will be on a grand European vacation when our kids are older and more self-sufficient, so Becky and I can see it together."
As for this little group of weary travelers, within a few weeks we disbanded. Dan went on to the university town of Konstanz, Virginie returned to Spain, Deb departed for the university town of Ulm. Sara, Moira, and I were to stay in Freiburg for the year, but our friendship was short-lived. We were all very different people, bound together momentarily mostly because we were all Americans who had arrived in a foreign land within days of each other, and our language and customs and dress brought us together. It literally hurt our heads to speak and hear and try to keep up with the German language all day, every day, after having learned it in hour-long college classes a couple days a week back home for the last few years. We were suddenly thrown into a language mixer.
Nothing against any of them, but we weren't destined to be long-term friends. I think of them now with a smile and recall our antics from this excursion two decades ago.