We have been in Turkey just over a year and really have not done justice to our own city. There is so much history in Bursa, and while we do have time on our side to explore it, let us introduce you to some of our city.
Bursa, "Yesil Bursa" (Green Bursa) because of all the green from mountains, agriculture, vegetation, or "City of Water" because of the lakes, crater lakes, rivers and hot springs, no matter what you call it, is the 4th largest city of Turkey. It is said "God gave it beauty, humans made it rich". Bursa, nestled on the lower slopes of Mt. Uludag, is a city where old and new are interwoven; it is modern, yet full of historical richness, natural beauty and economic wealth due to agriculture, auto industry, textiles, silk, and thermal baths. It is a city that embraces the new, yet holds on to customs and traditions of the past. Two disasters, an earthquake in 1855 and a fire of the covered market, are said to have been the catalysts that gave new direction to the city.
While there is evidence of inhabitants here from 4000 BC, it is accepted that Bursa was founded in the 2nd century BC by the Prussians, and subsequently under Pergamum, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Seljuk and finally Ottoman rule. It grew in importance in early Christianity when the Romans found the thermal baths, thus leading to the beginning of the textile industry with "Turkish Towels" for use in the thermal baths. Even though it continued to be known for it's "fashionable" baths, Bursa wasn't always a major player. The Ottomans put them on the map in 1326 when they captured Bursa and made it the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans introduced architecture in the forms of mosques and schools that has earned them a place beside some of the more elaborate creations of Istanbul.
From these views, in different directions, one can somehow get the feel for the size and see that Bursa is basically surrounded by mountains.
On this journey, we will visit the Tophane District, or the oldest quarter of Bursa.
This area goes by Hisar (Citadel, Castle or Fortress) or Tophane (armory) and was originally constructed during the Roman and Byzantine eras, as a completely walled city. The Ottomans spilled outside these walls, along the mountain slopes and into the valley. The remains of this Citadel slope to Attaturk Cadessi, the main thoroughfare, and the city has taken advantage of what does remain and turned it into a park setting (Timurtas Pasa Parki) of stairways, terraces, trees and gardens, with plenty of benches and cafes from which to enjoy the views.
Hisar Gate or Gate of Rule, so called because it was the gate used by Sultans and Mayors. It is one of the 5 gates into the walled city. The 1855 earthquake damaged the gate, but many of the stones and bricks were salvaged to rebuild the gate in 1887. New pieces needed in the reconstruction were made following the methods used during the time of the original construction.
Guarding the entrance into the city.
Views of the slopes from the Citadel down to the main roads; full of gardens, trees, stairs, hotel, and clock tower.
The Tophane area also contains the oldest houses in Bursa, of Ottoman architecture, and the city has made a huge effort at restoring them.
The hub of this area is a Tea Garden that offers magnificent views of the city (complete with binoculars to rent, of course, free enterprise again), the Clock Tower, the tombs of Osman and Orhan Gazi, as well as tea houses and snacks.
A sea of multicolored/multipatterned headscarves at one of the viewing spots....and there are some binoculars too.
This Clock Tower, a visible landmark from around the city, is the remaining one of 4, restored in 1904. Not only were they used for time, but doubled as a watchtower for fires.
Monument to the Martyrs of the Independence War
These "horse chestnut" trees were all over the tea garden, providing beautiful shade and a lovely perfume. The flowers were intriguing. Round "spurs" are left after the flowers are gone.
Ozman Gazi (1257-1326) established the Ottoman Empire and began his run on Bursa in 1315. He was succeeded by his son, Orhan Gazi, who actually finished the taking of Bursa in 1326, just before his father died, by drowning in the Euphrates River. He had told his son he wanted to be buried in the baptistry of the converted St. Elias Monastery. The mosque was destroyed in the 1855 earthquake and it was rebuilt in 1863 using a former plan that called for Ottoman art, brass and mother of pearl. Some of Ozman's sons and grandsons are buried there with him, although there are several nameless sarcophagi.
The external and internal entry to the very elaborate tomb of Ozman Gazi
Architectural elements inside the tomb. Headscarves are supplied for those without.
Many of the women walked through with their hands cupped, a sign of reverence and respect.
Orhan Gazi took over at the request of his father in 1326 and succeeded in capturing Bursa and naming it the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. He gave himself the title "Sultan", struck the first Ottoman coins, and expanded the Empire to Constantinople. He, too, was buried in the converted monastery. His tomb was first damaged by fire, then the earthquake, and this modest tomb was erected by Sultan Aziz in 1863, which is said to be similar to his original tomb. His wife, Nilufer, a Byzantine Princess married off for political reasons, the first of the great ladies of the Ottoman Empire, is buried next to him, along with a son, daughter, and other family members.
Mosque of Sehadet, converted in 1365 by Sultan Murad I. Damaged by the 1855 earthquake, it was reconstructed in 1891.
The door into the minaret...they must have been really short men.
If you are ever in need of a toilet, the Mosques always have very clean facilities. They are always open and you might have to spend 25 or 50 kurus, or even 1lira, but it's worth it.
And just in case you didn't understand the first sign....
Balibey Han, located in one of the busiest streets of Bursa, was restored in 2008. It was built in the 15th century by Balibey, the first 3 floor caravansary of the Ottoman Empire with 64 rooms. A caravansary was a hotel built to accommodate the trade convoys or traveling salesmen, if you will. This caravansary was located opposite the covered markets. During the 1950's it was used as a shelter; during the 1970's as a coffee house; and today is a mixture of restaurants, coffee houses and artisan shops.
And speaking of modern Bursa, located directly across the street from the Tohphane area is Zafer Plaza, one of about 6 large shopping malls in the city. This particular mall consists of 3 different buildings.
One of the Pyramid buildings, which definitely stands out amongst the historical buildings.
Plaza between two buildings. Note the McDonalds ice cream booth. There was also a Burger King one too, to give equal billing.
All that touring makes a person hungry, and what better than finding a Turkish "fast food" place just outside the covered markets (which are just around the corner from the modern mall).
Urfali, the owner, basting the meat of the doner kepab, the meat on the turning rod, usually lamb or a mix of lamb and beef. Sometimes there will be all chicken ones.
Slicing the meat, to be used for durums (wraps), or doner kepab full plate meals.
The sliced and slightly chopped meat.
Oven for cooking the pide for the durum and for cooking the lamacun (la-ma-jun), a Turkish pizza of sorts.
The durum- slices of the doner kepab meat, lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber, wrapped in the pide and eaten. Looks sort of like a burrito, I suppose, but tastes nothing like a burrito. Good way to end the day. Afiyet Olsun!!
