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Oh, Tony!

Fly Away Home

The opportunity to learn about life is so much greater when traveling far from home.

San Francisco

Wednesday...

I swear I'd live here if the ocean wasn't freezing the entire year round. For one thing, my boy, The Earl of Cheddar, lives in Berkeley. I would love to live closer to him, but it's all unfolding as it should.

But, still, the thought of leaving on Saturday, when it creeps in every now and then, well, it just plain hurts. In the meantime, what fun.

Just off the plane, he took me to this amazing Japanese restaurant. Everything was vegan. There was a bakery right next door, so between the deliriously delicious smells wafting from plates of colorful food lining up on the stainless steel counter near the cooking area and the constant yeasty wafting from next door, it was a sensory treat beyond compare.

After the best ever miso soup, pot stickers (I love that name), vegan sushi rolls, and golden fried tofu squares swimming in some mind-blowing dark sauce, we headed for CINNAHOLIC. Dear God, and there must be one if these fat glazed dough swirls of deliciousness exist, tell me heaven is this.

The girl behind the counter was so cute and enthusiastic. When I ordered mine (you can get an endless combination of flavors) with raspberries and chocolate chip cookie dough, she looked up at me and broke into the biggest smile. "My best friend orders the exact same thing all the time!" This made us both laugh, and she served our hot, gooey, glazed tender rolls within five minutes.

Start the disturbing moaning sounds now.

Then it was off to that fantastically weird and cool game store with every manner of collectible toys and games you can imagine. I promised the Earl of Cheddar I would avoid the stuffed animal puppets this time. The last time we were there, I nearly had to be taken out in a straight jacket as I moved from one absurd puppet to the next as they became a vehicle for my twisted sense of humor. But, when I spotted the full body pig puppet...

Its cute little beady eyes were staring at me with such wanton desire to be held and brought to life. 'Babe!" Piggy called to The Earl of Cheddar, "My name is Babe! Don't eat me!" That was when I found myself standing there alone and giggling to myself. And then I turned around, full of more ideas about what Babe had to say, and realized I was practically spitting on someone as I tried to stifle my maniacal giggling - about to touch their shoulder. It looked just like him, the black jacket, but it was a stranger, and I jumped back realizing my mistake. Of course, this only infused the scene with more humor for me as I tried to find my imagined audience who had disappeared in embarrassment.

Next stop, Trader Joe's. There were those last minute things we had to buy for Thanksgiving dinner tomorrow. The place was packed, no surprise, but it was so much fun imagining what it will be like when we get one back home.

Thursday, Thanksgiving Day...

I think I see the wisdom in having Thanksgiving the way we did it this year. We all pitched in. Everyone contributed, and everyone helped clean up afterwards. It all seemed fun, like no work at all. I made the chestnut stuffing, Katie made the mashed potatoes, snap peas, and vegan rice crispy treats. The Earl fixed the Tofurkey and rolls, and Tyler and Allison helped with the clean up. I had never met Tyler until today. He's Allison's boyfriend, and they have been traveling around, working on organic farms and living life. It was great to hear them talk about it. Apparently there are some grand opportunities to work on farms and that, to me, is a lost art that we should all know more about. Most of us are too dependent on others growing our food.

Anyway, after a great meal, we all headed out the door for a long walk (climb) up the road about a half mile or more, to a park where there is a lake, to play some frisbee. How we laughed. Especially when the disc nearly went into the lake and the Earl slid down the foiliage covered bank to retrieve it and was rewarded with yet another one someone else had lost in the exact same place. Katie took loads of photos, a few of which I will add here. I love most the one of Colby and Tyler running down the hill holding hands and laughing! Then it was a glorious downhill walk back at dusk, me asking Allison if she were keeping a journal about her travels. It all seemed so interesting to me, yet to her not so much. Interesting...

We watched some stuff on Netflix and called it a night.

Friday...

Katie went running early while The Earl of Cheddar and I had a Breaking Bad marathon. I must say that this series is the most engrossing, engaging, nail-biting series I have ever watched. And, watching it with him is like something I can't explain. We have so much fun discussing it, pouring over every detail. I don't want it to end.

But, wait! We are going to see Tony today! Yes, my dear friend, of many years, travel companion, fellow surfer, and transport from Florida; Tony The Ripper Rojas! We are meeting him at the skatepark at the Mission at 11 am. Woo hoo! We all jump on BART and head out for the 30 minute journey. Once there, it is like we have been transported to gangster land! Graffiti everywhere, Spanish being spoken at such a rapid pace I can't make out a single word. Buildings painted with murals everywhere, so colorful and bright! Bakeries everywhere... I love it!

A long walk later, we are at the skatepark... an awesome set up with Latino boys skating all over. The Earl drops in, does some fine carving in the bowl, some great moves, but then BAM! He smacks his tailbone in the bottom of the bowl. Oh, he is bummed, as this park is great, and he had just begun, Tony is not even here yet. He rests, the green grassy hills surrounding us on all sides. Then, here comes smiling Tony and his sweet hound, Dee Dee! Hugs all around and we hang out awhile before Tony drops into the bowl and... WOW, is he good! We are all impressed. Katie wants to skate, and does a great job as a beginner. I even jump on, after not riding one in years. Hilarious.

Later, as we walk, Tony and I are discussing our advanced age, and get some good laughs out of it, but man, Tony still has the moves. I used to be obsessed with skating, but after several injuries (broken wrist, water on the knee, etc,) decided to let surfing take over. I like falling on water better.

After this, we all pile into Tony's commie grey van with the red star. We are off to some amazing Chinese restaurant that Katie loves, and are now being highly entertained by Tony's stories about his band and their recent nationwide summer tour. How cool is this? I love it when people live their dreams. We all love you, Tony. This is forever.

The food is off the scale! Holy crap, I never knew Chinese could taste this good. I am ruined now for anything back home, as far as Chinese and Japanese food goes. Thanks, San Francisco.

We have to say goodbye to Tony and Dee Dee. Katie needs to get back to get ready for her photography exhibit tonight at the Actual Cafe. We hug Tony goodbye and we talk about getting a surf trip together in the next few months. Maybe the Nadeau's could join us? We have to do this...

We end up at SCREAM for vegan sorbet (dark chocolate-peanut butter) and then at the Actual Cafe. Katie sold a framed piece, woo hoo! It just so happened to be my favorite; of three pears, their stems intertwined like friends.

It's not really happening. People are just sitting around on their computers, so we leave and go to a second hand store where I find some jeans. Then it's off to Trader Joe's and back home for more Breaking Bad. This has all gone so fast. Tomorrow I leave...

Swell in the water...

Today was surprising. I decided to just paddle out, after I got out early from work around lunchtime. No one was even out on the south side of the pier. I love this time of year, when you pull into the parking lot at mid day and it's nearly empty.

The waves looked rideable, the sun was peeking out now and then, it was warm, and the water looked on the green side with a light onshore wind. Good enough.

A spring suit was perfect. 3.9 at 10 seconds was pretty good, too. I caught some fun ones today. I eventually drifted to the south side where I kept seeing a bigger peak, where one other guy paddled over and we shared the peak. A fun afternoon...

That first hour was such a surprise. I hadn't expected much, and it ended up being pretty good. There was more push to the swell today, and I had to think it was from that low that has developed offshore out in the Atlantic. The only bummer was that I kept thinking about tomorrow's forecast for offshore winds. I will be on a plane to San Francisco...but my friends will score some fun ones!

The Comedy Zone

Sometimes you feel disillusioned, right? What gets you back on your path?

I'll tell you how I got back on mine today.

Surfing this morning with Mark at the pier was pretty hysterical. At one point, he was laughing so hard at one of my charging attempts that he nearly choked on saltwater. I had been sitting way outside. I only wanted the biggest ones. Most all the others were slopping all over and not really breaking hard enough, even at dead low tide. The rogue ones would rear up and smash you down.

Groveling is what I do best.

I had just had one where I dropped in late, and right into the middle of a pack of young rippers. I knew I had better make it or I would take someone out. It must have looked so funny, I wish I had a photo of it. I dropped in late, air dropping with my toes barely on the board, thinking that if I blew it someone was going to get hurt. Probably me, but that would be better than some innocent bystander. I made the drop, but after that I can't recall much. I know I went digging for clams, but came up with nothing except a mug of seawater. It was good for a laugh. I was just practicing for my swan song, which was moments away.

I paddled out farther. After all, I could have caught that last bomb farther out and been set up for at least some type of maneuver, right? Then it came, it felt like it was the biggest wave of the day. I stroked into it, got to my feet, and crap if they weren't all there again - right in my way! All those dots just waiting. I made the drop, and it felt like a miracle. But at the bottom, there was some sort of surge that unleashed all around me and I was thrown down and skipped across the surface like a stone in some sort of hilarious disaster scene that Mark was lucky enough to have a front row seat on.

I came up laughing, thankful I was in one piece, and as I paddled back for more, coughing up water (nature's neti pot!) and laughing like a maniac, I looked over to hear Mark yelling my name with both fists raised in the air. He paddled over and said it looked like I was dropping in at Maverick's! Oh, how we laughed, and then I asked, did you see the end? Oh, yeah, he did, because I have never seen Mark laugh that hard since I have known him.

Wow, it felt good to be back out there again today, the sky clear and blue, the air warm, the water bearable temp-wise and green. I had actually been thinking that maybe it's time for the old girl to slow it down a notch, act her age, why can't I seem to stop? I can't seem to shake this last cold. Everyone says it is because I never rest. Do I really want to go out having a stroke in the water? I suppose it would be the best way to go. Especially if I got a laugh out of someone on the way out.

Hey, Mark, that was fun today! Right after you left, I got the best wave of the entire session and didn't even fall off! And, check it... I looked it up. It was November, 2009, when I first got my Dominator. Two years later, it's still the one and only board I want to ride. I should make a cake.

Cutting the Cord...

In the water again..

Finally, in the ocean once more. It didn't look worth much, but when I got out there it was a nice surprise. Sure it was gray out, skies and water, but the winds were just enough out of the southwest to clean up the peaks rolling through. Tenth street was doing its thing and the water wasn't even that cold. My short-sleeved full 2mm was toasty and warm. The best ones were about shoulder high, and were lining up fairly well, another surprise. It was just two of us at first and then about ten more showed up. It was good to be out in it again...

Surfing on my Bike

Wow, I just could not seem to stop smiling for three days. Or hooting, or screaming, or laughing. I was lucky enough to spend three days camping and trail riding at the Forks Area Trail System in South Carolina this past weekend, and it was EPIC.

I keep seeing so many images in my mind...

There was the full blown fall foliage that I hadn't expected. The reds, oranges, yellows, and bright greens had Whit and I nearly falling off our bikes so many times as we looked up from riding the path. He kept saying "BRILLIANT!" after stopping once more just to look down into the gorges filled with electric colors as we listened to the soft chirping of birds. We trundled down so many trails this weekend that were mind blowing in terms of all out Lord of the Rings fantasy land beauty. The pine needles on the ground in the dark forests, the smooth sun splashed trails that wound up and down and all around, the sunlight filtering through the trees with a light cool breeze breathing all around us...

At one point, I came blasting out of the woods as Sean and Whit stood taking a breather. I had the biggest grin plastered on my face. Sean knew what was coming. I was babbling. I had had a revelation, an epiphany. I had been climbing and climbing and then hit a series of deep rolling dips and rises like a skate park and was pushing it to my limit in terms of speed. It was almost too much for my little cranium to handle. I had started out pumping as I dropped into to dips and rises, gaining more and more speed. Diving into a forest, the damp soft pine needles paved my path. Then I leaned over the handle bars so that I had the sensation of flying.

Yes, this must be it, I thought. When you die, this is what happens. You fly through the beauty of this planet, fly through it, and see, finally see. You will fly through the woods, see the animals, the life, the perfect beauty that is almost too much to bear. You will see it, finally see it.

I came out breathing fast and had to share it, and they got it, they got it, they knew. This was the moment, and the kind that don't come that often, when you realize what life is supposed to be. This was living, this was immersing yourself in nature.

It was cold that first night, 31 degrees. Sean had a tent, I had a tent, and Whit slept in his car. The next night Whit slept under the stars. I can see him in my mind, that next morning, lying supine under the pine trees, in his sleeping bag sound asleep, the lake just beyond, four deer grazing on the bank. We cooked out, made a fire that never wanted to start but eventually did after we had given up on it. I had said I never would go camping again, but this just goes to show that you can never be sure. At the end of it all, I didn't want to come home.

If ever there was something as close to the stoke of surfing, riding this trail is it.

We never had cell phone service, so we were cut off from internet and phones for the duration. When we finally emerged, reality was waiting. There is was, a phone message from someone who is one of my dearest friends. Her father died on Saturday. He had been battling cancer, and they had given him six months.

It felt like someone kicked me right in the stomach at that moment, the nausea overwhelming. It comes all too fast, doesn't it? It comes, it's on it's way, and it's going to take all of us. I like to think that her dad was riding with me at that moment I had my revelation in the woods. Maybe he was making his way somewhere even more mind-blowing... skimming past at that moment, taking that last look over my shoulder, watching it all one last time, and thinking that his time on the big blue marble was one hell of a ride...

Definitely Disappointing

There needs to be a new marker on the surf-o-meter. Definitely disappointing. That's what it was today. If you found a good sandbar, you were one of the few lucky ones. I rode to Middles on my bike, and Mark and Andy drove to New Symrna, since they both had the day off. When we compared reports later, it was exactly the same thing - both places. The bars have been obliterated by the Nor'Easter, making Sean's swell a big bowl of wrong. What a let down, after looking forward to this day for the entire week.

Now I am off for mountain biking and camping for the next three days... with freezing temps forecast for tomorrow night. Me thinks the story will make anyone who reads this blog glad they stayed in their warm comfy bed at home.

Why I love my neighborhood

The winds are still making a mess of the surf. Tomorrow should see cleaner conditions, they say. Today I was outside washing my car, when I heard one of the triplet boys who live across the street call my name, saying good morning. They are so odd, but so sweet. They always greet me and have something nice to say, even if it makes no sense. I smile, and talk awhile. They have had a hard life. The police were outside a few nights back. Fighting with dad again. One of them has run away again. fifteen is such a hard age. He notices I have a cold, and says he hopes I get better.

So, I kept washing the Prius. After a minute or two, I looked up to see that quirky couple walking around the block again. I see them every now and then. They're friendly enough, but the thing is they tend to talk and talk and the more you listen, the more you realize that something is a bit off. So, when I saw that she had a full grown opossum peeking out of her shirt this morning, it wasn't all that surprising, but still, I had to investigate. When it yawned, its teeth looked like a vampire.

Okay, what's up with that? They proceeded to tell me how they had seen him walking across the street, just there, out of my yard, when he was just a baby. They went into some convoluted story about how they had just been listening to Van Morrison and they picked up the baby marsupial and took it home and named him after the singer. Just like you or I would do, right?

Oh, my freaking God, tell me why?

I proceeded to ask the questions anyone would ask. Aren't they wild, and... sorta dangerous? And how do you know anything about them and if they can be pets? Has he been vaccinated? "No", she smiled. How do you know what to do to even keep an opossum, I ask?

"The internet." That's all he said, smiling.

Now, picture them in your mind. She looks to be around 55, him... maybe 40. Nothing wrong with that, sister. If you can make it work, good for you. In my case, it would probably take a whole lot of money, but that's another story. Let's deal with one freak at a time. They always wear these big straw hats. I know it's because they walk all the time and all over town. I've seen them. Maybe she's a trust fund baby. I know two trust fund babies, and envy is the word that springs to mind. But then I would never have had the crazy interesting life I've had if I hadn't had to scrape the floor for everything I have earned.

So, I say more power to you crazies. I am definitely missing a few matches from my matchbook. But, I would never take a possum into my house. I told them my cousin's nickname was "Possum," and that got the biggest smile out of them. Hey, I would rather have people take in an animal and love it then to disregard it as a low life. That reminds me of that opening scene in the episode I watched last night of Breaking Bad, another BEST EVER SERIES in my book. Jesse is waiting on the corner for his homie, yo! They are going to waste the couple that stole their meth and money. Jesse looks down at a bug crawling on the ground and toys with it, smiling. He identifies with it, clearly. Then up walks his homie and the guy laughs and squashes it with his boot.

Who are you in this world? Are you one of the freaks? Clearly, it takes all kinds to make us even half aware of what it's all about.

14 feet at 15 seconds???

I am sure I heard that buoy report last night, or... was I dreaming?

ROAD TRIP!

As we stared out over the grey expanse of a new morning at the pier, there was only one thing that could possibly save the day; a road trip south to escape the cold front that was bearing down on us. There was really no other choice, unless you wanted to just go home and get things done. Mark was out there, scraping around, but the waves would pop up, feather, and then die, the sandbars scrubbed into non-existence. Andy had the day off, I had the day off, so we decided to take a chance. Mark almost got to go with us, but work said no way. I felt so bad for him. I knew how much he wanted to join us. That was the only thing marring an otherwise epic day.

The winds were strong out of the NW, and chances were slim we could outrace the front. But, as we drove, the sky began to clear and the air temps began to rise. Hmm... maybe this wasn't such a bad idea.

By the time we hit the beach ramp, and saw the emerald green waves rifling off in the sun with spray flying off the tops at New Smyrna Beach Inlet, Andy became as excited as a kid at dawn on Christmas morning.

We watched waves peeling off, some close-outs, but when they peeled they were amazing. When I opened the car door and felt the warm air, I knew we had made the right call. I didn't even need my 2mm full with short sleeves, but it was all I had. Andy wore his spring, but nearly came in to take it off. As we paddled out, we were babbling with excitement over the clarity and warmth of the water, and the shoulder to head high green walls peeling off in the sun. The crowd was light, too. What a good call.

Once we got outside, Andy caught one right away and was frothing all the way back outside. I scoped it out for a bit, a local telling me that it was useless to paddle way out the back where you could see bombs going off. I knew that, and thought it was kinda funny that he probably assumed I probably didn't know what I was doing. It seemed to be awhile before I caught one, I wanted just the right one to start the day... but I had to catch up with Andy, who had three by now.

Then a big left came rolling in and I heard Andy cheering me into it. I was in the right spot, but would be dropping in later than I would have liked. I was still getting used to the set up. I took off, the wind and spray buffeting my face, and it held me up just enough to make me take off too deep, but eh, what the heck. I went. I got pitched with the lip, but made it to the bottom and then hung on for dear life. Andy was watching from behind and said it looked epic, big, and peeling off. I was just a bit too close to the white water, though, and never got a good start. I was leaning back and holding on for the entire wave. It moved so fast with me holding on by my toenails, but making it was something in itself. By the end of the ride I was going so fast that I just could not do that limbo any longer and went flying off the back of my board. That Dominator was just too ready to fly after sitting for so long and just left me behind! I was laughing so hard as I paddled back out, and glad Andy hadn't seen it. From his point of view, it had been epic, but I confessed.

Next wave... little did I know it would be the wave that would make my day.

I took off on another good sized left, but this time I was in the spot. I dropped with the pitching lip, but had time to set up at the bottom for a good turn off the top. I hadn't counted on the wind factor, though - and the three guys who were sitting just inside watching and hooting for me. I went off the top and, as I did, I realized the wind had pushed me a bit farther up the face than I wanted and I was dangerously close to being pushed right out off the back of the wave with all of them watching. My moment was now and I did not want to be humilated in front of these capable looking locals. So, I pushed hard, nearly out of the wave completely and popped it back down the face as I heard them hoot. Oh, man. Then there was another wall waiting for me to do it again as I went flying inside on the great green wall. When I finished it, I was in heaven. I knew it had been the best wave I would probably get all day. I even thought about just going in, it had felt that perfect.

As I paddled back out, the same guy that had told me not to bother paddling way outside was just staring and smiling at me as I approached, giving me the shaka sign and saying great wave! Then he asked what board I was riding, and knew all about the Dominator, his friend had one, he said, pointing to him a few yards beyond. I looked over at him and he was smiling, too. It felt like all eyes were on me. It was my moment, for sure. It just felt so weird, like nothing I have experienced in a long time. He asked me what size I was riding, and looked surprised. He asked if I got it at Red Dog, and I said no, Blue Sky, in St. Augustine, and we talked for a bit. Everyone was so nice out there today. It was all like a dream...

We went in after a couple hours, after the wind seemed to be coming up more sideshore, and we found a local place to eat called the Flagler Tavern. That just topped off the day. The sky was blue, we ate on the deck, and the temperature was perfect. We were starving.

Good food, good waves, and a good friend to share it with... how lucky I was today!

The girls get to play with water!