Wednesday, April 06, 2016

FO: Tessuti Ruby Dress

I was really worried that a bustier person like me would look like a Capital A in this Ruby Dress from Tessuti Fabrics, and I was also enchanted by the cutout shoulders.

If you're wondering the same thing, stop wondering and go for it! Just use something super drapey. I added a center front seam because I was working with a weird piece of fabric, but it would be better without it...
I added side seam pockets using the Southport dress pocket pattern piece and technique, and if I hadn't had enough binding to do that cool loop (below) I'd have used the trick Kelli describes in the Roscoe instructions. Those True Bias patterns are good for cool tricks ya'll.

I love the clean clean look and finishing of the bound neck and armholes. I also think I'm pretty snazzy for doing this self-loop with the binding for the neck button.

I lengthened the back an inch or two after hearing reports that the dress was a shorty. I'm not so in love with the hi-lo hem, but I am a fan of a little bit more booty modesty in a more active lifestyle, dontcha know. Nonetheless, if it's windy, there will be exposure.


I'll probably not make more than one of these, because it's so distinctive of a shape, but i HIGHLY recommend it to anyone who likes a free and flying kind of silhouette. #summeriscoming

What's your favorite new pattern? There are SO MANY - share your tips!

Sunday, April 03, 2016

Self care spring break

What does self care mean to you?

It's a hot topic for teachers as we're continually asked to give more time, ideas, financial support to our schools, our students, their families. So how do we refill our own vitality? How do we keep ourselves healthy, strong, and able to face the onslaught of politics and emotion that working with children (or in my case, adolescents) brings?
(Ugh. The dishes. I priced countertop dishwashers. Tbd)

I'm working on figuring it out. This year spring break came and while I had tossed around a few trips and plans, I was so drained that planning was too much. So I booked a couple of keystones, and let the week unfold. 

To start, I found a good therapist. A social worker friend reports that at least half of her work-related stress clients are teachers (or work for Ousd, oof). I'm sure there are statistics, but you can find em yourself. My therapist reminds me that I am worth love, that I am smart and able. These things get worn out of a person.
(Artisanal ice cream is gentrification and expensive and right by my house and school. And it's non dairy so...)

I'm also fortunate to have two body mind therapists-of-sorts in my yoga teachers KK and Abby, who remind me that I am blessed to be an earthling and that my work for myself on this planet is holy and valuable. I went to three of their classes this week. 

So that's the foundation. I suppose church provides those for some (a lot?) of educators. I find church to be another system of oppression, and as I work to break myself and my students out of those, rejuvenation doesn't come that way. 
(I wore a cute dress and played at the art museum with and old and dear friend)

I slept when I wanted. At 1am, 3am, 11pm. And I woke when I wanted. Usually around 9, but once at 6 and ok then! I usually have a massive sleep debt, but I didn't nap like I do when school is on. I enjoyed my days and rested at night like a regular person.

(I polished my silver jewelry; now I sparkle more)

I went outside! but not too much. I kept my step count high :) I wore myself out, just the right amount, with social fun. I went dancing. I went to the best monthly street party anywhere. I painted my toenails and colored my hair. I let the car sit for 3 days straight. I made things- pants for my kid, panties for myself and my hairstylist. A dress for fun, a shirt for an experiment (it failed. They often do). I saw a lot of art. I smelled roses and sweet William and jasmine and wore a forget me not. I ate greens, and fresh fruit, and chocolate. I gave a lot of things away, recycled bags of papers, and got a new purse. I had time to chat with clerks and the kids next door. I laughed, I smiled, I made progress on mid-range plans. I talked to my parents and faraway friends and played online with sewing nerds I think are cool. 
(I played with eyebrow makeup! Haha)

It was a good week. A healthy week. A week of consideration and calm breakthroughs. It's shown me making better self care decisions every day; able to know what I need and how to get it. 

It's so important that we honor ourselves. Damaged people are causing pain out there. How do you keep your batteries charged? How do you fire yourself up, sustainably? How can we encourage each other to keep it up?

 

FO: Luxury lounging, Seamwork Almada robe

I'm sorry for the photos. Let's get that out of the way. I'm trying! photography is a continuing mystery. 

Phew! Now let's talk about this lovely robe, for, as Nicole called it, "my opium life". It's truly a LOUNGE LIFE robe, and that's what I wanted. Marie Kondo tells us not to keep leftover clothes for loungewear, and in my recent mega purge, my bedroom is getting a slow and clean makeover. I need something to wear for it all, right?

Enter Almada. I stalked a lot of double gauze, but couldn't commit, and made it out of [single?] gauze in olive and chartreuse/neon/lime (color people, please educate me). It's like wearing a dry feather, and I love it. It does hang open like shown above, so at some point I'll have to sew in the snap the pattern suggests.

Until then, let's look at the GUTS!

Shown above (on the left) is where the waist tie is stitched to the front. I strengthened it with some fusible interfacting and then added some leftover bias tape over top, in an attempt to camouflage the white white interfacing. Eh. I do think it's worth reinforcing this stitching so the tie doesn't pull the robe fabric apart, but this way isn't the most lovely solution.

When I first tried it on I found that the sleeve innards TOTALLY show when the robe is on. A raw seam (seriously! it was supposed to be just raw. Boo.) was not what I was going for in my #upgrade. So I went nuts.
Madam Clean Seams
I started with bias tape - i had made 300 yards for the front and neck binding, and I started by binding the sleeve/cuff seam with it. Then it was floppy...so I added a fancy decorative stitch. Those things are fun.


I went around the front seam with that same stitch pattern and I just think it's the neatest. Geometic, not frilly, but intricate and fancy-feeling.


Next time I would use two different fabrics, one for the cuffs and tie and one for the body, like I did here. I like how it makes it a little more special. I would make the ties about half as long though, or not interface them - as you can see above and below, the interfaced tie really only needs half a knot to stay in place. Then there are these crazy long rectangles hanging about...but there are NEON GREEN so it's all good.

and I LOVE the way the gauze hangs and moves. Check! Have you made one yet? It's like $3 dude. get at it!

Saturday, January 30, 2016

an idea

i found this in my feed today:
source 

and this in my burda pattern library:
 http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/new-burdaeasy-pattern-zip-up-blouson-jackets

i also have lots of sheers and laces just wondering WTF they're doing sitting in my stash forever...would be a fun party wrap or wedding layer, no? who's getting married!?


Wooly waver jacket: everything can't be a winner.

Fun fact: did you know that nice wool coating fabric can cost $20-30/yard? At that rate, plus the time involved, it seems kinds of inefficient to make a wool coat. Not everyone sews to be frugal, but I do. 

So while I wanted to use up flannel scraps and fur leftovers for parts...i didn't have the important outer layer. I found myself with a fabulous pattern and no fabric to sew it. (see this year's resolution. i am a pattern glutton. we all have flaws ;)
Image result for papercutpatterns.com waver jacket
Luckily, expensive places like cities also have special super bargain places like the East Bay Depot for Creative REuse. Isn't it great that creative is IN THE TITLE? like, don't just use it, make it GREAT, people. 


On a very productive I scored the bundle above for less than $10. excellent pressing tools, 2-3 yards of wool fabric, and that adorable bunny sateen - maybe a lining? Not wanting to lose my thunder, i took the barfy pink home and plunked it in a stew pot with some aqua dye. 
in process, with instagram filter. looks a dream, no?
it turned out ok. I'd prefer the color were more saturated, but it had gotten really cold out, I'd already dyed my fingers once, and i wanted a flippin coat. 


IT went together really easily. YAY! I interlined with leftover flannel bits from various dresses and PJs, used some paracute cord i bought for a long gone BF for the inner drawstring and, my favorite part, reused some gift fur from a dear friend's 2006 christmas gift for a luscious faux fur hood. 



see? it all fit together so nicely! This lining is some tahari stretch satin i thought i would use for lingerie about a year ago. Turns out I don't wear satin pjs and don't really have a satin lounge robe kind of life. You guys. it's good to be honest with yourself. 
my handstiching is getting better....inside the lovely perfect length everything fit together cuff.
anyway, the color's not great on me. 

the hood is 100 pounds.

all the photos with me in em are on my laptop at work (school).

i think i messed up the button placement.

all those layers in the middle make the cinching kinda lumpy.
image stolen from student artwork @ my school. i love it.
something i'm doing makes all of my lower right plackets wonky.

everything can't be a winner. It's the process sometimes. Learning.

tell me about your near misses?


Sunday, January 03, 2016

Goals for 2016: this gets long but not because it's a lot of goals

This year I did a really good job of making clothes I'll wear again and again, from pajamas and undies to jeans and party dresses. 

Stuff I made /top nine in 2015- from bottom- light jacket, swimsuit, jeans, summer dress, pjs, t shirts, and a sick Halloween cape. Not pictured but worn regularly: flannel dress, workout pants, pj variations, kid clothes and swimmers, 500 undies for me and people near by ;). 

Now I'd like to find my next /new /expanded tried and trues to make my wardrobe mega functional and totally me.


This year I have one goal. Beyond continuing to grow my skills and reducing the global impact of getting dressed, I want to go on a pattern fast. I've done pretty well with a fast on fabric, using what I have, I mean, before buying more. I make exceptions for a particular project that I force to the top of the list (my wool coat right now, for instance!), so it doesn't go into the stash hole. I've shopped the same at the reuse shops as regular fabric outlets: very judicious, with a plan, execute that plan. No hoarding! 
I scored this coat-making bundle at the reuse shop and immediately got to dyeing. Put it to work!

It may be trickier for patterns, because buying patterns feels low impact, resource wise, as so many are PDFs. Even more, they have that exciting NEW feeling, and make me feel like I'm supporting the indie sewing industry, which means employment for so many creative women. That's tricky, right? 

I love that these women (and Taylor), are kicking ass and making dollars, but I need to let others do the spending for a minute. 
That sicky pink wool after dyeing, with fur that has been in my closet since xmas 2006. Geez that's a long time! It's interlined with flannel left from my flannel dress and some pj pants. 

On the list, then:
Black Birkin/Kendall skinny jeans, this time in a straight 29. Nail that fit!
Sutton blouse v 1
Another Papercut Alexandria (v2) or Moji (v1) casual pant, especially for hiking. This is the pant I reach for most on the weekends, but it's missing from my wardrobe. 
Finish Waver jacket (in process photo above)finished: here 
Maybe this is the year for a finlayson...? I love how easy and profesh the kid version turned out, I can imagine getting lots of play from an adult edition.
Happy child wears handmade 

Halifax hoodie! (Replacing a threadbare h&m zip up from around 2007?? Frugal fanny, that's me!) Two versions: In $1 mystery fabric and maybe again in a nice one like merino 💓

Try out Cambie dress (I fell for the bday sale 😭) It's built for someone shaped completely different from me, but also seems like a fun dress that could be made in a variety of fabrics to go lots of places/events. Let's see!

Investigate pencil pants. I have the sew over it pattern, the Manhattan trouser, and a burda pattern, but I haven't been able to cut fabric for them. What's that about? I know some of it is body stuff- not wanting to suffer ill fitting pants, worry that I'll cut the complete wrong size...sadness after all that time and fabric and $ invested. 

Watch this space for continued fear and avoidance or a deep dive like I did with t shirts...which got me a go-to I love, and helps me avoid new pattern hysteria😳😁😀. 

Silk blouse, wool twill jacket with flashy insides, excellent denim, sneaky unders, all me made. That, my friends, is a wardrobe. 

How do you stay inspired but not shopping? Please share your sources!

And happy happy happy new year.
Xoxo
Bex 


Monday, December 28, 2015

Shawl collar hack for the Rowan tee

I drafted a lil shawl collar for the Rowan tee, since I love the way it fits but wanted a fancy family event version. 
I'll post a pattern piece for you soon! 
In the meantime, here are the photos my model has allowed. 
I definitely bought that smile by chasing him with the camera. Whatever it takes, sweet boy. 💓