Made in Africa: Lanvin collaborates with Dessin L'Espoire in Swaziland

Clearly, Made in Africa is the new cool, with brands from Yves Saint Laurent to Vivienne Westwood catching on, and now Lanvin. This fall will see the debut of Lanvin's Petite collection (see the cutest photos here) alongside a limited edition of Lanvin-clad dolls handmade in Swaziland by women who work with Dessine L'Espoire (Designing Hope). 

Desinne L'Espoire's 'mission as an NGO is to support people affected by HIV and AIDS' through awareness programmes and economic partnerships. Swaziland has the highest HIV/AIDS prevalence in the world (about 25.9% of adults in 2009, according to this source) and 'more than half of workers in Swaziland's garment industry are living with HIV'.

With the rapid increase in NGOs and social entrepreneurs touting the 'Made in Africa' message, it's easy to fetishize it or dismiss it as a gimmick, but Lanvin's approach is compelling in that a 122 year-old house (Lanvin was founded in 1889) puts its heritage behind a disturbing epidemic in a way that not only sheds light on it, but also contributes to helping those affected by it.

A percentage of the proceeds from these dolls will go to Desinne L'Espoire and each doll will retail for £220.

More information here [Vogue UK].

If you're interested in learning more about the reality of HIV in Swaziland, we've found the following resources:

HIV prevalence among factory workers "50 percent" [PlusNews]

Swaziland's Silent HIV Epidemic [Foreign Policy]

Swazis put life on hold because of stigma [SAFAIDS]

- SLiq

This Just In: ASOS Africa A/W 2011

ASOS Africa A/W 2011

ASOS's Africa range caught our eyes in February 2010 because of their ethical mission (all the pieces are made in Kenya), price points, and their high street approach to Africa-inspired pieces. These days, their pieces are less full-on print on print and more subtle. In fact, several of the pieces don't 'look African' at all - but has that been ASOS's mission and point with this range? We bring this up only because a number of folks took to Twitter some months ago so say the collection wasn't 'African enough', the 'Africa' label was a misnomer, and the range was no longer worth supporting as a result.

The argument about what 'African Fashion' is or isn't will go on for a while to come, but the Made in Africa movement points to the real heart of ASOS Africa's mission - ethical sourcing and production in Africa and 'providing vital employment to underprivileged communities in Kenya'. Their partnership with SOKO Kenya should be wholeheartedly supported and should strike the discerning as something worth replicating across the continent. If Africa holds the key to mass production and artisanship from its sheer size and peculiar skill sets, ASOS Africa is good proof that the continent can deliver if adequately enabled.

Print or no print, we love and support ASOS Africa and SOKO Kenya's mission. The latest range features highlights such as jersey, print pants and quilted, padded pieces - all sophisticated, cool and laidback in that ASOS Africa way we've come to know and love.

Shop ASOS Africa A/W 2011 here.

- SLiq

Look Book: Vivienne Westwood F/W 2011-12 - Shot in Kenya - Ft. Ajuma, Sonnietta & Elsie

Dame Vivienne Westwood visited Kenya in May to oversee the ins and outs of her collaboration on recycled bags and accessories with Ethical Africa (now available here and here). Training, recycled bags, and epiphanies on the real, tangible impact of development and trade ensued (read Vivienne Westwood's diary entry here), as did a prime opportunity to shoot campaign images for Vivienne Westwood's F/W 2011-12 offerings. Here's a closer look at the outcome, shot by Juergen Teller, styled by Olive Gachara, and featuring Kenyan model Ajuma Nasenyana alongside two locally recruited models, Sonnietta Thomas, and Elsie Njeri.

Sonnietta Thomas

Ajuma Nasenyana

This Just In: Suno nominated for CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis of Suno. Courtesy of Zimbio.

Suno arrived on the scene early 2009 with vibrant vintage kanga pieces and a compelling 'Made in Kenya' story. A few years and several remarkably varied and well-received collections later, Suno has joined the ranks of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominees.

Founded in 2003, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund "provides financial support and business mentorship for emerging designers", and three designers of this year's ten (including Altazurra and Pamela Love who were nominated last year, as well as Ohne Titel, and Cushnie et Ochs) stand to win one grand prize of $300,000 and two smaller prizes of $100,000.

According to the CFDA's stipulations, "the ten (10) Finalists are interviewed by and make a presentation of five (5) looks from past, present and upcoming collections to the Selection Committee", which includes Anna Wintour and Diane Von Furstenberg.

The Award Ceremony is scheduled to take place in November and past recepients include Proenza Schouler (2004), South African born hat designer Albertus Swanpoel of Albertus Quartus (2008) and Prabal Gurung (2010).

- SLiq

Quotes courtesy of the CFDA [here and here]

Shop For Less: SUNO Sale

Drawcord wrap dress, available here.

We brought news of Suno's foray into e-commerce in April and we've been stalking their website relentlessly ever since, waiting (not so) patiently for even the slightest sign of a sale. The things we do for you :-) Finally, we spotted some pretty good price drops a little while ago and couldn't wait to share. In even better news, there are a gazillion places to buy Suno online and we spotted several price reductions across the board. Without further ado, happy shopping!

Barneys

Browns

Matches

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

Creatures of Comfort

My Catwalk

Opening Ceremony

Otte NY

Saks

Shopbop

SUNO

- SLiq

Inspired: Louis Vuitton [Resort 2012 Menswear & 3 Others]

Thakoon took a bite out of Masaai plaid (see below) for their F/W '11 collection and Louis Vuitton followed suit for their Resort 2012 menswear collection. Fashion continues its obsession with Kenya - from kanga print, to vibrant beads, and now the Masaai's statement plaid print, and this is by no means Louis Vuitton's first - or last - foray into Africa. The New York Times reported on Wednesday that Kim Jones, Style Director at Louis Vuitton Menswear, cites Africa as a strong influence having spent part of his childhood there, so the Masaai reference shouldn't come as much of a surprise. 

More luxury brands are looking to artisans in general and African in particular to infuse their heritage with crafts, culture, and ethics. Others have continued to turn to Africa for inspiration, pure and simple, and Louis Vuitton has had a number of notable Africa-related moments in recent times:

Many will remember Louis Vuitton's Ghana-must-go inspiration for Spring 2007 - Africa's ubiquitous checkered bag elevated to luxury symbol in the hands of Louis Vuitton:

Also, not too long ago, one Vogue reviewer described Louis Vuitton's Spring 2009 collection as 'Josephine Baker African razzmatazz':

Finally, Louis Vuitton's Core Values campaign signed on Bono and Ali last year and featured a little piece of Africa: A charm made in Kenya by local artisans under the guidance of MADE -

What do Africa and luxury have in common? Quite a bit, apparently.

- SLiq

Photos:

NY Mag

Style

ilvoelv

ghule

Spotlight: Suno NY Resort 2012

Suno's Resort 2012 mood board [via Refinery 29]

Suno's Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty have said a number of times that they're not bound to Kenya's kanga print as the revolving point for their aesthetic, so we weren't expecting much in that regard. The thing with Suno, though, is that it's almost impossible to predict where they'll take print next, so, without further ado, here's what we couldn't have predicted.

Suno's Resort '12 takes a dizzying (the good kind) journey through bursts of Hawaiian inspired print, plaid and floral combi/clashinations, touches of sophistication via silk prints, embellishments (see the last set of photos for proof) and all-round amazingness, really. The charm-like accessories brought another dose of the bold, all suitably offset with plimsolls in a way that's very Suno through and through. 

We hear Soko Kenya will be partly responsible for production of some Suno pieces -- it's always heart-warming to know that while Suno has come a long way since it's kanga-filled days, it hasn't veered much from the original vision of supporting Africa(ns) through trade and economic empowerment. For that, the reasons above, and many more, we'll probably always have an eye out for Suno's unpredictable wonderfulness.

Does this collection do it for you, too?

- SLiq

Images: Style

Made in Africa: YSL's Muse Two Artisinal Recycled Bag

YSL's Muse Two Artisinal Recycled Bag: Textile made in Burkina Faso

Late last year, Prada launched a 'Made In' range, shifting the spotlight of production from Italy to local artisans in Peru, Scotland, Japan and India in its bid to focus on other instances of craftsmanship. If you've followed our Made in Africa observations, you'll already know that it's becoming more popular for designers and brands all over the world to include Africa's plethora of co-ops in production, since they offer the sort of beauty that's ethical, cost effective, and charitable. Let's face it: the 'Made in Africa by a women's co-operative' model, while somewhat over-used (feel free to disagree) has carved its own niche and is here to stay. At least a for a while. The latest well-known entrant? Yves Saint Laurent.

There's a whole page (Page 86) in Harper's Bazaar's April 2011 UK edition dedicated to the eco movement and we were delighted to read that YSL's Stefano Pilati 'enlisted artisans in Burkina Faso to produce an ethical version of the label's bestselling bag using textiles made from recycled plastic bags and woven cotton' [Harper's Bazaar, emphasis ours]. The artisans responsible? Women from the Gafreh Association (supported by Les Filles du Facteur), who work with 'recycled plastic bags collected in different cities and villages of the country', which are then 'cut into thin strips, assembled, woven and transformed into distinctive pieces for the contemporary home and fashion markets' [Sidim]. To be clear, the bags were not constructed in Burkina Faso, but the unique textile used to create a limited edition of 60 of them was, and that's to the credit of these women.

l-r: Awa Sanou, one of Gafreh's artisans; a bag produced by Gafreh

We firmly believe that it'll take the concerted and continuous effort of international and national agencies to develop and sustain the frameworks that allow these types of collaborations to be possible, and it'll take a demand for the Made in Africa product by Africans and non-Africans alike for this model to bring the highest returns for the greatest number of people. It shouldn't be a patchy occurrence - we're asking for a full-blown movement.

Discover some of the women behind Gafreh here, some of their other creations here, and buy YSL's Muse Two Artisinal bag here.

- SLiq

Buy-It-Now: Lalesso Flats, £30

Summertime - heck, anytime - is a good time to add some extra pep to your step with colourful ballet flats. These pairs from Kenya-based brand, Lalesso, were produced by SOKO Kenya (also responsible for the Asos Africa phenom) and retail for 30 pounds online. Shop here for a variety of colours. 

Would you wear print on your feet?

- SLiq

Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" series takes our obsession with "Shopping Africa" a little further. Need chic and cheap pieces and not sure where to look? Eager to include Africa on your shopping list but don't have lots to spare? Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" presents the most fabulous finds on the web, so all you have to do is click and wait for your piece of Africa to make its way to you.

SL Buy-It-Now: One Mango Tree Scarves [$18.20]

Lately we've found it much easier to include Africa in our closets through accessories, and Uganda-based One Mango Tree's scarves are a good place to start if you haven't already. Here's what you're paying for:

Handmade by a group of skilled artisan weavers at Wawoto Kacel Cooperative Society in Northern Uganda, these scarves are made from gorgeous hand-dyed cotton.  The designs are developed by the artisans themselves - a unique pattern that resembles the ikat weavings of Central Asia.

These scarves pack quite the punch, no? Shop an assortment of colours here.

- SLiq

Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" series takes our obsession with "Shopping Africa" a little further. Need chic and cheap pieces and not sure where to look? Eager to include Africa on your shopping list but don't have lots to spare? Shop Liquorice's "Buy-it-Now" presents the most fabulous finds on the web, so all you have to do is click and wait for your piece of Africa to make its way to you.

NEW IN: LEM LEM SPRING 2011

Liya Kebede's Lem Lem Spring collection features ponchos, wraps, dresses, skirts and accessories all hand woven in Ethiopia by locals. We love the casual, slouchy mood, Liya's conscious effort to preserve tradition and art, and the global appeal of simultaneously simple and intricate pieces. Discover and shop here.

- SLiq

Paying Attention: The Telegraph//Into Africa

[Suno. The new face of "Made in Africa"?]

Much has been made of Africamania by everyone from CNN to the New York Times and your friendly neighbourhood low-budget "Afrocentric" editorials (complete with tribal feathers and body paint, naturally). These days, the big conversation is less about an "African aesthetic" and more about the "Made in Africa" phenom (which we're major suckers for at Shop Liquorice. That and e-commerce.) and brands like Suno and Vivienne Westwood who are leaving pockets of economic footprints around Africa. The Telegraph takes you "Into Africa" and through the ins and outs of this potentially unprecedented new movement here. For Shop Liquorice's version of events, catch up on all our Made in Africa posts here.

XO

Who Wore What: Liya Kebede in LemLem

Liya Kebede at A Tribute To The Models Of Versailles wearing Lem Lem Poncho

The first thing that probably comes to mind when one thinks about Liya Kebede is super model - and perhaps all-round super woman comes a very close second. Following a trip back home to Ethiopia in 2007, Liya founded Lem Lem - a label of ethically-produced pieces that keep the tradition of weaving alive in Ethiopia:

Supermodel / actress and World Health Organisation's Goodwill Ambassador for Maternal, Newborn and Child Health, Liya Kebede discovered that traditional weavers in her native country of Ethiopia were losing their jobs due to a decline in local demand for their goods and wanted to do something about it. Recognizing the beauty, quality and historic significance of their work, Liya started Lemlem in 2007 as a way to inspire economic independence in her native country and to preserve the art of weaving...[Lem Lem]

The Handmade Process

Today, Lem Lem's handmade goodness has made its way all over the world and is stocked in several stores and online at Barneys, J.Crew, Les Nouvelles, Lem Lem and Net-a-Porter (coming soon).

Lem Lem's Kalkidan Poncho

At Shop Liquorice, there's a special place in our hearts reserved for brands than not only reference Africa in their work and produce their pieces in Africa, but also brands that preserve traditions and cultures unique to the continent. We're excited about Lem Lem -- are you?

XO

Photos courtesy of:

YBF

Lem Lem

Shop For Less: William Okpo + Suno NY

The definition of "African Fashion" continues to expand to incorporate many, many definitions - from "tribal" and "ethnic" print to a more global all-encompassing aesthetic, to "Made in Africa" as a brand and movement in itself (e.g. Suno NY, Asos Africa), to the conscious incorporation of culture and tradition, and African designers in Diaspora who continue to upturn strict definitions, "African Fashion" is having quite a field day. Not convinced? Opening Ceremony has pieces from Suno NY and William Okpo, the former being predominantly made in Kenya and the latter being the brainchild of two sisters born to Nigerian immigrants and inspired by an "interplay" between "American cultural sensibilities" and an "immigrant's sense of style". Whatever you make of this diversity, we're certain it points to a new trend that will continue to sustain and re-invent itself for a while to come. While you ponder what "African Fashion" means to you, you may want to consider buying one or two Suno and William Okpo pieces from Opening Ceremony's ongoing sale.

Shop here and here.

XO

Made in Africa: Nicole Miller + Cocoki, Rwanda

Nicole Miller's collaboration with Rwanda-based co-op, Cocoki

***

Several buzz words pop up when Africa and Fashion are mentioned in the same sentence. Everything from tribal to global to ethnic and nomad. More recently, we've noticed fair trade, eco-friendly and co-ops pop up every now again. Case in point: earlier this year, it was Rachel Roy and Fairwinds. Then our spotlight moved to Diane Von Furstenberg and Vital Voices. Catherine Malandrino too stocked pieces from South Africa based Monkeybiz Bead Project. Now, we turn the spotlight to Nicole Miller's collaboration with Indego Africa, featuring vibrant bangles made by a Rwanda-based women's co-op, Cocoki. Not only does this collaboration promote the "Made in Africa" movement, economic empowerment and cross-border trade, it's also a brilliant platform to take the work of talented women in a little corner of Africa that much closer to the mainstream. We love.

Get your set of 3 bangles here for $25.

XO

Love: ASOS Africa

[ASOS Africa F/W 2010, available here]

We first brought news of ASOS's foray into Africa to you way back in February and we've kept tabs on it since then. Now, we all know the high street can be quite "free for all" and it shouldn't come as a surprise that multiple appropriations of Africa have reared their heads in recent times. What we love about ASOS Africa, however, is that it's fashion with a conscience in collaboration with SOKO Kenya, a Kenya-based company responsible for sourcing fabrics and production. Take a look at the inner workings of SOKO Kenya in this short video to see what we mean. Support the Made in Africa movement and support brands that make a real difference (especially if they make cool beaded jackets like the one above).

XO

Spotlight: 5 reasons why we love Lalesso's Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

Before we get into the top 5 things we're loving about Lalesso's Spring/Summer 2011 collection, allow us to give you a little background. Founded in 2005, Lalesso is the brainchild of Olivia Kennaway and Alice Heuser - two friends who turned their love for "lesso" (kanga print) into ethically-produced made-in-Kenya pieces that have found love all over. Their latest collection is high on our wish list for the following 5 reasons:

i) Lots of pretty patterns printed on 100% natural viscose and transformed into loose, something-for-everyone silhouettes.

ii) It's made in Kenya (by Soko Kenya, also responsible for ASOS Africa) by Kenyans, thus creating jobs and improved living standards for locals :-) Yay ethical standards and fair trade :-)

iii) We've found Lalesso's prints interesting in the past but the pieces in this collection are significantly more sophisticated and charming, including the solid blacks and whites.

iv) It's so nicely shot (in Kenya!) and accessorised (with pieces from a collaboration with Jennifer Kinnear; also made in Kenya!). Watch it all come to life in this accompanying video.

v) Lalesso's price points are usually super pocket-friendly and when the collection debuts in November, we'll more than likely be indulging in a piece or two! Enjoy some of our favourites from the collection below:

                  

Very fabulous!

See the entire collection here.

XO

LOOKBOOK: Suno Resort 2011

Made in Kenya brand Suno NY warmed all our hearts with their kanga-filled debut collection. Nowadays, they're mixing and matching and creating the most unfussy clothes in the most show-stopping colours and combinations. We don't know how Suno does it season after season but here they are again causing quite the scene. The splattered paint motif, graphic prints and stripes done in varied lengths and shapes are pure fun and joy. We're sure we'll be loving Suno long time.

Interestingly, they've used head wraps in all their collections to date and we quite like their inclusion here and their new hair adornments. Oh, and cute model!

Catch up on past posts here.

XO

Photos courtesy of Style