Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

9:40 AM Penedão 0 comments
Dave McGuire <mcguire@lssmuseum.org>: Jul 23 07:04PM -0400

Hi folks, I'm looking to identify what I think is a transistor, in a
TO-72 package (TO-18 with four leads), in an old Victoreen radiation
survey meter. The number is "ITS 30487". It's also marked "7736" which
I assume is a date code.
 
Can anyone tell me what this is?
 
Thanks,
-Dave
 
--
Dave McGuire, President/Curator
Large Scale Systems Museum
New Kensington, PA
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jul 23 11:50PM -0400

On 2023-07-23 19:04, Dave McGuire wrote:
 
>   Can anyone tell me what this is?
 
>                Thanks,
>                -Dave
 
Probably an internal part number. BITD transistors were commonly marked
with customer part numbers. (Around 1982, I was working in a group of
RF engineers, and a lot of the parts available for us to use had cryptic
part numbers like that.
 
I assume that one of the leads is connected to the case (the usual
situation).
 
If it's the front end of a proportional counter, it might be a FET such
as a 2N4117A JFET or a 3N163 MOSFET. For a Geiger counter, it would
probably be something a bit more robust such as a 2N2222.
 
If none of the leads is connected to the case, it could be something
less common, such as a dual-gate FET. I used to use a lot of 3N201s in
that package.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

9:40 AM Penedão 0 comments
hubops@ccanoemail.com: Jul 20 12:40PM -0400


>Sorry it didn't work out.
 
I got the new Sony working - except for getting TV box remote
to work with it.
The new TV was quite-something - the initial setup involved a
series of " Terms and Conditions " from Master Google !
- inescapable, no option to opt out, sheeesh ..
It makes me afraid to use the TV's wifi !
John T.
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Jul 20 10:40AM -0700

> If it's any consolation, there's a high mortality rate on the first few most people do, and no, there's no coming back from any damage if the internal glass layer gets fractured. Even we pros crack one here or there.
 
> The single biggest reason displays get cracked is that tiny misalignment between the display and the four corner guides. I not only inspect by eye through my opti-visors but run my fingers over with my eyes closed to feel that the screen is indeed below grade on the guides. That's why I do the top pull of the display on most units so I can be *sure* the display is nestled down and below grade before the outer mask goes back. Some (like RCA, Proscan, some Elements, etc.) bond the display to the plastic channel so it A) won't move and B) is easier to remove by pulling the back pan. LG doesn't bond the display to the guides so I do those by pulling the display from the outside/top.
 
> Sorry it didn't work out.
 
This insight/information is invaluable - I wish I knew this when I tried to repair my 55" Samsung. Wrestling a 55" panel back into the frame is quite a challenge.
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Jul 20 10:55AM -0700

> - inescapable, no option to opt out, sheeesh ..
> It makes me afraid to use the TV's wifi !
> John T.
 
The LG TV replacement I got for my Samsung had a similar terms and conditions section...actually, a number of them. It makes for interesting (and long) reading. For the LG, one basically gives LG the OK to do anything they want in terms of monitoring and harvesting data from your TV. IIRC, I was able to decline everything. Not sure how I'll handle sw updates. Probably on a usb stick. I was also able to turn off the WIFI. The only thing I have plugged into my tv is the Amazon firestick which I am sure they use to see what I watch on Netflix, but at least they arn't watching everything on my TV. A few years ago LG got slapped with some big fines for not disclosing what all they were harvesting from the TV so I'd like to think they cleaned up their act.
 
The whole TV connected to the net issue is bass-ackwards. The mfg position is that the TV will be plugged into the net (one way or another) and all the interfaces go through the manufactures software. Instead, it should be that the unit is not configured for the net and the user can choose to enable it initially, or disable it whenever they want.
j
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

9:40 AM Penedão 0 comments
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 20 09:19AM -0700

> Live & learn.
> Thanks for your advice just the same.
> John T.
 
If it's any consolation, there's a high mortality rate on the first few most people do, and no, there's no coming back from any damage if the internal glass layer gets fractured. Even we pros crack one here or there.
 
The single biggest reason displays get cracked is that tiny misalignment between the display and the four corner guides. I not only inspect by eye through my opti-visors but run my fingers over with my eyes closed to feel that the screen is indeed below grade on the guides. That's why I do the top pull of the display on most units so I can be *sure* the display is nestled down and below grade before the outer mask goes back. Some (like RCA, Proscan, some Elements, etc.) bond the display to the plastic channel so it A) won't move and B) is easier to remove by pulling the back pan. LG doesn't bond the display to the guides so I do those by pulling the display from the outside/top.
 
Sorry it didn't work out.
hubops@ccanoemail.com: Jul 20 12:40PM -0400


>Sorry it didn't work out.
 
I got the new Sony working - except for getting TV box remote
to work with it.
The new TV was quite-something - the initial setup involved a
series of " Terms and Conditions " from Master Google !
- inescapable, no option to opt out, sheeesh ..
It makes me afraid to use the TV's wifi !
John T.
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