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J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:18PM -0500 On 1/27/20 1:52 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Rubber stamp pad refill ink should work. It would not do to have the > stamp pad dry out prematurely. > <https://www.staples.com/stamp+pad+ink/directory_stamp%2520pad%2520ink>   Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> > <https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> > etc...   I appreciate these, but the problem is that they are expensive for just tiny amounts. The hope was to try this unit out for a week to make sure it works, then put it up for resale. I suppose if I have no choice, I'll have to go this way though.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 30 05:26PM In article <r0v34e$gab$1@dont-email.me>, none@none.non says... > Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little > triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although > the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   I think you might have to wet the tip to get the flow started. Assuming you can swing the pen away from the drum, just touch the tip with a cotton bud or similar wetted with a drop of ink and swing it back immediately. Assuming it is all clean...   Mike.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:31PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:26 PM, Mike Coon wrote: > you can swing the pen away from the drum, just touch the tip with a > cotton bud or similar wetted with a drop of ink and swing it back > immediately. Assuming it is all clean...   Interesting, I'll try that today and report back. Thanks.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:37PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:31 PM, J-J wrote:   > Interesting, I'll try that today and report back.  Thanks.   >> Mike.   Well, the good news is that the ink wasn't dry. I moistened the end of a cotton swab, then touched it to the end of the reservoir and ink immediately started flowing. Moved the reservoir tip back against the drum. Now just waiting on time.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 30 09:47AM -0800 >Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little >triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although >the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   Does the instrument work with genuine barograph recording ink?   What are you using for paper? The real barograph paper is rather absorbent. My closest approximation to a substitute was 20 lb inkjet paper. The common universal variety, that does both inkjet and laser printing is clay coated and will not absorb the ink. Inkjet paper mostly worked, but my results were not very good.   I did some Googling and skimmed some old weather station manuals and books to see if there were any clues as to how to make my own ink. I did find some people online who have done it, but all of them are selling the ink and probably will not divulge their formulation. I haven't had time to search the patents pages. I suspect you might find something there. I can help, but I won't have time for a week or three.   >tiny amounts. The hope was to try this unit out for a week to make sure >it works, then put it up for resale. I suppose if I have no choice, >I'll have to go this way though.   You haven't provided a number which you consider expensive. $8 for a 10ml bottle of ink from Metcheck (plus shipping) is not a huge investment. I think you'll find that the 10 ml bottle will last several years. The recorder takes about 1 drop of ink from an eye dropper to fill. That's about 20 drops per ml or 200 drops per bottle. If your recorder runs for a week, and one drop lasts for a conservative 2 weeks (based on my experience), that's: 2 * 200 / 52 = 7.8 years of operation or about $1/year in ink.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:56PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:47 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >> triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although >> the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   > Does the instrument work with genuine barograph recording ink?   I have no idea. I picked it up at a local estate sale, so wasn't sure it even worked. However, both the timing and barometric pressure are correct, so the biggest hurdles out of the way. There was a red ink track on the barographic chart that was taped on it, but that's all I knew about the ink and not whether or not it worked. I did find out that whoever had it was using the wrong chart with the wrong ranges, however.   > paper. The common universal variety, that does both inkjet and laser > printing is clay coated and will not absorb the ink. Inkjet paper > mostly worked, but my results were not very good.   A gentleman told me that he uses 11x14 glossy photo paper for his continuously, prints his own charts, and gets excellent results. I don't have any charts other than the one that was already on the unit that had the red trace. If nothing else, I could continue using that for now.   > haven't had time to search the patents pages. I suspect you might > find something there. I can help, but I won't have time for a week or > three.   Well, I won't try selling the unit until I have verified that I can get a couple week's worth of correct traces first, so it will just sit as I try different things. The way I have verified it working so far is taking a series of camera shots, one every 30 minutes, then verifying the pressure and time each day after image review. In that way, so far, so good.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:33PM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:18:11 PM UTC-5, J-J wrote: > >> suggestions appreciated.   > > Sorry. I haven't tried replacing the stock ink well and have no plans > > on trying to do so.   Stamp pad ink has clay in it to help keep the face of the stamps fairly flat as they wear down.   I would look for ink made for reinking printer ribbons. It has no abrasives that thicken it, and it dries slowly. It was used on dot matrix & daisywheel printers along with typewriters. I used to reink black ribbons but that was 25 years ago. that ink is oil based, unlike the ink for modern printers with alcohol or other thinning agents.

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 31 07:40PM +1100 >electronic rotating drum. On the drum is taped a chart and, in >combination with a "pen" (of sorts), barometric pressure is recorded. >After a week, the charts are removed and replaced with a fresh one.   I have one that records barometric pressure, temperature, and humidity, and the drum is clockwork.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 31 11:01AM -0500 Ok, an update. Unfortunately, here's what happened after trying an oil based ink from Staples. It almost seems like there was a "hemorrhage" of sorts, then almost nothing (in fact, I didn't even realize there was any trace at all until uploading the photo... I did turn the drum a day ahead to get past the huge ink spot):   https://imgur.com/a/GcYaO8c   So, I guess it boils down to the incorrect ink, incorrect paper, or both. For the chart, I printed my own on standard 8.5x14 printer/ typing paper. I did back the paper with two pieces of packing tape just in case a spot like the one shown appeared so at least it wouldn't stain the drum.   I'm just not going to be able to get away with testing this thing for under $10, am I?

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:43PM -0800 > http://www.berktree.com/ritter-355-minor-surgery-light-8-.html I was told that it was between me and the dumpster. One went to me, one to our Vet.   > This will involve a complete re-design of my Radio Room - together with a major Culling-of-the-Herd. And, since the house was built in 1890, I will have to be very clever with the installation. The thing weighs 62 pounds and the mount needs to be dead-level.   > Not a bad task to be given.   Have fun, Peter but be careful. :)   I am replacing the old lights on my bench with LEDs They are the old four tube fixtures used in drop tile ceilings. I am gutting them and converting them to LED. They were OK when I installed them 20 years ago, but the quality of light went way down when they switched from 40W to 34W tubes. They won't light below 50F. and they have more flicker than the older tubes.   Harbor freight has some fixtures with the LEDs on sale for $20 right now for people who don't want to modify existing fixtures. Rural King farm stores have some, as well. Theirs are enclosed, unlike the ones at Harbor Freight.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:26PM -0800 On Wednesday, January 29, 2020 at 12:08:07 PM UTC-5, amdx wrote: > suggest the modem/router could be the problem. > Computer shows speeds of 5GBPs to 38GBPs. Cable guy blames slow speed > of the computer on the computer.   Those packages are sold as 'Up to' speeds, not guaranteed speeds.   38 Gigabytes per second? REALLY?

Klay Anderson <mailserver.cctv@gmail.com>: Jan 30 09:16AM -0800 So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 30 10:34AM -0800 On Thursday, 30 January 2020 17:16:47 UTC, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   Silicone, soap, vegetable oil, maybe rubber-safe red grease. No idea which is best. If you're snapping the pipe you might be cutting too deep in one go. I don't know if warming it slightly would help.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 30 01:00PM -0600 On 1/30/20 11:16 AM, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler > system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry > alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack > the plastic. Silicone?   K-Y Jelly. Water based lubricant.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:49AM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-5, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   Three things:   a) warm the pipe. Even a few degrees will make a large difference. Ideally, you will want the pipe to be just below the plastic stage, but unless you have a "bending box" don't try this at home. About 100F is close enough for your purposes. Anything below about 60F, it will be very brittle.   b) If you run lubricant over the pipe while cutting - such as with a Ridge Cutter - there will be no issues.   c) And if you never (repeat, NEVER) will need to use solvent fittings on that pipe, good old Vaseline will do the trick nicely.   Then, there is the obvious: Cut slowly. Cutting too fast overheats the pipe, and if you overshoot into the plastic stage, all you will do is make lots of scrap. Use only (repeat, ONLY) Schedule 80 or Schedule 120 pipe. Schedule 40 pipe is too thin to take a safe thread and also withstand any level of operating pressure. Did I mention: Use ONLY SCHEDULE 80 pipe, or better.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Jan 30 11:50AM -0800 On Thu, 30 Jan 2020 13:00:58 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> the plastic. Silicone?   >K-Y Jelly. >Water based lubricant. Yeah, K-Y is good for screwing. Sorry. I couldn't help myself. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:59AM -0800 > Yeah, K-Y is good for screwing. Sorry. I couldn't help myself. > Eric   But not for the stated purpose. Not enough persistence. When done in the field, contractors really prefer to use a Ridge Cutter for PVC or CPVC pipe.   https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/full/Z_J2L0fo5oy.JPG   Somehow, I don't think the OP wants to invest at that level, unless there is a great deal of "screwing" to be done....   Did I mention: Schedule 80 or 120 pipe only?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:23PM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-5, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   I had to thread some 1" Schedule 80 dry. No problems, other that I couldn't find anyone with a handle fot that large die when I needed it, so they were cut by hand. Don't force it. I did a quarter turn, backed the die off to clear the treads and took another pass until I had what I needed. I was making mounts for some GPS antennas for frequency and time standards. I had to pole mount them to clear a metal roof.

Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 30 01:14PM -0500 > If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Ok, today, I have my hands on the borrowed unit. The kind soul who loaned it said to be prepared to shell out $50 if I end up "breaking it". Since they seem to go for well over that online, this isn't an end all, but I still want to be as careful as possible.   I think I'm going to start with my broken one by taking pictures of the components side and then the board side. I may try superimposing them together in Photoshop. It might make not only troubleshooting easier, but I *may* be able to draw a schematic later. Also, I shouldn't have to disassemble his at all, just readings from the underside once I know what is what.   At some point, I will post these images on imgur.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:54AM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote:   So far, you are following a good path!   Best of luck with it!

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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 30 12:28AM -0800 On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 01:52:27 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > When I was a kid growing up in Los Angeles in the late '50s > and early '60s, we'd have "ozone days". > School was canceled. It hurt to take deep breath.   At the risk of stating the obvious, everything is toxic in excess.     > Peter is right, you are piece of work. > You consistently ignore facts and continue to argue.   on the contrary, until facts are established I'm likely to have more knowledge re ozone than you. Too many folk are naive about medical info.     NT

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Jan 30 08:38AM > When I was a kid growing up in Los Angeles in the late '50s > and early '60s, we'd have "ozone days". > School was canceled. It hurt to take deep breath.   I remember first time I drove down into LA basin from High Desert. Ozone smell very strong.   Greg

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 29 05:15PM -0800 > Not a bad task to be given.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   My heart bleeds for you! I could use the light on my work bench if you decide it is of no use...(ha!)   John ;-#)#

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 29 11:08AM -0600 I don't know where I left off in this sad tale, but just an update. Not sure I want any advice, because I don't have all the numbers! I'm sure the order of some of the details are mixed up.   Neighbors has buffering on his 1 yr old Samsung 4K TV while watching on NETFLIX. First cable guy left after changing one barrel connector, he did many speed tests and the best he got was 70MBPs, with a 100MPBs service. He suggest the modem/router could be the problem. Computer shows speeds of 5GBPs to 38GBPs. Cable guy blames slow speed of the computer on the computer.     Neighbor bought a New Netgear C7000v2, and connected it, called the cable company (Comcast) and they could net recognize the modem/router. The called Netgear trying to resolve the problem and then after an hr on the phone they hung up, we were on hold at the time. Neighbor went and bought a second router with a separate modem. He did manage to get that to work but it was also slow, even with a ethernet connection. New "highly experienced" cable guy comes. Though he spends about 3 hrs at the house, and reboots everything and reinstalls any info needed in to the original Modem/router "Netgear C7000" and the Samsung TV, (UN65NU7100FXZA) While testing with his phone he manages to get 100MBPs on a few occasions, and much less (under 50) on many other occasions. Speedtesting on the TV and the maximum he ever got was 32MBPs, and many tests under that.   Also cable guy says call NetGear and have them combine 2.4 and 5GHZ and the TV will work better. HUH!   Cable guys leaves, without, as far as I'm concerned fixing the problem.   OK even so, my neighbor calls Netgear to combine his 2.4 and 5GHz They tell him the Netgear C7000 was made in 2016 and they will not cover that, he can but a 1 yr service agreement for $138 or 2 yr for $220, he gets pissed and raises hell with them and they hang up. When he gets off the phone, his internet is out. So he calls Netgear back, gets a new person, explains it all and the rep turns his internet back on. Now that really sucks.   Then the cable guy finds that on Samsung TV, 5GHZ is non functional and says the problem is the wifi card is bad on his TV. Cable guy also said that 2.4GHz wifi will not do 100GBPs, my info is 2.4GHz will work at 450MBPS and even higher under best conditions.   Neighbor calls Sansung trying to get them to fix the 5GHz wifi and they UNcombine the 2.4GHZ/5GHZ combine. That will fix your problem, We do it all the time.     Now through all this, wife/girlfriend whats to rearrange the furniture. So, we run a new coax to the corner where she wants the TV. Since the TV router is in the back room we move the router out to the TV room where almost all of the above tests were run.   The next step is to run one more cable from outside and end it an the same box of the new cable just run. One will be internet and one will be antenna. Now the modem/router will be next to the TV, and the TV will have an ether net connection to the router/modem.   Update next week.   Mikek

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"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 29 06:39AM -0800 Some may know that part of my job involves the closing and mothballing of a major teaching hospital, of which the physical plant is every bit of 50 years old, or more.   Just the other day, a steam line blew, flooding a basement storage room with condensate - undetected for a week or three. Mold. In this room were stored two (2) Midmark Ritter 355 OR lights, sealed in their mold-ridden, but new boxes.   http://www.berktree.com/ritter-355-minor-surgery-light-8-.html I was told that it was between me and the dumpster. One went to me, one to our Vet.   This will involve a complete re-design of my Radio Room - together with a major Culling-of-the-Herd. And, since the house was built in 1890, I will have to be very clever with the installation. The thing weighs 62 pounds and the mount needs to be dead-level.   Not a bad task to be given.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 10:41AM -0800 On Tuesday, 28 January 2020 15:37:22 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > On 1/28/20 8:16 AM, tabbypurr wrote: > > The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.   > Maybe if you had read past the title.   The 'how is ozone harmful' section is a fair way past the title

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 11:32AM -0800 > The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.   When inhaled, ozone can damage the lungs. Relatively low amounts can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath and throat irritation. Ozone may also worsen chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections. People vary widely in their susceptibility to ozone. Healthy people, as well as those with respiratory difficulty, can experience breathing problems when exposed to ozone. Exercise during exposure to ozone causes a greater amount of ozone to be inhaled, and increases the risk of harmful respiratory effects.   >snip<   Ozone is a toxic gas with vastly different chemical and toxicological properties from oxygen. Several federal agencies have established health standards or recommendations to limit human exposure to ozone. These exposure limits are summarized in Table 1.   >snip<     That is "iffy"? You are, truly, a 'piece of work'.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bilou <bilou@sfr.fr>: Jan 28 08:45PM +0100 On 26/01/2020 02:52, J-J wrote: > a standard ballast.  How would I go about calculating incandescent size > and capacitance?  In the video, he is using 20 uF, but I think that's > for a much larger bulb if I'm not mistaken.  Thanks. The capacitor is here to correct the power factor of the ballast. For a test it is not necessary. For a 125W lamp it is an 8 µF. I used one of those lamps for lighting in the early ages of amateur video. It took several minutes to reach normal brightness. Today with LED they are useless. Even with their envelope intact those lamps are not designed to be looked at at close range . Use of sun glasses is a good idea.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 05:09PM -0800 > Ozone is a toxic gas with vastly different chemical and toxicological properties from oxygen. Several federal agencies have established health standards or recommendations to limit human exposure to ozone. These exposure limits are summarized in Table 1.   > >snip<   > That is "iffy"?   It reminds me of the dihydrogen monoxide gag, where a useful substance (water) is described as if it were a terrible killer that should be eradicated. It's like saying floods kill people in India every decade so we should not have tap water. It relies on the reader's lack of knowledge of the subject.     > You are, truly, a 'piece of work'.   I think that says more about you than me.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 07:52PM -0600 > It reminds me of the dihydrogen monoxide gag,   But we're not talking about dihydrogen monoxide. We're talking about ozone which does indeed have serious health effects. When I was a kid growing up in Los Angeles in the late '50s and early '60s, we'd have "ozone days". School was canceled. It hurt to take deep breath.   Peter is right, you are piece of work. You consistently ignore facts and continue to argue.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 29 04:29AM -0800 Jeff:   I have come to the conclusion that no reasonable person should stand in the way of any individual whose heart is set on earning a Darwin Award.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 28 10:31AM -0800 On 2020/01/27 3:41 p.m., John-Del wrote: > I have one of these old timers and the bar sweep and color sweep section isn't working. Strangely, there are color bars over the dot and cross hatch patterns which I don't recall being a normal situation. All the switches are clean and tight.   > Anyway, I have the full owner's manual that includes maintenance and calibration instructions, but no actual schematic.   > Does anyone have a schematic of the 500 generator board and parts layout for the same board? This is the only board where the component legends are not silk screened on the board, and there are at least 12 ICs - all 16 pins each, most of them the same number.   I'm looking at restoring the same device, and am also hunting for the schematics.   I do have a PDF of the VA48 Speed Test Set-Up Booklet and would be happy to trade that for schematics...(or simply upon being asked nicely)   On the other hand I see these selling on eBay for under $100 including shipping - vs the VA62 which is the updated version for not much more and I'm not sure I want to spend the time on it...especially as I already have the Sencore 1225 which is the most advanced of their monitor analyzers...   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 28 01:20PM -0600 On 1/27/2020 5:41 PM, John-Del wrote: > I have one of these old timers and the bar sweep and color sweep section isn't working. Strangely, there are color bars over the dot and cross hatch patterns which I don't recall being a normal situation. All the switches are clean and tight.   > Anyway, I have the full owner's manual that includes maintenance and calibration instructions, but no actual schematic.   > Does anyone have a schematic of the 500 generator board and parts layout for the same board? This is the only board where the component legends are not silk screened on the board, and there are at least 12 ICs - all 16 pins each, most of them the same number.   You might try asking on the forum. > http://www.videokarma.org/   Mikek

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 28 01:38PM -0600 On 1/28/2020 1:20 PM, amdx wrote:   > You might try asking on the forum. >> http://www.videokarma.org/   >                      Mikek   Oh, I found a post asking for the VA48 schematic. It could even be you, first name is John! No response. :-( Mikek

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 28 01:00PM -0800 On 2020/01/28 11:38 a.m., amdx wrote: > It could even be you, first name is John! > No response. :-( >                             Mikek   Could be indeed!   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 28 02:31PM -0800 Yeah, that was me...   BTW, if anyone needs any service for the VA62, *that* I have. Everything.   I technically own two VA48s now. Yep. I asked my buddy if he still had his manual and he said just take his VA48. I don't need two and I'd rather repair the one I have now.   Worse case I'll take the second one and compare waveforms between them, assuming his working fine..

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 28 02:45PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 1:31:45 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."       I have a few pages someone scanned, but the generator board is chopped up. Some of it is usable for some of the interconnections are not. I'll email over what I have.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 28 05:15PM -0600 On 1/28/2020 4:31 PM, John-Del wrote:   > BTW, if anyone needs any service for the VA62, *that* I have. Everything.   > I technically own two VA48s now. Yep. I asked my buddy if he still had his manual and he said just take his VA48. I don't need two and I'd rather repair the one I have now.   > Worse case I'll take the second one and compare waveforms between them, assuming his working fine..   I did some searching and didn't come up with any leads other than one post saying he got the schematic from Sencore 10 years ago for $20, but was sure what it would cost you today. Mikek

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 28 03:56PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 6:15:08 PM UTC-5, amdx wrote: > post saying he got the schematic from Sencore 10 years ago for $20, but > was sure what it would cost you today. > Mikek       I called Sencore, and they no longer support legacy items.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 28 04:22PM -0800 On 2020/01/28 2:31 p.m., John-Del wrote:   > BTW, if anyone needs any service for the VA62, *that* I have. Everything.   > I technically own two VA48s now. Yep. I asked my buddy if he still had his manual and he said just take his VA48. I don't need two and I'd rather repair the one I have now.   > Worse case I'll take the second one and compare waveforms between them, assuming his working fine..   Ah, I have also posted on videokarma so we are both right   http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?p=3220162#post3220162   Let's see if the schematics turn up!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 28 05:37PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 7:22:40 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:   > Ah, I have also posted on videokarma so we are both right   > http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?p=3220162#post3220162   > Let's see if the schematics turn up!   Check your email...

Peter X1 <ptro@xs4all.nl.invalid>: Jan 28 08:51PM +0100 > I had searched the web for a source about a year ago.   > Does anyone know where I can get a schematic?   > Thank You in advance, John   Guess this is the stripped/desk version of the 200XLT handheld. Manualslib has a service manuals for the the 200XLT   -- Kind Rgegards,   Peter OXzilla

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 08:51AM -0800 I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.   https://www.teslaboys.com/Plasma/PlasmaPower/index.html   http://amasci.com/tesla/sstesla.gif   ...of dozens of possibilities.   If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 28 11:58AM -0500 > If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   That was my thought (new flyback supply) if I couldn't get the current one working. The flyback is a smaller one and reminds me of the kind used in portable TV's of the past. I may try taking readings of the HV in the borrowed unit as I have a HV probe, but from experience this may or may not be successful depending on how much the probe loads the circuit.   I'm going to have to take resistance readings of the flyback in the borrowed unit and then compare them with mine.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 09:32AM -0800 ... this group exists to teach people the hard way of doing things - rather than the correct, effective or efficient way.   Anon.   a) Verify the flyback as correct. This can be done cold with simple resistance readings. b) Verify the power-transformer. This can also be done cold with simple resistance readings. c) Build a new power-supply - looks like about US$10 worth, including the heat-sink. Less transformers, of course, if needed. d) Even both transformers should be able to be had for less than US$20.   If you start screwing around with the borrowed unit, you may have two dead devices on your hands. By your own admission, you are not a highly experienced expert in these things, so I am suggesting you err on the side of caution.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 28 01:58PM -0500 > If you start screwing around with the borrowed unit, you may have two dead devices on your hands. By your own admission, you are not a highly experienced expert in these things, so I am suggesting you err on the side of caution.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Good points, thanks. Once upon a time, I had a nice Tek scope, but that was over 20 years ago. Resistance readings will have to do.   The good news is that I have all the flyback parts in drawers, including small flybacks, in the event I decide to build a new flyback supply.   By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I believe this was line powered. Ouch!

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 11:24AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote: > By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I > believe this was line powered. Ouch!     Line-powered to the flyback - which isolates as well.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 10:40AM -0800 On Tuesday, 28 January 2020 15:32:31 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > On 1/28/20 8:12 AM, tabbypurr wrote: > > And yes, an easy fix it is.   > And what was that?   just an o/c connection, and the cook switch contacts needed a clean.

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Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 28 11:29AM -0500 Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or two, and maybe a timer.   Specifically, it is called the "Smirnoff Tempest Bar Glorifier" made in Korea for Neu Solutions. Unfortunately, they haven't been made in nearly 20 years.   Does anyone know of a service manual and/or schematic for this device? I'm having no luck googling for it.   Fortunately, I am going to be able to borrow a working unit. If anyone wants to roll up their sleeves and help me troubleshoot using the working one as a template, please share. I'd be more than willing to post pictures of the circuit board, components, etc.   I think the first thing I will do with the working unit is take resistance readings of all components while off and discharged. Then, while on, take voltage readings of the same. I don't have enough experience to try reverse engineering a schematic which is why it would be oh so helpful to find one from the manufacturer.   Any information provided would be welcome. I'd really like to get my broken one back in working order again! Tips, measurements, etc welcome.   Thanks in advance, Tempy

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Jan 28 08:32AM > are generally worthless.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I have seen long term damage, an example, ozone fish tank bubbler. Damaged varnish off back wood wall. Short tern cleansing I have not seen any signs. I have two ozoners, not the air fresheners. After 1 hour turned off, a room will have a cleansed smell, no odors. Odors can reseep out of wood etc. and may have to do again later. Sunlight creates ozone cleaning, and my mothers clothes dryer ozone bulb turned the wash into smells like on clothesline smell.   Greg

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 06:16AM -0800 > Further to this, so-called "air cleaners" based on ozone are very similar to bug-zappers. They do not work, they can (and often do) cause harm and are generally worthless.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 09:37AM -0600 > The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.   Maybe if you had read past the title.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 27 11:20AM -0600 > https://ibb.co/DWhZWKR > https://ibb.co/r2HWP7j   > The thing is o/c. It looks like a simple nonelectronic one, likely an easy fix if I work out how to open it!   I don't know how to get into it, but here's how that style works. Very simple, but advanced thinking went into it. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSTNhvDGbYI I you don't want to hear about Latent heat of vaporization and boiling water skip to 4:40.   Mikek

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 27 11:59AM -0800 > http://www.buffalo-appliances.com/media/manuals/exploded%20diagram%20j300.pdf   that looks like it pretty much. I couldn't read the brand in Chinese.   > Looks like some sort of snap-fit system. Are those black dots on the feet holes, or little rubber bits? If holes, you may be able to release the feet through them.   holes. The feet are integral with the base, nothing to remove. (I'll recheck that when I can.)   > Landfill, or not, I expect that you will find replacement with a more serviceable model to be the expedient choice.   There's really nothing wrong with it other than there being something wrong with it :) It may happen, but if I can open it it should be an quick easy job from then on.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 27 12:15PM -0800 I have seen devices that require a thin tool inserted into the holes (please, not when plugged in), to release internal tabs. Maybe that?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 06:12AM -0800 On Monday, 27 January 2020 19:59:10 UTC, tabby wrote:   > There's really nothing wrong with it other than there being something wrong with it :) It may happen, but if I can open it it should be an quick easy job from then on.   > > Peter Wieck > > Melrose Park, PA   Update time. Feet are moulded into the base. Turns out I'd overlooked the obvious. The base is fixed with one screw over on one side under a paper label - I just hadn't considered it might be fixed so oddly. And yes, an easy fix it is. It probably will get replaced with a more modern one, but it'll do for the week ahead. Thanks.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 09:32AM -0600 > And yes, an easy fix it is.   And what was that?     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 10:52AM -0800 >Picked up a 1972 Taylor barograph.   <https://www.google.com/search?q=Taylor+barograph&tbm=isch>   >amount. I know there must be alternative slow drying inks out there >with different names at less cost that might be suitable. Any >suggestions would be welcome here.   Rubber stamp pad refill ink should work. It would not do to have the stamp pad dry out prematurely. <https://www.staples.com/stamp+pad+ink/directory_stamp%2520pad%2520ink> Basically, you need an ink that will not dry out in less time needed for the drum to rotate one full revolution. Graphing barometers are available at varying rotation speeds. The most common is 1 rev = 1 week, but is also available in 1 day and 1 month per revolution.   More: <https://www.metcheck.co.uk/collections/barograph-pens-and-ink> <http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/47798-chart-recorder-ink-options/> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> <https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> etc...   >Another thing I want to work on is the pen. The original is a tiny, >triangular shaped stainless steel reservoir. A drop of ink is placed in >the reservoir and this lasts until empty.   Forget about changing the type of pen. The arm and pen are part of a carefully balanced mechanism. If you add or reduce weight on the arm, you will need to rebalance the mechanism. A drop of ink in the pen is about as light a pen as could be easily contrived. I would continue to use it.   >again expensive. I'm wondering if I might be able to modify or use a >standard felt pen from the store somehow in this application. Further >suggestions appreciated.   Sorry. I haven't tried replacing the stock ink well and have no plans on trying to do so.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 02:50PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 10:52:14 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> ><https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> >etc...   More of the same: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=recording+instrument+ink> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=barograph+recording+ink+slow+dry> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/ink-Universal-Bristols-Recorder-Ink-Waterbury-CT-Recording-Instrument-Ink/392645088431> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 03:20PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 14:50:45 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=recording+instrument+ink> ><https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=barograph+recording+ink+slow+dry> ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/ink-Universal-Bristols-Recorder-Ink-Waterbury-CT-Recording-Instrument-Ink/392645088431>   One more: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-or-Instrument-recording-pen-for-use-with-ink/143313378165> Note the comment on felt tip pens causing pen drag and slowing response time.   To make a slow dry ink, I would guess that the ink should be high viscosity so that it doesn't drip or run. It should also be high surface tension to slow evaporation. The high surface tension is easy enough by adding a few drops of a wetting agent such as Kodak Photo Flo 200: <https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html> I don't know how to increase viscosity. Maybe add some more pigment or solids.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 27 03:40PM -0800 In article <c7ru2ftiva01tpjscic0vvtaemen8vjpqq@4ax.com>, >enough by adding a few drops of a wetting agent such as Kodak Photo >Flo 200: ><https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html>   As I recall (and as that page states), Photo Flo is a surfactant, which _reduces_ the surface tension of the water. This makes it easier for the water to "wet" the surfaces to which it's applied. The water spreads out more quickly and (as the page says) "promote[s] faster, more uniform drying."   Probably not what you want, if you want ink to stay liquid.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 04:33PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 15:40:47 -0800, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >water spreads out more quickly and (as the page says) "promote[s] >faster, more uniform drying."   >Probably not what you want, if you want ink to stay liquid.   Oops. Surfactants and wetting agents are used to reduce evaporation is correct. However, mangled everything else. To reduce evaporation, surface tension should be lowered, not raised. Surfactants and wetting agents lower surface tension. Adding Photo Flo to the ink will still reduce evaporation, but not in the manner that I originally described.   Study of Surface Tension, Natural Evaporation, and Subcooled Boiling Evaporation of Aqueous Surfactant Solutions <https://commons.erau.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1304&context=edt>   Of course, nothing is simple:   Surface Tension and Evaporation <https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/61813/surface-tension-and-evaporation>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jan 28 12:01PM >amount. I know there must be alternative slow drying inks out there >with different names at less cost that might be suitable. Any >suggestions would be welcome here.   I used a barograph when I was at school 60 years ago. The ink was water based and fed to a metal stylus through a flexible plastic tube. The tube occasionally got blocked. I just blew down the tube to clear it out. It made a blob on the chart. The ink didn't dry. It just soaked into the paper.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 27 03:41PM -0800 I have one of these old timers and the bar sweep and color sweep section isn't working. Strangely, there are color bars over the dot and cross hatch patterns which I don't recall being a normal situation. All the switches are clean and tight.   Anyway, I have the full owner's manual that includes maintenance and calibration instructions, but no actual schematic.   Does anyone have a schematic of the 500 generator board and parts layout for the same board? This is the only board where the component legends are not silk screened on the board, and there are at least 12 ICs - all 16 pins each, most of them the same number.

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