sci.electronics.repair - 12 new messages in 5 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Using substitute Ink Cartridges in HP PSC 1315 - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1fa991cf19d8a400?hl=en
* Mixing 4 audio channels to 3? - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
* Klipsch KSW15 fault - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a74dbb3b099b790?hl=en
* Hacking APC UPS's "Master/Controlled" Feature? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97c4786ede874ee6?hl=en
* cheap nfl jerseys on sale in www.nike-black.com - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f42bb198320a8d9?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Using substitute Ink Cartridges in HP PSC 1315
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1fa991cf19d8a400?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 10:00 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 20:29:53 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>I have a HP PSC 1315 printer, scanner, copier. The instruction manual
>and the printer itself say to use 27 or 56 black, and 28 or 57 color
>cartridges. I have a couple of 21 black and one 22 color cartridges
>that are unopened. The pins and physical mounting appear to be
>identical to the newer cartridges. I know that I can just put the
>cartridges in and see what happens, but does anyone know for sure if
>these older cartridges can definitely be used?

The carts have chips inside that will complain that you have the wrong
cart. I have the identical printer in the office but have not tried
swapping carts. When I tried it with other printers and almost
interchangable ink and toner carts, it usually fails.

I suggest you look into refilling the carts. I've had really good
luck with refilling black ink carts and almost no luck with the color
carts. Bulk black ink is cheap at 1000ml for about $30. At 10ml ink
for the HP27 cart, that's 100 refills.

Since my customers that have such printers don't do much color
printing, I set their printer driver to print everything in black and
white. The almost empty color cart just sits in the printer doing
nothing. When possible, I try to sell them on a laser printer
replacement (HP LJ2300dn this week) and using the AOI inkjet printer
as a small scanner.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 9:05 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"


On Oct 30, 12:00 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 20:29:53 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofm...@att.net"
>
> <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote:
> >I have a HP PSC 1315 printer, scanner, copier.  The instruction manual
> >and the printer itself say to use 27 or 56 black, and 28 or 57 color
> >cartridges.  I have a couple of 21 black and one 22 color cartridges
> >that are unopened.  The pins and physical mounting appear to be
> >identical to the newer cartridges.  I know that I can just put the
> >cartridges in and see what happens, but does anyone know for sure if
> >these older cartridges can definitely be used?
>
> The carts have chips inside that will complain that you have the wrong
> cart.  I have the identical printer in the office but have not tried
> swapping carts.  When I tried it with other printers and almost
> interchangable ink and toner carts, it usually fails.
>
> I suggest you look into refilling the carts.  I've had really good
> luck with refilling black ink carts and almost no luck with the color
> carts.  Bulk black ink is cheap at 1000ml for about $30.  At 10ml ink
> for the HP27 cart, that's 100 refills.  
>
> Since my customers that have such printers don't do much color
> printing, I set their printer driver to print everything in black and
> white.  The almost empty color cart just sits in the printer doing
> nothing.  When possible, I try to sell them on a laser printer
> replacement (HP LJ2300dn this week) and using the AOI inkjet printer
> as a small scanner.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

HI Jeff:

I appreciate your comments, I'm going to try the swap later today and
will report results.

I already refill cartridges with ink from Stratitec. I have refilled
some cartridges more than 15 times, eventually they start to streak
because some of the jets get tired<g>. Had good luck with color also,
I never put in enough to fully fill the limited color volume, maybe
2/3 of what is claimed to be the refill amount, that way there is no
slopping over or out. I usually just drill the vent hole a little
larger to inject, and cover it with tape when finished.

The only problem is the "print" command always tells me the cartridge
is almost empty and you have to hit the "continue" command to keep on
going. But for the $$ saved, it is worthwhile. A little bleach on
the hands for 5 seconds gets any spilled ink stains off of me.

Bob H


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 2:58 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:05:41 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>I already refill cartridges with ink from Stratitec. I have refilled
>some cartridges more than 15 times, eventually they start to streak
>because some of the jets get tired<g>.

Did you buy their "auto reset" cartridge?
<https://secure.datatekusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=285&products_id=2100&osCsid=c7p0443pf5kqpep97catoqjvn1>
or, you could go through this exercise to reset the cart:
<http://tricks-collections.com/ink-level-reset-for-hp-cartridge-21-27-56-58/>
<http://tricks-collections.com/alternate-ink-level-reset-for-cartridges-hp-21-hp-27-hp-56-hp-58-hp-22-hp28-and-hp-57/>

Streaking is not a common problem. Usually, it's a clogged jet that
causes a white gap in the printing. Whenever I get streaking, it's
usually a semi-hardened blob on ink on the edge of the cart. Cleaning
it with soapy water or ammonia cleaner usually fixes it.

>Had good luck with color also,

Not me. I get about a 1/3 yield from my color refills.

>I never put in enough to fully fill the limited color volume, maybe
>2/3 of what is claimed to be the refill amount, that way there is no
>slopping over or out. I usually just drill the vent hole a little
>larger to inject, and cover it with tape when finished.

My syringes don't have markers, so I have to guess on the refill
amount. However, slopping ink is not the problem. It's clogged jets.

>The only problem is the "print" command always tells me the cartridge
>is almost empty and you have to hit the "continue" command to keep on
>going. But for the $$ saved, it is worthwhile.

Try the cart reset procedure listed above.

>A little bleach on
>the hands for 5 seconds gets any spilled ink stains off of me.

I use maximum odoriferous ammonia cleaner. It cleans the dried ink
and also helps eject the crowd of visitors that often infest my
palatial office. If I have a clogged head, I use a small ultrasonic
cleaner for a few seconds.

This might be of interest:
"Wholesale - ink cartridge converter-hp27/28 /56/57 to hp21/22"
<http://www.dhgate.com/ink-cartridge-converter-hp27-28-56-57-to/p-ff80808122c3cedc0122c488ff847115.html>
The "conversion" is in the wrong direction, but it shows that
substitution can be done. However, the $435 price tag might make it
uneconomical.

Let us know if you're able to use the substitute carts.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mixing 4 audio channels to 3?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 2:26 am
From: DaveC


> Why not go active and get rid of the caps altogether?

Thanks John. Good simple design.

Can you suggest a good op amp for such an audio application?

Is it possible to use single-supply amps throughout?

Thanks,
Dave

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 4:05 am
From: John Fields


On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 02:26:06 -0700, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> Why not go active and get rid of the caps altogether?
>
>Thanks John. Good simple design.
>
>Can you suggest a good op amp for such an audio application?

---
I used an LT1007 in the simulation.

Did you run it?
---

>Is it possible to use single-supply amps throughout?

---
Yes, but you'd have to use caps on the inputs and outputs and
reference the opamp + inputs to Vcc/2.

--
JF


== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 9:44 pm
From: DaveC


>> Can you suggest a good op amp for such an audio application?

> I used an LT1007 in the simulation.
>
> Did you run it?

No tools.

I made the L & R op amps fixed gain and added input level control pots:

<http://i43.tinypic.com/2hh3y12.jpg>

Comments?

Thanks.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 9:47 pm
From: DaveC


> <http://i43.tinypic.com/2hh3y12.jpg>

Should all pots be log taper?

Thanks.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 31 2011 12:16 am
From: DaveC


> I used an LT1007 in the simulation.

Can't find them on Mouser.

Suggest another one that's good for audio?

How about LM833? ::

<http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM833.pdf>

The SR and GBW beat the 1007... ;-)

Thanks.


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Klipsch KSW15 fault
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a74dbb3b099b790?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 3:33 pm
From: Trevor Wilson


I have a Klipsch KSW15 on the bench. The SMPS is fried. Klipsch cannot,
or will not supply a schematic, nor the PSU. They will, very kindly,
sell me a new plate amp for AUS$437.00! Seems straightforward enough. A
couple of MOSFETs, some resistors and diodes. One 'gotcha' though:

A part labelled THM3 is glued to one MOSFET. Presumably, some kind of
thermistor. No identifying marks. Looks like a small glass diode.

Any assistance would be appreciated. I can whack a whole new Class D amp
in for a couple of hundred Bucks, but I'd like to keep the cosmetics as
original as possible.

TIA.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hacking APC UPS's "Master/Controlled" Feature?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97c4786ede874ee6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 3:50 pm
From: "(PeteCresswell)"


I just bought two APC ES 750s.

The feature set touted on the box cites a "Master" outlet that
controls several "Controlled By Master" outlets.

My expectation was that the "Controlled" outlets would run on
battery until the "Master" device shut down.

The idea is that we can keep the router/switches working while
the NAS is on backup, but that they will not drain the battery
once the NAS shuts down.

Reading other threads, it seems like the "Controlled" outlets are
not really controlled by the master in the case of power loss:
they just shut down immediately.

Direct experience confirms this.


The Question:

Has anybody hacked one of these things so they actually function
as advertised? i.e. when power is lost, the devices connected to
"Controlled By Master" outlets stay powered up until the device
connected to the "Master" outlet shuts down.

My inner electronic/electrical illiterate is hoping that it might
be a simple as disconnecting a couple of wires in there and
re-connecting them to a different place.

Anybody?
--
PeteCresswell


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 30 2011 4:58 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


The specs for this discontinued product state that the five outlets across
the top are backed up by the battery.

These outlets will run until the battery voltage drops to where it can no
longer power the outlets. At that point, those five outlets will all shut
off. KA-CHOOM!

IF the device has a "master" outlet (I don't see it in the specs or the
photos), the "controlled" outlets turn on and off with the master, either
for convenience, or to save energy. (My audio system is wired this way --
the electronic crossovers turn the power amps on and off.) Once the battery
poops out, /everything/ powered by the battery shuts off. There is no
graceful shutdown.

You're confusing a convenience feature with operation of the device as a
source of backup power. The two (apparently) have absolutely nothing to do
with each other.

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=be750bb&tab=models

==============================================================================
TOPIC: cheap nfl jerseys on sale in www.nike-black.com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f42bb198320a8d9?hl=en
==============================================================================

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sci.electronics.repair - 16 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* 3mm 1.5V bright LED - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9857700f8db1631a?hl=en
* Mixing 4 audio channels to 3? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
* Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines) - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en
* issue with electret condenser mic - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0f83e591aedae6bd?hl=en
* 3Ah NiMH AA-size battery problem? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e5df21713a2eae15?hl=en
* Sony BE3D Chassis LED flashes - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cff9af107feb57eb?hl=en
* Using substitute Ink Cartridges in HP PSC 1315 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1fa991cf19d8a400?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3mm 1.5V bright LED
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9857700f8db1631a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 1:36 pm
From: "Ian Field"

"Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j8e0kr$ttb$1@dont-email.me...
>
> Is there such a toy?


Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.


== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 1:16 am
From: "bw"

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:zoEqq.6082$gS1.1219@newsfe17.ams2...
>
> "Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:j8e0kr$ttb$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> Is there such a toy?
>
>
> Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.

http://cappels.org/dproj/ledpage/leddrv.htm


== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 5:30 am
From: Man-wai Chang


>> Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.
>
> http://cappels.org/dproj/ledpage/leddrv.htm

I want one that has the (over?) driver built into the LED... :)


--
@~@ You have the right to remain silence.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora 15 i686) Linux 3.0.4
^ ^ 13:36:02 up 11 days 17:42 0 users load average: 0.01 0.02 0.05
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa


== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 8:44 am
From: "Ian Field"

"Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j8grkj$28m$1@dont-email.me...
>>> Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.
>>
>> http://cappels.org/dproj/ledpage/leddrv.htm
>
> I want one that has the (over?) driver built into the LED... :)


Some time ago Elektor did a front cover freebie; a tiny PCB with a dedicated
LED drive chip and inductor for voltages down to 0.9V - that's probably as
small as it gets.

Can't remember details but if you google Elektor and click contact from
their home page, you can ask the editor.


== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 9:03 am
From: Spehro Pefhany


On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:37:15 +0800, the renowned Man-wai Chang
<toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>Is there such a toy?

You could use this simple circuit to work down to <<1V --


FB = OUT for Red

FB = GND for Green/Blue/White
|
.----------.
Vin 0.8V minimum | FB |
10uH | |
___ | L6920 | LED
o----+---UUU----|LX OUT|----+->|---+
+ | | | | |
--- | | | |
--- | REF | | .-.
47uF | '----------' | | |
| | + | |
GND 100n --- --- '-'
--- 47uF --- |
| |
GND GND GND


All the parts can be tiny SMT components. Reduce the 47uF caps to 22uF
and use 0805 22uF/6.3V ceramics and an 0805 inductor to reduce size,
and the 100n can be an 0402.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com


== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 2:39 pm
From: "Ian Field"

"Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j8grkj$28m$1@dont-email.me...
>>> Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.
>>
>> http://cappels.org/dproj/ledpage/leddrv.htm
>
> I want one that has the (over?) driver built into the LED... :)


http://www.elektor.com/magazines/2006/november/pr4401-led-driver.58609.lynkx


== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 4:50 pm
From: Spehro Pefhany


On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 22:39:27 +0100, the renowned "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>
>"Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:j8grkj$28m$1@dont-email.me...
>>>> Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.
>>>
>>> http://cappels.org/dproj/ledpage/leddrv.htm
>>
>> I want one that has the (over?) driver built into the LED... :)
>
>
>http://www.elektor.com/magazines/2006/november/pr4401-led-driver.58609.lynkx
>

Presumably this part?

http://www.prema.com/pdf/pr4401.pdf


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mixing 4 audio channels to 3?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 12:49 am
From: DaveC


> 10 kohms for all fixed resistor should work...

Hi Tomi. Thank you for your advice. I have enjoyed your creative designs for
many years.

Do you have any comments on my revisions of the circuit (ie, are caps
recommended? should I be concerned about cross talk if I take resistors from
all 4 channels to drive the sub woofer? etc...)

Cheers,
Dave

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 6:51 am
From: John Fields


On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 00:49:32 -0700, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> 10 kohms for all fixed resistor should work...
>
>Hi Tomi. Thank you for your advice. I have enjoyed your creative designs for
>many years.
>
>Do you have any comments on my revisions of the circuit (ie, are caps
>recommended? should I be concerned about cross talk if I take resistors from
>all 4 channels to drive the sub woofer? etc...)
>
>Cheers,
>Dave

---
Why not go active and get rid of the caps altogether?


.LA>-+---[10k]-+-[10k]-+-------------> -(LA+LB)
. | | |
. | | +V |
. | | | |
.LB>-|-+-[10k]-+--|-\ |
. | | | >-+ 10K
. | | +--|+/ +-[POT]-+
. | | | | | |
. | | GND -V | +5 |
. | | | | |
. | +------[10K]---+---+-|-\ |
. | | | >--+--> -(LA+LB+RA+RB)
. +--------[10K]---+ +-|+/
. | |
. +--------[10K]---+ GND
. | |
. | +------[10K]---+
. | |
. | |
. | |
.RA>-+-+-[10k]-+-[10k]-+
. | | |
. | | +V |
. | | | |
.RB>-+---[10k]-+--|-\ |
. | >-+-------------> -(RA+RB)
. +--|+/
. | |
. GND -V

Seems to work pretty well...

Version 4
SHEET 1 880 968
WIRE 112 -544 48 -544
WIRE 224 -544 192 -544
WIRE -96 -448 -528 -448
WIRE 32 -448 -16 -448
WIRE 48 -448 48 -544
WIRE 48 -448 32 -448
WIRE 112 -448 48 -448
WIRE 224 -432 224 -544
WIRE 224 -432 176 -432
WIRE 256 -432 224 -432
WIRE 112 -416 80 -416
WIRE -96 -352 -432 -352
WIRE 32 -352 32 -448
WIRE 32 -352 -16 -352
WIRE 80 -352 80 -416
WIRE -528 -240 -528 -448
WIRE -416 -240 -528 -240
WIRE 64 -240 -336 -240
WIRE 112 -240 64 -240
WIRE 240 -240 192 -240
WIRE -432 -192 -432 -352
WIRE -352 -192 -432 -192
WIRE 64 -192 64 -240
WIRE 64 -192 -272 -192
WIRE -272 -144 -336 -144
WIRE 64 -144 64 -192
WIRE 64 -144 -192 -144
WIRE -176 -96 -240 -96
WIRE 64 -96 64 -144
WIRE 64 -96 -96 -96
WIRE 128 -96 64 -96
WIRE 240 -80 240 -240
WIRE 240 -80 192 -80
WIRE 272 -80 240 -80
WIRE 128 -64 96 -64
WIRE 96 0 96 -64
WIRE 112 112 48 112
WIRE 224 112 192 112
WIRE -336 208 -336 -144
WIRE -96 208 -336 208
WIRE 32 208 -16 208
WIRE 48 208 48 112
WIRE 48 208 32 208
WIRE 112 208 48 208
WIRE 224 224 224 112
WIRE 224 224 176 224
WIRE 256 224 224 224
WIRE 112 240 80 240
WIRE -240 304 -240 -96
WIRE -96 304 -240 304
WIRE 32 304 32 208
WIRE 32 304 -16 304
WIRE 80 304 80 240
WIRE -528 688 -528 -240
WIRE -432 688 -432 -192
WIRE -336 688 -336 208
WIRE -240 688 -240 304
WIRE -144 688 -144 656
WIRE -48 688 -48 656
WIRE -528 832 -528 768
WIRE -432 832 -432 768
WIRE -432 832 -528 832
WIRE -336 832 -336 768
WIRE -336 832 -432 832
WIRE -240 832 -240 768
WIRE -240 832 -336 832
WIRE -144 832 -144 768
WIRE -144 832 -240 832
WIRE -48 832 -48 768
WIRE -48 832 -144 832
WIRE -528 928 -528 832
FLAG 144 192 +5
FLAG 144 256 -5
FLAG 80 304 0
FLAG 144 -464 +5
FLAG 144 -400 -5
FLAG 80 -352 0
FLAG -528 928 0
FLAG -144 656 +5
FLAG -48 656 -5
FLAG 160 -112 +5
FLAG 160 -48 -5
FLAG 96 0 0
SYMBOL Opamps\\LT1007 144 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName U1
SYMBOL voltage -240 672 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V3
SYMATTR Value SINE(0 1 1000)
SYMBOL res 0 192 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R1
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res 0 288 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R2
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res 208 96 R90
WINDOW 0 -43 58 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 -37 60 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R3
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL Opamps\\LT1007 144 -496 R0
SYMATTR InstName U2
SYMBOL res 0 -464 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R4
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res 0 -368 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R5
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res 208 -560 R90
WINDOW 0 -43 58 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 -37 60 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R6
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL voltage -48 784 R180
WINDOW 0 -50 102 Left 2
WINDOW 3 24 16 Left 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V1
SYMATTR Value 5
SYMBOL voltage -144 672 R0
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V2
SYMATTR Value 5
SYMBOL res -80 -112 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R7
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res -176 -160 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R8
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res -256 -208 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R9
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res -320 -256 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R10
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL Opamps\\LT1007 160 -144 R0
SYMATTR InstName U3
SYMBOL res 208 -256 R90
WINDOW 0 -43 58 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 -37 60 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R12
SYMATTR Value 5k
SYMBOL voltage -336 672 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V4
SYMATTR Value SINE(0 1 1700)
SYMBOL voltage -432 672 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V5
SYMATTR Value SINE(0 1 2300)
SYMBOL voltage -528 672 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V6
SYMATTR Value SINE(0 1 4260)
TEXT -562 952 Left 2 !.tran .005


--
JF

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 12:56 am
From: Franc Zabkar


On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 07:45:52 -0700 (PDT), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I did check the capacitors and some were high with a capacitor meter
>so I replaced them and the card worked for a few days but the symptoms
>returned again. The power supply voltages going to the card seem
>normal. Are there any tests I can do on the card?

I suspect that the card manufacturers would have their own
diagnostics, but I haven't seen anything like this on the Internet. I
don't know what you could do except to narrow down the fault with a
hair dryer and spray freezer. I would also choose the lowest possible
refresh rate in the properties for your card.

The only other thing I can think of, if you really are desperate to
save this card, would be to reduce its capacity from 256MB to 128MB,
assuming of course that yours is the former.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 1:44 am
From: "N_Cook"


Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:s59na75ctqokic2hmerudc80h5j065olbe@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 07:45:52 -0700 (PDT), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com>
> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >I did check the capacitors and some were high with a capacitor meter
> >so I replaced them and the card worked for a few days but the symptoms
> >returned again. The power supply voltages going to the card seem
> >normal. Are there any tests I can do on the card?
>
> I suspect that the card manufacturers would have their own
> diagnostics, but I haven't seen anything like this on the Internet. I
> don't know what you could do except to narrow down the fault with a
> hair dryer and spray freezer. I would also choose the lowest possible
> refresh rate in the properties for your card.
>
> The only other thing I can think of, if you really are desperate to
> save this card, would be to reduce its capacity from 256MB to 128MB,
> assuming of course that yours is the former.
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


A last resort might be trying insulated jaw soft clamp over , in sequence,
some of the chippery in case of poor SMD/BGA solder somewhere. If that
improves things then maybe some sort of dedicated clamp , assuming
resoldering is out of the question

==============================================================================
TOPIC: issue with electret condenser mic
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0f83e591aedae6bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 7:15 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


I'd go with Michael's suggestion. Put a 'scope on the B+ to the mics (in all
the devices), and see if there are any disturbances. It's certainly a
reasonable place to start.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3Ah NiMH AA-size battery problem?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e5df21713a2eae15?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 9:19 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"


On Oct 27, 4:25 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> High performance so not thrown away lightly
> No difference in observed powering performance to its mate bought at the
> same time. Same DVM loaded battery test after both are charged. Orange MP
> make if relevant. One has had for some time , ignored as a scuff mark to the
> orange plastic and apparently showing aluminium case under, a hole in the
> case. About 2 x 1 mm looks like a melted oval rim of aluminium with central
> area of dusty grey ceramic looking material. But the surrounding orange
> heatshrink is not melted , looks a neat junction between oval "cut" plastic
> and melted aluminium which makes no sense. What is this hole? prognosis?
> paliative measures to be taken ? dangerous chemically or flammability ?

just throw it out

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony BE3D Chassis LED flashes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cff9af107feb57eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 2:03 pm
From: Jack00


The standby LED flashes on this TV set continuously.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Using substitute Ink Cartridges in HP PSC 1315
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1fa991cf19d8a400?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 8:29 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"


I have a HP PSC 1315 printer, scanner, copier. The instruction manual
and the printer itself say to use 27 or 56 black, and 28 or 57 color
cartridges. I have a couple of 21 black and one 22 color cartridges
that are unopened. The pins and physical mounting appear to be
identical to the newer cartridges. I know that I can just put the
cartridges in and see what happens, but does anyone know for sure if
these older cartridges can definitely be used?


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 29 2011 10:00 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 20:29:53 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>I have a HP PSC 1315 printer, scanner, copier. The instruction manual
>and the printer itself say to use 27 or 56 black, and 28 or 57 color
>cartridges. I have a couple of 21 black and one 22 color cartridges
>that are unopened. The pins and physical mounting appear to be
>identical to the newer cartridges. I know that I can just put the
>cartridges in and see what happens, but does anyone know for sure if
>these older cartridges can definitely be used?

The carts have chips inside that will complain that you have the wrong
cart. I have the identical printer in the office but have not tried
swapping carts. When I tried it with other printers and almost
interchangable ink and toner carts, it usually fails.

I suggest you look into refilling the carts. I've had really good
luck with refilling black ink carts and almost no luck with the color
carts. Bulk black ink is cheap at 1000ml for about $30. At 10ml ink
for the HP27 cart, that's 100 refills.

Since my customers that have such printers don't do much color
printing, I set their printer driver to print everything in black and
white. The almost empty color cart just sits in the printer doing
nothing. When possible, I try to sell them on a laser printer
replacement (HP LJ2300dn this week) and using the AOI inkjet printer
as a small scanner.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


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sci.electronics.repair - 6 new messages in 4 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines) - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en
* Mixing 4 audio channels to 3? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
* 3mm 1.5V bright LED - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9857700f8db1631a?hl=en
* home-brew Freon TF substitutes? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 27 2011 8:37 pm
From: Franc Zabkar


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:45:08 -0700 (PDT), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I got this graphics card in my PC and the picture on the monitor
>displays red dots and lines and sometimes goes away but returns
>again. I had to disable the driver for this card as Windows XP wont
>boot in normal mode ie shows a black screen but in safe mode XP boots
>but with red spots and lines and the picture goes purple if you try to
>browse on the internet. Is there any tests I can do with a
>multimeter? Or maybe get hold of a circuit diagram?

Those symptoms are consistent with a fault in the card's RAM. By
switching to a different driver, you are accessing difference areas of
memory. Also, if you select a lower refresh rate, this may mitigate
any timing issue.

Did you check the fan and capacitors on the card?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 7:45 am
From: Jack00


On Oct 28, 4:37 am, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:45:08 -0700 (PDT), Jack00 <SPal508...@aol.com>
> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >I got this graphics card in my PC and the picture on the monitor
> >displays red dots and lines and sometimes goes away but returns
> >again. I had to disable the driver for this card as Windows XP wont
> >boot in normal mode ie shows a black screen but in safe mode XP boots
> >but with red spots and lines and the picture goes purple if you try to
> >browse on the internet. Is there any tests I can do with a
> >multimeter? Or maybe get hold of a circuit diagram?
>
> Those symptoms are consistent with a fault in the card's RAM. By
> switching to a different driver, you are accessing difference areas of
> memory. Also, if you select a lower refresh rate, this may mitigate
> any timing issue.
>
> Did you check the fan and capacitors on the card?
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I did check the capacitors and some were high with a capacitor meter
so I replaced them and the card worked for a few days but the symptoms
returned again. The power supply voltages going to the card seem
normal. Are there any tests I can do on the card?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mixing 4 audio channels to 3?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 3:10 am
From: NT


On Oct 27, 5:11 pm, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> > Or, as is not uncommonly done these days in portable digital players,
> > establish a floating ground for the purpose of providing and signal for the
> > (floating) load, so that the difference between the output and the floating
> > ground can become negative.
>
> Which raises the question I was pondering recently: is it OK to connect 2
> computers' sound cards' grounds together?
>
> The PS for the powered speakers is via "wall wart" (not grounded).
>
> Thanks.

I've yet to have a problem doing it.


NT

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3mm 1.5V bright LED
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9857700f8db1631a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 3:37 am
From: Man-wai Chang

Is there such a toy?

--
@~@ You have the right to remain silence.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora 15 i686) Linux 3.0.4
^ ^ 13:36:02 up 11 days 17:42 0 users load average: 0.01 0.02 0.05
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 1:36 pm
From: "Ian Field"

"Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j8e0kr$ttb$1@dont-email.me...
>
> Is there such a toy?


Yes if you use a 1.5V blocking oscillator.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: home-brew Freon TF substitutes?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 28 2011 8:57 am
From: gregz


gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:
> Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
>> news:zL1qq.3343$cH4.2935@newsfe24.ams2:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
>>> news:Xns9F8A7A4D7B694jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
>>>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
>>>> news:H4Jpq.2929$M61.1622@newsfe09.ams2:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Jeff Layman" <JMLayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>> news:j83vnf$cjh$2@news.albasani.net...
>>>>>> On 24/10/2011 13:33, Nomen Nescio wrote:
>>>>>>> I last saw this in the mid 1990s. I knew a warehouse that still
>>>>>>> had some drums hidden away...
>>>>>>> Bloody best cleaner ever. Although some liked Genklene,
>>>>>>> now also banned.
>>>>>>> There are some commercial spray cleaners that claim to be
>>>>>>> almost as good. I would like something in bulk for dipping
>>>>>>> computer boards. Isopropyl alchohol is suggested by some,
>>>>>>> but has 9% water usually.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not sure where you are, but isopropyl alcohol is usually available
>>>>>> 99.9% pure, with a negligible water content.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd go along with that. The stuff specified as 'electronics grade'
>>>>> is typically at least 99.7% to get that rating
>>>>>
>>>>> Arfa
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the IPA commonly available at drug stores is usually 90-91%,I
>>>> believe,at least in the US.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jim Yanik
>>>
>>> Probably the same here, which is why you have to go to an electronic
>>> parts supplier to get the electronics grade one
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I don't know if US parts suppliers even carry IPA in any percentage.
>>
>> besides,after you open your bottle of 99% IPA,it probably absorbs enough
>> moisture from the air to drop it to 91%..... ;-)
>>
>> Hmm,IIRC,Everclear (grain alcohol from a liquor store) is 95% ethanol.
>> I believe it's the highest % of alcohol lawfully sold for drinking
>> purposes.
>
>
> Probably similar to lab grade 95% higher grades cannot be drunk. They used
> to use lab grade to spike the punch. Had some high purity isopropyl. By the
> time the alcohol dries, there is water droplets on boards. Must be dried
> with warm air.
>
> 99% turns to 100% water.
>
> Greg

Adding to the problem, the cooling effect from alcohol evaporation causes
condensation of water vapor.

Greg


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sci.electronics.repair - 2 new messages in 2 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* home-brew Freon TF substitutes? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
* Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: home-brew Freon TF substitutes?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 27 2011 5:00 pm
From: gregz


Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
> news:zL1qq.3343$cH4.2935@newsfe24.ams2:
>
>>
>>
>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
>> news:Xns9F8A7A4D7B694jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
>>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
>>> news:H4Jpq.2929$M61.1622@newsfe09.ams2:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Jeff Layman" <JMLayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
>>>> news:j83vnf$cjh$2@news.albasani.net...
>>>>> On 24/10/2011 13:33, Nomen Nescio wrote:
>>>>>> I last saw this in the mid 1990s. I knew a warehouse that still
>>>>>> had some drums hidden away...
>>>>>> Bloody best cleaner ever. Although some liked Genklene,
>>>>>> now also banned.
>>>>>> There are some commercial spray cleaners that claim to be
>>>>>> almost as good. I would like something in bulk for dipping
>>>>>> computer boards. Isopropyl alchohol is suggested by some,
>>>>>> but has 9% water usually.
>>>>>
>>>>> Not sure where you are, but isopropyl alcohol is usually available
>>>>> 99.9% pure, with a negligible water content.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>
>>>> I'd go along with that. The stuff specified as 'electronics grade'
>>>> is typically at least 99.7% to get that rating
>>>>
>>>> Arfa
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> the IPA commonly available at drug stores is usually 90-91%,I
>>> believe,at least in the US.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jim Yanik
>>
>> Probably the same here, which is why you have to go to an electronic
>> parts supplier to get the electronics grade one
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>>
>
> I don't know if US parts suppliers even carry IPA in any percentage.
>
> besides,after you open your bottle of 99% IPA,it probably absorbs enough
> moisture from the air to drop it to 91%..... ;-)
>
> Hmm,IIRC,Everclear (grain alcohol from a liquor store) is 95% ethanol.
> I believe it's the highest % of alcohol lawfully sold for drinking
> purposes.


Probably similar to lab grade 95% higher grades cannot be drunk. They used
to use lab grade to spike the punch. Had some high purity isopropyl. By the
time the alcohol dries, there is water droplets on boards. Must be dried
with warm air.

99% turns to 100% water.

Greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Asus N7600GS (red dots and lines)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f811f0a341e6e63e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 27 2011 8:37 pm
From: Franc Zabkar


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:45:08 -0700 (PDT), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I got this graphics card in my PC and the picture on the monitor
>displays red dots and lines and sometimes goes away but returns
>again. I had to disable the driver for this card as Windows XP wont
>boot in normal mode ie shows a black screen but in safe mode XP boots
>but with red spots and lines and the picture goes purple if you try to
>browse on the internet. Is there any tests I can do with a
>multimeter? Or maybe get hold of a circuit diagram?

Those symptoms are consistent with a fault in the card's RAM. By
switching to a different driver, you are accessing difference areas of
memory. Also, if you select a lower refresh rate, this may mitigate
any timing issue.

Did you check the fan and capacitors on the card?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


==============================================================================

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Mixing 4 audio channels to 3? - 12 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
* unassembling external drive enclosure - 7 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d976fe30b90ef802?hl=en
* broke my own circuit - 4017 decade/Johnson counter - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/33e2c80674da2af0?hl=en
* home-brew Freon TF substitutes? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
* Peavey Valve King 212 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ec305ab9075c184c?hl=en
* issue with electret condenser mic - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0f83e591aedae6bd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mixing 4 audio channels to 3?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c921002b2ed750?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Tues, Oct 25 2011 11:59 pm
From: DaveC


If I'm on the right track, what are the suggested values for resistors?

Thahks.

== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 8:50 am
From: NT


On Oct 26, 7:58 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> I want to connect the audio out (headphone jack) of 2 computer sound cards to
> a desktop & woofer speaker-amp combination. (The original input was via USB
> only and I'm modifying this for analog audio input.)
>
> This is my guess at the necessary resistors to mix down these 4 outputs to
> the 3 inputs in the amplifier (L, R, sub):
>
> <http://i41.tinypic.com/97mpud.jpg>

Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.


NT


== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 9:09 am
From: spam@spam.com (Don Pearce)


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:50:55 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow2222@care2.com>
wrote:

>On Oct 26, 7:58 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
>> I want to connect the audio out (headphone jack) of 2 computer sound cards to
>> a desktop & woofer speaker-amp combination. (The original input was via USB
>> only and I'm modifying this for analog audio input.)
>>
>> This is my guess at the necessary resistors to mix down these 4 outputs to
>> the 3 inputs in the amplifier (L, R, sub):
>>
>> <http://i41.tinypic.com/97mpud.jpg>
>
>Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.
>
>
>NT

Is there something wrong with my browser? I can't see any of these
component references. Actually I see what you mean. One problem here
is that R9 and R10 are going to cause crosstalk. Without some active
electronics there is no way around that apart from taking the sub from
one channel only. This is actually quite common.

d


== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 10:04 am
From: DaveC


> Is there something wrong with my browser? I can't see any of these
> component references.

Sorry. They didn't make onto the jpg file. Added here:

<http://i40.tinypic.com/5ets9w.jpg>

> Actually I see what you mean. One problem here
> is that R9 and R10 are going to cause crosstalk. Without some active
> electronics there is no way around that apart from taking the sub from
> one channel only. This is actually quite common.
> d

OK, can do that.

Suggested values for resistors?

Thanks.

== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 10:10 am
From: DaveC


> Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.
> NT

Callouts added:

<http://i40.tinypic.com/5ets9w.jpg>

R11 provides some adjustment for sub. Otherwise no way to have any difference
between L & R channel volume and sub volume.

The caps are suggested on the data sheet example:

<http://i40.tinypic.com/5ets9w.jpg>

Why would you do away with them?

What values for the resistors do you suggest?

Thanks.

== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 10:49 am
From: spam@spam.com (Don Pearce)


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:10:12 -0700, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.
>> NT
>
>Callouts added:
>
><http://i40.tinypic.com/5ets9w.jpg>
>
>R11 provides some adjustment for sub. Otherwise no way to have any difference
>between L & R channel volume and sub volume.
>
>The caps are suggested on the data sheet example:
>
><http://i40.tinypic.com/5ets9w.jpg>
>
>Why would you do away with them?
>
>What values for the resistors do you suggest?
>
>Thanks.

For that particular circuit with that chip, the caps are necessary
because those inputs are not at ground potential. If you are feeding
normal hi fi unit inputs the caps aren't needed. Resistor values
around 5 to 10 k would be what you need.

d


== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 11:18 am
From: DaveC


> For that particular circuit with that chip, the caps are necessary
> because those inputs are not at ground potential. If you are feeding
> normal hi fi unit inputs the caps aren't needed. Resistor values
> around 5 to 10 k would be what you need.

And the value for the potentiometer?

Thanks.

== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 11:26 am
From: spam@spam.com (Don Pearce)


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:18:39 -0700, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> For that particular circuit with that chip, the caps are necessary
>> because those inputs are not at ground potential. If you are feeding
>> normal hi fi unit inputs the caps aren't needed. Resistor values
>> around 5 to 10 k would be what you need.
>
>And the value for the potentiometer?
>
That depends entirely on the input impedance of the subwoofer. You
could try a 100k pot and connect it as a normal volume control - one
end to the incoming signal, the other end to ground and the slider to
the subwoofer.

d


== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 11:52 am
From: DaveC


> That depends entirely on the input impedance of the subwoofer. You
> could try a 100k pot and connect it as a normal volume control - one
> end to the incoming signal, the other end to ground and the slider to
> the subwoofer.
>
> d

The data sheet says that the 2 single-ended inputs (R & L) are 50K impedance.
The bridge-tied load ("BTL") input -- used for the sub -- is 25K impedance.

Does this suggest any change to your recommendation of a 100K pot tied to
ground?

Thanks.

== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 12:20 pm
From: spam@spam.com (Don Pearce)


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:52:49 -0700, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> That depends entirely on the input impedance of the subwoofer. You
>> could try a 100k pot and connect it as a normal volume control - one
>> end to the incoming signal, the other end to ground and the slider to
>> the subwoofer.
>>
>> d
>
>The data sheet says that the 2 single-ended inputs (R & L) are 50K impedance.
>The bridge-tied load ("BTL") input -- used for the sub -- is 25K impedance.
>
>Does this suggest any change to your recommendation of a 100K pot tied to
>ground?
>
>Thanks.

No, that would be about right.

d


== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 1:03 pm
From: moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com (Michael Moroney)


spam@spam.com (Don Pearce) writes:

>On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:50:55 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow2222@care2.com>
>wrote:

>>On Oct 26, 7:58 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
>>> I want to connect the audio out (headphone jack) of 2 computer sound cards to
>>> a desktop & woofer speaker-amp combination. (The original input was via USB
>>> only and I'm modifying this for analog audio input.)
>>>
>>> This is my guess at the necessary resistors to mix down these 4 outputs to
>>> the 3 inputs in the amplifier (L, R, sub):
>>>
>>> <http://i41.tinypic.com/97mpud.jpg>
>>
>>Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.
>>
>>
>>NT

>Is there something wrong with my browser? I can't see any of these
>component references. Actually I see what you mean. One problem here
>is that R9 and R10 are going to cause crosstalk. Without some active
>electronics there is no way around that apart from taking the sub from
>one channel only. This is actually quite common.

I don't see component references, either. However, assuming R1-R4 are
the resistors from the inputs to ground, they may be necessary to provide
a proper impedance to the source driving them.

To reduce crosstalk, I'd replace the two resistors from the 220nF
cap junctions to the pot with four resistors from each of the four inputs
to the pot. Presumably, the output impedance of the amps is low compared
to the resistors reducing crosstalk.

For mixing signals there is a method using amps and feedback where the
connection between multiple sources is at a virtual ground, eliminating
crosstalk.


== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 1:25 pm
From: NT


On Oct 26, 5:09 pm, s...@spam.com (Don Pearce) wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:50:55 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow2...@care2.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On Oct 26, 7:58 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> >> I want to connect the audio out (headphone jack) of 2 computer sound cards to
> >> a desktop & woofer speaker-amp combination. (The original input was via USB
> >> only and I'm modifying this for analog audio input.)
>
> >> This is my guess at the necessary resistors to mix down these 4 outputs to
> >> the 3 inputs in the amplifier (L, R, sub):
>
> >> <http://i41.tinypic.com/97mpud.jpg>
>
> >Lose Rs 1-4, keep 5-8, lose R11, and lose C1,2,3, then itll be good.
>
> >NT
>
> Is there something wrong with my browser? I can't see any of these
> component references. Actually I see what you mean. One problem here
> is that R9 and R10 are going to cause crosstalk. Without some active
> electronics there is no way around that apart from taking the sub from
> one channel only. This is actually quite common.
>
> d

I was hinting that the OP might decide to add numbers to the
components, otherwise its sufficiently tedious to talk about them that
people often just wont bother.

Yes the caps are necessary, but for the amp IC, not for the mixer.
House them together and its the same difference, house them apart and
the distiction matters.


NT

==============================================================================
TOPIC: unassembling external drive enclosure
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d976fe30b90ef802?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 3:42 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"


"Ninho" <don't.use!@this.is.invalid> wrote in message
news:XnF9F8987F397CBBG6R6C1N@193.252.117.183...
> Hi! Got a problem, which I've been advised to submit to this Group's
> experienced users. Please pardon me if I made an error posting, also,
> bear with less than adequate English !
>
> So, a 6/7 years old 80-gigabyte disk in an external USB 2.0
> enclosure has failed me. I suspect the drive itself could be OK but
> the USB interface or other electronics/connectics of the case might
> have fail (it had been acting weird sometimes)
>
> Now I would like to separate the drive from this enclosure and
> connect it straight to the MoBoard for testing.
>
> Brand stamped on the pretty, sturdy case is "QPS multimedia" ("made
> in China"). Disk inside is Maxtor 80 Gb, probably pATA.
>
> Disk + enclosure came as a unit, and the problem is, I can't seem to
> be able to disassemble it even after removing screws :=(
> I don't think I've missed any hidden screws.
>
> The disk itself is a 80Gb Maxtor, I assume pATA.
>
> Googling hasn't served very much, nor did Youtube help. The "QPS"
> brand is no longer manufacturing those articles it seems.
>
> I hope someone can point me to a site with instructions or hints for
> disassembly.
>
> --
> Ninho


Does it utilize an external power supply adaptor? My Western Digital MyBook
developed bad caps in the power supply.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 6:14 am
From: Steph


"Mark Zacharias" wrote:
> "Ninho" <don't.use!@this.is.invalid> wrote in message
>> So, a 6/7 years old 80-gigabyte disk in an external USB 2.0
>> enclosure has failed me. I suspect the drive itself could be OK
>> but the USB interface or other electronics/connectics of the case
>> might have fail (it had been acting weird sometimes)

> Does it utilize an external power supply adaptor? My Western
> Digital MyBook developed bad caps in the power supply.


It does indeed - the possibility of a bad power supply hadn't even
traversed my mind ! The PS connects to the main unit using a DIN plug,
which to this layman seems a non standard arrangement and I don't know
where to find a spare.

--
Ninho


== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 6:14 am
From: chrisj.doran%proemail.co.uk@gtempaccount.com


On Oct 26, 11:42 am, "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zachar...@labolgcbs.net>
wrote:
> "Ninho" <don't.u...@this.is.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:XnF9F8987F397CBBG6R6C1N@193.252.117.183...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi! Got a problem, which I've been advised to submit to this Group's
> > experienced users. Please pardon me if I made an error posting, also,
> > bear with less than adequate English !
>
> > So, a 6/7 years old 80-gigabyte disk in an external USB 2.0
> > enclosure has failed me. I suspect the drive itself could be OK but
> > the USB interface or other electronics/connectics of the case might
> > have fail (it had been acting weird sometimes)
>
> > Now I would like to separate the drive from this enclosure and
> > connect it straight to the MoBoard for testing.
>
> > Brand stamped on the pretty, sturdy case is "QPS multimedia" ("made
> > in China"). Disk inside is Maxtor 80 Gb, probably pATA.
>
> > Disk + enclosure came as a unit, and the problem is, I can't seem to
> > be able to disassemble it even after removing screws :=(
> > I don't think I've missed any hidden screws.
>
> > The disk itself is a 80Gb Maxtor, I assume pATA.
>
> > Googling hasn't served very much, nor did Youtube help. The "QPS"
> > brand is no longer manufacturing those articles it seems.
>
> > I hope someone can point me to a site with instructions or hints for
> > disassembly.
>
> > --
> > Ninho
>
> Does it utilize an external power supply adaptor? My Western Digital MyBook
> developed bad caps in the power supply.
>
> Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Same here with my ATMT HD363n -- I've got through two of the supplied
power supplies and now using something beefier. "Acting weird
sometimes" (partial file copies and file renaming failing) followed by
total failure is a good description of the symptoms. I think I'm
having a similar problem with my modem/router wallwart.

Chris


== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 7:40 am
From: Dave M


On 26 Oct 2011 13:14:34 GMT, Steph <pas.de.mail@serveur.invalid> wrote:

>"Mark Zacharias" wrote:
>> "Ninho" <don't.use!@this.is.invalid> wrote in message
>>> So, a 6/7 years old 80-gigabyte disk in an external USB 2.0
>>> enclosure has failed me. I suspect the drive itself could be OK
>>> but the USB interface or other electronics/connectics of the case
>>> might have fail (it had been acting weird sometimes)
>
>> Does it utilize an external power supply adaptor? My Western
>> Digital MyBook developed bad caps in the power supply.
>
>
>It does indeed - the possibility of a bad power supply hadn't even
>traversed my mind ! The PS connects to the main unit using a DIN plug,
>which to this layman seems a non standard arrangement and I don't know
>where to find a spare.

What is the make and model of the drive (not the drive itself, but the
whole assembly)?
I've had to replace the power supplies for two of my external drives,
one Iomega and one Western Digital. It's not too difficult to find
replacement power supplies. I found very reasonable power supplies on
Amazon. I bought Hootoo Laptop Battery Chargers, which seem to work
well and have been reliable for over a year. Hootoo makes power
supplies for many makes and models.

Cheers,
Dave M


== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 8:21 am
From: Ninho


Dave M <masondg4499@comcast.net> écrivait

> On 26 Oct 2011 13:14:34 GMT, Steph <pas.de.mail@serveur.invalid>

That Steph above would be me

> asked:

> What is the make and model of the drive (not the drive itself, but
> the whole assembly)?

"QPS Multimedia" "USB 2.0" "Made in China" and a barcode and serial
number is all identification I can find on the case. External
dimensions (centimetres) are about 22x13x4.

It appears QPS doesn't manufacture or distribute hard disk assemblies
any more.

> I've had to replace the power supplies for two of my external
> drives, one Iomega and one Western Digital. It's not too
> difficult to find replacement power supplies. I found very
> reasonable power supplies on Amazon. I bought Hootoo Laptop
> Battery Chargers, which seem to work well and have been reliable
> for over a year. Hootoo makes power supplies for many makes and
> models.

Good to know, still I'd like to be able to get the drive out of the
stupid case first !
As for the power adapter again, its DIN-format connector is a dual
5V/12V output - 4 pins. Does this seem like a standard arrangement ?

--
Ninho

> Cheers,
> Dave M

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 9:08 am
From: "Dave M"


Ninho wrote:
> Dave M <masondg4499@comcast.net> écrivait
>
>> On 26 Oct 2011 13:14:34 GMT, Steph <pas.de.mail@serveur.invalid>
>
> That Steph above would be me
>
>> asked:
>
>> What is the make and model of the drive (not the drive itself, but
>> the whole assembly)?
>
> "QPS Multimedia" "USB 2.0" "Made in China" and a barcode and serial
> number is all identification I can find on the case. External
> dimensions (centimetres) are about 22x13x4.
>
> It appears QPS doesn't manufacture or distribute hard disk assemblies
> any more.
>
>> I've had to replace the power supplies for two of my external
>> drives, one Iomega and one Western Digital. It's not too
>> difficult to find replacement power supplies. I found very
>> reasonable power supplies on Amazon. I bought Hootoo Laptop
>> Battery Chargers, which seem to work well and have been reliable
>> for over a year. Hootoo makes power supplies for many makes and
>> models.
>
> Good to know, still I'd like to be able to get the drive out of the
> stupid case first !
> As for the power adapter again, its DIN-format connector is a dual
> 5V/12V output - 4 pins. Does this seem like a standard arrangement ?
>
>
>> Cheers,
>> Dave M

Yeah, that's not an uncommon arrangement. My Iomega USB drive has such a
connector. If you can't find a suitable power supply, there is another good
alternative.
First thing you have to do is to determine the type of interface the disk
drive has (Parallel or Serial, ATA/IDE, etc.). Then buy an external USB
enclosure kit for the drive. The external drive enclosures come with the
power supply, the correct interface for the drive and the USB interface to
your PC. You just remove your drive from the existing enclosure, mount it
into the new enclosure and plug it in.
Ebay lists lots of them. Assuming that your hard drive is a 3.5" unit, try
this search:
http://www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?_nkw=3.5%22+USB+External+%28IDE%2CSATA%29+Hard+Drive+Enclosure&_sacat=58058&_sop=1&_dmd=1&_odkw=3.5%22+USB+External+IDE+Hard+Drive+Enclosure&_osacat=58058&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1

Opening the case can be tedious. First, make sure that all the screws are
removed. Be sure to look under any labels on the case; there might be a
screw under it. The caase halves might slide apart rather than pop up.
Push the halves apart in opposite directions and pry them apart. If the
case halves are ultrasonically welded, you'll have to destroy the case to
get them apart. No big deal, since it will be discarded anyway, just be
careful not to damage the drive inside. Once inside, remove the mounting
screws and disconnect the cables. Remove the drive and place it into the
new enclosure. Fasten it with the correct hardware. Connect the cables,
put the enclosure together, plug it in, and you should be off & running.

Seagate now owns Maxtor, so you'll need to go to
http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/ and find the datasheet for your
disk drive. That should give you the interface info you need to get the
right external enclosure kit. You should be able to find a good enclosure
kit on Ebay or Amazon. Prices vary; $15 - $50. Your chioce.

--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 9:16 am
From: Dave M


On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:08:20 -0500, "Dave M"
<dgminala4444@mediacombb.net> wrote:

>Ninho wrote:
>> Dave M <masondg4499@comcast.net> écrivait
>>
>>> On 26 Oct 2011 13:14:34 GMT, Steph <pas.de.mail@serveur.invalid>
>>
>> That Steph above would be me
>>
>>> asked:
>>
>>> What is the make and model of the drive (not the drive itself, but
>>> the whole assembly)?
>>
>> "QPS Multimedia" "USB 2.0" "Made in China" and a barcode and serial
>> number is all identification I can find on the case. External
>> dimensions (centimetres) are about 22x13x4.
>>
>> It appears QPS doesn't manufacture or distribute hard disk assemblies
>> any more.
>>
>>> I've had to replace the power supplies for two of my external
>>> drives, one Iomega and one Western Digital. It's not too
>>> difficult to find replacement power supplies. I found very
>>> reasonable power supplies on Amazon. I bought Hootoo Laptop
>>> Battery Chargers, which seem to work well and have been reliable
>>> for over a year. Hootoo makes power supplies for many makes and
>>> models.
>>
>> Good to know, still I'd like to be able to get the drive out of the
>> stupid case first !
>> As for the power adapter again, its DIN-format connector is a dual
>> 5V/12V output - 4 pins. Does this seem like a standard arrangement ?
>>
>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Dave M
>
>Yeah, that's not an uncommon arrangement. My Iomega USB drive has such a
>connector. If you can't find a suitable power supply, there is another good
>alternative.
>First thing you have to do is to determine the type of interface the disk
>drive has (Parallel or Serial, ATA/IDE, etc.). Then buy an external USB
>enclosure kit for the drive. The external drive enclosures come with the
>power supply, the correct interface for the drive and the USB interface to
>your PC. You just remove your drive from the existing enclosure, mount it
>into the new enclosure and plug it in.
>Ebay lists lots of them. Assuming that your hard drive is a 3.5" unit, try
>this search:
>http://www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?_nkw=3.5%22+USB+External+%28IDE%2CSATA%29+Hard+Drive+Enclosure&_sacat=58058&_sop=1&_dmd=1&_odkw=3.5%22+USB+External+IDE+Hard+Drive+Enclosure&_osacat=58058&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1
>
>Opening the case can be tedious. First, make sure that all the screws are
>removed. Be sure to look under any labels on the case; there might be a
>screw under it. The caase halves might slide apart rather than pop up.
>Push the halves apart in opposite directions and pry them apart. If the
>case halves are ultrasonically welded, you'll have to destroy the case to
>get them apart. No big deal, since it will be discarded anyway, just be
>careful not to damage the drive inside. Once inside, remove the mounting
>screws and disconnect the cables. Remove the drive and place it into the
>new enclosure. Fasten it with the correct hardware. Connect the cables,
>put the enclosure together, plug it in, and you should be off & running.
>
>Seagate now owns Maxtor, so you'll need to go to
>http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/ and find the datasheet for your
>disk drive. That should give you the interface info you need to get the
>right external enclosure kit. You should be able to find a good enclosure
>kit on Ebay or Amazon. Prices vary; $15 - $50. Your chioce.

I should add that you should make sure that the kit you buy does indeed
contain all the necessary parts; case, interface, cables and power
supply. Also, make sure that it will fit your hard drive - 2.5" or
3.5". One such kit to look at:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-External-HDD-Hard-Disk-Drive-Enclosure-IDE-USB-2-0-Black-nice-/180745093613?pt=PCC_Drives_Storage_Internal&hash=item2a153f41ed

Cheers,
Dave M


==============================================================================
TOPIC: broke my own circuit - 4017 decade/Johnson counter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/33e2c80674da2af0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 7:46 am
From: DewDude


so im building a simple light chaser circuit out of a 4017 counter and
555 timer. the 555 timer circuit works. my problem is with thr 4017.

according to several schematics ive seen...and behavior in electronics
workbench/multisim, connecting the reset to output q4 causes the chip
to reset when q4 fires.

real-life behavior i different. if reset is connected to anything
except just ground, all it'll do is blink the first led.

any suggestions?


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 12:39 pm
From: "Ian Field"

"DewDude" <dewdude@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:da4cb5a9-8d74-4143-b3ee-68d91454a243@q35g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> so im building a simple light chaser circuit out of a 4017 counter and
> 555 timer. the 555 timer circuit works. my problem is with thr 4017.
>
> according to several schematics ive seen...and behavior in electronics
> workbench/multisim, connecting the reset to output q4 causes the chip
> to reset when q4 fires.
>
> real-life behavior i different. if reset is connected to anything
> except just ground, all it'll do is blink the first led.
>
> any suggestions?
>

You're resetting from the wrong end of the counter.


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 1:12 pm
From: DewDude


On Oct 26, 3:39 pm, "Ian Field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:
> "DewDude" <dewd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:da4cb5a9-8d74-4143-b3ee-68d91454a243@q35g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>
> > so im building a simple light chaser circuit out of a 4017 counter and
> > 555 timer. the 555 timer circuit works. my problem is with thr 4017.
>
> > according to several schematics ive seen...and behavior in electronics
> > workbench/multisim, connecting the reset to output q4 causes the chip
> > to reset when q4 fires.
>
> > real-life behavior i different. if reset is connected to anything
> > except just ground, all it'll do is blink the first led.
>
> > any suggestions?
>
> You're resetting from the wrong end of the counter.

i dont see how. the counter will start with output q0....it
automatically cycles back to q0 after firing q9, the reset is supposed
to allow me to recycle back to q0 after firing a specific number of
leds.

explain your reasoning or stfu.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: home-brew Freon TF substitutes?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 8:59 am
From: Jim Yanik


"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:H4Jpq.2929$M61.1622@newsfe09.ams2:

>
>
> "Jeff Layman" <JMLayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:j83vnf$cjh$2@news.albasani.net...
>> On 24/10/2011 13:33, Nomen Nescio wrote:
>>> I last saw this in the mid 1990s. I knew a warehouse that still
>>> had some drums hidden away...
>>> Bloody best cleaner ever. Although some liked Genklene,
>>> now also banned.
>>> There are some commercial spray cleaners that claim to be
>>> almost as good. I would like something in bulk for dipping
>>> computer boards. Isopropyl alchohol is suggested by some,
>>> but has 9% water usually.
>>
>> Not sure where you are, but isopropyl alcohol is usually available
>> 99.9% pure, with a negligible water content.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jeff
>
> I'd go along with that. The stuff specified as 'electronics grade' is
> typically at least 99.7% to get that rating
>
> Arfa
>
>

the IPA commonly available at drug stores is usually 90-91%,I believe,at
least in the US.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Peavey Valve King 212
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ec305ab9075c184c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 9:25 am
From: Cydrome Leader


Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
> N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> You would think that a 10W resistor marked on the schematic as a safety
>> device would mean that any wiring would be loomed away from it, not laying
>> along its length. Another safety issue with these amps, I was trying to see
>> where the chunky HT wire to the output amp was, but nothing obvious. It is
>> in the grey ribbon umbilical , >500V rating on that stuff? I doubt it. 6
>> months old , no warning signs of crap solder used, no PbF / RoHS /N or even
>> the CE mark for this , for export, 240V structured amp, just a wheelie bin
>> with an X over it.
>
> speaking of stupid symbols, what's the circle with an arrow possibly
> indicating some sort of rotation and a number "10" inside mean?

It's not a plastic type designator, I've seen it stamped on metal stuff
too.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: issue with electret condenser mic
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0f83e591aedae6bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 26 2011 11:19 am
From: madscijr


Anyone?


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