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Friday, 5 January 2018

Word of the year for 2018

There's a thing around this time of year where people come up with one word for the coming year.
I tried this last year but nothing relalt resonated for me.
However this year its easy, because the word if really obvious to me and for me it is
BALANCE

This has two main aspects for me of HEALTH and LIFESTYLE.

Healthwise I've had problems with dizziness and balance since July 2017 and whilst it doesn't seem to be anything serious (I've had lots of tests and appointments) its taking a long time to get completely better, so my end goal here is to have improved balance and be able to go for walks, use stairs, function well in busy environments etc. I now have some exercises to do and am seeing some improvement which is good.

Lifestyle wise I want to balance work, home, family, relationships, hobbies, health etc by putting appropriate time and effort into each area. Here I want to be sensible and look after myself.

Have you got a word for 2018 and do you find the approach helpful?

Thanks Ruthie

Thursday, 4 January 2018

New Look 6216 Trousers finished

New Look 6216 Trousers finished. They are made from a teal linen.
These are super comfortable and will be great casual trousers.
They look better on me than on the hanger and are a lot more turquoise than my terrible indoor night shot shows them.

Things I did differently (mostly for my own notes).
I cut a size 18 and sewed with a slightly smaller seam allowance.
I added both at the crotch and centre back height on the back piece , and then tapered the centre back seam to give a right angle again (though would replace this with a wedge next time).  I would also scoop the crotch a little next time.
I omitted the drawstring, and only used elastic. I would do this again.
I topstitched the waistband above the seam and below the fold to give a nice casing for the elastic. I would do this again.
I turned up the hems with a narrow hem as I think I will want to roll them up sometimes and it looks better. I would do this depending on the fabric used.
Next time I would add interfacing to the pocket edge, but for this version I like the pockets as they are.
I'm going to have to do a rack shot when everything is done to show the colours better.

Wednesday, 3 January 2018

Trousers - in progress

I decided for the next teal piece I wanted trousers, and am using some lovely teal linen for them.
I really like this pattern, (New Look 6216)  and plan to also make the top view C. It feels relaxed and current, and has nice slim legs on the trousers. It wasn't that hard to construct so I could see a careful beginner having good results with it.

Here's where I have got to so far today. This was far enough to actually try them on and discover they'll be OK.

I still need to add the waistband/elastic casing, add elastic, press, hem, and etc.
I'm probably going to scoop the back crotch a little and I'm definitely leaving out the drawstring, but they are large enough and should be wearable, I'll finesse the back crotch further in future versions.
I'm also planning a skirt in Butterick 3972, which makes the teal plan look like this.

Teal Fabrics

I pulled out all the teal fabrics and was a bit shocked when I laid them all out for the photo here
Three of these are ones I have used already but have some yardage remaining, two are for the coat, and another is the coat lining and another is just ribbing. Some are many metres, others only small remnants.
I could sew only teal garments for the entire year and still not be done!

There are many exciting options to mix the fabrics together in garments, for instance contrast sleeves and etc

I need to have a good think before I cut out the next teal garment.
---------------------
Trying to keep myself on course with the SWAP plan, I need to avoid the various print fabrics (both above and others I have since found in the resources) and concentrate on everything going with this tweedy fabric which is to be a cardigan jacket
It has teal, burgundy and a lighter colour with a dark brown ground and is attractive on both sides. The other side is more brown and less of the colours.

Tuesday, 2 January 2018

Teal flared midi skirt

I thought the Teal collection could do with some bottoms as well as all those tops, so here is a simple skirt.

Years ago I traced the skirt panel from a RTW dress I liked. The original dress is long gone but I still have that pattern piece. Here I've cut the front on the fold, and the centre back has a seam. I've also added a yoke which includes an elastic waistband. I used 2" wide elastic zigzagged to the jersey, folded over and stitched at the saides and back.
It can also be worn with the previous knit top for a dress look but that's a lot of tealiness!
I've styled it with a necklace and belt to give a bit more shape and sense of outfit.
I fill the tummy and hips out a bit more than Doris the Dummy does, but it gives the overall idea.

Monday, 1 January 2018

Teal scoop neck top

Another iteration of the dropped shoulder, scooped neck top.
Here I used a mystery knit fabric which was very hard to sew, and would not co-operate with the overlocker (serger) or the coverhem (though I did just manage the sleeve hems on the coverhem).
So it is not overlocked inside and the main hem is sewn with a straight stitch and then pressed.
It pressed quite well so maybe its a dense cotton knit. It is pretty much identical on both sides and very resistant to needles.
The Teal Winter collection so far! I'm wondering if I can make it a Teal Ten Piece collection, just add a skirt, a couple of pairs of trousers, a coat and another layering piece.....

SWAP 2018

I am hoping to revisit SWAP 2018 and regenerate my interest in fitting something into the rules.
Rules can stifle or encourage creativity, and I'm really hoping to display the latter repsonse.

This was my original plan to meet the rules which can be found here
http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=1082.0

Plan:
Choose two neutral colors
Add one accent color and two prints OR two accent colors and one print
Make at least three garments from each neutral color
Make at least one garment from each accent color
Make at least one garment from each print
Remaining two garments may be made from any one or combination of your neutrals, accent(s) and/or print(s)
Create multiple outfits of at least two garments that work for your personal style
Each garment must work with a minimum of two outfits

Optional Accessory: add one self-made accessory as a signature piece that works with at least two of  your outfits

Rules
Sewing begins on 26 December 2017 and ends 30 April 2018
One garment may be started on 1 November 2017 and completed prior to 26 December 2017
One garment may be completed prior to 1 November 2017
One RTW garment may be included
Garments knitted, crocheted or woven by you may be included (limit of two since we are a sewing site)
Garments such as poncho, cape or wrap must include at least two pattern pieces, be one of your knitted, crocheted or woven items or have stitch work done by you to be considered a garment (otherwise it’s an accessory)
Neutrals do not need to be the same fabric, however, they do need to work together  **
One garment may be completed prior to 1 November 2017
Candidates (can have only one, or could have something even older)

17th October - burgundy sweater knit top
24th October - burgundy spot top
 30th October - burgundy top
 

One garment may be started on 1 November 2017 and completed prior to 26 December 2017

Candidates (can have only one)

5th November - claret cardigan
5th November - burgundy print top
19th November - teal velvet tops

23rd December - teal cardigan


Sewing begins on 26 December 2017 and ends 30 April 2018

29th December - turquoise top
and obviously sewing will be ongoing until 30th April (which seems a VERY long way away at the moment).
I will decide later which two items make the premade slots as I really would have liked both of the cardigans, for some reason I thought the claret cardigan was completed early enough but sadly no.

Sunday, 31 December 2017

Coat ideas

I want to sew this coat from Prima Feb 2015.

I think the fabric requirements are somehow wrong through as it reckons 2.9m x 150cm wide fabric for the short coat but 1.7m x 140cm wide fabric for the long coat which I think is the wrong way round and the short one is too little.
The layout diagram has the belt piece running down the length of the fabric after the entire front and back, so I suspect the fabric requirements using this layout are actually 2.9m for the knee length coat and 2.7m for the jacket length coat.

I have two pieces of suitable fabric, both teal but slightly different.

One is 2.3m and the other 1.9 metres, so potentially I could mix the two, but I'm not sure if thats a good idea.
I could cut the side panels, sleeves and belt from the second fabric, or go more of a colour blocking route, where the bottom so much of each piece is the other fabric.
Of course I might be able to get it out of less fabric than they say, but it seems unlikely.
I'm going to add a lining also and have loads of a deep teal satin for that which will be luscious.

I have found a few images for ideas. none are exactly what I have in mind, but they give ideas.





Probably this bottom one is the closest as the colours are similar to one another and the colour blocking is in vertical rather than horizontal lines.

Saturday, 30 December 2017

Fabric and Sewing Goodies for 2018 Projects

I had a quick trip out to Economy Fabrics near Chesterfield, just off the M1 Junction 29. (Seriously its so near the junction its worth stopping for half an hour if you are going up/down the M1). There is free parking outside and in a car park a short distance away.
It wasn't very busy which was good for me (on a Saturday it is normally quite busy) and I picked out a few fabrics at £2 per metre, plus interfacing, wide elastic, opening zips and ribbon.
Light levels are a bit low so the photo has not come out very well. Apologies!
Top row (wovens)
left - red and white tweedy fabric for a jacket of some sort
right - pink and brown tartan with applique details, a very unusual fabric, a jacket or skirt?
Centre (haberdashery)
left - turquoise ribbon (sold by weight), and two open ended zips for jackets
centre - lots of interfacing in black and white rolled on a roll for me, 2m of 2" wide elastic.
Bottom (mostly knits)
far left - teal, brown and tan print knit for a top
centre left - teal and brown stretch lace for a top of some sort (sheer sleeves, lined bodice).
centre - a stretch woven fabric in plain brown, hopefully for trousers
centre right - teal and tan tie dye style knit, again probably a top
far right - a lovely sweater knit in burgundy, grey and cream (although it reads as pink), cardigan, will need care on hems.

Hopefully I can sew all of these up during 2018 and really make a good use of my purchases.

Friday, 29 December 2017

Turquoise dropped shoulder top

I'm using the self drafted drop shoulder top pattern again for this teal/turquoise tee. 
I used a mystery knit from deep within the stash. It sewed up beautifully. I have some left, enough for another top.

The dropped shoulder style (which Burda call overcut shoulders) has natural wrinkles under the arm which isn't everyone's taste, but I like these loose tops with curved hem and find them easy to wear.
In my head this is sewing for 2018, even though it is still December.

Thursday, 28 December 2017

2018 Sewing Plans

I'm not much one for looking back at what I've sewn, so no stats and summaries here.
You can look in the sidebar for some of the items I've made in 2017.

2018

6PACs
No particular contests in mind at the moment though I probably will do regular seasonal collections along the line of the 6PAC (/https://ejvc.wordpress.com/2009/04/22/seasonal-sewing-collections/).
I like to pick a colour and sew several garments before chnaging to a new colour way and this works well with 6PAC sewing.
Although I have planned a SWAP, I find the timeframe too long, so will probably do two smaller seasonal collections instead.

Linings
I want to make a simple lined coat from this Prima magazine pattern.

Plus draft and add a lining for an existing boiled wool jacket which is scratchy to wear, and add a lining to a partially constructed jacket. None of these have linings as part of the garment originally but I think they will be so much nicer to wear with them.

Trousers
In 2018 I want to have another go at trousers, using various patterns and what I have learned in the last year about my crotch curve shape.
I have Burda Fev 2010 #135 in progress.

Cardigan jacket
Develop a generic cardigan jacket pattern with dropped shoulders and band collar which I can sew both for myself and for charity. A one-size-works-for-many approach is what I have in mind.

RTW fast
The only challenge I've signed up for is the RTW fast, so I will not be buying any new clothes in 2018. However I can sew new items as well as wear the things i already have in the wardrobe.

Using existing supplies
I will try as much as possible to sew from the resources centre (aka the stash). I'll also try to use my leather scraps, beads, card blanks etc. as much as I can

Charity items
I am going to continue to sew and make items for the various charity craft sales. This also uses existing resources as much as possible, so I will be making more bags (as they've all gone) as well as some new things like wrapping paper storage bags and garden kneeler pads. I've also applied to a scheme which sews hospital PJs for sick kids but I've not heard yet if they want me. I might revisit candle making and try my hand at soap making.

Declutter and organise
Once again I'm going to make a concerted effort to declutter and oranise my sewing and craft supplies. I would love to find a meaningful place to donate things but don't really have anything at the moment.

What have you got planned for 2018?

Wednesday, 27 December 2017

Sew not buy in 2018

I came across this challenge and liked it.

http://goodbyevalentino.com/invitation-2/

What exactly is the Ready To Wear Fast?
The Ready to Wear Fast is a vow to abstain from buying clothes for one year. You will give up buying clothes from January 1 – December 31, 2018.  You may sew anything, and you may fabric shop as much as you would like!  The purpose is to Save Money and Improve Your Sewing Skills, but believe me, the rewards of the commitment will exceed your expectations.


I will generally try to sew from my large stash as I think that would be the wisest use of resources.
And I think I should be OK sticking to the rules. Even without a lot of sewing, I would still be able to get dressed for work, travel/walking, weekend etc for what I currently have, and some extra sewn stuff would add some nice variety.

I'm currently really enjoying Teal and Turquoise so I think I'll be sewing a few more pieces.

Saturday, 23 December 2017

Drop shouldered cardigan jacket

I wanted to develop my own cardigan jacket pattern with a drop shoulder which I could use for me, but also for the charity craft stall (in colours which don't work so well for me).
So I traced bits off a RTW cardigan, and looked at how other patterns were constructed and eventually came up with something of my own.
It has an angled shoulder seam, a dropped shoulder, long sleeve, back cut on fold and front which can have an integral or separate band. If the fabric edge is nice and also the reverse attractive I can use the cut on band and have a casual shawl collar, but otherwise I can have a separate neckband.
I've used a sofa throw I bought from Dunelm Mill and used the ribbing on the hem and cuffs, and the finished edge as the edge of the front panels. It is two layers of knit woven together and very thick.
Not quite sure what I'll do with the leftovers as it has no ribbing, perhaps a sweatshirt with sewn on ribbing, or a cushion!
Also works well with the two tops I already sewed, though its so thick I'd be pretty warm in them.


Friday, 22 December 2017

More fleece hats

These fleece hats (all 12 of them) were made from a single Ikea Skogsklocka blanket which costs £4.50. I think that's pretty good for a piece of nice quality fleece 130cm x 170cm.
These are a special request made for a colleague of DBF's who organises things for the cubs and scouts, I think maybe for the leaders as I only made adult and teen sizes, none for young kids.
It does get boring making lots in the same colour though I did it assembly line style, and measured and pinned the brims whilst watching TV.
The fleece was really wrinkled from being squished tightly in the packaging and even with a rinse and spin in the machine and 24hrs on the line the wrinkles only dropped out a little. Hopefully it won't be too noticable when they are being worn.

Thursday, 21 December 2017

Late Winter Sewing - 6 piece collection plans

Elizabeth of The Fabulous Dr. E's Fabulous Blog has an approach to sewing 6 garments every 3 months which would gradually build up into a self sewn wardrobe. She lives in a seasonal location (now Sweden, previously London) and back in 2009 suggested these guidelines.
https://ejvc.wordpress.com/2009/04/22/seasonal-sewing-collections/

I am a big fan, and although I have done multiple SWAPs and other wardrobe type sewing I have found this approach the most managable as you end up with stuff that's seasonally appropriate, goes together and achievable if you don't overcomplicate things.

WINTER
Trousers (dark neutral)
2 Tops (1 to match, 1 to complement)
2 layering tops/cardigans/jackets (1 to match, 1 to complement)
Coat (dark netural)


I generally sew 6 things in the same colour scheme, not necessarily following Elizabeth's suggestions and haven't made a coat before even though I have done multiple winters, so I thought I should change that this winter.

So my plans for winter are:-
Trousers (dark neutral) - dark teal
2 Tops (1 to match, 1 to complement) - one teal, one an accent, possibly my pink
2 layering tops/cardigans/jackets (1 to match, 1 to complement) - one teal, one an accent, possibly my pink
Coat (dark netural) - teal wools

The tops would be simple knits, and the layers probably cardigans, or simple cardigan style jackets.
The trousers will be the current style I am fine tuning from a burda magazine and the coat will be made from several wool fabrics in my stash.

Here's what that might look like.

The tops will probably be my current favourite pattern which I traced off a favourite RTW sweater and modified a little. It has dropped shoulders and a loose boxy fit.
The cardigans will be a new style of my own making which I plan to draft to fit over the tops.
I'm hoping to come up with a 'one style works for many' that I can make up in lots of fabrics and sell on my charity craft stall. I'll write more about what I have planned on that another day.