Vitor Froimtchuk surfing Backdoor/ hawaii march 2012

Hawaiian Times

My hawaian season was great. Had lots of fun.Me and my mate Bruno had a house in front of kamieland (fred p's dad house) and had the ocean in front of us 24/7. rocky point was our favourite spot however we were always checking pipeline to see how de conditions were.the best pipe we've got was 8 feet with occasional 12 feet sets coming from 2nd reef (we saw 2!).we had nort swell so pipe was good but off the wall was getting all the sets.backdoor was kind closing out but i thought i might have a go on the rights due to the intense crowd going left.as you can see (picture) i got some good ones behind the peak.this day the locals were going mad (as always).shane dorian and derek ho were spliting the peak on the biggest ones.the bodyboard crew was doing their job pretty well too.tamega,hubbard and player were the stand outs.

Out of the water my main focus was to eat well and take care of my damaged boards and bones. i had a bad elbow from hitting the reef at pipe and a bad neck from a too soft matress at home.i kicked the reef twice at rocky rights and got my big toes´s nails lift (both).Broke one stick and took the fin out of another one at rocky rights, it's pretty shallow there. Our feasts were great, as Bruno's wife is good at the kitchen and had our belly full most of the time with all the american good easy to make food.

We had a car and 3 bikes to explore the land. We went shopping at Waikiki twice and had great dinners at the many 5 stars hotels. We also dinner at Olas,Turtle Bay Resort beach restaurant. I invited 2 of my friends who are living at the North Shore, Ariana e Silvia Nabuco. On the down days we went snorkling at shark's cove and went for a swim with turtles at Waime Bay. The day was amazing. Blue clear sky, cristal clear water and warm sunny day. After 11 years since my first visit to Oahu, it made me realize how good is to feel the real aloha feeling and to enjoy the aloha state with a aloha state of mind.

Mahalo Hawaii, i will be back!