Today's our main day for exploring Phnom Penh.. There were 4 must see attractions in Phnom Penh which were quite a distance apart from each other, so we decided to rent a tuk-tuk driver for the whole day..

On our way there, we caught sight of this guy who was, i suppose, on his way to the market with his vegetables.. =P
First stop,
Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre..

Choeung Ek used to be a Longan Orchard, and till now, you still can see the lush greenery of the orchard, which hides the gruesome killings and deeds done here..
Choeung Ek was used as a killing field and mass burial site during the Khmer Rouge regime. Usually prisoners were detained at detention centres all over, including the infamous Tuol Sleng Museum (which i'll talk about later), before being brought over to Choeung Ek, where they would be killed and buried in mass graves.. After the regime was brought down, the government started clearing the land, and at the end of 1980, 86 out of the 129 mass graves were unearthed, and 8985 corpses were found.. The government have preserved the skeletal bones of the victims of the genocide in this memorial stupa..

The memorial stupa has more than 10 levels, with the bottom level containing the clothes of the victims, the next few levels - the skulls, and the higher levels, the other bones of the victims unearthed.. A closer look at the skull bones, you can almost hear the voices of the dead - a bullet hole in the skull, or a gash fracture reflecting a vicious slash from an axe/knife, pathological fracture in skull due to trauma..
It's just really sad that such brutalities could actually be performed..

They actually used the serrated edges of the stem of this plant to, well, kill people by cutting their neck vessels..

More equipment of brutality - these were ankle chains. the prisoners were chained by their ankles to the steel rods, and they had to lie opposite each other to sleep..

The Memorial Stupa..
As i was saying, the whole place was used as a killing field and a mass grave burial site..

This is one of the many mass graves found on the site.. If you read the sign closely, this is the mass grave where 166 headless victims were found.. According to the guide, this grave contains a lot of soldiers, who were thought to be traitors and betrayed the regime.. Hence, they were beheaded and buried..
Other mass graves contained children, women, and all sorts of people from different walks of life.. After the victims had been killed, the soldiers would scatter DDT into the graves.. This had 2 purposes: to mask the smell of the decaying bodies, and to kill the remaining victims who might still be alive..
Other than the mass graves found so far, there are also other undug graves in Choeung Ek, including those buried under this otherwise, serene small lake..

So after abt an hour of wandering around the killing fields, we decided to head over to the
Tuol Sleng Museum..
Now, as mentioned above, the Tuol Sleng Museum was used as a detention centre for the prisoners before they were brought to the killing fields. Previously a school, the nondescript buildings and compounds similarly masked the atrocities performed here..

Nondescript compounds of the Tuol Sleng Museum, formerly a school..
With 4 main buildings, prisoners were held in different rooms, in individual or mass cells, where they would be tortured and forced to make confessions of their "crimes"..


The windows were grilled with steel to prevent prisoners from escaping, or committing suicide..

Linken trying (very hard, obviously) to understand the panels explaining the history of this place..

The playground / assembly area, where in the foreground you see that wooden structure with 2 big earthen jars? Well, the regime would string pple up by their arms onto the wooden beams, then repeatedly dunk them into the earthen jars of water till they passed out.
The other buildings held exhibits which tell of the brutality carried out on these grounds.. From methods of torture, to isolation and prison rooms.. Photos of the numerous victims served to put face to the countless who passed through here before dying in the killing fields.. Stories from the people on the ground..
The 3rd building was especially scary though..

This was the only building with the corridors of all 3 levels covered up with barbed wires to prevent prisoners from committing suicide..
The inside was equally creepy.. There were individual cells, made of either bricks or wood, and it was really
dark in there, even in daytime when we went..

Well, it looks bright here cos of my flash.. And so someone commented that I shouldn't haf switched on my flash (but hey, that was my original intention.. The place was way creepy. Glad i wasn't walking that building alone)
Yeah, walking through all 4 buildings with the poster panels and exhibits, was truly an experience. Combined with the earlier trip to the killing fields, it reflects only a small percentage of the horror that went on during the regime. (there were other detention centres and killing fields throughout Cambodia) What was disturbing to note was that this detention centre was actually a school previously, and was actually situated smack in the centre of a rather built up area.. It's not as if it was located in some deserted area where nobody passes by daily.. And the number of people tortured, before being killed - its just so sad..
It is heartening to note that efforts are now being made to preserve and remember the people who have died during the regime, and serve as a reminder to future generations of the atrocities performed, so that such things may hopefully never happen again..
**********
So after a heavy morning of sightseeing, we decided to go grab some lunch.. On the way, we passed by the
Independence Monument on our tuk-tuk.. The monument was off-limits, so the best we could do was a photo?

Headed off to the Friends' Cafe for lunch. Friends' Cafe is a cafe with a slightly different cause - proceeds from the cafe go towards charity! In addition, the cafe is a way to teach the kids cooking and waitering skills, so that they will be able to get jobs at other restaurants when their training stint ends.

Real nice restaurant, with beautiful paintings.. Especially liked the water painting of the Angkor Wat on the wall here..
Post-lunch was the
National Museum, which housed many stone relics and carvings brought from the temples around Cambodia.. It had real nice architecture, although the inside, well, was just like any other museum, which was a bit dry with all the exhibits..


Oh, a linga, here as part of this structure which used to contain water, erm, for ablutions?
Anyway, we headed off to the
Royal Palace pretty soon after that. Well, you don't exactly get to walk into the palace itself, but we could pretty much explore some of the palace grounds..


Palace grounds! =)


Oh, and this building which looked a little out of place in terms of architecture compared to the other buildings, was a gift by the French to Cambodia, previously.. Kinda explains the European architectural influence..
Anyway, what was beautiful was the
Silver Pagoda!

Hhmmm.. no photography inside, so an outside picture will have to do..
The inside of the Silver Pagoda is lined with over thousands of silver plates on the floor! Yeah, you can actually see the silver plates on the floor, which give a metallic whack when you stamp a bit harder on the portions which are carpetted.. =P Anyway, the pagoda houses many Buddhist relics and other statues and gifts from dignitaries.. Apparently the steps up into the pagoda are made from Italian marble, the statues of Buddha inside are made with jewels such as emeralds, and even crystals! (according to the guidebook) Amazing..

Grounds outside the Silver Pagoda!
**********
Urf.. After quite a long day of heavy travelling and sight-seeing, we were bushed..

(I tink our tuk-tuk driver was pleased that he snagged a big customer for the day, though i wonder what he thought about us being uber-Singaporean and haggling the price down.. but hey, it was obviously marked up significantly for us tourists.. -_-)
We decided to head off to another dinner place with ambience..

Khmer Surin restaurant! With 3 levels, the middle level (which we're on) offers dining with cushions on the floor and candle lights (which someone extinguished with his water -_-"") The ambience was again quite festive with the dark wooden architecture, the leaves and palm fronds obscuring the hustle and bustle of the Phnom Penh roads, with cheery colours of cushions and table cloths to brighten the atmosphere..

Dinner to wrap up the day? Fish seems to be a recurring theme, only now that it's fish in a fish-shaped clay dish.. =p