Vogue 9081 Marcy Tilton Cardigan

I had planned to make this cardigan top to take on the cruise last year and now I am sorry I didn't get to it.

The stretch mesh fabric is from Super Cheap Fabrics and I think cost the whole of $2 per metre.  I bought a few metres as it was not very wide.

The pattern is Marcy Tilton Vouge 9081.  I checked the reviews and found a few of the dress but not of the draped cardigan.  I was worried when I first started making it that the reason might be because it was a confusing make but I followed the instructions methodically and got there in the end.  The only issue I had was the facing band was too long.  However that may have been user error - I might have stretched it a bit when I pressed it perhaps.

The mesh made the sew slow going as it was fine and would melt under the iron, so much pressing cloth action and practice pieces to make sure it would work.  The pattern instructions are detailed and have tips on sewing this fabric which I liked.  I didn't follow all of them but I did follow the one about sewing the sleeve and it worked very well.

Sewing a buttonhole in the mesh fabric caused me some concern and many practices but it worked.  I happened to find the perfect buttons in my stash.

Not a fast make, but a satisfying one... 

Holiday sewing

Just before Christmas I was offered an opportunity I could not turn down.  A chance to buy a great second hand Cover Stitch machine.  It was from a good sewing friend who has upgraded for various reasons so I was happy to take it off her hands.  It arrived just before Christmas but I had to wait until after Christmas to give it a try.  BTW it is a Brother 2340CV, before you ask. 

I have decided I will concentrate on getting the hemming reasonable before moving onto any attachments.  I played with wovens until I managed to get it stitching and then moved onto a jersey.  I know I should probably practice more before moving onto garments but I am too keen to sew all the things, so I made Vogue 1179 for the third time.  The first time here and the second time here.  I love this style of dress and it is so easy to wear.  The only difference in my third effort is that I had to make the collar less full as I did not have quite enough fabric.

...and to show the fabric in more detail...

 At this stage I won't show the CS hem but it is reasonable enough.

No more cover stitch again for a little while but I did do a make-over on a dress I sewed back in 2015 - this one.  I have worn this dress a lot as it is so cool and easy to wear.  However, being silk it didn't take to the heavy wearing and the fabric gave way at the backside.  I must sit too much!  I decide it was too good to throw away so I hope I will get a few more wears out if it as a top.  I marked and cut a new hemline (hi-lo) and sewed a narrow hem.

And as I am a bit of a messy sewist I decided I needed a little caddy to sit near my sewing machine to put all the bits and pieces I use often.  That way hopefully it will be easier to tidy up and dust than having it spread all over the place,

I did read some tutorials on-line and you can find many.  I just based this on those that I had read and made it to the size I needed.

A good way to use up some quilting fabric remnants.

Well I may be back soon with more cover stitch trials.

Ciao kittens... Happy 2018!

Summer top ... Vogue 9109

I made this top about two months ago but getting the photos is always the hard part.  Finally snapped some while at work the other day.  Still not great, but better than no blog post.

Very Easy Vogue 9109 made in a rayon from Spotlight.  I bought this pattern from Spotlight when they had a buy 3 patterns for $x sale.  I liked the Tessuti Ruby and had planned to buy it, but I needed one more pattern to get the discount.

The pattern is an easy make.  The only alteration I made was to drop the bust dart about an inch.  I like these patterns made for different bust sizes, not much alteration is required if you choose the right size.  

Excuse the crumples.  These photos were taken at the office.  In a perfect blog world I would get the photos taken when I first put it on.  The odd thing is that in real life the crumples aren't that bad, but the camera seems to emphasize them.

The back neck slit was supposed to have a hook and eye but I prefer the look of a button and loop.  I made a sewn thread loop.  

In summary, a sweet top that isn't hard to make.  I don't think it has as much "swing" as the Ruby, but still a lovely style.  I like that I can wear it on the week-ends or to the office.  

Autumn is settling in now so it won't get worn a lot so it is probably good that I got my photos when I did.

I also have made some more zipper bags for my Etsy shop.  Mainly made from remnant fabrics, the black is a lovely cotton I made a shirt for my son.  I have attached a charm as a zipper pull.  This one says "Me vs Me".  It would be great for a gym bag.

The blue print linen is a remnant from a second Ottobre pieced linen dress which I don't seem to have blogged about (like this one).

I plan to blog again soon with a Stylearc Mariln dress I made to attend the Brisbane Spoolettes High Tea... Ciao kittens.  

Endless Combinations.. continues ..Vogue 1020 Pants

I didn't win the Endless Combinations Contest, but was really happy to get as many votes as I did (thank you guys) and am also loving every piece I made in it.  The other entries were awesome and some people managed to sew a pile.  I only got my 4 items sewn, but love this style of sewing so will continue the theme.

My next item is a pair of black ponte pants.  I have a pair I made a few years ago but they have got pilled and old looking.  I used a Vogue wardrobe pattern - Vogue 1020. I never did blog about them as I was not happy with them, but for a pair of pants I wasn't happy with, I sure wore them a lot!  I liked the cut of the leg but the fit was not so good with a big dip at the back waist being the most annoying feature.

I decided to make the same pants and found I had a size 12 traced off (as well as the 10, which I think the old pants were).  I needed the 12 now so that saved me some time.  I decided I needed to improve the fit though, so I referred to the book Knits for Real People and cut my pieces as per their recommendation of adding 1" seams to the outside leg seam and inseam.  Then I sewed the front and back crotch to within a few inches of the inside seam and pinned the rest of the seams, so that the seams are on the outside.  You prepare your elastic by sewing it in the round and after very carefully pulling on the pants, the elastic is worn over the pants at the waist. Then pin and adjust, carefully!.  I ended up making a pile of adjustments.  I also referred to the Palmer Pletsch pants fitting book for help.

I didn't note down all the changes, but from memory, it went something like this:

• took a wedge out of the front crotch and sewed it deeper -short front crotch
• sewed the back crotch deeper and added some fabric to the top of the back waistband (I had added that to the tissue already as I knew I would need it) - this stopped the back waist dipping down.
• added width to the inseams at the top of the leg - front and back
• added to the seams from the knee down in the back piece - it was catching on my calves.

I can see why I was not happy with the fit of the first pair, even though I did wear them!

I had so many changes that after transferring them to the tissue, I then re-cut my pieces to reflect the changes and then sewed the pants. Probably still not perfect but so much better than my previous pair.  In the photos I have paired them with my last piece from the endless combinations contest - the New Look top, as well as my merino Jalie cardigan, a favorite piece from the year before last.  If you interested the necklace is from a little indy jewellry maker in Brisbane called Strat Designs.

Luckily Lincraft had a 50% off sale and I picked up this robust looking ponte at that time.  It cost me $11 so these pants are quite the bargain.  Winning!

And all this sewing is just in time as the blustery cold winds have arrived and it won't be long before I am living in my new coat!

Ciao kittens,  more endless combinations and a bit of costume crafting coming up...

Vogue 1179... the other one

This was the first Vogue 1179 I made, but I have only managed to get the photos organised.  We went away for a week-end to attend a family engagement party.  It was a great little dress to pack and take for this kind of occasion.

I look very white in these photos which were taken in our motel room.  My hair had the copper foils added the week before so I wonder if the strong colours of my hair and dress wash me out a little.

In this dress the fabric is lighter than the patterned one, and the fact I probably need a swayback alteration is more apparent.  Always interesting how different fabrics can sit so differently.

The patterned version is a big favorite of mine and has been worn to the office every week since I made it.  This teal one is reserved as my "going out" version.  Does anyone  else categorise their clothes that way?

Ciao.. activewear coming up next.

Vogue 1179 ... one of two...

I recently found Vogue 1179 on ebay (now OOP) after wanting it for awhile, so indulged and it was a worthwhile investment.  As per my last post I have made two of these, the first in a teal jersey and immediately a second version in a geometric print.  I have some photos of the second one here to show you.

The geometric print is a fabric I bought quite awhile ago and even though the colours are great for me, the print is a little large and imposing so it has been hard to find a pattern that I thought would work for it.  I am super impressed that this one works really well with it.

I choose one pattern size down from what was recommended by the Vogue size chart.  The main adjustment to the pattern was to increase the armhole size (by scooping it out at the bottom and taking that line back gradually to the armhole line near the shoulder.)   I also added 2" to the length as I prefer it to just cover the knee (and not be above the knee).

This fabric was very soft and spongy and when I put it on Diana (my dressmaker's dummy) before adding the collar, it seemed to instantly stretch at the front neckline with all the weight of the pleats.  So I quickly whipped it off and spent a night sleeping on it to work out how to ensure the neckline was not going to stretch out after adding the collar (more weight).  I ended up basting some clear elastic to the neckline just inside the seam allowance, so when the collar is sewn and overlocked on, the elastic is enclosed in the overlocked seam.  

BTW - I did what a lot of other reviewers did and just folded the collar wrong sides together and attached directly to the neckline instead of the multi-step process Vogue uses.  I also did not use elastic in the armholes, but just turned and sewed a narrow hem twice.

A really simple, quick make that gives you a easy to wear and stylish little frock I reckon.  

Ciao kittens, back soon with the teal version and then active wear... yep... back to active wear...

... and Vogue 9112 goes to...

Mae!  Please contact me via my email address on the side bar so I can get your new pattern posted to you.  I used the very scientific pull a piece of paper out of a hat type draw.   I hope you like it. 

And so this blog post has some pics I will give you some sneaky peaks of my next two makes.  It is Vogue 1179, now OOP but I have been wanting to try it for awhile and managed to snag one on eBay for a reasonable price.

The first one in a teal jersey...

... and obviously I like it as I made a second one in a largish geometric print I have had sitting in the stash for years.  Finally a pattern to suit it...

Once I wear them (road test them) and get some "proper" photos I will give you the full deets on the making of them.  Ciao kittens, thanks for playing along...

Stepping out of the comfort zone... Vogue 9112

I have been eyeing off Vogue 9112 for awhile and watching peoples makes around the interwebs.  I like the collar, the loose styling and the quirky piecing details but wasn't sure about the bell like effect if made in a firmer weave.  So in my quest for cool, loose dresses for summer, I though I should give it a shot.

I found a lovely rayon crepe (I think?) from The Fabric Store in Brisbane.  It is a good weight and a lovely drape but I wasn't sure how it would all go together.

My biggest hassle with the pattern was the sizing.  Using bust size I should be a large going by the sizing chart.  However I know enough about Vogue sizing that I bought the Xsmall-Small-Medium pattern size.  I then checked the finished bust size on the pattern piece and was still scratching my head about what size to choose.  The small would have been too snug at the bust but the medium had way more ease at the bust than I thought I needed.  I was a bit stuck.  They define Medium as a size 12-14 but it is obviously aimed right at the 14 and I think a 12 would have been the size I need (and the one I generally have made in Vogue patterns previously). 

I didn't want to make a muslin so I did the good old Palmer Pletsch tissue fit.  Taped the armholes and pinned the 2 front pieces and two back pieces together.  It seemed to fit alright across the bust but looked way too wide at the shoulders (particularly on the back armholes).  So I adjusted the pattern pieces for that by taking some width out of the armhole front and back.  I did have that thought that I find tissue fitting often gives a false impression of size, and it may be too big still, but at least it was within cooee of getting a reasonable fit.

So I cut out the gazillion pieces which took forever and got stuck into it.  The sewing is quite fun as it is like sewing puzzle pieces together.  If you make this dress watch you mark all the match points and keep your pattern pieces out as there are so many of them you will miss some!

The front and the backs are pieced and then sewed together at shoulder and side seams.  I tried it on for size at this point and I did need to take it in at the bust.  So I ran it in from the armhole to about the first notch.

My next challenge was the collar.  My fabric was not going to work in this collar but I had cut it anyway as I like the collar and thought it would be a bit plain without it.  It would not hold the height of the collar with the drape in my fabric and also the wrong side would show.  So I sewed the tucks in as per the pattern and pinned the collar to the dress, whereupon it pretty much collapsed as I expected it would.  So after a bit of head scratching I simply folded the collar RS together (folding along the length of it) and sewed the collar ends.  I then flipped it out and pressed, basted the raw edges together and attached the collar as per the instructions.  However I could not see the need to use the facing so I overlocked the seam together , pressed the seam toward the body and stitched it down.

My collar now is basically half the height of the collar but I like it as the higher collar probably would not have suited me as my neck is not very long.

So I am pretty happy with the outcome and think I will get a bit of wear out of this dress.  I don't think I will ever make another one though as it is quite distinctive.  So I want to pass the pattern on to someone.  If anyone in Australia (sorry not willing to pay for OS postage) wants it please let me know in the comments.  The pattern is cut at the Medium but I have tried to keep all the lines.  I have also narrowed the shoulder (taken width off at the armholes) a bit on the pattern pieces.  If  more than one person expresses interest I will do a draw.  I would like to mail it next week, so let me know by Monday 11th Jan if you are interested.  

My review is here.

One more pic to show the breezy nature of this rayon fabric...

Ciao kittens, please let me know if you are interested in having this pattern.  I am in de-clutter mode and would love to pass it on to someone rather than have it sit here in a box gathering dust.

Ponte jacket... Vogue 8795

OK, it might not be ponte, maybe it is a double knit???  The fabric was bought from Gorgeous Fabrics yonks ago so I cannot remember what the blend is.  However it is lovely and drapey with a gorgeous stripe/texture to it.  It worked really well for this pattern - Vogue 8795 a Marcy Tilton pattern for a lovely relaxed shape jacket with a really interesting front detail/collar thing going on.

Not much to say, I shortened the sleeves (maybe not by enough?) but otherwise it is true to the pattern.  Photos follow.  Credits for the photos to my buddy Kelley taken on a field trip to New Farm/Fortitude Valley which has a great fabric store and a great yarn store.  I bought heaps but have no photos of that. 

Photos now - tell me what you think of the style...

Ciao kittens... more soon!

Vogue 1197 ... ponte pants

I love me a good pair of ponte pants - elastic waistband and all.  Comfy like pj's, but smart enough to wear out.  The last two pair of ponte pants I made have worn out and I wasn't a big fan of the pattern I used.  This time I tried Vogue 1197.

The pattern gives a good outline of how to adjust the pants for fit and the adjustments I made were a full front thigh adjustment, shortened the leg length and lowered the waistband.

These pants have a lovely leg line...

and I love the hem detail...

This pattern is a winner - two pieces, easy to sew and great instructions on how to make the adjustments you need.  I have also made a black pair which I left slightly longer than this pair.  This pair was hemmed to the recommendation in the pattern and work well with flat shoes.

Two days, two posts... don't expect this to keep up... Ciao!

This ones a keeper! Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey top and skirt

After my last disappointing top, I have to show you a successful project... so successful I have bought more fabric to repeat this one.

The Rachel Comey top and skirt - Vogue 1247.  The skirt is made from a heavy denim I had in my stash and the top from a polyester fabric called Clip Georgette purchase at Lincraft recently.  I am wearing a cream knit camisole under the camisole.  I have made the skirt a size 12 and lengthened it by 3 inches  and the top was made in a size 10.

I am not going to say a lot about the sewing as there are many well written reviews of these pieces.

Loving this outfit and particularly the top...

Love the drape of this top, I think the pleats at the shoulders really work well for this top...

Pockets...

I tried it with a green (woven) camisole...

 Happy now....

Another bag... Vogue 8527

I have got into this bag making thing lately and wanted to show you my latest bag. It is from Vogue 8527.  This pattern has had great reviews and I think it is now OOP but if you have this one in your stash, you must make it up!

I made View D (the yellow one on the pattern cover).  I was making this bag to wear to an industry awards night and wanted it to go with my chocolate brown dress.  I bought some silk dupion (I think?) in a stone colour.  After reading some reviews and seeing how others had made their versions, I decided to use some left-over Nappa leather (from my obi belt) as the looped handle and the decorative strips on the front of the bag.  

I used quilted calico as the sew-in interfacing for the main body of the bag and silk organza as the interfacing for the facings, so it wouldn't be too bulky.  For the inside lining I used some left-over silk charmeuse from the lining of this jacket.  The lining is a bit too slippery and light weight and I would interface with a light weight fusible interfacing it if I was to use it again as a lining in a bag.  I also managed to put the lining in the wrong way so the pockets are on the front 'wall' of the bag instead of the back one.  Lucky I was making it for me, I can live with it (more than I could live with the thought of unpicking it).

This is how the outfit looked on the night (excuse the blurry i-phone photo).

I was really happy with this bag and felt very comfortable with it on the night.  I love this pattern and would recommend it highly.  I can see more bags in my future! ...Ciao for now!

Colette patterns Biegnet skirt

Finally finished and worn and photographed!!

The Colette patterns Biegnet skirt.  This has had great reviews and looks great on everyone.  I love it as much as everyone else.  It is a lot of work for a skirt, but so worth it!  It has taken me such a long time to make this I cannot remember too many details for this post.  The main points would be:

• pretty much made straight from the pattern.  I did muck up one of the front pieces by cutting it slightly too long and then wondered why the pieces did not fit together perfectly... however my fabric has a bit of stretch to it, so I just stretched it (as you do!).  When I went back to the pattern pieces to check the placement of the belt holders, I realised what I had done... it doesn't seem to have had huge ill effects on this skirt... but I have fixed the pattern piece for next time!
• I used a rayon-poly-lycra woven with enough stretch to make this skirt super-comfortable.  The lining is a rayon.
•  I did muck up one of the buttonholes (not sure what happened there) but with a lot of unpicking and a bit of interfacing and some stitching over, it seems to be ok now... phew!

 I decided to cover my own buttons...so this was the button factory...

I interfaced the fabric for the buttons with a light interfacing to try and minimise the shiny metal showing through.

The fabulous lining in this skirt, which is a bit of work, but makes it feel great to wear...

The only other interesting point (to me anyway) was that I finally decided to use my sewing machine feet and used my blind hem foot.  After looking on the Internet as to how to use it was easy-peasy... why haven't I used it before?

Love this skirt...

...and my new top!  This outfit felt so comfortable to wear all day.

Parting shot.. I had a great mail day today.

A beautifully made coin purse from a great sewing buddy and a pattern for an on-line sewing course .... and no bills! ..Ciao!