I See London, I See France

We last saw our teenage heroes sleeping on the train to Paris. 

Well, when we got to Paris, we were in for a culture shock. We knew that Parisians aren't fans of Americans, but as soon as I stepped off the train, I made that situation worse. My bag got away from me and bumped into a man on a walkway. The look he gave me drew blood (mine, not his). I apologized, of course, in English because I was too flustered to remember I was supposed to say "pardon". I will add that we tried so hard to be polite in Paris, sprinkling our communication with plentiful "Bonjour"s, "Pardon"s and "Merci"s. , but any reciprocal kindness was such an anomaly that it shocked us when it happened. 

Anyway, after the suitcase debacle, I started doing what YouTube had taught me to do. I needed to find a weird photo booth for our transit passes. It took awhile to get our mugshots on account of the first photo booth being broken. The second one smelled like urine, but it produced these beauties:

And then, on to finding a ticket agent who spoke enough English (because my French is very minimal) that we could communicate that we needed a week long transit pass. It was all worth it in the end because we ended up only paying about $30 per person for unlimited transit for the week. 

Now, all this had taken longer than anticipated so by the time we left Gare du Nord, rush hour traffic had started. So, now, not only were we Americans in Paris, we were Americans with a week's worth of luggage on the Metro at rush hour. Many dirty looks were received. By the time we got to the hotel, we had started to build up an immunity to the judging glares. 

Luckily, we chose a hotel that advertised itself as being friendly to English speakers and so we were able to relax when we got there. 

Also, look at the view outside our window! We stayed in the St. Germain de Pres neighborhood within view of St. Germain herself. The neighborhood was perfect for our family. 

Immediately upon arrival, we headed for the Eifel Tower. The weather forecast was garbage for every day in Paris after our arrival day, so we knew we had to get in our most important outdoor activity that night. 

There are multiple ways to get to the top of the tower. We (I) opted to get tickets to climb to the "second floor" and take the elevator to the top. This option was very hard on the kids, but I am even more immune to their whining than I am to the eye-daggers of the French. 

The views were great, the climb well worth it. 

By the time we got down, the tower had been lighted. 

And, then, we walked across the Seine to have some crepes on the Trocodero while the tower sparkled in the background. It was just before the moment captured below that I finished my crepe and threw the wrapper away - with my credit card, a fact I would discover the next morning. You know all those ads for credit cards where they overnight a new card to your hotel? Well, they're crap. Total lies. 

Anyway, let's not ruin the moment with the details. 

Another magical moment in Paris: We got back on the Metro near the Trocodero. The train crossed back over the Seine, giving us one more spectacular view of the Eifel Tower while it carried us to our hotel. Truly amazing. 

While the people of Paris lived up to their reputation, the food did as well. We only had 3 full days in Paris so we regretfully couldn't eat everything we wanted to. But we really gave it a go.

I had multiple pains au chocolat while in Paris because I just couldn't help myself. This one was the best - from a small bakery called "Josephine" near our hotel. I will dream of this pastry for years to come. There was a cartelization situation on the outside. It was poetry. 

I am not a fan of macarons. I now know that's because I'd never had them from Peirre Hermes on the Champs Elysees. Now I have. And they are clouds of complex beauty.  I still hate the gummy macarons I can get in the grocery store. 

We met Chris' cousin for dinner at a creperie. We hadn't seen her in years because, well, Paris is a long way from Wyoming. It was wonderful to see her and equally as wonderful to enjoy some authentic crepes. It was also great to have someone with us to assist with the language barrier for a couple hours. 

While we did not actually eat at a McDonald's in France, it was fun to walk by and check out how different they are. Can I just say how much I appreciate the variety of sweets in France? We were never more than a few steps from a delicious confection. 

Okay, so below is pictured my favorite place in Paris. My favorite should be some great landmark, but it is a grocery store on steroids. Next to the Bon Marche is a wonderland called "Le Grand Epicerie". We love going to grocery stores in foreign countries because they really showcase what people eat on a daily basis. 

But this place was extra special. 

We came away with a huge assortment of gourmet sweets and enough prepared food to keep us uncomfortably full for the rest of the day. 

Almost (but not quite) as wonderful as the food of Paris was all the beauty. 

We spent a rainy morning at the Louvre. I'm a little bit reluctant to admit that I found the building more interesting than the art it houses. 

I think the biggest reality check was the Mona Lisa. Small, behind glass, in front of a black partition, and swamped by crowds. I'm not sure I'm educated enough in the significance of art to really appreciate such things. 

The Jardin du Luxembourg was an incredible place. Just steps from our hotel, it was exactly how I imagined Paris would be. 

That same day we visited the Arc de Triomphe. There was a bit of awe overload happening. 

We really wished we could have seen Notre Dame before the fire. But even from a distance, and even severely damaged, it was still gorgeous. 

And, yes, the weather was garbage, but how often do you get to see Sacre Coeur in the snow? I think this was my favorite building in Paris. It was so sacred inside. We lit candles and enjoyed the beautiful peace. 

And then, we wandered the streets of Montmarte and sipped hot chocolate. 

What trip to Paris would be complete without buying a beret?

The kids looked super adorable. 

You know what else is required during a trip to Paris? (at least if you're in our family)

Disneyland... of course!

Space Mountain Paris is head and shoulders above the two American Space Mountains. The inclined hydraulic launch changes everything. It is so fast and so fun, that it may have caused an adult female member of our family to vomit after the second run. But she still had the time of her life. 

We were super excited for Ratatouille. We just missed the opening in Disney World after it got pushed back duetocovid. At least we now know we weren't missing out. 

During our time in Disneyland, it was so cold that we went for hot chocolate three times in one day and we spent $200 in gloves, hats, and hoodies. But it was gorgeous and uncrowded. 

Even the Tower of Terror is beautiful in Paris. 

And, because it is an all-weather park, there are two "arcades" running down main street. These were a great place to get out of the rain and snow and they fit in with the incredible aesthetic of the park. 

I mean, just look at how stunning that castle is. 

And one more shot at night, under the gathering storm that was beginning to shoot tiny pellet snow at us. How many people get to experience snow at a Disney Park? I'll count myself as fortunate. 

We were on the fence as to whether or not to visit Disneyland. I'll admit, Space Mountain factored heavily into our decision.  At the end of the day, I think we made the correct choice. Jane said it was the best day of her life. Admittedly, that's not the first time she's said that and it won't be the last. But, all hyperbole aside, it was a darn good day. 

The morning after Disneyland, the moment we'd been dreading finally arrived. It was covid test time. One at a time, over the course of about an hour and a half, we all tested negative in our hotel room. The feeling of relief made me realize how anxious this test had made me, how I had flinched every time someone coughed on the Metro. A positive test would have meant being stuck in France for a week or longer. 

But we were going home. After one last snowy, magical day in Paris (this was the day that we visited Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, and Le Grand Epecerie), we woke before dawn, took one final ride on the metro

and took a quick flight back over the English channel to Heathrow. 

For a three hour layover that grew to 6 hours 

which we didn't mind much because it gave us more time to access "real" Dairy Milk Bars. Did you know Hershey's has blocked the import of British Dairy Milk? Well, it has. So when you can get the real thing, you avail yourself of the opportunity. 

(The kids are pictured above in their hidey hole we discovered behind a vending machine at Heathrow. Jane's glasses are off on account of her not being able to see her phone because of pupil dilation attributed to the miracle of ScoPatch. She's wearing a ScoPatch on account of people not enjoying her vomit on the plane. It's these little vignettes we'll remember when she's grown.)

Given the travel mayhem happening at the time, we were lucky to only end up with a 3 hour delay and one lost bag on the way home. Within a couple of days, Emily's wayward bag was delivered to our house and all we had left of the trip was a giant pile of laundry and hundreds of wonderful memories. 

I'm so grateful we were able to take this trip and to give the girls the opportunity to see some other countries. They don't have many years left at home to make memories with us. I'm glad we got this one in under the wire. 

Come Along, (across the) Pond

 Last year, we were had big plans to visit my parents in London, where they were serving their mission. Covid pooped on our plans. But by the time Spring Break rolled around, the covid restrictions had been whittled down to a single rapid test before re-entering the US. We decided to take our chances on that test and headed across the pond. 

Our trip started when we checked the kids out of school on a Wednesday. This was a first for us. We've never pulled our kids out of school for a vacation. Now that we've done it, I'm wondering why we don't do it more often. 

Who knew you could fly directly from Denver to Heathrow? Now I do. This was the kids' first red-eye, their first flight over 4 hours, and it was the first trans-Atlantic flight for all of us. This flight was brought to you by Ativan, Valium, and ScoPatch. No, we didn't give the kids benzos. And that makes us saints. Of course, being on benzos ourselves made it easier to be saints. 

We got to London after very little sleep and were welcomed with a 6 hour time shift (which turned to 7 hours a few days later during daylight savings, and crept to 8 hours when we entered France). Needless to say, it was tough to keep our eyes open. 

This scene at my parents' flat repeated itself several times throughout the first day. 

We tried to fight the jet lag by going to Hyde Park, which was very close to where we were staying. Jane was especially drawn to this place. I don't know if it was all the flowers, or Kensington Palace, or if it was the fact that there seemed to be more dogs than humans enjoying the park. It was probably the dogs. 

We also walked to Buckingham Palace. I was too exhausted to change, so I ended up really looking like a tourist, and betraying my Benedict Cumberbatch fan-girl status. 

We also got well-acquainted with London's Underground. This was one of our favorite parts of the trip. It was so easy to get everywhere in the city. No worrying about cars, or Ubers, or parking. We just hopped on and went. My dad was an expert at public transit and showed us the ropes. 

The only downside of the tube was that London had just done away with their mask mandate. We knew we had to pass a covid test to get home. But I think we all realized the masks were pointless if no one else was wearing one. Except for Jane. Jane was determined not to be stuck in Europe. The rest of us just put our trust in our recent vaccines and plowed onto the crowded trains. 

One more note about Jane: She is pictured here in her "London Coat". She purchased it from Amazon because she was convinced that everybody in London would be wearing a pea coat. She wore it the entire time and looked incredibly put together for a 13 year old. 

We were in and around London for 5 days. I can honestly say we made the most of our time. My dad served as our tour guide and wanted to show us everything. My parents made incredible hosts and we were very grateful to them. 

We ventured out a bit to see Leeds Castle in Kent, along with some of the famous Kentish countryside immortalized in Jane Austen's novels. 

Canterbury Cathedral did not disappoint. During the visit I tried to piece together the story of St. Thomas Becket. It is very complicated and nuanced. Nevertheless, he was martyred here and it seems there are pilgrims that come to visit the place of his death. 

Canterbury itself is everything you would wish from a historic English town (village? hamlet?) - including a Starbucks. 

We got a brief glimpse of the White Cliffs of Dover. We couldn't get too terribly close as there was a shipping strike happening. All the trucks that were carrying cargo to be loaded onto ships at the Port of Dover were clogging the highway. This brings up two points: 1) the British highway system does not come close to the American highway system. 2) British people love a good strike - especially as it concerns transportation. We were affected by several strikes during our time there. 

Royal Albert Hall was also very close to where we were staying. I wish we could have seen a concert, but no performers we would want to see were touring at the time. 

Why is this an obligatory shot? I don't know. But we walked where the Beatles walked and I got a t-shirt. In all honesty, I think Abbey Road may be the best album of all time. 

We saw a West End play. This was quite the experience because everybody was so excited to be out and about. As mentioned previously, the UK had just lifted their covid restrictions - all of them. The streets were a continual party. It made for a great atmosphere for our first pond hop. 

We were very disappointed to find that Piccadilly Circus is, in fact, not a circus. Instead, it is similar to Times Square. 

And, of course, we couldn't visit London without going to see the Harry Potter sets. This was a really cool experience. 

It was incredible to see the actual sets where the actors worked for so many years to create the greatest franchise in movie history. 

Of all our experiences in London, the Eye may have been my favorite. Being able to see such amazing views made for a unique morning. 

The River Thames was a constant backdrop for our London adventures. Apparently this is Tower Bridge, not London Bridge as most people believe. After learning this fact, I may turn into one of those people who starts sentences with. "Well, actually"... Ugh. Wait. No. If you want to call it London Bridge, go ahead and call it London Bridge. It's not worth being a douche just to correct you. 

Pictured below is Greenwich. Believe it or not, I actually did not seek out the Prime Meridian. We were within a few hundred feet of it, but I completely forgot to go looking for it. When I got back, one of my squad members who works with GIS chastised me for this omission. It was cold that day and I was tired. This is close enough. 

One of the last things we saw was (the tower that houses) Big Ben. Big Ben is a bell inside the tower. There goes my "Well, actually...." side again.  

This next one's for Chris' mom, Carol. The best way to honor her memory is to visit British T.J. Maxx, which is inexplicably T.K. Maxx. in the U.K. It felt as though she was there with us as we purchased discount clothing to fill the holes in Jane's packing. 

Now, as we leave London, I'll pose the question: "Which is the "real" Platform 9 3/4 ?

Is it the one next to the Hogwarts Express from the movies?

Or is it the one at King's Cross, adjacent to Platforms 9 and 10?

This question keeps me up at night. But it didn't keep the girls up. As soon as we boarded the Eurostar for Paris, they were out like lights. Apparently they didn't think traveling under the English Channel at impossibly high rates of speed was very interesting. 

Next post: Paris!