
The anticipation was building to a crescendo over the days I spent in Africa leading up to our 3 day stay at the
Londolozi Game Reserve. Touring an African game reserve was something I had wanted to do as far back as I could remember and here I was on the threshold of it.
Tuesday August 9, 1988 "Drove to Londolozi game park. A misty, cloudy day - first such weather since I arrived. As we arrived at the game park and entered the gate we soon began seeing animals. We arrived at the camp at lunchtime. Checked in - had a quick nap and then were off in the land rover for the first drive out. It rained."I should probably tell you now about the land rovers. If you're like me you'll be asking first off how it works. Do they frighten the animals? The land rovers have no covering so are the tourists in any danger? The animals have grown up on the reserve and therefore have no fear of the vehicles. Even in darkness when the spotlights and headlamps are shining the animals take no notice of them because they are used to them. They do not perceive humans as prey when they are
sitting in the vehicles.
Sitting being the operative word here - for if you stand up or get out and walk around then you become something that may look like a meal to the big cats. Those who are smart remain seated.
We went out morning and evening when the predators are most active.
The game reserve consists of over 16,000 hectares of wilderness. Trackers sit up at the front of the Land Rover looking for fresh animal tracks, while rangers drive through ravines and thickets in pursuit of elusive animals, all the while thrilling guests with their outstanding knowledge and unforgettable stories.
Many of the rangers and trackers at Londolozi grew up living off the land and therefore have an incredible knowledge of the area and deep cultural connections to the fauna and flora. In addition Londolozi’s rangers specialize in photographic safaris and where possible will position the vehicle for the guest to get the best angle for photographic purposes. We were so impressed with the knowledge our guide had of the animals. His description of the giraffe's 'supphose' was most amusing. The trackers were so in tune with nature they could even tell when a lion was in the vicinity by the call of certain birds who warn other species of their presence.
The cottages at Londolozi were lovely. Since there was no electricity in the game park our quarters were lit each night with gas lamps. We did, however, have hot water for showers. Since the time of our stay at Londolozi the quarters have been refurbished and are a little more lush. But actually they were quite nice at the time. The thatched roofs smelled of the sweet grasses from which they are constructed - very calming as you drift off to sleep. One night I was awakened by the sound of a lion's roar, a convincing reminder of where I was. The lodge doors and windows were reinforced with 'monkey wire' which is impenetrable to the little pests. They broke into the camp store while we were there and ransacked all of the candy!
The 'boma' where meals were served was surrounded by an impenetrable fence of bamboo and other components. Breakfast and lunch were served in the tree house. Monkeys of course lived in the tree as well - so you needed to guard your things. They wouldn't grab and run if you were right there but if you turned your back for a moment they were quick!
We went out night and morning for three thrilling days.

These photos are not our own (sadly I haven't located ours and hope to find them soon) and are from the Londolozi website itself. But the photos represent some of the big game we saw while there. The exception is that we saw a young bull elephant amongst some trees and got quite close - not this mother and baby. The elephants use their tusks most skillfully - breaking limbs and reducing them to bite size pieces.

We saw a lactating female leopard with kill several days in a row. The guide thought she had two cubs - but they were kept hidden understandably. The kill in the tree may invite the question "How did she get it up there?" The short answer is she drug it up with her jaws - we saw her do it. Incredible strength.




The giraffe is one of my favorite animals of all and I was saddened to learn that the young are especially vulnerable to the big cats. We saw a baby giraffe skeleton one day when we were out - a sorrowful sight indeed - but this is the way of nature. Even the lion who is at the top of the food chain knows his limitations and will not get too aggressive with some of the animals, thereby avoiding risk of injury. Hyenas in a group can actually steal the lions kill and they will let them get away with it. The hyenas powerful jaws can devour the bones and all. Apparently they have the last laugh. (Sorry)

We also had the option of going out on a walking tour along the Sand River with a tracker. Phill and I very much wanted to enjoy all the adventure available while there so the 4 of us went. Phill, myself and the tracker. Last, but not least the 4th member of the party - the rifle! We were able to observe a family of hippos in the Sand River. They spend their nights out in the grassy areas grazing and due to their sensitivity to the sun they spend their days in the river relaxing. It's true what they say on the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland. When they yawn and wiggle their ears they're upset - so we tried not to provoke them with our presence. They can come up out of the river in a big hurry if they want to. We think they seem big and clumsy - but they're not at all and can move at an incredibly fast pace. We watched our P's and Q's. As we were walking along there was a rustle in the nearby grasses and the tracker put up his hand signalling for us to stop and remain silent. He checked things out and found it was just a wart hog. No great cause for alarm - but keeping a respectful distance is always a good idea in these parts. This walk was an incredible adventure!
I kept a list of all that we saw while on safari:
Eagles, zebras, sable, diker, wild boar, impala, baboon, kudu, giraffe, water buffalo, white-tailed mongoose, male lions, white rhino (at a distance for safety - very unpredictable), red-tailed oxpecker, waterbuck, wildebeest (gnu), vervet monkey, female leopard, crested francolin, hippo (large family w/male), crocodile, Burchill's cuckoo, hyena family at warren, night ape (very tiny), white-faced owl, male elephant, steenbok, hare, secretary bird, yellow-billed hornbill, lilac breasted roller, squirrel, willow warbler.
If I never have the opportunity to go to Africa again - I have the vivid memories of this marvelous and unique experience.