Day one of the world cup has finally concluded. After having to sit in isolation for just about 6 hours i am now done my first ever qaulifying round of a world cup competition! I ended the day in 1st place. The problems were extremely hard and i only managed to get two top total! More info to come, hopefully good news!!
To keep my mind off of being nervoud i have been playing this game a bunch! A true classic. my high score is level 112!!! Post up a comment if you beat my score!
Congrats to everyone from USA that made it to the semis: Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods, Mark Hobson, Carlo Traversi, Kyle Owen, Alex Johnson, Tiffany Hensley Alex Puccio, Charlotte Jouett, Lisa Rands, and Lizzy Asher!!!!
Tomor should be exciting!
EDIT: Level 119! JYYEEAAAHHH hahaha. i think i may go professional in city jumper soon.
Friday, June 6, 2008
City Jumper
Monday, June 2, 2008
The Time has come!
Wow! how time flies! There is only 2 days left until Dosage 5 premieres at the Boulder theater, only 4 days until the qualify round of the World Cup in Vail, and only 8 days until I leave for South Africa for almost 2 months!!! I am super psyched about all the awesome opportunities i will be having in the next week and can't wait to get to South Africa!
I have been continuing to train a lot over the course of the last few weeks and finally felt really good the other day while climbing at the Spot! The other day when talking with a friend about climbing we discussed reaching a new level in your own climbing fitness. I dunno if what we said really made any sense, but i feel like possibly it could have. We thought that you are more or less at a certain level. If you continue to climb you will hopefully break into a new level of climbing. But before you break into that new level you kinda suck for a short period of time. We felt that this was because your muscles and body are adapting to being at that new level and then after sucking for a little bit you are like at a new plateau, above the last and ready to continue on. I just felt super crappy the past few weeks and am starting to feel really good again. I truly hope i have reached the next level in my climbing growth especially since South Africa is right around the corner!!!
So I thought i was going to have a pro blog for Urban Climber, but i'm not sure what went down with that and haven't heard anything from anyone so i had this cool little section where i put down some of the more recent songs i have been listening to so people could go out and download them or whatever if they were psyched on the artist or genre of music. But none-the-less since that kinda fell through i guess ill update on here so hot JAMZ haha. Download, buy the cd, I dunno, do whatever you do to get your music, but these songs I think are really good so if your into hip-hop/rap then take a minute and check them out!
-Slim Thug off the album Already Platinum, “3 Kings”
Pretty much Slim Thug is amazing! Straight from Houston, Texas Slim Thug has some amazing beats and lyrics with a DJ that can chop and skrew to perfection. Pretty much his entire CD is great, definitely worth checking out! I mean who doesn’t love that Dirty South gangsta rap about sipping on that lean!?
-Notorious B.I.G. off the album Life after Death (Disc 1), “Kick in the Door”
Going old school on this one, but who doesn’t love Biggy. I had this song on my ipod for a while but was really bored one day on an airplane and was searching for new songs to listen to and stumbled across this Biggy masterpiece. “kick in the door, wave in the 44, all you heard was poppa don’t hit me no more.” Classic!
-Mobb Deep off the album Blood Money, “Capital P, Capital H”
I was in a record store a few months ago itching for some new music and stumbled upon this album. Though I am not usually a fan of G-unit or its affiliates, I decided why not give this cd a try since Mobb Deep had only recently been signed by g-unit records and hopefully would not be another CD for the infamous snitch, Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson, to show off his rapping “ability.” I was correct; there are only one or two songs with 50 and the rest of the album is pretty good with a few really good songs.
BTW: If you haven’t seen it yet check out the DVD “Stop Snitchin’ Stop Lyin’” produced by The Game, it’s a must see for all G-Unot fans and is absolutely hilarious!
I finally finished shaping my holds for Nicros and will be sending them off to them in the next few days. I hope they make a line out of them! I will be taking tons of pics in South Africa and will try to update as much as possible so stay tuned for some awesome adventures from my trip to the other side of the world!
I have been continuing to train a lot over the course of the last few weeks and finally felt really good the other day while climbing at the Spot! The other day when talking with a friend about climbing we discussed reaching a new level in your own climbing fitness. I dunno if what we said really made any sense, but i feel like possibly it could have. We thought that you are more or less at a certain level. If you continue to climb you will hopefully break into a new level of climbing. But before you break into that new level you kinda suck for a short period of time. We felt that this was because your muscles and body are adapting to being at that new level and then after sucking for a little bit you are like at a new plateau, above the last and ready to continue on. I just felt super crappy the past few weeks and am starting to feel really good again. I truly hope i have reached the next level in my climbing growth especially since South Africa is right around the corner!!!
So I thought i was going to have a pro blog for Urban Climber, but i'm not sure what went down with that and haven't heard anything from anyone so i had this cool little section where i put down some of the more recent songs i have been listening to so people could go out and download them or whatever if they were psyched on the artist or genre of music. But none-the-less since that kinda fell through i guess ill update on here so hot JAMZ haha. Download, buy the cd, I dunno, do whatever you do to get your music, but these songs I think are really good so if your into hip-hop/rap then take a minute and check them out!
-Slim Thug off the album Already Platinum, “3 Kings”
Pretty much Slim Thug is amazing! Straight from Houston, Texas Slim Thug has some amazing beats and lyrics with a DJ that can chop and skrew to perfection. Pretty much his entire CD is great, definitely worth checking out! I mean who doesn’t love that Dirty South gangsta rap about sipping on that lean!?
-Notorious B.I.G. off the album Life after Death (Disc 1), “Kick in the Door”
Going old school on this one, but who doesn’t love Biggy. I had this song on my ipod for a while but was really bored one day on an airplane and was searching for new songs to listen to and stumbled across this Biggy masterpiece. “kick in the door, wave in the 44, all you heard was poppa don’t hit me no more.” Classic!
-Mobb Deep off the album Blood Money, “Capital P, Capital H”
I was in a record store a few months ago itching for some new music and stumbled upon this album. Though I am not usually a fan of G-unit or its affiliates, I decided why not give this cd a try since Mobb Deep had only recently been signed by g-unit records and hopefully would not be another CD for the infamous snitch, Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson, to show off his rapping “ability.” I was correct; there are only one or two songs with 50 and the rest of the album is pretty good with a few really good songs.
BTW: If you haven’t seen it yet check out the DVD “Stop Snitchin’ Stop Lyin’” produced by The Game, it’s a must see for all G-Unot fans and is absolutely hilarious!
I finally finished shaping my holds for Nicros and will be sending them off to them in the next few days. I hope they make a line out of them! I will be taking tons of pics in South Africa and will try to update as much as possible so stay tuned for some awesome adventures from my trip to the other side of the world!
Friday, May 30, 2008
Sunday, May 25, 2008
2 weeks away
So as the world cup quickly approaches, I am becoming more and more nervous each passing day. I am excited to compete in the comp with a ton of extremely strong competitors from all over the world. I took a look at the structure of the wall yesterday on the ifsc website and it looks like a great venue for a competition of this stature! I am also pleased to see that there is a lot more walls that are not super super steep. I have always been a fan of the slightly to a bit over hanging walls when competing in comps. But i also feel that these angles will be where the Europeans will succeed as well.
Other than continuing my training for the world cup i have been working on two forms of art, my painting and also shaping holds for Nicros. It is definitely really hard working on a 3-dimensional plane! i have definitely never tried any type of sculpture but have been having a lot of fun working out ideas for holds in this crazy foam material. I have found the best technique is to use my finger like sand paper, though it is a slow process it allows me to work out a lot of details as i shape the hold. Below are two of more recent paintings:
Other than that not too much has been going on. It has been very hot in Boulder and climbing outside unless at the high altitude areas which have tons of snow, is still very difficult. I can't wait for South Africa in just over 2 weeks, the list of boulder problems i want to do during my time there is ever increasing! I hope we get some phenomenal weather while I'm down there!
Other than continuing my training for the world cup i have been working on two forms of art, my painting and also shaping holds for Nicros. It is definitely really hard working on a 3-dimensional plane! i have definitely never tried any type of sculpture but have been having a lot of fun working out ideas for holds in this crazy foam material. I have found the best technique is to use my finger like sand paper, though it is a slow process it allows me to work out a lot of details as i shape the hold. Below are two of more recent paintings:
Other than that not too much has been going on. It has been very hot in Boulder and climbing outside unless at the high altitude areas which have tons of snow, is still very difficult. I can't wait for South Africa in just over 2 weeks, the list of boulder problems i want to do during my time there is ever increasing! I hope we get some phenomenal weather while I'm down there!
Sunday, May 11, 2008
home
Black wallstreet for life!
Yesterday i flew back to NJ to visit my family for a week before heading back to CO to continue my training for the world cup and South Africa. But before i went home i had some business to take care of up at the park! After 3 days of work and one extremely hard move later, i sent the FA of Mendax, 8B. This problem is on the Veritas Boulder in RMNP and starts on the same starting holds as low left veritas but rather than climbing right, it climbs directly left and up to a heinous right hand pich to a big move to a not so good sloper at the lip. I sent the line just before i had to leave the other day and am psyched to have finished it up! Keep a look out for video from the one and only Sneeldoggggg aka Scott Neel
Now all i've got to do is wait for a day that is not hot in boulder to go back and attempt Suspension of Disbelief. I truly think this boulder hates me! Every time i go back there, there is just something wrong (its snowing, its hailing, its raining, its deathly hot, theres no wind, the ticks are taking over, etc.) But none the less i have decided this isn't going to stop me from trying to send in the next few weeks i have left in CO!!!
(A visual representation of the death that has become Eldo on previous attempts to send!)
Last but not least i got my tickets to europe for the fall the other day!!! I fly into Zurich on September 1st and depart on December 12th!!! sooooooo psyched!!!
More news to come soon!
Yesterday i flew back to NJ to visit my family for a week before heading back to CO to continue my training for the world cup and South Africa. But before i went home i had some business to take care of up at the park! After 3 days of work and one extremely hard move later, i sent the FA of Mendax, 8B. This problem is on the Veritas Boulder in RMNP and starts on the same starting holds as low left veritas but rather than climbing right, it climbs directly left and up to a heinous right hand pich to a big move to a not so good sloper at the lip. I sent the line just before i had to leave the other day and am psyched to have finished it up! Keep a look out for video from the one and only Sneeldoggggg aka Scott Neel
Now all i've got to do is wait for a day that is not hot in boulder to go back and attempt Suspension of Disbelief. I truly think this boulder hates me! Every time i go back there, there is just something wrong (its snowing, its hailing, its raining, its deathly hot, theres no wind, the ticks are taking over, etc.) But none the less i have decided this isn't going to stop me from trying to send in the next few weeks i have left in CO!!!
(A visual representation of the death that has become Eldo on previous attempts to send!)
Last but not least i got my tickets to europe for the fall the other day!!! I fly into Zurich on September 1st and depart on December 12th!!! sooooooo psyched!!!
More news to come soon!
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
the recent
Training is going super well which i am very pleased with. The extent of my training is as follows on a daily basis:
Wake up at like 8:20 or so, head downstairs and do the first part of my training exercise (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups). Then I eat breakfast, Cocoa puff preferably. Head to school, do the school thing for a few hours and come home. If its a nice day outside and I don't have too much work to get done ill head outside to climb but if not its to training central, CATS! Lately i have been starting my work outs with a good session of bouldering followed by an intense power endurance work out. This climb "Hudz" is kicking my butt! its like 45 or so moves long and probably around 5.14 with jibs and tracking for feet. I hope to send soon. While doing my endurance work outs if someone is climbing on a cool new boulder prob i will be likely to try that and then get back to the "Hudz" epic. There is this other climb at CATS as well that is awesome and perfect for training too. It is about 30 moves of straight micro crimps! So hard my guess is probably v14 to link the entire thing together. My best effort was when i did approximately 28 moves in a row. After my workout I do exactly what I do in the morning (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups) and then head home extremely tired.
I feel a lot stronger in the week or so i have been doing this and i cant wait to continue to feel stronger the more i keep training!
This past weekend i headed up to the park for the first time of the season to climb on the veritas boulder! I managed to climb dave's low left veritas which is super pumpy and an alright addition to the boulder. Though that is not what i went up there for. This project to the left of veritas is sooooo sick! I did it from a stand start and it feels really hard. I cant wait to go back and try to link all the bottom moves in, its definitely going to be a sick new test piece for the park when it gets completed!
And last but not least, i ordered some pizza the other night and who would have guessed who would have wrung the door bell to deliver my pizza.... OLSON! what a beast!
As it is kinda hard to tell from the picture, Olson works for a pizza restaurant called double d's. I mentioned to him that he should hire a girl like this to deliver the pizza and he might get better tips.
Wake up at like 8:20 or so, head downstairs and do the first part of my training exercise (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups). Then I eat breakfast, Cocoa puff preferably. Head to school, do the school thing for a few hours and come home. If its a nice day outside and I don't have too much work to get done ill head outside to climb but if not its to training central, CATS! Lately i have been starting my work outs with a good session of bouldering followed by an intense power endurance work out. This climb "Hudz" is kicking my butt! its like 45 or so moves long and probably around 5.14 with jibs and tracking for feet. I hope to send soon. While doing my endurance work outs if someone is climbing on a cool new boulder prob i will be likely to try that and then get back to the "Hudz" epic. There is this other climb at CATS as well that is awesome and perfect for training too. It is about 30 moves of straight micro crimps! So hard my guess is probably v14 to link the entire thing together. My best effort was when i did approximately 28 moves in a row. After my workout I do exactly what I do in the morning (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups) and then head home extremely tired.
I feel a lot stronger in the week or so i have been doing this and i cant wait to continue to feel stronger the more i keep training!
This past weekend i headed up to the park for the first time of the season to climb on the veritas boulder! I managed to climb dave's low left veritas which is super pumpy and an alright addition to the boulder. Though that is not what i went up there for. This project to the left of veritas is sooooo sick! I did it from a stand start and it feels really hard. I cant wait to go back and try to link all the bottom moves in, its definitely going to be a sick new test piece for the park when it gets completed!
And last but not least, i ordered some pizza the other night and who would have guessed who would have wrung the door bell to deliver my pizza.... OLSON! what a beast!
As it is kinda hard to tell from the picture, Olson works for a pizza restaurant called double d's. I mentioned to him that he should hire a girl like this to deliver the pizza and he might get better tips.
Monday, April 21, 2008
dear fellow readers of my blog,
as was my hopeful desire to send rasta man sit start this weekend, I am unfortunately reporting back with a lack of success. I could easily make excuses for why i did not send (85 degree highs, being very jetlagged from 6 flights in the course of 8 days), but no i have decided that rather than making excuses i am going to work even harder to become a better climber for my upcoming trips! Starting today I have decided i am going to up my training by a ton to become the best boulderer i can possibly be. I hope that by the time south africa comes in less than two months from now i will feel fully prepared and ready to destroy anything that the Rocklands has to offer!
A picture i found on google of Amandla, SOOO RAD LOOKING!
Other than not sending i had an awesome weekend none the less! Amazing rock and great friends to climb with. Did some classics i had done before along with a few new lines that made the trip that much more memorable.
Im back in Colorado now and loving the nice sunny weather. Im hoping for a cool day to go and try suspension so hopefully some news on that soon! Other than that i have exactly 2.5 weeks left of school until my 8 month climbing road trip!!!!!!! cant wait! This blog will be the place to get all the info on my upcoming travels so stay posted!
A picture i found on google of Amandla, SOOO RAD LOOKING!
Other than not sending i had an awesome weekend none the less! Amazing rock and great friends to climb with. Did some classics i had done before along with a few new lines that made the trip that much more memorable.
Im back in Colorado now and loving the nice sunny weather. Im hoping for a cool day to go and try suspension so hopefully some news on that soon! Other than that i have exactly 2.5 weeks left of school until my 8 month climbing road trip!!!!!!! cant wait! This blog will be the place to get all the info on my upcoming travels so stay posted!
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
rumney and the east coast
I am now back in Colorado until Thursday to get some school work done, attend class, and hand in a few papers. Then it is off to Bishop Thursday afternoon! So psyched for Rasta Man Sit, hopefully this time i will send!
This past weekend I flew out to the north east so that i could try to send the fly in Rumney, NH. My single day of attempts was luckily enough to pull it off and am super psyched to have sent the line. After my day in Rumney and before heading to the airport to head back home i got to go try the "book of bitter aspects" in bradley, CT. Though extremely tired from the day before i gave it some really good attempts and can't wait to get back on it at a later date! It is such an inspiring line that i hope one day to finally send. 2 hard moves followed by a short v8 up an intensly steep wall! PERFECT!
Updates to come regarding my weekend trip back to Bishop!!!
Smug alert in full effect, beware!
This past weekend I flew out to the north east so that i could try to send the fly in Rumney, NH. My single day of attempts was luckily enough to pull it off and am super psyched to have sent the line. After my day in Rumney and before heading to the airport to head back home i got to go try the "book of bitter aspects" in bradley, CT. Though extremely tired from the day before i gave it some really good attempts and can't wait to get back on it at a later date! It is such an inspiring line that i hope one day to finally send. 2 hard moves followed by a short v8 up an intensly steep wall! PERFECT!
Updates to come regarding my weekend trip back to Bishop!!!
Smug alert in full effect, beware!
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
rumney
so I am heading back to the east coast this weekend for an EMS photo/video shoot and am very excited to try the fly. the problem being that the forecast is calling for rain every single day I am there! UGH!! UGH!! It just seems as if everywhere i have been trying to go lately the weather turns to crap the entire time i am there. We'll see hopefully it will get better, it would be nice to give the fly a good honest effort! But alas, I am going to keep my hope high until I have to get on a plane back to Denver on monday evening.
To everyone that is looking at a weekend of possible rain, keep your fingers crossed, its gonna be perfect i know it!
Bishop in 7 days!!! Rasta Man Project must go!
To everyone that is looking at a weekend of possible rain, keep your fingers crossed, its gonna be perfect i know it!
Bishop in 7 days!!! Rasta Man Project must go!
Sunday, March 30, 2008
quick update
So, there was no send and my barely healed tip busted open again. But the tries I did get to give it were some of my best yet! I am back in Boulder now and planning a trip back for a long weekend in 3 weeks to try and finish it up! I can't wait! I will post some video of my best attempts in the upcoming days once I get the footage. Keep posted!
Below I have posted the video of one of my closer attempts on the sit start. I think I fell on this move at least 20 times from the bottom, followed by video of me sticking the move in isolation. I can't wait to get back to this thing!!!
Sorry about the crappy quality.
Below I have posted the video of one of my closer attempts on the sit start. I think I fell on this move at least 20 times from the bottom, followed by video of me sticking the move in isolation. I can't wait to get back to this thing!!!
Sorry about the crappy quality.
Friday, March 28, 2008
1 day left...
the past five days since i split my tip i have just been resting in the near impossible hope that my finger will heal for one more good try on rastaman sit. As tomorrow is my last day i'm going to attempt one last time before driving back to reno. Though my finger is not healed i hope it will be enough to be able to bear the pain and maybe sending the amazing project! Hopefully a miracle and some good news to come tomorrow after climbing! wish me luck!
Monday, March 24, 2008
blugh
got unlucky today and unfortunately got a very bad split on my right pointer finger while trying rastaman sit. It has been going very well other than that! i felt extremely close today with many tries that could have been the one but just couldnt hold on to the very hard swing at the end. Hopefully my tip will heal before i have to leave.
On a side note: Happy Birthday Dad!
On a side note: Happy Birthday Dad!
Friday, March 21, 2008
Bishop Day 1
I made into Bishop last night to start my spring break trip. I will be here until next Saturday and have one problem on mind, the rasta man vibration sit start project. The stand was put up a few years back by justin roth and originally graded v12. the full line definitely still needs to be done though. I began working it last year and knew it was possible. today was the first day back on it. I surprisingly felt really strong on it, doing all of the bottom moves in a short period of time. It is quite hot here in bishop now and after a short morning session it became fully aware that trying it more would just result in a lot of skin loss. I then climbed the backside of the boulder and rapped into the top section of the boulder to see how the top was before going for it from the bottom. It is ridiculously scary! I had assumed it would be over after doing the bottom crux, but i was unfortunately very wrong! the top is involved and quite difficult! Pulling the lip is an interesting crux that i would say is at least v8 or 9. then a jug to rest on and then a very very technical crux to get into the easier climbing of the top of evilution. this part is very scary because the feet are bad and the hand holds are small and you are at least 25 feet off the ground at this point. I practiced the moves a lot and feel confident now to go forward and try for the send in the upcoming days of my trip, but still am very scared of having to do all of that top without a top rope attached to me. Here are some pictures from the day of me on the top of the line working it out.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Midnight Express and Bishop
The weeks seem like days here in Boulder. It just seems like yesterday I was coming home from Hueco and starting the new semester of school. Now it is practically spring break and I cant wait for another 10 day trip to Bishop! This year the main focus will be the Rasta Man Vibration Sit Start Project. It has definitely been on my mind for the past year and cant wait to begin trying it again with some more serious effort.
Lately I have been just climbing around Boulder and have been trying to heal my right middle toe. I had to get stitches in it because i had a cist and the doctor had to cut it out. It kinda sucked not being able to wear a shoe for about 2.5 weeks but just in the past week or so i have been able to wear both climbing shoes again! As soon as I found out i could wear both shoes i returned to my short term project of Midnight Express. The day I sent (saturday) was absolutely perfect. The weather was cold (31 feels like 9 said weather.com for Nederland with a good steady wind)! PERFECT! cold but warm enough to not be frozen the whole time. After warming up i felt confident and ready to go. My first attempt was really good and i knew that today could be that day! After several bad attempts, i finally stuck the under-cling perfectly and climbed it to the top without any hesitation! It felt good, it had been a while since i had done something hard that i was proud of.
photo A. Mann: The final overwhelming moves of the infamous Midnight Express
Psyched! Bishop 2 days!
Lately I have been just climbing around Boulder and have been trying to heal my right middle toe. I had to get stitches in it because i had a cist and the doctor had to cut it out. It kinda sucked not being able to wear a shoe for about 2.5 weeks but just in the past week or so i have been able to wear both climbing shoes again! As soon as I found out i could wear both shoes i returned to my short term project of Midnight Express. The day I sent (saturday) was absolutely perfect. The weather was cold (31 feels like 9 said weather.com for Nederland with a good steady wind)! PERFECT! cold but warm enough to not be frozen the whole time. After warming up i felt confident and ready to go. My first attempt was really good and i knew that today could be that day! After several bad attempts, i finally stuck the under-cling perfectly and climbed it to the top without any hesitation! It felt good, it had been a while since i had done something hard that i was proud of.
photo A. Mann: The final overwhelming moves of the infamous Midnight Express
Psyched! Bishop 2 days!
Monday, February 18, 2008
Some outdoor rock climbing and nationals
The past two weeks have been pretty nice around here. The freezing cold days are finally starting to move out and the more temperate, perfect climbing days, are moving in. Last week i actually got to climb outside for one of the first times since Hueco! I went to Boulder Canyon and promptly finished up Chris Schulte's "Free Range" 8B. It felt really good to be out on rock again as well as send a new hard boulder problem! A few days later I headed out to Suspension on one of the most beautiful February days with fellow friends Andy Mann and Carlo Traversi. We warmed up and all was well until we stumbled upon Suspension deep back in the woods of Eldo. The top had about a foot of snow on it and underneath the snow was a layer of solid ice. Carlo and I went to work cleaning off the top but that just made the boulder seep sooo freaking much! thus we continued to work (for over 4 hours!) knowing there would be no way of climbing on it that day.
photo A. Mann
We were hoping that it would not snow in the next few days and that the day after nationals we could go out and climb on it. yet, to both of our dismay it decided to snow and now i have no idea if the boulder is climbable again. But we will see, hopefully sometime this week i can get out there!
Other than that I competed in the ABS Nationals at the spot over the weekend. It was quite exciting to say the least. The gym was so packed that people had to stand outside to watch the comp, people who had even paid for tickets! The first day of the comp i did not climb so hot. I don't think that i warmed up properly and by problem 3 i was feeling a big flash pump and was dreading what was to come on problem 4. I ended the day in 4th place going into finals. I really enjoy climbing at around this spot in the running order. Going to early can be a bit of a pain because holds can be greasy and the crowd isn't always psyched yet. But going all the way at the end kinda sucks too because the holds can be too chalky and the crowd is expecting something huge out of you and that can make anyone very nervous. But 4th to last out seemed to work well for me. Problem 1 was a nice traverse on the CO granite wall with a nice dyno finish. The problem was well set and it was a nice problem 1 to start off the final round. problem 2 was on the hueco wall coming straight out of the low scoop. The bottom was easy followed by a huge double light bulb so-ill hold. i was scared they were gonna use use this hold! Its my nemesis. Anyway first try i fell going out to it but second try fired the problem and was ready for the intimidating 3rd problem. As i set out on the third i knew this one looked like my style, technical, big moves and smaller type holds. First try i fell low because i placed my heel wrong but second try i sent! what an amazing problem set in a gym! perfect moves and an amazing finish high off the ground. At this point i knew i was in good shape! 3 sends and one climb left to go. Final 4 was again on the hueco wall, but it climbed the large double scoop and looked really hard! My first try was my best, i climbed up to a very difficult bump move and had the wrong body position and took quite a crazy fall. My last attempt was crap and i knew i was tired, but oh well. The rest of the climbers proceeded through the order and i watched nervously. When Sean was done climbing i then knew that i had won! It was a great accomplishment for me as i have never won the ABS Nationals before and am very excited to say i have now!
None the less, i am now hanging out taking some tests for school this week, along with trying to get climbing outside and work on my newest painting. I just finished a painting last week and have a picture of it below (its all grainy cuz my camera its ultra sucky). Andy Mann I'm stealing your camera! :P
I hope everyone is having a nice February! More updates to come now that the weather is finally shaping up!
photo A. Mann
We were hoping that it would not snow in the next few days and that the day after nationals we could go out and climb on it. yet, to both of our dismay it decided to snow and now i have no idea if the boulder is climbable again. But we will see, hopefully sometime this week i can get out there!
Other than that I competed in the ABS Nationals at the spot over the weekend. It was quite exciting to say the least. The gym was so packed that people had to stand outside to watch the comp, people who had even paid for tickets! The first day of the comp i did not climb so hot. I don't think that i warmed up properly and by problem 3 i was feeling a big flash pump and was dreading what was to come on problem 4. I ended the day in 4th place going into finals. I really enjoy climbing at around this spot in the running order. Going to early can be a bit of a pain because holds can be greasy and the crowd isn't always psyched yet. But going all the way at the end kinda sucks too because the holds can be too chalky and the crowd is expecting something huge out of you and that can make anyone very nervous. But 4th to last out seemed to work well for me. Problem 1 was a nice traverse on the CO granite wall with a nice dyno finish. The problem was well set and it was a nice problem 1 to start off the final round. problem 2 was on the hueco wall coming straight out of the low scoop. The bottom was easy followed by a huge double light bulb so-ill hold. i was scared they were gonna use use this hold! Its my nemesis. Anyway first try i fell going out to it but second try fired the problem and was ready for the intimidating 3rd problem. As i set out on the third i knew this one looked like my style, technical, big moves and smaller type holds. First try i fell low because i placed my heel wrong but second try i sent! what an amazing problem set in a gym! perfect moves and an amazing finish high off the ground. At this point i knew i was in good shape! 3 sends and one climb left to go. Final 4 was again on the hueco wall, but it climbed the large double scoop and looked really hard! My first try was my best, i climbed up to a very difficult bump move and had the wrong body position and took quite a crazy fall. My last attempt was crap and i knew i was tired, but oh well. The rest of the climbers proceeded through the order and i watched nervously. When Sean was done climbing i then knew that i had won! It was a great accomplishment for me as i have never won the ABS Nationals before and am very excited to say i have now!
None the less, i am now hanging out taking some tests for school this week, along with trying to get climbing outside and work on my newest painting. I just finished a painting last week and have a picture of it below (its all grainy cuz my camera its ultra sucky). Andy Mann I'm stealing your camera! :P
I hope everyone is having a nice February! More updates to come now that the weather is finally shaping up!
Monday, February 4, 2008
the snow and cold
well im sure this snow and cold is getting everyone down in and around boulder. lately i havent been able to get outside at all and have been merely climbing inside way too much. but hopefully the weather will get good soon. not too much news around here lately, nationals is in a few weeks and that should be pretty exciting. it is looking like later this week might be good for climbing we will see, updates coming soon if we actually have some notable weather to climb in...
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
hueco trip
photo dylan spurgin
photo andy mann
photo scott
So as my trip to hueco is coming to an end, 2 more climbing days left :(, i am even more excited about my future extended climbing trips. My trip to hueco has been extremely successful, i have now climbed pretty much everything i wanted to this trip and wont be leaving with any regrets of not trying or doing any specific boulders. The wather was pretty much perfect my entire trip and i had a ton of fun climbing and hanging out with a lot of my reallly good freinds.
I am heading back to Boulder on saturday and am hoping for no snow storms along the way. I have one more semester left of school before my 7 month road trip begins. I hope that these next few months in boulder consist of very little snow and lots of perfect climbing days with sunshine. Suspension, here i come! haha i know i have said this many times before, but hopefully i can obtain the ascent soon! i have never worked a boulder this long in my life, but i am not getting worn out on it at all. every time i go is a new experience and one i am always looking forward to.
Sunday, December 16, 2007
hueco in t-minus 48 hours
so trying to finish up my projects in Colorado have turned into a total disaster. we have received so much snow in the last few weeks that getting outside is nearly impossible (trust me I tried multiple times). so i'm heading to hueco on Monday night not having finished my projects in Colorado but none the less am extremely psyched for the boulders down there. My tips are in good condition and i feel that i am physically in good condition and hope that this years trip to hueco is my best one yet! I will try and post photos etc while i'm down there so keep a look out! Best of luck to all over the holidays and happy holidays!
Monday, November 26, 2007
back in b-town
after a refreshing break and going home for a while, i'm now back in boulder for a few days before the final triple crown at the stone fort, Tennessee. The past few weeks have been super hectic with school along with having to fly across the country every weekend for a comp. but after this weekend the flying will be over with and it will then be only 2.5 weeks until Hueco! I cannot wait for hueco and hope that the weather is good this winter trip. As for this week, i was hoping to get a lot of boulder problems done outside since i wouldn't have that much school work but not to my liking i came home to find a good bit of snow on the ground. im hoping that it will melt off by man it is sooooooo cold out there! Hueco cant come soon enough! so with some luck ill hopefully be able to get out a day or two before i head to Tennessee this weekend. Since I havent posted any pics in a while... here sre some from some of my most recent adventures.
halcyon
Halcyon
confident man
air jordan
chris getting it done the crazy way!
halcyon
Halcyon
confident man
air jordan
chris getting it done the crazy way!
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
2008 is on its way!
so 2007 is almost done and i have 5 problems left to do before the end of the year. 2007 was the first year i set out a list of boulder problems to do for the year. Now that i have about a month and a half left i have nearly completed all of them except for 5, those being Suspension of disbelief, Esperanza, Terremer, Nagual, and Slashface. I have to decided to count my entire Hueco trip (which will culminate on the 13th of January 08) as still part of my 2007 list and then start out on my 2008 list. Today I decided i would write up my list and this year i decided i would post this list and as i hopefully tick them off write about them! so here it is, all of which are places on plan on spending lengthy periods of time! 2008 list!
8c
Usa
Rasta Man Vibration Sit (Project), buttermilks
France
Satan I helvete assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Switzerland
From dirt grows the flowers, chironico
South Africa
Amandla, Rocklands
8b+
France
Gecko assis, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Switzerland
Dreamtime, cresciano
New base line, magic wood
South Africa
Moiste Meisie, Rocklands
Madiba, Rocklands
Austria
Bugeleisen, malltatal
Emotional landscapes, malltatal
8b
USA
Dominated, Yosemite
Xavier’s Roof, Dales Camp
France
Gecko, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Fata morgana assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Satan I helvete, font-Long’s Vaux
Switzerland
Shadowfax, chironico
La prue, cresciano
Mithril, cresciano
The great shark hunt, chironico
Ganyemede takeover, brionne
Vecchio leone, brionne
South Africa
Quintessential, Rocklands
Shosalosa, Rocklands
Black shadow, Rocklands
Armed response, Rocklands
Leopard cave, Rocklands
Ray of light, Rocklands
8a+
USA
Shadow warrior, Yosemite
France
Total eclipse, font-Cul De Chien
Chaos, font-Rocher Gréau
Big Dragon, font-Petit Bois
Switzerland
Pura vida, magic wood
Jack’s Broken Heart, magic wood
Salamander, brionne
Octopus, magic wood
Frank’s Wild Years, chironico
Kirk windstain, cresciano
South Africa
Nutsa, Rocklands
Oral office, Rocklands
this week suspension!!!!
photo andy mann
8c
Usa
Rasta Man Vibration Sit (Project), buttermilks
France
Satan I helvete assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Switzerland
From dirt grows the flowers, chironico
South Africa
Amandla, Rocklands
8b+
France
Gecko assis, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Switzerland
Dreamtime, cresciano
New base line, magic wood
South Africa
Moiste Meisie, Rocklands
Madiba, Rocklands
Austria
Bugeleisen, malltatal
Emotional landscapes, malltatal
8b
USA
Dominated, Yosemite
Xavier’s Roof, Dales Camp
France
Gecko, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Fata morgana assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Satan I helvete, font-Long’s Vaux
Switzerland
Shadowfax, chironico
La prue, cresciano
Mithril, cresciano
The great shark hunt, chironico
Ganyemede takeover, brionne
Vecchio leone, brionne
South Africa
Quintessential, Rocklands
Shosalosa, Rocklands
Black shadow, Rocklands
Armed response, Rocklands
Leopard cave, Rocklands
Ray of light, Rocklands
8a+
USA
Shadow warrior, Yosemite
France
Total eclipse, font-Cul De Chien
Chaos, font-Rocher Gréau
Big Dragon, font-Petit Bois
Switzerland
Pura vida, magic wood
Jack’s Broken Heart, magic wood
Salamander, brionne
Octopus, magic wood
Frank’s Wild Years, chironico
Kirk windstain, cresciano
South Africa
Nutsa, Rocklands
Oral office, Rocklands
this week suspension!!!!
photo andy mann
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Projects
Lately I have been climbing inside a bunch, training for upcoming comps and the recent projects that have been shown to me. I saw this new line at the PB Boulders the other day that is extremely inspiring and quite possibly v14! I tried it a bit the other week and am really psyched to get back on it. It is a slightly overhung wall with crimps the entire way, absolutely possible but is going to be extremely hard. Other than that there are 2 cool new projects at eldo that i believe could hold some potential, i cleaned this new roof at eldo that would have 2 very difficult roof moves to a jug followed by an extremely hard mantle at the lip. The other project i have yet to see but have heard good things. over hung wall holds the whole way up, just needs some good cleaning. Other than that I am psyched for Suspension of Disbelief again once it gets colder. Today was the first snow in Boulder but it was too warm too stick, thank goodness! not psyched on the winterly months ahead.
This weekend I went to Poudre on saturday and climbed two new boulders and one that i had previously sent. I warmed up and went directly to "Circadian Rhythm" to see how i would be climbing that day and fired the climb off first go. Rad, Rad climb, just wish the rock were not behind it in the start. Next I went over the "Sharma Lunge" which I had never tried before and was psyched to give a flash effort. Got super close on my flash go and fired it off next try along with the sit start in two goes as well. After that I headed down to the Scarface boulder and decided I would try to start on scarface and head directly up the face. This climb had previously been done a long time ago but the starting hold out right broke. Im not sure if where I started was a first ascent but definitely was a fun climb and a nice crimper test piece for the area. It then began to rain and the day dwindled to an end as we hiked out in the sleet.
Other than that, I just finished a new abstract painting of the flatirons that i will post a picture of once i get it back from my teacher on Monday. oh projects! I'm psyched! i was def getting a little bored for a while but i really think that the PB boulders along with the projs at eldo will hold some truly beautiful futuristic lines. Other than that, Im heading to Joe's this weekend as long as the weather holds out. Psyched to go for the the FA of the broken "No Additives." we'll see.
This weekend I went to Poudre on saturday and climbed two new boulders and one that i had previously sent. I warmed up and went directly to "Circadian Rhythm" to see how i would be climbing that day and fired the climb off first go. Rad, Rad climb, just wish the rock were not behind it in the start. Next I went over the "Sharma Lunge" which I had never tried before and was psyched to give a flash effort. Got super close on my flash go and fired it off next try along with the sit start in two goes as well. After that I headed down to the Scarface boulder and decided I would try to start on scarface and head directly up the face. This climb had previously been done a long time ago but the starting hold out right broke. Im not sure if where I started was a first ascent but definitely was a fun climb and a nice crimper test piece for the area. It then began to rain and the day dwindled to an end as we hiked out in the sleet.
Other than that, I just finished a new abstract painting of the flatirons that i will post a picture of once i get it back from my teacher on Monday. oh projects! I'm psyched! i was def getting a little bored for a while but i really think that the PB boulders along with the projs at eldo will hold some truly beautiful futuristic lines. Other than that, Im heading to Joe's this weekend as long as the weather holds out. Psyched to go for the the FA of the broken "No Additives." we'll see.
Friday, September 28, 2007
dali wall (check)
Yesterday was beautiful so I was psyched on some outdoor climbing. I headed to Mt. Evans to meet up with Herm and Jody. I got there around 3 pm and the temps were better than expected! Herm was working on Greener grasses so i decided my goal for the day would be to complete then entire Dali wall in one day. By 6 pm I had completed the entire wall! Today I'm super tired from yest and a little nervous for my slideshow tomorrow night at the Horse Tooth Hang. Below is the list in order of my ascents yesterday:
Warm up Crack Thing, 1st go
No More Greener Grasses, 1st go
Clear Blue Skies, 1st Go
Mental Masturbation, 2nd go
Ode to the Modern Man, 4th go
Super Gui, 1st go
Dali, 1st go
Pat's Arete Low aka SIT START, 2nd go
I got some video of my most recent ascent of Ode to the Modern Man which I will be premiering at my slide show tomorrow night at the Hang!
Warm up Crack Thing, 1st go
No More Greener Grasses, 1st go
Clear Blue Skies, 1st Go
Mental Masturbation, 2nd go
Ode to the Modern Man, 4th go
Super Gui, 1st go
Dali, 1st go
Pat's Arete Low aka SIT START, 2nd go
I got some video of my most recent ascent of Ode to the Modern Man which I will be premiering at my slide show tomorrow night at the Hang!
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Both Sides of the Spectrum
AMAZING boulder! props to Harry on FA. Go out and try it, it is definitely one of the better new lines in CO!
And here is Lady, the coolest pup in the world.
And here is Lady, the coolest pup in the world.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
coloraddddddo
Been back in Colorado for a while now! Climbing a bunch and trying to find new boulders. Yesterday I went to Camp Dick in search of a new highball that Scott Neel shown me pictures of the previous week. Him and I hiked out there around noon to find a beautiful 25 foot unclimbed vertical granite boulder. I was psyched but a bit scared of the climb itself. The landing was good and together we had 7 crashpads, but i didn't have a spotter, though I'm not sure that if you fell off the top a spotter would be of any sort of help. The boulder begins with a very technical v7 which leads to a nice jug then another technical boulder of about v8/9 for the last 10 ft of the climb. heres a picture to give perspective of the height.
Photos scott neel
As of now, I'm super psyched to find some more new boulders to climb on and hopefully get the FA of. I have a few in mind and really hope that we have a nice snowless fall here in Colorado.
JADE! peep it in the upcoming Dosage V!!! photo steve woods
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
back in CO
I'm back in Colorado for the year once again. Hopefully this year will be as productive as the last if not even more. Lately I have been climbing up at RMNP when it is not raining. I have had a few good days and have thus far sent some really fun climbs. I feel like I am getting back into the climbing out here very quickly.
Yesterday I headed up to RMNP with Daniel and Ryan Sewell. We warmed up then rain a train on the new "Friday the 13th" a really good boulder but i believe to be a bittttt soft for v10. none the less it climbs well and was fun to do. After that we headed up to the green wall area of the park. I tried the top of Jade for a short while and felt strong on it and cant wait to get back from the show in a few days to try it more. Other than that Daniel and I tried "Leviatan Style" and he sent very quickly. My first day on it was very good and I managed to fall off at the top after a little bit of effort.
Next we tried this amazing new project to the left of Jade on the arete. I managed to get the FA from a crouch start and named it "don't get toooo gready." Daniel and Ryan sent shortly after. Daniel and I tried it from the sit and got extremely close! This seems like it is going to be a great new boulder and very hard at that... atleast v13 i think. Once the show is done, I'm heading directly to the boulder to go for the send!
Sorry for no pictures but I don't have my computer right now to load any. But I will have it by tomorrow and will load some new pictures of the project! I'm off to the trade show tomorrow! The competition this year looks veryyyy stiff, should be exciting!
Yesterday I headed up to RMNP with Daniel and Ryan Sewell. We warmed up then rain a train on the new "Friday the 13th" a really good boulder but i believe to be a bittttt soft for v10. none the less it climbs well and was fun to do. After that we headed up to the green wall area of the park. I tried the top of Jade for a short while and felt strong on it and cant wait to get back from the show in a few days to try it more. Other than that Daniel and I tried "Leviatan Style" and he sent very quickly. My first day on it was very good and I managed to fall off at the top after a little bit of effort.
Next we tried this amazing new project to the left of Jade on the arete. I managed to get the FA from a crouch start and named it "don't get toooo gready." Daniel and Ryan sent shortly after. Daniel and I tried it from the sit and got extremely close! This seems like it is going to be a great new boulder and very hard at that... atleast v13 i think. Once the show is done, I'm heading directly to the boulder to go for the send!
Sorry for no pictures but I don't have my computer right now to load any. But I will have it by tomorrow and will load some new pictures of the project! I'm off to the trade show tomorrow! The competition this year looks veryyyy stiff, should be exciting!
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