Went to Eureka Thursday morning and soloed Stairway. The only thin spots were the first roll in the middle of pitch one, but it would have taken an ice screw a few feet earlier and then could walk flat footed within two moves. Also the top of pitch four was thin as always as it transitions into the snow.
While I was there I talked to a party who had just done second gully and they said it was great.
Road to Nowhere and Whorehouse Hoses also looked good from the road. I could see that the top of Hosers' Highway looked excellent but couldn't see the mixed pitch, hope to rememdy that this week.

Friday soloed Campground Couloir, Snowblind, and DNF in South Mineral. All were in better than average condition. I only climbed two small wet steps, the rest were dry and fat. All routes are clearly seeing regular traffic.

Ice Park Conditions and Opening

Walked thru the ice park a couple days ago. It is looking GOOD. Let's all hope for continued cold nights till opening weekend Dec. 19.

Think Cold Thoughts! Won't be long now.

Had a chance to check out Eureka and South Mineral some more. Still pretty slim pickings.
We climbed Stairway on Wed. It was a little more engaging than usual, but there were a few decent screws and all the fixed anchors were easy to use.

Then we went to SMC today. We climbed the DNF thru the first three big steps via the M5 variation on the right of the 1st major pillar. Fun choss scaling, all you need is a grey C3.

There was a friendly party of 3 on the route as we rapped. Pictured below is their leader topping out on the slightly wet main pillar crux.

We went over and climbed Snowblind thru the first chockstone, the rest looked fine as well, but Davy caught a piece of ice with his nose and we opted for PBR at the Brown Bear.

Slow start, but some climbing can be done. Cheers, CC.

Eureka

Went over to check out Eureka today. Still pretty bony. I went part way up Gully 2, but every pocket of snow was cracking out, so I opted to bail before the final gully. Jim T. soloed Stairway though after I left, said the top outs were a little spicy but overall pretty fun.

Probably best to wait a bit longer before heading onto the ice for most folks.

Cheers. Think Cold Thoughts. CC

Skiing!

Our AMGA exam was cancelled today due to snow - so what else to do but get out and play in it!?

Ryan, Tracy, Bean and I (along with Avellana and Stella) went out later in the day on the second wave (Clint got out before us) for some wiggling in the white fluffy stuff.

While still a bit shallow of a snowpack - we had some great turns just off Red Mountain Pass. Here are some photos...

Seems like winter may be here to stay now?!

Ice climbing for Halloween

I think this may have been my earliest outing ever for ice... and what a great day it was. Drove up Eureka to take the skis and ice tools for a walk. On the drive we noticed a little flow just south of Whorehouse that looked good - and no skis needed. We drove a little higher to make sure it was the best looking flow; here's the report:

Stairway - thin, fragile looking, but had ice on all the pitches
1st & 2nd gullies and the rest of the S. facing flows - very wet, thin and falling down
Whorehouse - thin and lots of water, a little ice

Heard news of some very wet conditions and marginal ice in S. Mineral Creek, but didn't check it out.

Here's the flow we climbed. Sorry for the bad pic - all I had was the cell phone...


Also worthy of noting - there was good ice forming up on Gravity's Rainbow and the ice up in Bear Creek. The afternoon heat is melting it all fast though...

The Dolomites!

Just wrapped up 11 straight fantastic days in the Dolomites with Paul M. As always the company was fantastic, and the climbing was pretty good too! Here's the breakdown.

The view of the Tofana from Hotel Montana.

A friendly slobber to welcome us to Cortina! I'm a sucker for Saints.Day One. Paul cruising up Via Miriam on Torre Grande in the Cinque Torri. A classic 8 pitch UIAA V+, and a great way to get feel for the dolomite. Day Two: Torre Piccola di FalzaregoContemplating the Italian good life on top.Day 3: Torre Grande di Falzarego, just a little bigger and harder.Day 4: A well deserved rest day of sport climbing at Crepe du Oucera. Paul cranking away on the steep French grade 5c.Day 5: Spigolo Jori on Punta Fiames. Can you spot the line?
A little bit of air between Paul and the track as we approach the arete proper.On top with the hikers. Where did we come from?
Day 6: We went sport climbing at Sas di Stria. Too many pitches of French 5 to count.
Day 7: The Primo Spigolo, Tofana di Rozes. What can you say, its primo.10 pitches in with the famed Pilastro behind.Beautiful line. Worth another look.Day 8: The Grande linkup of the Torri di Falzarego. Clouds threatened, but Paul was getting pretty fast by now. Brits and Germans provided some good entertainment and motivation, but we were the first to the top!
Day 9: Via Ferrata di Innerkofler to the top of Paterno.

Day 10: Sport climbing in the rain under the huge overhangs at Landro. Paul cranked out 10+ pitches of stellar limetone that day, impressive. He was insistent we were first to be there, last to leave. the other guide thought we were a little weird, but dedicated.

Day 11: The beautiful Mazzorana route on Piz Popena Basso. Only 5 pitches, but sweet stemming for the last 60 meters. Then the crux of the trip, negotiating Piazza di Roma in the heart of Venice. Paul made it in, and i made it out alive. Mission accomplished.

The gorgeous Croda di Lago. Next year Paul?