Italy!! Dolomites, Venice & Rome
Overview
We went south to north because of availability of riffugi
Friday: Flight 3 pm. Layover Seattle. Layover Amsterdam. Arrive Venice Saturday 4 pm.
Saturday: cab from airport to Venice. Walked city. Stored bag. Train to Belluno. Walked to hotel.
Sunday: cab to la pissa. Hiked stage 11; 7.87 miles. 4852 ft of gain. Stayed at Ridfugio Pian de Fontana. (Steps: 23,578)
Monday: stages 9 and 10. Lunch at riffugio Pramperet. Stayed night at Roffugio Carestiato. 13.8 miles, 5167 ft gain (Steps: 44,636)
Tuesday. Stages 7 and 8. Lunch at Rif Vazzoler. Stayed at Riffugio Coldai. 12.24 miles, 4727 ft gain. (Steps: 39,725)
Wednesday: stages 5 and 6. Pastries at end of stage 6 at Rif Citta do Fiume (strüdel). Arrived at Averau, side trip to Nuvalau. 16 miles, 5300 feet gain. (Steps: 47,217)
Thursday: Down to Passo Falzarego then up to Lagazuoi. Bags went up in cable car. 1509 ft down, 2595 up. WW1 tunnels. 5.16 miles (Steps: 15,553)
Friday: Down then up and over Forcella di lago. Then a walk to Rif Lavarella. 8.6 mi, 1500 ft up, 3800 ft down. (Steps: 27,110)
Saturday: 14.5 miles. 3490 ft up, 5257 ft down. Lunch at rif Biella. Finished at Lago di Braies. Cab to Venice. San Marco square. Dinner. Shower. Sleep. (Steps 39,000)
Friday:
Finished packing and had that left-our-passports-at-home-moment. Then we hoped on the plane and headed to Seattle, then Amsterdam then Venice. I always love the little plane meals they give you. We watched The Quiet Place: Day One and Mr. and Mrs Smith. We got zero sleep on the planes. Okay that’s a lie, I slept an hour between Amsterdam and Venice. But it was just so great to be together, just the two of us!!! PS The Amsterdam airport is nice!
Saturday:
We finally got to Venice around 5:30. Met up with Jon and Jamie, and Jon was our tour guide around Venice. Venice is cool! I was expecting there to be more tourists, it was still busy, but not as bad as I thought. Also the food that we got just in Venice, the sandwhich. SO GOOD. At 7:31 we took a train to Belluno where we checked into our hotel room. Showered. Kissed. Then had the best night sleep of my life!!! So good.
Sunday: (Stage 11)
Alta Vida 1-here we come. We ended up doing the trail backwards (south to north). Simply because we couldn’t get rooms the normal way. The taxi dropped us off at 9:30. Leg 1 was about 8 miles. With 4,500 feet elevation gain. I literally got a blister within the first 30 minutes. But we stopped at lunch at the charmiest Rifugio Bianchet. And honestly the views for the last 4 miles were incredible. Majestic. How does this place exist. We ended up getting to Rifugio Pian de Fontana at 3:45pm. We unpacked, got our bed ready. Then played games and chatted and had delicious dinner, for the rest of then night. It’s been cold. Mostly because our garments get wet and then we just feel cold. But when you’re hiking it doesn’t feel too bad. Anyway. It’s now 1:27am. I’m sitting in the bathroom because I can’t sleep. There are 11 others sleeping in bunk beds with me! I’ll try to go back to sleep.
Side note: a couple noticed a brought “the Bible”. Really The Book of Mormon, but they couldn’t stop talking about it. Which led us into a conversation about the Book of Mormon. It was sweet.
Monday (Stage 10 and 9)
I’m not sure we really slept last night. But landon and I held hands across bunks and I loved that. There was a guy that was pretty sick all night, bless his heart. Lots of coughing.
We had yummy yogurt and warm milk for breakfast! Jon dunked his bread and Nutella in that warm milk. That was fun. We met a lovely couple who were 77!! Couples goals. Then we started our ascent. We climbed 2,500 feet in about 1.5 miles. And then descended 2,500 feet in 2.5 miles. It was incredible. And snowy and icy. Grateful sunny and not windy. We stopped at Rifugio Pramperet and had deer pasta and soup. The noodles were homemade and so yummy. We still had 8 miles to go. (Garmin said it was 14 total for the day, we did miss a turn once, but the math still doesn’t add up.) It was a long challenging hike. The terrain kept changing. It was rarely ever easy to just walk and look. But we did lots of stopping and admiring. We ended up getting to Rifugio Carestiato at 7:15. Dinner had already started but we were able to eat and check into our room by 8:30. So much nicer than last nights. Electricity and everyone. We spent basically all of our money at the first Rifugio we slept at. They only accepted cash and we were not expecting that. This Rifugio had the ability to take a warm shower for 3 euros for 3 minutes. Landon and I decided we would do it together. But it was a mess 😂. We wasted time trying to figure out which was hot and cold. Then we couldn’t really fit together. Then it actually stopped 2 minutes and 30 seconds into it. I was still washing my hair. But it was hilarious and memorable and I loved it! We washed our clothes in the sink and now they hang drying. Hopefully we get some better sleep for another adventure tomorrow!!
Tuesday: (Stage 8 and 7)
Wow!! Today was Spectacular. Easily our favorite day. Still about 13 miles and 4,500 feet climb. But it was just easier. The mountains here are like onions, there are just layers and layers and layers. You turn the corner and boom! Another 15 mountains to behold. Also, someone told Landon that he looked like Bradley Cooper, made his day. We bought a packed lunch, which saved us some good time. Jamie and Jon wanted to check out Tissi. So we split up the last two hours. And I loved hiking with Lando! We couldn’t stop laughing at how beautiful it all was. We got to Rifugio Coldai at about 5:30. In time to shower, wash our clothes, take a 12 minute warm shower (we bought two coins for 6 minutes each), read the scriptures, eat a yummy dinner and Skulk!! Oh and yummmmy hot chocolate. It was a lovely evening to a spectacular day. Just what I needed to prep for tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be so hard. Suppose to be around 15 miles. With over 5,000 feel of elevation gain. Saying my prayers now, in this cold rifguio, with 10 other people surrounding me in bunk beds. Such a fun experience!!!! Oh also, our waiter kept trying to sell us on wine, and I finally told him the four of us had never had alcohol. He didn’t even know what to do with that. It was hilarious!
Wednesday: (Stage 6 and 5)
We started off the day at 6:30am. We had a big decent initially, probably almost two miles. But when we got there, Jon and Landon told us we had gone the wrong way and we needed to go all the way back up. We looked up so sad. But then they told us they were joking. Phew!! But Jamie and I were so calm when they told us. We stopped at the Rifugio Cita de Fuime. And the strudel there was amazing. And it gave me strudel power!!! This was a 16 mile day and it was tough and challenging and we just kept walking all day long. We had lunch in a beautiful valley with lots of rocks. And an Italian told us to move because rocks might fall on us. We didn’t. And lived to tell the tale. It’s crazy how every turn and every time we went up and over a mountain the view was just spectacular. The thing I loved most about today is you could see the mountain that we had come from basically the whole way. So by the time we had walked 16 miles, 48,000 steps, and were 7,500 feet elevation, we could look back and see where we had come from. We stayed at Rifugio Averau which had FREE SHOWERS! And they were warm. But you did have to We were able to do an extra hike to the top of Nuvolau which was beautiful. We met some British friends who told us we had gone “a long walk” and I challenged them on their use of the word walk. Europeans apparently use “walk” in place of the word hike. And it’s very misleading. I made sure they knew that. We ended the night with a nice dinner and bed. Sometimes these dorms are tricky because some people don’t want to go to bed and so there is a weird balance of when you can turn lights off or not. Landon was feeling sick so he crashed early but I had to wait until the lights went off to go to bed.
I was grateful for the washer and dryer! We were able to wash and dry some clothes! We’ve been doing some of that in the sink. This was better!!
Ps: We ended up going off trail and bouldering up the mountain. That was pretty wild. Jamie had her long poles which made even trickier 😂
Thursday (Stage 4)
I loved today. It was a rest day. But SOOOO cool to go through a tunnel, in the middle of the mountain, to get to the top of the mountain. We are at the highest elevation today. Rifugio Lagazou. We got in at 1:00 and had the yummiest lunch. Beet ravioli. Then I spent some time reading and writing in bed. Which was so nice. Jon and Lando discussed politics. Jamie kept the peace. I want a little more of today.
At dinner we sat with Mel and Hugh. Discussed Australia, London, Fútbol, parenting. It was fun! Also more Skull King. Then Landon and I cuddled for a little bit and went to bed.
Friday (Stage 3)
This stage would have been SO hard if it was the other direction. But for us, we climbed all the way down the mountain to the base, then climbed all the way up Forcella di lago, then all the way down down down to Rifugio Lavarella. We had a yummy lunch!! Homemade spinach pasta with meat sauce on top. But the dessert was DELICIOUS!! I think this is such a fun way to travel. Hut to hut!
Landon booked a sauna for all of us. He’s been so excited about it all week. Don’t tell him, but I kind of liked it. We would sit in the hot for 15 minutes, then pour freezing water on us, then sit back in the sauna for 15. It was fun and helped my knees for a little bit!
Cuddles, dinner and bed!
Saturday (Stage 2 and Stage 1).
Last day. And it felt a little overwhelming to be honest. We knew we needed to leave at 7:00, to make it to our taxi in time to drive 3+ hours to Venice. And then we wanted to see San Marco still. Soooo long day. We were all under the impression that it would be mostly downhill. Which was good and bad, but overall downhill is just easier. After our intiakly 3,000 feet decent, Landon sheepishly admitted and then pointed to the MOUNTAIN we had to climb back UP. About 3/4 of the way up that mountain, Jonathan reported we had just climbed as high as we had walked down. Haha! Slow and steady.
We had our packed lunch at Rifugio Biella. We also had some hot chocolate and tiramisu. Then we began our decent. My KNEES! It was hard. But once I saw the lake, I felt like horse who sees it home and I just started hobble running down the mountain. I can’t believe we did. 78.2 miles!!!
We bought and ornament, went to the bathroom and hopped in a taxi. No time
To waste!
My PACKING LIST(in my hiking backpack)
3 shirts
2 pants
1 shorts
2 sports bras
3 socks
3 garments
1 hiking shoe
1 hut shoe (slip on sandals)
1 fleece top
1 rain jacket
1 puffy coat
1 pair of thermals
1 small pillow
1 Book of Mormon and pens
Ear plugs
Duct tape wrapped around a pen.
Chapstick
Shampoo and soap
Razor
Face wash and lotion and sunscreen
Deodorant
Toothbrush/toothpaste/floss
Towel
A shower cap which I never used
Rubber bands
Brush
Sunglasses
Gloves
Warm hat
Poles
Water bladder
Gum
Mints
Charger
2 packing cubes. That started off as clothes and warm additions. And ended up as dirty and clean bags.
I think I packed pretty well! I might have brought some electrolytes and something to cover my eyes at night. I probably did not need 3 shirts or thermals. But you never know and they are light. Sometimes I wished I had my headband for my ears instead of a hat, cause my hair always had to be down with a hat. But it was doable. I wished I had a swimsuit when we sauna’d. But I just wore my shorts and bra. They are still wet in the bag, but they are more versatile than a swim suit. It’s fun to be able to make do with what you have!! Oh I definitely wished I had body wipes! For the nights a shower wasn’t feasible. A small wash cloth would have been nice.
Sunday!
BYU won this morning, that was a crazy game and we watched it over FaceTime in Venice.
Last night we went to San Marco. Today we trained to Padova where Jonathan lived when his parents were mission leaders. We went to church and to Joelle’s home for a home cooked meal! That was really cool to experience. The people loved Jonathan there. And Jamie too. It was beautiful to witness such love!!
Then we trained down to Rome! Walked to our hotel from the train station. Had the most delicious dinner ever!!! La Tavernetta 48. It’s right by our Hotel, Hotel Albergo del Senato. Which is right be the Pantheon. Jonathan’s parents joined us! We needed up ditching a bit early to FaceTime our boys, but really just got Brigs most of the time!
Monday:
Landon and I had an early start. We got some pastries and walked around! Met j&j at The Vatican or St Peters. Wow! After that we toured the Vatican museum and the Sistine chapel. Wow wow!!
Gelato where President Nelson got gelato. And a yummy TikTok sandwhic shop! All'Antico Vinaio.
We biked to St Sebastian’s Catacombs! Wild. Both the biking and the catacombs. I’m glad we didn’t die, but if we had, we were heading to the right place.
Lando and I spent the evening biking, walking and eating then sleeping!
Tuesday
Last day!!! This was my favorite day in Rome. Part of that was because we got some decent sleep night before. But most of it was just what we did. We went inside the Pantheon. Which was truly so cool. Built around the time of Christ and still being used. Really the only building in Rome that has stayed in operation from that time period. The hole in the top, and the design and the architecture…. It’s brilliant. I don’t understand how they did that back around 40AD.
Then we walked “about 20 minutes” to the Borghese Museum. Jonathan described it as the most dense masterpieces in one place. And he was not wrong. The sculptures and paintings were mind blowing. Berninis stuff was particularly moving and beautiful and impossible—yet he made it possible.
Apollo and Daphne
The Rape of Proserpine
The David.
Then we went to the temple. And it was such a contrast being in so many cathedrals and basilicas that last few days, to come here and experience much more peace and much more Jesus, ironically. Jonathans parents gave us the VIP tour and the visitor center was pretty remarkable. The temple was even better but sadly closed!! So we walked the grounds and saw the diagram and movie of the temple.
We chatted with Jonathan’s parents for a minute then made our way back to Rome! Bought too many souvenirs for our kiddos and people we love. Then went to the best restaurant of the trip probably, Virginia’s. Next to the Pantheon. Carbanora is incredible. I’ll never be able to eat pasta the same. Jamie convinced Jonathan to let her use his birthday money to buy a dancing cat singing Shania Twain. And we didn’t stop laughing about it the rest of the night. We got ice cream and one more full size pizza to share and eat on the steps of the Pantheon. It felt full circle, eating a Margarita Pizza on the burial ground of Margarita herself. While listening to music that has certainly never been played on those steps. For a moment, we were apart of The Pantheon’s long life!
It was a wonderful trip! The Dolomites were incredible. We felt grateful to see Rome and Venice with exceptionally underpaid tour guides in Jon and Jamie!!! And we are going home more sore and more tired than when we left!!! But grateful for the pictures and videos we have to remember!
Two more things to mention:
1: THANK YOU BECCA BECCA FOR FILLING MY BOYS LIFE WITH LOVE AND JOY AND GOOD. We are so lucky to know you and claim you as family
2: Landon ordered sparkling water on the flight home.
3: okay one more! We love you Jonathan and Jamie!!! You guys are pretty incredible!!! Maybe one day we will be as good as you.
Day 1: Travel and Venice
Day 2: Stage 11
Day 3: Stage 10 & 9
Day 4: Stage 8&7
Day 5: Stage 6&5
Day 6: Stage 4
Day 7: Stage 3
Day 8: Stage 2&1 and Venice
Day 9: Padova, Travel, Paris (BYU WINS)
Day 10: ROME
Day 11: Rome & TEMPLE
