I'm having such an amazing vacation! From Gondar, we were driven in a rather nice van up towards the Simien Mountains. The drive itself was quite stunning, beautiful fields of teff, wheat, barley, oats and lots of horses, cows and sheep everywhere. The colours, and the plain "pastoralism" of the scenes were fascinating. The bright yellow Meskel flowers were in full bloom, and it was so beautiful. We had a very comfortable van to drive in, and a friendly driver, Tamret, who had good taste in music. I gotta get. Y hands on some Teddy Afro music! Not only that, but he was a good driver - not something to take for granted around here. He was cautious enough, and you could tell he was looking ahead and anticipating what was coming, but still confident enough to know what the van could do. And this was all very comforting once we goth to some of the crazy roads in the mountains!
We drive for a few hours, then eventually got to a town called Debark, where we picked up a "scout" and a guide for the mountains. The scouts are a requirement, and the guide was part of our package deal. The scout was this wizened older man, toting an old Kalashnikov rifle and a plastic bag with a bottle of water and a blanket. Our guide was a you get guy, all smiles and full of useful information. The highlight of this little town was the fresh garlic int he market! Never seen (or smelled!) anything quite like it!
Once we left Debark, we started climbing up the road into the mountains proper. The road was amazing, the views were stunning, and Tamret was getting a kick out of me wanting to stop to take photos all the time!
We made it to the lodge In time to have a late lunch, then went for a walk around the edge of the escarpment with our guide and our scout. The dear scout was such a gentleman, and was quite concerned that we kept our footing and didn't fall off any cliffs! This old wizened man has been a scout for years, and you can tell that he's been climbing up and down those mountain trial since he was a toddler! Me, on the other hand, was having a hard time catching my breath at over 10,000 feet! Good thing I've been Zumba-ing! It was so nice to walk through the forest and enjoy the beautiful views, and just be hiking in nature once again! So refreshing to the soul.
We also found big troops of gelada baboons, which aren't nearly as ugly or scary as the normal east african baboons that I'm used to. These baboons just sit on their butts all day, eating grass! They were great to watch. And our guide, of course, knew all about the plants and trees and stuff. So we got lots of good info, too... Which, of course, I've forgotten most of already. I'll blame that on the altitude!
I had a lovely evening, sitting around the fire, sipping tea and chatting with other Guests and guides and drivers. The best part was that when you leave the main lodge to go to your tukel, they give you a hot water bottle to sleep with. And seriously, you need a hot water bottle to keep warm! It was COLD up there! A feather duvet, wooly socks, a big fuzzy blanket and a hot water bottle, though, made for a beautifully cozy sleep. There was no way I'd be equipped to do a back packing trek through these mountains like a lot of people do.
The following day, we drove down the road to Chennek camp, taking lots of photos along the way, and took a hike to hunt for the walia ibex. We didn't have to walk too far, when we found a group of the rare creatures, which are found only in this park. We also spent some time just munching on homemade granola bars (which my friend had made!) and enjoying the views. At the camp, we were able to eat some shiro and injera, to fortify ourselves for the next hike to a waterfall.
It worked out that for quite a long way, Sheri was walking up front with the guide, chatting away in Amharic, and I was A bit behind with the scout, who was also chatting away in amharic! He was trying to teach me - so I mimicked quite a lot of what he said, to his satisfaction, but I haven't a clue what any of it meant. The dear old guy didn't speak hardly a word of English! But he was very sweet!
The road was stunning - just a rocky path winding and clinging to the side of the mountains, with some pretty steep switch backs along the way! Like I said, I was glad that the driver seemed to be very able, and very careful, as well as very experienced on that road. We had a really nice time all together with out little party. It felt a bit odd to be going everywhere with "our" scout, guide and driver (for just the two of us travellers!) but we couldn't have done this sort of trip any other way, without our own vehicle. Park rules require that you take a scout, and the guide... Well. He came with the tour package that we booked, and really, we would have had no idea where to go or what to do. It's a national park, but nothing like Banff where you have signs and maps and brochures to tell you where to go!
We stayed a second night in the lodge, and then got up bright and early to return to Gondar yesterday. We had a local lunch of what has now become my favourite Ethiopian food - tagabino with injera. So, so, so good. But they only make it in some parts of the country. Tamret was very kind after lunch and was willing to take us to the market to buy some scarves. Gondar is in the heart of Amhara culture, and the white scarves you can find there are cheaper and more beautiful than elsewhere. So we bought a few :) I think tamretnwas officially done his duties with us, but he was doing us a favour, because Sherri charmed him with her perfect Amharic :) I just do a lot of nodding and smiling and trying to look pretty, while she does all the talking!
This morning, we got on another plane, joining the throngs of tourists, and came to Lalibela. It was almost a bit surreal to be standing in some of those churches, seeing them with. Y own eyes, because I have wanted to see them for so long! I've seen so many pictures of them, and have been quite fascinated by them for several years now... And here I am! I took rather a lot of pictures (which are all on my camera, and I have no way to get them from the camera to the iGadget ;( ) the history,a nd the culture... So rich. Our guide here is an Orthodox man himself, so it was really fascinating to watch him kiss the doors and do his bowing and crossing each time we entered into a new church. It's also good to get the story and explanations of the churches from someone who believes it.
He was also quite funny in that he didn't like big tour groups, and we were constantly trying to stay anead of (or behind) a couple of larger groups - Chinese, Italians, and Germans seemed to be the main nationalities of tourists today. Some times I think the tourists are more interesting to watch than the actual sights! One of the tips we had gotten from friends in addis was to use bug spray before entering the churches. They said that fleas often live in the carpets, and since you have to take your shoes off to enter each church, the fleas are some times a problem. Apparent,y others had heard that too, as they were wearing long knee socks, with trousers tucked in, and we're seen spraying their feet before entering the churches! I just wore my chacos, with bare feet, and sprayed before I left the hotel! So far, so good in terms of no flea bites. After running around I bare feet all day, though, a good foot wash is going to feel good before bed!
The churches really were amazing, though. It's not really quite what I expected - they ere all a bit closer together than I thought, and st George's church was smaller than I thought. But it was all still amazing the way they built those places, and all the symbolism and tradition that just drip from the stone.
Tonight, we are staying at yet another beautiful hotel. We watched the sunset for our private balcony, and. Ow I'm sitting int he lobby, sipping tea and enjoying a bit of CNN on the telly. There were so many tourists everywhere today at the churches, but thre don't seem to be many staying at this same hotel. Sherri booked a package deal through a travel agent in addis, so I don't really know what all the other options for hotel etc are. But I know that so far, things have been beautiful. Having a package deal is definitely the way to go - they even confirm our flights for us, and make sure we have everything that we need. No haggling for taxi fares or guide prices... It's all taken care of by the agents. Definitely a relaxing way to travel, and I wouldn't recommend to do this sort of trip any other way.
Tomorrow we fly into Axum, and the following day, it's back to Addis already. Saturday, I fly to a small Town in western Ethiopia to help with a teacher training workshop! So at the very least, I'm seeing a good chunk of this country this month!