Fifteen years ago, a younger, self-occupied and pretentious self stepped out of the concrete jungle he called home to embark on a trip to Vietnam. Under the pretext of community service, we delivered books and writing materials to a school deep in the mountainous region of Lao Cai. The rest of the trip ignited a wanderlust that continued to haunt me till this day - we trekked through the hills of Sapa, walked across freezing streams, rode pillion on motorbikes down the winding routes and talked to the local Hmongs. We crossed the land via trains - sleeping on uncomfortable decks, the tracks rumbling as we tried to prevent ourselves from knocking our heads on the ceilings. The tungsten street lamps lighted our paths as we zipped through the old town on trishaws. The smells and sights familiar to me; the rancid whiffs of urine, sewage and pork in the air - a reminder of my childhood in Chinatown.
We had banh mi on one of the mornings at a local eatery, the room filled with the raucous sounds of a foreign language; from the window we could see the streams of people moving past on their bicycles, ring-a-ding-ling. I had not developed a liking for coffee at that age, but I could see the locals sipping their jet black coffee from cups that only traditional stalls used back home. We visited monuments, museums and behaved like how pubescent young boys did (basically goofing off). It was on this very trip that ignited the love of exploration - something I'm grateful for, especially for our teacher who brought us to a land he loved, rife with history and culture; away from the staid classrooms that stifled our imaginations.
For years, I resisted the temptation to revisit the land, afraid that my perfect memories would be tainted. Development came fast to Vietnam in those years - having abandoned a planned economy for capitalism. Bicycles were replaced by motorbikes as a burgeoning young middle class emerged from the shadows. Vietnam always beckoned, yet I resisted; a faint notion of romanticism, a nolstagia.
In October this year, as we planned for our annual getaway in December, we thought of diving in Philippines. The threat of monsoon (which actually became a reality) forced us to choose somewhere not too far yet reasonably priced. The cheap flights and supposedly good weather in the south of Vietnam were compelling reasons for us to book our tickets three months in advance.
We spent a good six days on a beach in Phu Quoc, soaking up the sun and just winding down from an extremely hectic year. We walked along the beach at night after hanging out for a few hours at the beach bar, stepping over blue fluorescent algae that washed to shore with each lapping wave. Just as the rains started arriving, we departed for Saigon, having received our dosage of vitamin D.
Landing at the airport not far from town, I slowly took in the sights of the city as our taxi weaved among the throngs of motorbikes. In many ways, Saigon resembled any other South East Asia, filled with haphazard planning and congested roads. The streets bustled with the roar of motorbikes, street vendors hustled passerbys and a number of construction projects littered the capital. I was back where it all started, albeit that it was Hanoi's old world charm that spoke to me more. Nevertheless, it felt somewhat surreal to feel the life of the city beneath my feet.
In Saigon, we stayed mainly in District 1, hardly venturing out of the area because we realised that there was just so much to discover! Contrary to what the naysayers told us, we found the city to be so amazing, so full of life, a mix of European, American and Asian flavours. Prior to the trip, quite a number of people remarked that we were spending too much time there, Ho Chi Minh City is a boring place, they warned.
Here, we could feel the growing excitement for the future as the inhabitants went about their daily lives. We loved the coffee culture, sitting right by a busy junction, drinking overtly sweet coffee, just watching the world go by. At every street corner, an enterprise took root, capitalism wholly embraced by the people.
Despite the craziness of the city, we found spaces that we could just disappear into. At the cosy Italian restaurant that we went to for dinner (Ciao Bella), the enthusiastic maitre'd served us authentic Italian food which tasted better than most of the restaurants we had back home. The simplicity of the dishes, coupled with the fresh ingredients made the meal truly memorable. (The easy to drink Sicilian wine helped.)
Another night we had French food at an unassuming restaurant, its interiors a copy of any restaurant you find in Paris. Run by a local family, it was popular with French expatriates here. Even now, a week later, I can still taste the aromatic and delicious French onion soup, the melted cheese on top of a crunchy crouton. I hardly write or rave about food but this place just reminded me of France (and I have never been there).
We walked everywhere we went and found this jazz bar on one of the main roads in the city. Curious, we popped in after dinner and heard talented musicians and singers belt it out on stage. It was unbelievable how a few metres away from the entrance was a road teeming with scooters. As we sat through the songs, webfelt our souls lifted up by the amazing singers, transporting us into another era and another time. What a truly magical experience!
After the bar closed (too early, I must say), the French guy who played the guitar directed us to the backpackers' district as we wanted to experience another slice of Saigon at night. We were totally not prepared for what we found there - rows upon rows of tourists and locals sitting on tiny chairs by the roadside, drinking bottles of beer that cost less than a dollar each (24,000 dong for 2 bottles!). We found a spot and sat there people watching. The Yakuza-like guy covered in tattoos opposite us gave us a false sense of comfort. Some white guys peddled helium balloons for people to get high on and I seriously felt revolted by them. A fight almost broke out sometime into the night but it was really tame compared to places like Bangkok.
Saigon has undergone so much transformation in the last decade and a half. It is a city so full of possibilities (and hipster cafes). With a large population under the age of thirty, the rising middle class would bring along more wealth and demands on the city's resources. I am keenly aware that there could also be potential business opportunities there. After experiencing a tiny part of this crazy little city, I think I have fallen for Vietnam's charm once again. Things may be different now but I am excited to discover more.