I have a love-hate relationship with Baroque/Rococo ornament. While some things can be (in my opinion) over-decorated with scrolls and fruit and
putti, I find I am always attracted to needlework of this period. I think a lot of it has to do with my love of texture.
Bandera Embroidery from the
Piedmont region of Italy has the same effect on me. Sometimes there is absolutely too much ornament but mostly, if it is tastefully done, I love to look at it.
This embroidery style takes its name from the fabric it is stitched on, legend tells that it was first produced in
Chieri a small town near
Turin at the end of the 16th century. Recent studies however have led scholars to believe the cloth to have Turkish origins and to have already been well-known in the Piedmont region in the latter 15th century.
Today's
Bandera fabric is 100% cotton and looks like this:
Long before
Elena had
Italian Needlecrafts in Milan, she hunted down some
Bandera fabric and sent it to me. I could not find anything like it around where I live. A lady at a local fabric shop told me to look for
Piquet but I never found any of that either, so I can't tell you how similar it is. I believe Elena found it for me at the
Canetta store in Milan.
The idea to embroider on this fabric seems to date to the late 17th century, reaching its full height of popularity during the 18th century. Usually done in wool, the embroidery employs the
Chain Stitch, Satin Stitch and
Padded Satin Stitch, Long and Short Stitch, French Knots and
Stem Stitch. Originally executed in one colour of either Savoy Blue or Wine Red, it evolved to include gold-yellow, greens and shades of pink. Wools used recently were DMC Medici Wools but I don't know what they are using now after DMC has discontinued this line.
In later centuries the tradition of this embroidery continued, various workshops were opened and products were made such as slip covers for armchairs and sofas, headboard covers for beds, cushions, bedspreads, tablecloths, footstool covers and curtains taking gold medals for excellence in the various World's Fairs of the day and carrying out commissions for the Italian Royal Family. In recent years it has known a revival, many embroidery schools in Italy, particularly in the Piedmont region teach courses and participate in exhibitions. There are often pictures in the Italian embroidery magazines of
Bandera Embroidery.
Anna Ghigo in her booth at the
Italia Invita Forum 2007 with all her
Bandera Embroidery behind her:
There are some photos of
Bandera Embroidery at
this website, click on "English Version" and then "Bandera Embroidery" (top right corner).
Tuttoricamo has more information about
Bandera Embroidery under the "Techniques" heading; under the "Prominent Characters" section you can read about
Anna Ghigo, President of the
Association Amici del Ricamo Bandera of
Chieri - check out her beautiful work!
I have three books on this needlework:
La pittura ad ago in Piemonte - Il "Bandera" by
Margherita Goglino, 2002. The text is in Italian though at the back of the book are three pages in English, French and Spanish with a bit of a summary. Lots of pictures of embroideries from private and museum collections, some patterns and stitch diagrams as well as historical info.
Il Mio Bandera by
Gisella Tamagno Gazzola, 2007. (click on her name to go to her website and see some of her amazing work) This book is in Italian and English. It has historical info, stitch diagrams, colour photos of embroideries, designs and instructions on how to carry out some elements.
Il Ricamo Bandera, L'arte della pittura ad ago by the
Associazione Amici del Ricamo Bandera, 2009. (click on the link to go to their website for some photos and info (some of it in English) This is a small book with lots of colour photos. Most of the text is in Italian but some of the picture captions are in English as well.
The
Associazione Tradizioni Piemontesi sells kits for cushions, though you'd have to write to them for prices and forms of payment. The teacher
Piera Girardi always has beautiful works displayed at the
Italia Invita Forums.
Mani di Fata sells a
book of iron-on patterns for
Bandera Embroidery with stitch diagrams and ideas for application.
Thanks to Giovanna for the photo!