name game pattern giveaway

Alright, you lovely people, I need some help again.

As I've blogged before, I'm a not as clever as I'd like to be. The slim fit, hipster trouser pattern is moving into the final stages, but there's a small hitch. Since ya'll were incredibly helpful with naming what is now the Birdie Britches pattern, I thought maybe you'd enjoy another challenge.

The trouser pattern is a one piece (plus pocket), easy and quick unisex style, designed for the tall and thin preschooler, who like to wear their pants down on their hips. Like my girl. I can't tell you how much it drives me wild to have her push all of her pants and skirts way down past her natural waist line to rest them on her hips. Apparently I'm not the only one with waistband aversion. Others have written to say how their preschoolers push the waistband down, but then end up walking around with an unfortunate amount of exposure on the backside. These trousers have been designed with a high back so that the band-on-hip comfort requirement is met for the child as well as the hide-the-crack parental desire.


Now they are all done, ready for the tall and slim children 3-6 years old. All they need now is a name. For my own reference, I have been calling them 'Smootchie Specials', because their design in based on Smootchie's not exactly off the rack physique. However, my daughter's nickname, as innocent and sweet it was when I started using it during her first few days of life, has some other cultural references that really do not relate to my kid. Calling them Smootchie Specials makes it sound like it was smuggled across borders in a single engine airplane. But what should they be called?

If you would like to the play the name game, please leave a suggestion (comment) on this post. On Sunday evening (February 21st) I will go through and award any suggestion I use with a free pdf pattern (your choice) from my shop or you can have a copy of this trouser pattern if you can hold on a week for me to bring it all together.

I will also make a random number draw with all entries (one per a customer, thank you) for another chance to win a free pdf pattern.

Good luck, have fun :)



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Hey there! I am extending the contest deadline by 24 hours because it's Sunday night and I am way too wiped out to handle it all :D So the draw and name decision will happen Monday, February 22 about 9ish pacific time. Cheers!

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I'm back!

I have found myself a random draw winner - Jade, I have emailed you already!

I also have two winners for the name suggestion, Andrea and Kathryn. Andrea, I have sent you a message, but Kathryn who-thinks-of-Mr-Dress-Up (I loooooove Mr Dress Up!) could you please send me an email at vegbee@littleprintdesigns.com so we can set you up with a free pdf pattern?

Ah, now the true name of the pattern formally with the working title of Smootchie Specials:

(dum dum dum dum dum dummmmm)

will be revealed next week....

I will say that the name is not actually mentioned in the comments, although it was heavily inspired by Andrea and Kathryn's suggestions.

And I will also say that it was incredibly fun to read all the suggestions and I have a page full of notes I jotted down as I read through them all. You guys are funny and smart and good to me. Thank you.

yoke assembly (a la Revolutions Frock)

Dear kind sir, could you tell me where to find a photo obese tutorial on how to assemble a yoke?

Look no further, Fair Maiden, then the place where you already are.

Hmmm... that sounds like some sort of zen gobblity-gook. I'll just go ask mama instead.

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Shall we?

This tutorial is based on my Revolutions Frock pattern in response to a few queries for more info on the yoke construction. The yoke is not a difficult maneuver, but it can be a bit tricky the first time you approach it. Sometimes you have to take a step that doesn't come relevant until nearly the end of construction, such as sewing in some guideline stitches for later. I suggest finding a bit of time to sew the yoke when there are no children around clamoring for your attention. And there should also be cookies. Maybe some wine. Anyway.

It's not necessary to have the Revolutions Frock pattern to use this tutorial. It will help anyone gain a general understanding of yoke construction (though, depending on your closures, it does vary) and, hey, you can always use it to construct your own pattern too. There is some information on making a yoke pattern here.

Let's get going!

Cutting the Yoke

The yoke is cut from two pattern pieces. Both ask you to Cut 2. For the Front Yoke, fold your fabric (wrong or right sides together) to cut two mirrored pieces.


Transfer the center mark onto your pattern pieces with chalk.


My fabric here in is actually a knit fabric that I have stabilized with a lightweight fusible interfacing to make it act like a woven material. You can see interfacing side is where my center mark is put (yes, there are three lines; ignore the outside two).

The Back Yoke is cut on a fold, which makes it symmetrical, so you do not have to worry about making a mirrored piece. Either make one fold and cut out twice or double fold and cut once.


Use the pattern piece is mark the center.


And all together (the white bits are just the fusible interfacing that has gone over the edge):


Sewing the Yoke

The instructions say,

Align the shoulder mark on one back yoke piece with the shoulder mark on one front yoke piece, right sides together. Stitch shoulder. Open seam and press. Repeat for other front and back yoke pieces.

That looks like this:


That is, you are sewing the end of one Back Yoke piece to the end of a Front Yoke piece on the side without the closure. (It's the shorter side from the center.)

Repeat for the other two yoke pieces.


When you press them open, they come together to make a 'C'. This is both the inside and outside yoke pieces, right sides together:

Align raw edges and pin the center of the front bodice to the center mark on the front yoke piece, right sides together. From the center outwards, secure the raw edges of the yoke to the front bodice with pins. Stitch yoke in place. This will be the outside yoke piece.

The bodice will not lay flat nicely for this seam, so extra pinning is necessary. Place your center mark of a Front Yoke piece (now part of the big 'C') in the middle of the bodice (gathered portion), right sides together. Pin.


Working from the center mark outwards, pin the yoke to the bodice. The bodice will curl around the yoke. One side pinned, from center outwards:

Now both sides.


Here is a view of the other side of the bodice pinned to the yoke:


And stitch it on.

Align raw edges and marks, and pin the back bodice to the back of the outside yoke piece, right sides together. As with the front yoke piece, pin from the middle outwards and stitch the back bodice to the yoke.

This is the same procedure, just with the back portion. Center mark on the Back Yoke to center Back Bodice.

Pin from middle outwards,


and stitch in place.

Congratulations, you've now got the Outside yoke attached to the bodice.


Still pretty rough, isn't it? The next step is to prepare the edges of the yoke that will not be sewn onto either the bodice or the yoke itself to be folded under and top stitched. What I'm talking about will become clear a bit later. For now, let's just go for it.

The instructions say,

On the outside yoke piece, stitch along the
bottom edge between the bodice pieces.
This will be a guideline for pressing the yoke
into a curve.

Start by tucking up your bodice pieces towards the middle of the yoke so you can have access to the bottom edge.


At the bit of yoke between the two bodice pieces, stitch (machine baste) along the curve at the 3/8" mark (the seam allowance).


That's all you have to do with that right now.

Turn over to your Inside Yoke piece (the other 'C') for the next bit:

On the inside yoke piece (which is not attached to the bodices), stitch a seam all along the bottom curve. This will be a guideline for pressing the inside yoke into a curve.

Look closer to see a line of stitching (machine basting) all around the outside of the 'C' at 3/8".


And now we can stop worrying about that bit too. The stitches we just put into the Front Yoke between the bodices and around the outside of the Back Yoke are going to help us later on. Right now it's time to marry together the Front and Back Yokes.

Align the outside and inside yoke pieces, right sides together. Pin and stitch the yoke as indicated by the illustration to the right. This will close the ends of the yoke and inside curve.

Here is the illustration:


It seems like taking the long way around, but basically you are just sewing together as many seams as possible before turning the yoke right side out. Start by pinning the yokes together,


and place your needle just a hair's distance from where the bodice is joined to the yoke.


Then sew towards the end of the 'C' on the outside, follow the corners, turn into the middle curve, all the way around the inside track, turn again at the other corners, and finish just where the bodice meets on the other side.


You can see in the above photo how the stitching goes from the ends along the inside, but does not go over the portion where the bodices are attached.

Clip the corners and curves all around the yoke on both inside and outside pieces. Turn yoke right side out and press ends.

All around the yoke, both sides, need clips in order to make a smooth curve. The more clips the better, though watch out not to cross the stitching. All along there should be either a seam or a the indicator stitches we sewed in earlier, so there should be no place where you may be tempted to clip too deep.


Turn the bodice inside out and press the seams.


Now you will see you have a couple places where you need to deal with the raw edges. Here is where the indicator stitches become relevant. The instructions say,

Use the guideline stitching between the bodice pieces to press the yoke into a curve.

That is the portion on the Top Yoke between the bodices that isn't attached to anything.


Fold that little bit back, using the indicator stitches as a guide, and press into a curve.


May as well press the bodice seams up into the yoke now too.


Ah, so smooth!

Use the guideline stitching to press the
bottom sides of the inside yoke into a
curve.

Okay, same deal as the bit between the bodices, but this time it's a bit bigger: the whole bottom bit of the inside yoke. Tuck in the seam allowance, folding along the guideline stitching, and press.


If it's not turning out perfect, don't worry. This is the inside of the yoke, no one will see it really. Do make sure that the portion between the bodices is nicely curved and aligned - this part will be prominent on the shoulder. Add some more clips if it'll help with a smoother curve.

If your fabric doesn't like to say put when pressed, pin as you go. You will have to pin anyway when you are done before you can stitch the whole bodice closed.

Top-stitch all around yoke at ¼” from edge.
Follow with a second top stitch at the 1/8”
mark (exactly in between the ¼” stitch and
the edge). Press stitching.

Which means just that. Using the edge of your presser foot as a guide, stitch along the whole outer edge of the 'C'. When I stitch, I put it with the right side up (or Outside Yoke out) and feel along the bottom side with my fingers to make sure the Inside Yoke bottom edge is still tucked in.


With one round of top stitching done, a second line is put in half way between the first round and the edge of the yoke. The reason is that your first go may have missed some of the tucked up inside yoke. If you only want to put in one round of top stitching, make it at the 1/8" mark, just to make sure the inside is secure.


Almost there!

Overlap the yoke ends, according to overlap
mark on front yoke pattern piece and install
two snaps on overlap.

What I do is put a couple of snaps (or, least the male bits) on the long overlapping part,


and then fold over the overlap and pin where the dress seems natural. A good time to try it on someone. You want to make sure that the shoulders are sitting even and nothing being pulled out of alignment. Pin the overlap in place while you mark where the other half of the snaps should go.


All done.


I hope this clears up any confusion (or avoids it) for constructing the yoke portion of the Revolution's Frock. Let me know either way so I can tweak this tutorial or bask in the glow of straight forward, albeit pic-heavy, tutorial.


One last note about Smootch's dress here. The apron is an add on to the pattern, one I am absolutely enamored with. Smootch loves it too - it's a perfect Cinderella dress, with the apron handy for her floor scrubber days and the rest twirly enough for a princess. We are both so goofy happy with this dress! So, thank you to those who have asked for additional yoke instructions for the opportunity to a make it. It has truly been my, and Smootch's, pleasure.

A question and a boy

Hi all! I've got a question for those of you who have tall and thin preschoolers. Hello! I have a thin one too. Just don't call her 'skinny', she gets really uptight: 'skinny' isn't 'pretty'.

Here's my situation: As I am just resizing my Smootchie Specials hipster pants pattern, I am trying to figure out if Smootch's dimensions are fairly standard among the tall and thin children set, or if my little darling is an oddball. If anyone is inclined, could you pass along the waist, hip and out seam (from hip bone to ankle bone, down the side of the leg) measurements of your t & l s? Either comment here or send me a message at vegbee@littleprintdesigns.com. I will enter all of the responses into a draw and send along a free copy of the Smootchie Don't-Call-Me-Skinny Specials when it is finished.

Thank you :)

One more thing, here is a couple pictures for Miss Amy, who commented the other day that her boy is a fabric sitter onner, when trying to cut out patterns.

This may seem familiar:


I've started using his stubborn defiance to help me out, by using his bulk as a pattern weight. Since he refuses to move once he gets down on top of the pattern, I can just steady the pattern piece under him, gently adjust his bulk as needed, and cut the piece out underneath him. Another reason to use sturdy paper for patterns instead of flimsy tissue paper.

Defiance action shot:

"No No No No No No No No"

snack backpack

The girl child needed a new bag to take snacks in - her regular one now holds 10 pounds of safety gear, such as a helmet and wrist guards, we force her to wear whenever she wants to ride one of her wheelie things.


I made Smootch a modified version of my toddler backpack, using a zipper from some vinyl packaging a bedspread came in, extra wide single fold bias tape, and some rainbow stripey strapping I found in a thrift store (it was totally a steal too, only a $1.50 and I have some 40 yards left). The backpack fabric is a Free Store find, a Holly Hobbie curtain I've been holding onto for months, waiting for the right project.


To make the backpack, I used the back piece from the original back pack pattern, cut 2, and fused them to medium weight interfacing.

The side strap is two pieces of strapping laid side by side. I put the zipper in,


and then, because the strapping was being so accommodating, sewed together the straps with a zigzag stitch.


The single fold bias tape was sewn to the edges of the strapping, and then to the front and back of the pack. A little loop at the top made from the bias tape ensures that the back pack will hang on a hook nice and flat.



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