Even though puppies don’t start losing their teeth until around 12 weeks of age and generally have their entire set of 42 adult teeth by 7 months old, the teething process can be a lot longer. As puppies grow, their adult teeth “buds” start to form under their gum line. Their baby teeth begin to spread out and shift in their mouth. So the teeth are in a constant state of moving around and preparing to turn over several weeks before any teeth actually fall out. If I could imagine a comparison, it would probably be akin to having braces tightened, or worse, having spacers between your teeth (I’ve had both, and I can verify that it’s terrible).
So puppies start exploring the world with their mouths at a young age, and often seek relief for their aching or itching gums. Their front incisors begin to fall out first, followed by their canine teeth, and then finally their molars. Once all of the adult teeth have appeared, there is a light at the end of the teething tunnel! Some puppies do seem to retain mouthiness for longer than expected; it’s possible that even though they appear to be done teething, the teeth are still settling and finishing their eruption, even though they’ve all appeared. Or it could be that the puppy still has the chewing habit and takes comfort from mouthy behavior.
Teething sometimes goes hand in hand with other behaviors. Along with chewing, some puppies also bark, snap at the air, grab clothing, or dig. All of these behaviors are generally expressions of frustration and are tied to discomfort.
There are several techniques for dealing with teething puppies, and I don’t think that there is any one “right” answer. I have had many puppies come through my house, and I have experienced many different levels of intensity when it comes to teething. Some puppies chew lightly and for a relatively brief period of time, some puppies are sharky monsters, and other puppies are in between.
A good rule of thumb for any unwanted behavior is “correct and redirect”. But it is also worth remembering that preventing unfair situations can go a long way; we do want to set the dog up for success, so being prepared is the best treatment for problems.
As far as correcting mouthing on people, generally the mild to moderate teethers respond well to corrections. A verbal correction can be a stern, low “NO” or a high-pitched “OUCH”. When young puppies play together or with their mother, displeasure at being bitten too hard is expressed with a low growl or a high yelp, so this correction mimics what they are used to. You can also withdraw all attention as part of a correction; if you’re petting the puppy and they turn around and start mouthing, stop petting them and ignore them entirely. They can quickly learn that you’ll only continue play and attention if they keep their teeth to themselves. Another option is a physical correction; a physical correction would entail pushing down on the tongue with your thumb, firmly holding the lower jaw, or holding the muzzle with your hand.
Determined teethers (or “sharks”) will often be more aggravated by corrections. These puppies tend to start snapping, barking, and generally increasing in intensity. In that case, do not continue to use “around the mouth” corrections. When they start mouthing or biting your hand, say “OUCH” or “NO”, then immediately withdraw your attention and/or walk away. By removing the temptation of your delicious flesh or clothing, the puppy is free to focus their frustrations on a nearby toy. However, sometimes these determined puppies will bite your legs or feet if you stand up or try to walk away, or will grab the nearest piece of furniture. While I am not a proponent of using the crate or tie-down for punishment, there are times when they are appropriate “time out” spaces. If the puppy is mouthing and getting overly worked up, quietly deposit them into the crate or tie them down out of your reach, then ignore them for a few minutes. Do not scold them or make a big deal about it, and they don’t have to stay in “time out” for very long. Generally when I do this with a puppy, they’re in “time out” for about 5 minutes, unless they are extremely worked up. When they’re allowed to rejoin the party, I make sure I have a variety of prepared toys available as alternatives.
Let’s talk about toys for a minute, because they can really make a difference, for better or worse, with teething. I think it’s safe to say that raisers are really good at supplying the puppy with toys and understand that surviving teething involves, “Don’t chew on this, here’s a more appropriate chew toy instead.” However, puppies do have different tastes and preferences and teething can make them more sensitive. Sometimes a bit of creativity and experimentation is necessary.
With puppies I’ve had, they seem to be more likely to chew intensely immediately after eating (hard food) or chewing on hard toys. Part of the reason they often seek out skin, clothing, leashes, or papers may be because they are looking for something with a little more give. Many teething puppies also like cold items; this may explain why some puppies seek out metal bowls or glass coffee tables (then again, some puppies are just quirky).
The Kong toys we recommend come in several strengths. I tend to keep Kongs stuffed with peanut butter or canned puppy food in my freezer when I have a teething puppy. The “puppy strength” Kong (tie-dye blue or pink) is softer than the standard red Kongs. I generally only give this type of Kong with supervision, but it’s often a good way to occupy a frustrated, teething puppy. The other strengths of Kong are red (regular strength), black (strong), and royal blue (strongest, available from vets).
Besides the Kongs, Nylabones also come in several strengths. Again, the softer Nylabones require supervision, but they can be a nice option to have on hand when a puppy decides crazy hour has begun. They can also be chilled to help soothe puppy gums. Nylabones are available in a teething strength (shaped like keys, fish, and other odd items) and Gumabone strength (clear, flexible plastic).
Another option is a soft, squeaker-less toy. I’ve used old towels (tied up so they don’t resemble towels I actually care about), Chilly bones, canvas soft toys, or stuffing-less “skins”. They can be dipped into water and then frozen, or just given plain (again, with supervision). Take any toy away if the dog starts tearing or shredding the toy into pieces, but sometimes a softer toy can provide relief in a way that nothing else can quite match.
Remember to correct and redirect when your puppy chews on an inappropriate item. If they are on leash or tie-down, it is very easy to give a quick correction, and then show them the toy you would like them to chew on. If they are determined to keep chewing on the table leg (or fill in your own forbidden item), a time out can help drive the point home. Keep in mind that teething is a relatively short time period in the life of a dog, even though sometimes it feels like a lifetime. As the puppy matures, the “sharkiness” does subside. I’ve survived bouts of teething puppies using equal parts creativity, patience, and repetition/redirection. As always, if you find yourself stumped by a puppy’s behavior, please don’t hesitate to contact your AC or our Puppy Raising Department for guidance.
