There are two new training protocols going into place this month!
The first is a clarification on the often-used phrase "take a break". We currently use the term as a release from a command in obedience, as well as when giving the dog permission to access something, such as food. The manual presently states that "take a break" is not to be used when the puppy is in coat. However, further discussions have led us to discover some situations where the use of "take a break" while in coat might be beneficial.
When it comes to allowing a puppy (under 10 months old) to greet strangers for socialization purposes, it's extremely important to control jumping, but it is equally important to leave the puppy with a positive association with strangers. One way to set the puppy up for a successful greeting is by allowing the puppy to close the distance between themselves and the stranger they are looking to greet.
Have the puppy sit while the stranger approaches, but have the stranger stop a few feet away. Tell the puppy to "take a break", and allow the puppy to approach the stranger for attention. This often helps cut down on some of the anticipation that can lead to jumping. If the puppy cannot keep all 4 feet on the ground, give them a leash correction, move them away from the friendly stranger, and try an approach again. The puppy will then learn that the interaction will only continue if they are on their best manners.
The first is a clarification on the often-used phrase "take a break". We currently use the term as a release from a command in obedience, as well as when giving the dog permission to access something, such as food. The manual presently states that "take a break" is not to be used when the puppy is in coat. However, further discussions have led us to discover some situations where the use of "take a break" while in coat might be beneficial.
When it comes to allowing a puppy (under 10 months old) to greet strangers for socialization purposes, it's extremely important to control jumping, but it is equally important to leave the puppy with a positive association with strangers. One way to set the puppy up for a successful greeting is by allowing the puppy to close the distance between themselves and the stranger they are looking to greet.
Have the puppy sit while the stranger approaches, but have the stranger stop a few feet away. Tell the puppy to "take a break", and allow the puppy to approach the stranger for attention. This often helps cut down on some of the anticipation that can lead to jumping. If the puppy cannot keep all 4 feet on the ground, give them a leash correction, move them away from the friendly stranger, and try an approach again. The puppy will then learn that the interaction will only continue if they are on their best manners.
Bentley sits and waits for permission
Here I am going to reference Karen Mersereau's wonderful "Box of Acceptable Behaviors", also known as the BOAB. For a young puppy, the BOAB might be fairly large and simply be limited to "keep all 4 paws on the floor". As they learn and grow, your expectations will change and you'll want to have the puppy in a controlled sit for petting. But the controlled sit is a behavior that can be worked up to. If your puppy is sitting nicely for petting but looks like he is about to burst, telling him to "take a break" and allowing him to move into the greeting can give him a greater chance of success.
Bentley is allowed to visit without jumping
The other nice thing about using "take a break" for greetings is that it helps clarify to the dog that the greeting is with your permission. After 10 months of age, you are no longer allowing your puppy to greet strangers in coat, so they no longer are receiving that verbal permission slip.
Finally, you can use "take a break" in coat if you are working on obedience in a public place where your dog must be in coat. For example, if you're working on some tough distracted stays in a hardware store, it is beneficial to allow your dog to "take a break" and de-stress. Even during out-of-coat releases, you don't want to allow your puppy to scavenge, jump, mouth, or get completely out of control, and the same would apply with "take a break" in-coat. It's just giving your dog a mental break and a chance to relax.
We are putting an age restriction of 10 months old on the use of "take a break" when in coat. For one, that is the age when in-coat-greetings cease. It is also an age when it's reasonable to expect that your dog should be working the entire time they are in a store, and they can wait to "take a break" until they are outside and out of coat.
The other protocol adjustment I want to address is allowing your puppy to greet other dogs on leash.
When allowing the puppy to greet other dogs, the situation should remain under handler control. It is important that the puppy still be attentive to the handler even when engaged with visiting another dog. If the dogs are allowed to greet on lead, the puppy should be out of coat. The puppy should "earn" the greeting by responding to a command first; for example, the puppy should walk a few steps on a loose lead and sit before being allowed to "take a break" and say hello. If the puppy is too excitable and is not willing to respond to commands, then it's important not to allow the puppy to greet the other dog. Instead, use the other dog as a distraction and work on recovering focus back on to you.
Finally, you can use "take a break" in coat if you are working on obedience in a public place where your dog must be in coat. For example, if you're working on some tough distracted stays in a hardware store, it is beneficial to allow your dog to "take a break" and de-stress. Even during out-of-coat releases, you don't want to allow your puppy to scavenge, jump, mouth, or get completely out of control, and the same would apply with "take a break" in-coat. It's just giving your dog a mental break and a chance to relax.
We are putting an age restriction of 10 months old on the use of "take a break" when in coat. For one, that is the age when in-coat-greetings cease. It is also an age when it's reasonable to expect that your dog should be working the entire time they are in a store, and they can wait to "take a break" until they are outside and out of coat.
The other protocol adjustment I want to address is allowing your puppy to greet other dogs on leash.
When allowing the puppy to greet other dogs, the situation should remain under handler control. It is important that the puppy still be attentive to the handler even when engaged with visiting another dog. If the dogs are allowed to greet on lead, the puppy should be out of coat. The puppy should "earn" the greeting by responding to a command first; for example, the puppy should walk a few steps on a loose lead and sit before being allowed to "take a break" and say hello. If the puppy is too excitable and is not willing to respond to commands, then it's important not to allow the puppy to greet the other dog. Instead, use the other dog as a distraction and work on recovering focus back on to you.
Bentley shows control around the leashed dog
If the puppy does manage to show some control and is allowed to greet on leash (out of coat), the greeting should be brief, and then both handlers should call their dogs away from the interaction. It's important that greetings stay brief and positive; if they go on too long, leashes could get entangled, tension could build between dogs, and the puppy could develop a negative association. Puppies going through puberty tend to build tension faster, so interrupting the greeting while it is still friendly is beneficial.
Bentley makes a friend
After a quick hello, the interaction is broken with a recall
If one of the dogs begins to posture, it is time to cut the interaction short. We are not putting an age restriction on these kinds of greetings because they do often occur in adulthood; for example, if a graduate wants to introduce his new dog to his previous dog, he might well introduce them on-leash on neutral territory. So it is beneficial for the puppy to be able to greet appropriately. However, do not allow your puppy to visit with another dog if either your pup or the other dog has a tense appearance. That includes holding the head and tail high, hackles raised, and a stiff, still body; this also includes growling or barking.
If the puppy is playing off-lead in an enclosed area with another dog, it is also beneficial to interrupt that interaction occasionally. Never call the dog to "come" in this highly distracting scenario because it is likely that the puppy will not want to follow through. Instead, have the handlers collect their dogs, leash them, and do some brief obedience or just allow the dogs to settle. Once they've calmed down, they can earn the chance to play together again. This helps enforce that the handlers are still in control, keeps the dogs from escalating into aggression, and gets the dogs used to being interrupted during high-energy interactions.
If the puppy is playing off-lead in an enclosed area with another dog, it is also beneficial to interrupt that interaction occasionally. Never call the dog to "come" in this highly distracting scenario because it is likely that the puppy will not want to follow through. Instead, have the handlers collect their dogs, leash them, and do some brief obedience or just allow the dogs to settle. Once they've calmed down, they can earn the chance to play together again. This helps enforce that the handlers are still in control, keeps the dogs from escalating into aggression, and gets the dogs used to being interrupted during high-energy interactions.
