I got lazy and I got tired so here are days four and five rolled in one big posting. :) I'll post day six tomorrow after I get to Busan.
Day Four
As with most days in Korea so far, it was cloudy and wet, and good weather to sleep in. I finally dragged myself out of bed and decided to go visit Seongsan Ilchubong, a mini volcano crater that's located on the eastern side of Jeju Island.
I got some really good directions (this really well organised guesthouse has a sequence of photos they took of landmarks) on how to get to the intercity bus station and set off. When I reached the bus stop, it was time to....eat! I need my energy for the climb. Nothing special, there was a shop there and it had pictures of noodles with slices of beef and vegetables. Something must have gotten lost in translation, because all I got was what you would normally get from the Korean instant noodles plus an egg.
Anyways, that was good enough for lunch and just as I paid for my instant noodles, the bus pulled up. Talk about good timing!
Only photo worth taking at this restaurant - novel idea to not scratch your wooden floor. Looks ugly though.
Local bus to the east side of the island. Took 1.5 hours!
After what seemed an eternity, we finally arrived at the entrance to Seongsan Ilchubong, right about the same time that seven Chinese tour buses arrived. Bugger... I went to stock up on some snacks in case I got hungry and then prepared to go up to the top. But first, I saw a sign for a 'performance' by the famous pearl diving ladies so a slight detour downwards to the volcano sand beach. I saw five ladies, all probably about the age of my grandmother except one younger lady. They did a ritualistic song thing and then set out looking for things underwater. One of them was clearly not liking the Chinese tourists who were grabbing her by the arm to take photos. I guess if you had to do this everyday, you'd get grumpy too.
Seongsan Ilchubong from the bus stop
Cool patterns from the volcano created layers of rock on the beach
Traditional pearl diving lady preparing to go out. They can hold their breaths for two minutes or more!
I decided to start climbing to the top of the volcano crater to grab the views from up there. Tell you what, it isn't easy when the trail is small and when you have seven bus loads of tourists who take two steps the stop to take a snap. Sometimes I wonder if they're there to enjoy the scenery, the climb, etc. or just spend all their time taking photos?? One thing I did notice, and I couldn't get a photo, was that most of the women in these Chinese tour groups, they like to dress up with makeup, etc. including high heels! I saw a lady wearing 2.5 inch at least. No kidding! They'll risk their lives just to look good while climbing a narrow trail with lots of people in the rain and strong wind?? Oh yeah I forgot to mention, the weather was miserable at best with heavy rain which then created a new hazard, people with umbrellas! BUT...I did get to the top and the view was good even in the bad weather.

Completely drenched from rain and sweat but happy. That's the town I got off the bus at the bottom there.
My photo can't do justice to this place. In case you're wondering, this is an aerial view of Seongsan Ilchubong, courtesy of the Visit Korea tourist
website:
I couldn't take this photo from my vantage point but it looks good from the air huh? Our climbing path is on the left side of the crater.
After enjoying the scenery and descending, I caught the bus back. After what seemed like an eternity again, I finally got back to Seogwipo and back to the guest house to change out of my wet clothes. Hunger called so I went back out one of the food streets that I saw on my way back.
Jeju is famed for its seafood as well as pork. I found a restaurant that had a picture of a very nice looking pig and next to that picture, a picture of a succulent piece of pork. That made up my mind and I went it and order Korean BBQ. I never knew you could taste the difference, but the pork that I ordered, without marinade or any seasoning, was delicious! And being the greedy person that I am, I decided to order a marinated portion of pork as well! The lady initially used hand signals to tell me that BBQ is only for two people or more and then relented and served just me so I had to repay her faith and ordered a meal for two people. She even got her assistant to do all the cooking for me. :) Burp! End of Day Four.
BBQ thick bacon slices of pork and the usual array of side dishes. What you do is cut up the pork, put it in the leaf thingy on the right, add some kimchi radish, some garlic, some chilli sauce, wrap up the leaf and then wrap it up in a lettuce leave and eat. Yummmy!
The marinated one. Tender and delicious too!
Day Five
There was only one thing on my activity list for this day and it was enough to occupy the whole day - climbing Mt Halla, which at 1,950m, is the highest mountain in South Korea. I dragged myself out of bed at 7.30am because it's good to start early and then started having second thoughts because I'm lazy but when I stared out the window, it was all bright and sunshine. No rain! That's a sign for me to get my lazy arse going!
So I packed my essential things and armed with a jacket, snacks and three litres (yes three litres!) of water, I headed out to the intercity bus terminal again to catch the bus to the entrance of one of the hiking trails up Mt Halla. It's called Seongpanak and this is suppose to be the easiest trail to go up. It's easy because of the gradient of the climb but this also means the trail is stretched out very far. 9.6km to be exact. Now that's quite a long walk in most cases horizontally but when you have to climb 1km+ vertically at the same time, it gets harder. It took me about 4.5 hours to reach the top at 1.30pm. I'm not as fit as I used to be and struggled a little. All these grandpas and grandmas were overtaking me too!
Objective for today. Climb Mt Halla! This is the volcano that created Jeju Island.
He probably took one look at me and thought it was worthwhile following...this was about 50m to the top and I was quite tired at this point
Glory photo. :) I have no idea what the sign says. Probably "You're not at the top yet!" The crater which you can see in the background has a lake. Cool huh?
While up there I saw an SK Telecom tower so I decided to dial in to my team's bi-weekly conference call at work. The guys were wondering where I was so I told them. Heh heh. It was about this time that I stepped on the one wooden plank on the platform that was loose and fell, twisting my ankle slightly and putting about 20 splinters or so into the palm of my right hand. I felt both pride and physical hurt. How can I get myself all the way to the top on sometimes treacherous terrain and then fall on a flat wooden platform?? I tried to tell the ranger but the language barrier stood in the way. He just nodded and then was on his way. Anyway, I managed to get the big splinters out there and then but couldn't do anything about the rest.
At 2.30pm, the ranger started chasing people off the platform. It was the designated cut-off time for people to start descending so I started to descend on the other trail (Gwaneumsa) that was recommended by the guesthouse host. Bad idea. Whilst it's also very gradual, and very long (8.7km), this trail was full of uneven rocks and about halfway down, it started taking a heavy toll on my knees. Ouch! You guys know I'm not exactly the lightest guy in the world! I managed to struggle to the bottom 3.5 hours later, with no more water left and little energy. I had drunk all 3 litres and only went to the toilet once. This means I sweated all the rest out! You can't imagine the joy on my face for seeing a vending machine. I dug my coins out and the Pokari Sweat (yes it's spelled Sweat) was heaven sent. AND after gulping down the entire can in one go, I saw behind the vending machine, about 200m away, a 7-11 shop. Hallelujah! Three giant bottles of Pokari Sweat later, I sat content on the sidewalk.

Magnificent view on the descend
Wonder what these are? They look super cool. I wonder if Dave can take inspiration from this in his architecture designs? It looks like the gherkin in London.
After resting for a few minutes, I had to negotiate with the taxi driver to take me to the bus stop on the highway. This trail doesn't have a bus service. He took me to the bus stop, I dragged myself onto the bus, flopped on the last seat and slept for the trip back to Seogwipo.
It's been a day of an 18.3km trek up and down, in wet weather (it rained for a short while just as I reached the summit), with a slightly twisted ankle, a hand full of splinters, etc., all this while not being physically prepared, so a reward of some sort was in order. I was thinking beer but I could barely walk so I would push that to the next night. Instead I stopped at the first restaurant I saw next to the bus stop. I had no idea what this dish is called but it wasn't too bad. Just not spicy enough!
Mystery dish - it had noodles, fish cakes, rice cakes and other stuff. Despite the colour, it wasn't spicy at all!
By this point I was freezing too so I ordered one of Esther's favourite Korean dishes - Kimchi Jigae. I didn't take a photo!
Well, that's it for this posting. Will post about my follow up at the doctors for my hand (preview: local anaesthetic, surgeon's knife and no English...)
Eug.