Tarma Iraqi Street Food, Bukit Bintang

Tarma brings a twist to the typical Middle Eastern restaurant in KL, serving street fare specific to the less-visited nation of Iraq, offered in a colourful setting that might look more Bohemian than Baghdad, complete with contemporary hipster emblems.

Most Malaysians will have never set foot in Iraq, so while assessing the authenticity of Tarma's menu is awkward, the restaurant's crew assures us that its founders are indeed Iraqi. 

Start with a sandwich, prepared with slightly chewy samoon bread, similar to pita (or lafa, as it's known in Iraq), baked in Tarma's own brick oven, wrapped around a stuffing of chickpea falafels, rounded out with fries and an amba pickled mango sauce - an interesting meal that's well worth the RM10.

Pizza-like manakeesh is also available, freshly baked too, with toppings like ground lamb, herbs and spices (RM16). If you prefer a sweet treat, try the datlee deep-fried donuts with syrup (RM10), washed down with a shinena yogurt beverage (RM7) and cardamom-laced Iraqi chai (RM10).

Tarma Iraqi Street Food

83, Jalan Berangan, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 12pm-11pm. Tel: 03-2110-4747

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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Halab @ Bukit Bintang

Middle Eastern flavours take centre stage at Halab, with a slight emphasis on Syrian specialities.

For an acquired-taste adventure, order the Damascus favourite of shakriya, a full-fat yogurt stew with tender pieces of lamb - slurp it up like a broth and shower it over firm, fragrant rice (RM23++). It may seem a little strange at first (imagine having hot, tangy yogurt with savoury meat), but it works well for a hearty, no-fuss meal.

Dairy devotees can have a field day here - it certainly helps to not be lactose intolerant if you want to try the ackawi white cheese (RM10), a creamy cheese that's very salty (even more sodium-packed than the cured black olives it comes with), and the ayran yogurt-based cold beverage (RM6).

Prices are pretty reasonable - you can order a fresh and well-spiced beef kebab wrap, rolled with tahini sauce, tomatoes and onions for RM10++, and it's easily enough for lunch. Bonus points too for Halab's bright, spacious setting.

Halab Restaurant
35 Jalan Berangan, Kuala Lumpur.

The Ghan @ Ampang

Bringing the culinary heritage of Kabul to KL, The Ghan is billed as Malaysia's first full-fledged Afghan restaurant, helmed mainly by a team of Afghans who've come to Malaysia in recent years.

Start with the Kabuli Palaw (RM21), considered Afghanistan's national dish, comprising a very hearty pilaf of firm, flavoursome rice with tender marinated lamb, sweet raisins and fresh carrots. A should-have for anyone who adores rice-with-spice recipes.

Even for the overwhelming majority of us who've never traveled to Afghanistan, there's a feeling of authenticity to The Ghan's fare. 

Adventurous patrons seeking something different can check out the Kala Pacha (RM30; a rich, savoury broth of sheep head and leg parts - this is an acquired taste) and the Dopiaza (RM25; chunks of lamb shoulder with onions and coriander). 

For a safer choice that even squeamish customers won't mind, order the vegetarian-friendly Ashak, regarded as the Afghan ravioli, comprising scallion dumplings with the tang of a yogurt-based sauce (RM18). 

All in all, the flavours and textures here evoke the nurturing, nourishing sense of home cooking.

You'll also find a few temptations from Afghanistan's neighbour, Iran. Try the Qormeh Sabzi, a popular Iranian herb stew (RM13), and Mirza Ghasemi, a creamy smoked eggplant dip with egg (RM15) - soft, minimal-chewing-needed comfort food.

The Ghan

B14, Jalan Ampang Utama 2/2, Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Open Mon-Thurs, 9am-11pm; Fri-Sun, 9am-1am. Tel: 03-4265-7467

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Shawarma King @ Telawi, Bangsar

Beginning its reign in Bangsar this month, Shawarma King boasts a crown jewel of a shawarma wrap that's royally stuffed with tenderly grilled lamb and chicken, crisp vegetables and no fewer than five sauces, conveying nuances of garlic, onions, mint and more. A princely portion that costs RM19.20 is capable of feeding two persons.

Other relatively more basic shawarma wraps are also available (a straightforward chicken version starts at RM13.70), with accompaniments like hummus, fattoush, baba ghanoush and tabbouleh. Service is genuinely warm and welcoming at this casual space, spearheaded by a team that includes a Syrian-born, Saudi-raised co-founder and a Syrian chef. Long live this King.

Shawarma King

8, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Currently open daily, 6pm-3am. Will commence lunch service in mid-January.

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Sama Sama Samosas

Samosas may seem simple, but these popular snacks have a rich culinary heritage that can be traced back to before the tenth century, originating in the Middle East before being introduced by traders to India and beyond.

We recently sampled Sama Sama Samosas, a Malaysian brand founded by Aishah Hanif, relying on a family recipe by her Yemeni mother-in-law. Sama Sama calls these authentic Arabian samosas, blending the influences of both Yemen and Saudi Arabia, infusing the filling of minced beef or chicken with a special mix of spices and seasonings that taste pretty distinctive - lingeringly savoury, with a mildly fiery sharpness, altogether absolutely delicious.

We found these fresh samosas easy and fuss-free to fry, resulting in a golden exterior that's gorgeously crunchy, with an impeccable proportion of skin and stuffing, with hints of onions, garlic and long beans for nuanced flavours. Certainly some of the tastiest samosas we've tried, especially if you love crispy indulgences.

Sama Sama Samosas can be reached on facebook.com/SamaSamaSamosa or 017-3096067 - the samosas cost RM25 for 20 pieces at a full weight of about 600 grams, easily sufficient for six to seven people for a snack.

Many thanks to Sama Sama Samosas for this treat.

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