MAD MEN FASHION SPRING 1963

One-Buttons Check In

Top: Petrocelli black and white fine check worsted suit.
Above: Grey-worsted check by Ambassador

The Tab-Cuff Shirt by Prince Ferrari
Tie by X'Andrini
Onyx and silver bamboo links by Grand Prix

Sport Jackets:
The Contemporary Approach

Red and Black Silk Hound's-tooth-check
Red silk-lined by Delton

Highlight On Pattern

Top: Hanover Hall two-buton, natural shoulder check
Above: Black and White Glen Plaid by Chester Barrie

New-Mode Sport Jackets

Top: Angled and double-piped brown suede framed pockets, suede elbow patches on tobacco brown wool flannel by Leon of Paris.
Below: Concealed slash pockets on black and white checked worsted by Andrew Pallack

David M. Ogilvy
Chairman of the Board
Ogilvy, Benson and Mather


Photography: Chadwick Hall

The Gillie Shoe - whose history goes back at least to nineteenth-century Scotland, and popularized in the twenties by The Duke of Windsor, now reappears. 
Johnston and Murphy
Nunn-Bush

Top: Moccasin design with large perforations on a square tongue slip-on by Stetson.
Left: Simulated bricks cut out decoratively on a black slip-on by Fuchs Bros.
Center: Tunneled tie-straps on a black-brown-shaded slip-on by Crosbly Square.

Country Strollers

Top: Winthrop punched front slip-on
Center: Cork-finish moccasin-front slip-on with twist-effect strap by Nettleton Shoes, NY.
Below: Leather blunt-toe embellished-strap slip-on by British Walkers.

Photography: Leonard Nones

Spring Alliance:
Brown and Blue

Above: Hickey-Freeman
Top: Stanley Blacker

A Cut Above The Usual at The Flick New York City

Top: Shawl collar three-button in dark green bird's-eye worsted by Eagle.
Below: Notched peak lapels and high two-button front by Tarra Hall

On Lighter Grounds

Jackets with sprightly patterns and light-colored grounds  - Top by Louis Roth. Above: Hart Schaffner and Marx.

Top: Monte Cristo

Above: Exclusive by Fenton Hall for Mike Howard's Leading Man, Hollywoood.

The Two-Button Front Advances

Top: Phoenix black and grey Glenn Plaid worsted two-button suit.
Above: Cardinal blue on blue-grey striped mohair.

Black and white bird's-eye worsted by Blankson.

Beige mohair two-button suit by Sussex.

Photographs by Chadwick Hall at the Sign of The Dove, Manhattan



GQ 
Gentlemen's Quarterly March 1963
Photography:
Chadwick Hall
Leonard Nones

... eyes on the sixties at devodotcom

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

something new to tame the biting cold

wool and alpaca blend by John Alexander

...the snakes are in yellow and black

Harlan Krakovitz

Harlan Krakovitz

Marbury Brown

Gentlemen's Quarterly always inspires. Above, filled with movement, expression, and a defining cool, the wonderful illustrations of Harlan Krakovitz and Marbury Brown jump off the page like fine works of art. A sure thing for writer's block 

To Shod a Sheik

Paris - February 1975  "When the oil-rich Sheik of Qatar, in the Persian Gulf, installed himself in the Hotel George V in Paris, he brought along his wives - 10 of them.

The ladies it seems, wanted to buy shoes - good shoes costing around $125 a pair. But they couldn't try them on because they are not allowed to show their feet to strangers. So each wife sent her personal servant to the French capital's finest shoe shop.

First the good news: Each servant bought 34 pairs for each wife. Total cost around $42,000. Now for the bad news: None fitted properly. Back to the good news: the Sheik paid up cheerfully, the wives threw the shoes out, and the chambermaids in the George V are currently the best shod in Paris."

Sarasota Journal - February 12, 1975

Ladies First by Trixie Belmont

Would this group of photographs featuring burka-clad women promoting men's western fashions ever make it past an editor's desk today? 

Gentlemen's Quarterly October 1963

Tangier! backdrop to fall sportswear

Photography: Chadwick Hall

... eyes on the sixties at devodotcom

SALVADOR DALI 1963

DALI
Gentlemen's Quarterly October 1963
Photography: Chadwick Hall
Illustration: Lou LoMonaco

Louis LoMonaco is an American painter and commercial artist.  He is a graduate of Yale University Art School and Cooper Union, New York City.  His illustrated works appear in many gentlemen's Quarterly magazines from the sixties. 

 LoMonaco's collage is featured on  the official program for the civil rights "March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom," of August 1963.

He was married to soprano Shirley Verrett, now deceased. 

Daliesque at devodotcom

TANGIER MOROCCO 1963

The Eyes Have It...

Gentlemen's Quarterly brings fall sportswear to Tangier

The intrigue of a wool pullover glimpsed here through a series of Moorish casements. The body, silver grey with fashion interest at top and bottom: a yellow stripe that tunnels through tabs at the rounded yoke and a button-tabbed band that circles the waist. Cool

bombay bicycle club

The road to Morocco was strewn with sweaters after GQ descended upon Tangier, fabled city of the North African coast

Colorful Bands in Tangier

Back at the palace: a ceremonial band serenades a sweater which puts stripes to the fore - colorful verticals on black cashmere in a textured loop stitch by Hadley.

Hidden in the Tangier Casbah, GQ'S version of  Pepe le Moko sartorially updated in a Gino Paoli shirt-jacket of black-brown wool fronted by tan and taupe knitted panels. 

Bold is the man in this boldly knitted coat-sweater with a vigorous check-and-stripe effect  fit for a sultan. A Byford design in olive and white wool with raglan sleeves and a  leather button placket front.

Mohairs among the Moors

A lofty mohair pullover nimbly plaided in red and charcoal on a white ground by Brioni for Cezar Ltd.

Sporting elegance in black and grey boucle mohair edged in black knit wool. Detailed with an Alpine chest emblem and silver metal buttons. Designed by Alps.

Boisterously tweeded - ruggedly knitted, the heavier, warmer sweater. His-and-her model V-neck pullovers by Jockey.The women in traditional Galabias.

Red and brown Scandinavian-design Orlon zip-front cardigan. Brown front panel, rib-knit collar and cuffs. By Robert Bruce.

Clouds Over The Casbah

All-weather coats concentrate on pattern, fur-type collars, double-breasted styling - with imports supplying fancier trims and pocket detail.  

Above, neatly checked black and white double-breasted Dacron and cotton coat. Alpaca lined with removable Timme Tufts alpaca collar.  By Gleneagles.

Foreign-born raincoat in off-white cotton with leather-edged slash pockets and peak lapels. Shorter length with pointed front shoulder yoke and curved back yoke, full belt and red wool liner from Europe Craft, West Germany

Light grey cotton lined in blue corduroy from Brioni for Cezar Ltd.

Double-breasted pile-lined tan cotton coat with angle-flapped and buttoned pockets from Cortefiel de Espana.

A cotton coat from Spain invades Xauen, Morocco's oldest Moorish settlement. Coat by Costa de Majorca.

Grey wool herringbone raglan-shouldered jacket from Maimon

Raglan-shouldered spirited houndstooth jacket by Tarra Hall.

Irresistible Plaids

Plaid of bottle-green conjoined with turquoise. A two-smoked pearl buttoned all-wool model with angled flap pockets and side vents. Slight shoulder buildup and waist suppression from Louis Roth.
Sharp

A magnified glen plaid of black and white over-checked with bright red on a shetland wool jacket. Natural shoulders with straight-hanging lines, straight flap pockets and a center vent. M. Sigel.

The New And The Bold

Sport jackets enlist the camaraderie of novel styles and color combinations. 

Above, in the pastel-washed Casbah, this season's sleeper color  of deep rich burgundy given a windowpane check in grey. Three-button wool hopsack jacket with modified shoulders, notched lapels and side vents. By DuMont.

Camel and black houndstooth check wool sport jacket with a bal-shaped notch collar, angled flap pockets, leather buttons, all-around leather piping and a removable belt. By Clinton Swan.

Gentlemen's Quarterly October 1963

Tangier! Backdrop to Fall Sportswear

Photography: Chadwick Hall

devodotcom