Bridal Challenge - The Dress and Veil

 

Wow, this was challenging!  There were several iterations for the bodice, first in paper, then muslin, and then muslin again.  I should have made a fourth, but I was too lazy.  After the third, I marked a place to make an adjustment on the pattern and then went with it.  According to Mr. Burbidge’s article in Doll Reader, his reproduction dress was of bridal satin of silk/rayon in antique ivory.  The bodice had two layers of lining, one of organdy and one of cotton gauze. 

 

For my doll, I had selected silk/satin or charmeuse.  Charmeuse is not a particularly easy fabric with which to work.  I also selected beaded and sequined netting as I did not really want to do all the beading and embroidery of the original dress or the reproduction dress. Once I had all the pattern pieces for the bodice and skirt drafted and ready to cut, I started second-guessing all my decisions.  Yes, ALL of them!  I was afraid the silk for the slip would tear, I was afraid I couldn’t do the sewing on the charmeuse as it is a tricky fabric, and I didn’t know if the beaded net would be too much and look all wrong.  I was at a dead stop.  

Two weeks had passed since I wrote the above paragraph. Here is where I am, I used the charmeuse, yes, I did.  I would not suggest it unless one has superior sewing skills.  I am not that person, but I had to soldier on.  I went back to the article to see what Mr. Burgess used and decided to ADD the extra layer of cotton for the bodice.  I thought the scale of it would not work, but even in a smaller doll, this is a good idea, using Swiss Batiste, Silk organdy, and silk charmeuse.  The pieces were basted together and treated each as one section of the bodice then sewn together on the machine. 

 

I made the skirt in three pieces as well only joining them at the end at the waistline. 

 

The veil is lace with attached silk netting.  It, too, will be, or maybe embellished with beads, sequins, and crystals.

Today, as of this writing.  I have not yet completed this dress.  It has lain packed away for a few years. The truth is that Mr. Burbidge has died but was able to send him pictures of the dress this far.   I have lost all verve for this project.  However, the train is completed as a separate piece, if I pick it up again, will be attached via hooks and loops at the center back.  And then all that is left is beading, sequins, crystals, and whatever else I want to make it fussier and a real wedding dress. 

 

Remember my doll is a doll of the period of the late 1800s, so it is out of context in this 20^th century dress.  But the project was fun, and I was thrilled to be able to work with my sewing idol.  He was one of the highlights of my sewing career. 

 

A special note.  I may be off the blog for a few weeks as I complete two projects, impossibly with the same deadline. I appreciate your patience.  Hope and joy to all.  Happy Thanksgiving to you, too. 

1/12th Scale Patterns for Static Display

Good Morning!  The entry today is to discuss a static display in your room box or vignette.  Oftentimes, the patterns and dresses that fit dolls are not suitable for fro room displays.  They do not always hang well on a hanger, though some do, nor do they manipulate well for laying across a bed or scrunched into a chair. 

The 2000 category of La Petite Belle Patterns is made just for this purpose.  The design of the garments is there without all the girth of the dress to fit a doll.  These patterns for you today do NOT fit onto a doll.  But if you wanted them too, you would have to do some extra fabric cut on the sides to make them work.  If you like the pattern for a project, do give it a try, you never know what you will achieve. 

Before I moved, I wrote a bit for AIM magazine.  It is a FREE e-zine completed by the Artisans that are shown in the periodical.  This is their blog address, and it is a great resource.  http://www.artisansinminiature.com/  Do visit the archives.  The magazines are through SCRIBD, which is also a Free to join enterprise for publishing books and periodicals.  This link will take you to the most recent issue, but there is plenty to see there.  https://www.scribd.com/document/423776008/AIM-IMag-Issue-71

I did a monthly for a jet setting woman of the 1950s and completed 12 articles for them.  Today I am providing you three of those patterns.  They are large PDF’s and printing is laden with color, so if you want to save them it is fine, be warned about printing them.

Today I have included some undergarments, always pretty to display.  I understand one of the products I used, Fairy Lace, has been discontinued, but I have some suggestions for if you would like to make this set.  If you cannot get the Fairy Lace, you can use any 2mm ribbon, or even cut the header off of heirloom lace and use it.  Thin pieces of fabric and even braided thread will work as well.  For Fairly Lace, please visit:

http://www.dragonflyintl.com/shop/contents/en-us/d56.html

The links for the patterns are under the picture, they are clickable. 

The dress and hat are meant to go together, pick some fun and contrasting fabrics to make a perfect ensemble.  The fabrics in the 1950s were colorful and fun.  Also, can be made in a sheer fabric a la Grace Kelly. 

Courtesy- https://www.theweddingsecret.co.uk/magazine/iconic-wedding-dresses-in-film-high-society/

I hope you use these patterns and have great fun with the fabric interpretations.   

 

https://www.minidolls.com/images/03SewRetroMarch.pdf

https://www.minidolls.com/images/04SewRetroDress.pdf

https://www.minidolls.com/images/PurpleHat.pdf

Have Fun!

Kathi

Tiny Kitty Returns!

As promised I am back again working on Tiny Kitty and her new cotton dress.  Thought I would share the inspiration dress with you so here it is. 

1910

While figuring out the pattern, I had been diligently looking for my blue striped fabric. THE perfect fabric you know you have but for some reason you are unable to locate it?  Yesterday I finally found and sadly, there is not enough to create the dress.  And if there was, there is certainly insufficient fabric for mistakes.  Curses!!!  (Because you know I will make a mistake.) 

Blue solid and striped fabrics

Since my Tiny Kitty has these blue ribbons as accents on her slip, I wanted to keep everything for this figure in blue, but it is not to be.  Serendipity, however, is still alive and kicking in my favor.  I have a found another wonderful fabric in my stash. The fabric is a pretty pink, white and blue striped oxford shirt fabric.  It is nice and soft, but still has the sizing that oxford cloth sometimes has.  I am hoping that will work in my favor. The solid pink fabric is handkerchief linen, very soft.    White Swiss batiste has been selected for the lining or base garment. 

Pink solid and striped fabrics

I have been working on the pattern and stitched it together.  Though it appears to work, I think there is something wrong with it.   I am not sure what it is, but I am thinking I have a small error.  I am sure I will figure it out as I go.  (At least there is a lot of fabric here…just in case!)  And I have no idea at this writing how I am going to recreate the closures.  It also appears I need to create a chemisette for this dress so she will have the pretty eyelet collar.  I purchased some new eyelet form Urban Gardens Fabrics and I think it will be perfect.  If not, well, I’ll surprise you with something.  Or will try. 

Okay, need to get busy making.  Will update you with the progress.  Until then,

drafted pattern pieces

Have Fun! 

Kathi

Second Fitting

Hi, all,

      Just a quick note to let you know that alterations were made to Tiny Kitty’s undergarments.  I have made a small digital layout for you to know the changes I made. (Elements are from Scrapgirls, LLC)  The new pictures will show the better fit for her slip and explain the changes I made.  She is so much happier with her garments. 

      I will be away for a couple weeks before continuing to work on Miss Kitty’s Edwardian clothes.  Until I return, I will be taking a class, and taking a small vacation to visit friends.  While I am busy with these things, I will also be working on the pattern for the inspiration dress.  I keep reinterpreting the assembly process.  I do want to try for a new pair of shoes, too!  It will be a challenge. 

Until, then, have a wonderful Labor Day Holiday!

Kathi 

A new Slip for Kitty Collier

It never pays to rush things.  I got a late start on tiny Kitty’s slip this week.  Sunday was my first opportunity to continue her undergarments.  I am afraid it shows.  A couple of errors in the hurrying up for the blog, and then I realized I do not really need to hurry, do I? 

I totally forgot about the adjustment to make in the hip area of the corset, which made my slip just a tiny bit, maybe one seam allowance, tight.  I hate ripping seams after so much work.  At the last minute I decided to sew up the back seam, (I was going to leave it open, but who wants to sit on buttons?) The corset strings create a bit of a bump as well.  I can fix it.    

My original intention was to have a princess styled silhouette, but the more information I had it became apparent a narrower shape would be required.  I narrowed the panels, added lace, and cut off the excess slip fabric from the bodice and the hem.  I added lace straps instead. 

The pictures below show the working out of the pattern and the changing the silhouette. 

Kathi 

I chose this picture as an inspiration. 

Pattern made and sample slip tested.  Ready to cut out and sew. 

Advice for succession sewing.  Lay out the pieces in the order for which they are assembled, pick one up and sew, then to the next, and on and on.  I leave the center back open.

First fitting with primary seam completed for French seaming.  The original intentions was to leave the back open and close the length.  

When adding laces, interview the laces you have.  Do scallops go with geometric designs?  Does one lace and width llook well with another?   

As you can see here, I did not use any of the others and opted to add a simple edging with a beading lace accent.  In other words I kept it simple more or less with my inspiration.  

Here are the laces sewn on, and the slip portions cut away from the laces.  

Completed Slip Front

Completed Slip Back

 (I wonder if I should take this next week to fix the slip and show you the repaired items, re-lace the corset, etc.  At least, the very least, Kitty is more covered and she is becoming more comfortable with the camera. )

Tiny Kitty Collier

I just got home from the UFDC Convention in Washington, DC, and boy did we have fun!!  Oh, wait, that was TWO YEARS ago!  Are you kidding me?  Two years!  Well, as life has it, yes, and I have needed all these two years to recover from it.  Why you ask, well, that was quite a year, I had a birthday, I do every year, would that it would slow down for just a moment and let me catch my breath!  We downsized 2000 square feet into the home I have now.  I have been recovering from that, too.  My gorgeous 15’ by 30’ workroom with closets and built in shelving and SPACE must condense to the third bedroom of the new house, a 12’ by 12’ room.  Picture my distress.  I digress.  That story is another day, and I have pictures! 

(And yes, I complain about it in every post, or so it seems.  Will things ever be working for me?) 

I had a wonderful convention, I usually do, and arrived home revved up to make pretty doll clothes.  The sweet convention souvenir doll of Tiny Kitty Collier (which I adore!) in her embroidered Mrs. Taft Inaugural dress made me think she would be a good size to make some additional wardrobe of the period. (Think titanic, for fashion period, not the sadness, and the early Downton Abbey for inspiration.)  As the little ladies scream for clothes constantly, I keep them packed away.  ALL OF THEM, and I cannot stand it.  They want and want and want.  What is a poor dressmaker to do?  Poor Kitty, she was tired of those heels and wanted something a little more casual to go shopping.  (Grace from Atlanta 2009, has waited the longest and she is next, I am swearing to myself that she will be next.)  In the meantime, I thought I would share with you the way I go about the dressing. 

I believe Tiny Kitty to be a contemporary doll making this a little anachronistic, but she is now representing Mrs. Taft, so Edwardian we go.  In such small dolls, it is imperative to keep the costume for becoming ungainly.  I usually make fabric selections of very fine fabrics, not always old ones, usually of natural fibers, as they are more conducive to conservation.  In addition, I make the clothing as historically correct as I am capable.  I do take some license, however.  Tiny Kitty Collier is 10”.  Her combination, also chosen to keep from additional waistline bulk, is of fine cotton batiste. 

Miss Kitty was not happy about having pictures made in her dishabille.    So, please be kind to her.  If all works well, by this time next week I can post her corset.  Maybe even a pair of stockings.  

Here you will see where I have worked out the pattern.  Pieces on the right have a lot of notes, and hem needs shortening.  The lace is the trim I used to bind the armhole and neck edges. 

  .  

Miss Kitty is sporting her new combination. I like to wait for the closure until the corset is complete.  Most likely I will add a silk ribbon to tie the top together as the corset will hold everything together.