Light Stunt: Weeknight Porchetta

Light Stunt: Weeknight Porchetta

If you hadn't noticed from the picture above, I went rustic with this dish.

Porchetta is a traditionally an Italian dish that originates out of central Italy and is traditionally a boneless whole pig, gutted, seasoned with garlic, rosemary and fennel, and slow roasted on a spit over an open flame for several hours. This dish version is considerably faster without sacrificing flavor.

The Challenge

It's been a while, so I thought I'd use this space to explain a Light Stunt. The dishes I publish under this category are quick but flavorful dinners, similar to a #WeekdaySupper.

The Source

Adapted from page 30 of Bon Appétit magazine's January 2015 issue but I also found the recipe reprinted on their website.

Ingredients

8 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoon fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fennel seeds, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 1-pound pork tenderloins
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
8 slicers bacon
2 heads garlic, halved through the equator

Method

1. Season the pork. Before you head to the office in the morning, combine the minced garlic, chopped rosemary, fennel seeds, salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small bowl. Rub this mixture on all sides of each tenderloin. Cover, and refrigerate until you get back from the office in the evening.

2. Roast the pork. Preheat the oven to 425° Fahrenheit. Scatter the rosemary sprigs in a large baking dish, then place the seasoned pork on top of the rosemary. Wrap each tenderloin in 4 slices bacon, pushing the ends of the bacon slices underneath the tenderloin so they stay in place, then place the garlic heads around the pork and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon olive oil. Roast in the oven until the internal temperature of each tenderloin reaches 145° Fahrenheit, approximately 40 to 45 minutes. Once finished, transfer the tenderloins to a cutting board and let them rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

Analysis

This dish is very satisfying for a cold winter evening and, from a technique standpoint, is very creative with the use of bacon. As the bacon cooks, it's rendered fat is soaked up by the tenderloin, thereby keeping it moist and adding flavor.

Light Stunt: Butternut Squash and Apple Soup

Butternut Squash and Apple Soup

Am I being baptized by fire?

As you're well aware, I moved from California over this past summer. I grew up there and didn't realize how spoiled I was as a California resident from the standpoint of weather. Alas, as I sit here looking at my desktop monitor, I'm experiencing my first cold snap as a Washington resident. Overnight lows have dipped into the low 30s (that's one side or another of 0° Celsius) and it only warms to the mid 40s during the day. Consequently, I was in the mood for something warm and comforting.

The Source

Adapted from page 78 of Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking by Michael Chiarello with Janet Fletcher.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups leek, white and pale green parts only, sliced thin
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
6 cups butternut squash, peeled and cut into a coarse 1-inch dice
3 cups apples, peeled and cut into a coarse 1-inch dice
2 teaspoons toasted spice rub*
6 1/2 cups chicken stock\
Kosher salt
1/4 cup candied walnuts

Method

1. In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Once the butter browns, add the leek and sweat, approximately 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes fragrant.

2. Raise the heat, then add the squash and apples and sauté until caramelized. Stir in the toasted spice rub, then deglaze with chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and maintain until the squash and apples are tender, approximately 40 minutes.

3. Transfer to a blender, in batches if necessary, and pureé until smooth. Adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary, then transfer into warmed bowls garnished with candied walnuts. Serve immediately.

* The recipe for toasted spice rub can be found on page 24. Combine 1/4 cup whole fennel seeds, 1 tablespoon coriander seed and 1 tablespoon in a small dry skillet over medium heat. Toss frequently to ensure the spices toast evenly. Once the fennel is lightly browned, add in 1/2 tablespoon red pepper flakes and continue to toss, then remove to a plate and set aside to cool. Once cooled, grind in a spice grinder, then combine with 2 tablespoons kosher salt and 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon.

Successful?

Chef Chiarello's toasted spice rub recipe makes significantly more than what is needed for this dish so I played around with the spice amounts to achieve a balance of flavors instead of making the recipe. I was also surprised that Chef Chiarello notes the walnut garnish as optional. In my opinion, they're an integral part of the dish, providing a contrast in both flavor and texture.

Anniversary Dinner 2013 Appetizer Course: Radicchio Slaw with Warm Honey Dressing

Radicchio Slaw with Warm Honey Dressing

For those of you reading this in the United States, I hope you have a Happy Tax Day!

This past weekend, Mrs. Stuntman and I celebrated our ninth anniversary. Readers of my last website might remember we ate at the Michelin-starred Lucé in San Francisco two years ago, but I didn't address the event in 2012 so I wanted to this year. We decided to celebrate at home with our daughter. Probably Mrs. Stuntman's favorite component of my last dish I published was the Asian cole slaw, so I thought this might work well. I also liked this dish from a practical standpoint because mis en place could be prepared in advance and it didn't use a lot of dishes so I could utilize them for other courses.

The Challenge

While the execution of this dish is fairly simple, the challenge here won't be fully realized until I reveal the other two courses. Namely, to compose a well-balanced tasing menu because I'm finding that putting components harmoniously together on a plate or over a multi-course meal has proven more challenging than the preparation itself.

The Source

Adapted from page 81 of Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking by Michael Chiarello with Janet Fletcher.

Ingredients

1 medium size head radicchio
1/2 head Napa cabbage
Ice water
1 bunch watercress
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
3 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar white wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Quarter the radicchio through the core but then remove the core from each wedge. Cut the leaves into 1/8-inch wide ribbons. Halve the cabbage in a similar fashion, remove the core, and slice it into similarly 1/8-inch wide ribbons. Place both types of leaves into a large bowl and cover with ice water, then soak for 20 minutes. Drain and soak again in fresh ice water for an additional 20 minutes. Drain a second time, pat dry and set aside. Cut any thick stems from the watercress and set aside.

2. Make the dressing: Toast the fennel seeds in a dry small skillet over medium low heat until the seeds are lightly brown and aromatic, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Allow them to cool, then grind the seeds in a mortar or spice grinder.

Combine the honey, vinegar, and ground fennel seeds in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the honey dissolves. Remove from heat and whisk in the olive oil, then season with salt and pepper.

3. Toss the radicchio, cabbage, and watercress in a large bowl and add enough dressing to coat. Adjust seasoning, if necessary, then serve immediately.

Successful?

From an execution standpoint, Mrs. Stuntman thought I under-dressed the dish which was partially due to the ratio of dressing prepared to the amount of slaw to be dressed. In other words, there wasn't enough dressing so I recommend doubling the dressing ingredients. This dish did, however, work well with the entreé course which I hope to publish later this week.