Gnocchi di Patate con Piselli e Gorgonzola

Gnocchi di Patate con Piselli e Gorgonzola

Recently, it occurred to me that I've profiled not one, but two squash gnocchi dishes in addition to a ricotta gnocchi dish but I had yet to review a more common version of gnocchi: one made with potatoes. It wasn't a complete oversight because I had profiled potato gnocchi on both prior blogs, however there were several forces that had conspired together to bring this dish to fruition.

A couple of weeks ago #SundaySupper paired with OXO to preview the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday. To do so, they held a Google+ hangout where Katie of Ruffles & Truffles and Isabel of Family Foodie demonstrated OXO's new poultry lifter and kitchen twine dispenser; Susan of The Girl in the Little Red Kitchen demonstrated OXO's new potato ricer and Amy of Kimchi Mom demonstrated their new mandoline. OXO also generously donated the demonstrated items to be given away via a drawing and I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE WON! During the hangout, the potato ricer was discussed as a tool for making mashed potatoes for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday but I thought that it would be perfect for this application. I'm also excited about the mandolin because it has a setting that will julienne vegetables because I've struggled with consistency in the past.

Also, have you seen the show On the Menu which airs on TNT? Contestants are home cooks that are competing to get their original dish sold at that week's featured restaurant chain in addition to a cash prize of $25,000. Well, last week's featured restaurant is Buca di Beppo. This episode was unusual because the restaurant decided to declare two final dishes as winners instead of just one. One was a gnocchi dish, but I was almost yelling at my TV watching its preparation because of some ill-advised technique that was utilized.

Speaking of technique, I employ Chef Anne Burrell's strategy to prepare potato gnocchi. The object of the game, so to speak, is to use as little flour in the gnocchi dough as possible because it's the difference between light and fluffy gnocchi and heavy and dense gnocchi. More on that later.

The Challenge

Demonstrate the proper way to prepare potato gnocchi and to convey my appreciation for winning the giveaway by breaking in the potato ricer.

The Source

I adapted the gnocchi method from pages 105 to 106 of Cook Like A Rock Star by Anne Burrell with Suzanne Lenzer. Food Network also has her recipe online which can be found here and I also recommend watching Chef Burrell demonstrate the dish on YouTube because she also explains why she instructs you to utilize her method. The sauce is adapted from page 82 of Lidia's Favorite Recipes by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali.

Ingredients

5 large russet potatoes
2 eggs
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt
1 to 3 cups all-purpose flour, as needed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 cup chicken stock
1 ten-ounce box frozen peas, thawed
6 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

Method

1. Roast your potatoes. Preheat the oven to 375° Fahrenheit. Pierce each potato on all sides with a fork, four to five times total. Place the potatoes on a aluminum foil-lined baking sheet and roast in the oven until they are fork tender, approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour. Once the potatoes have finished, peel the skins from the potatoes and pass them through a potato ricer onto a parchment-lined sheet pan in an even layer. Placed the riced potatoes in the refrigerator to cool completely.

2. Prepare the gnocchi dough. Beat the eggs together with 3/4 cup parmesan cheese and 1 pinch kosher salt, then pour over the cooled riced potatoes. Cover the potatoes and egg mixture with 1 cup flour, then bring the mixture together with your hands. Continue to knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary until the dough is a homogeneous mixture and tacky, but still moist.

4. Cut the dough into individual gnocchi. Roll the dough into the shape of a log on a cutting board, then cut the log crosswise into 1 inch sections. Roll each section into the shape of a rope approximately 3/4-inch thick. Slice the ropes crosswise again into 1/2-inch pieces onto a sheet pan dusted heavily with flour in a single layer. This dish can be made ahead up to this point, because the gnocchi need to be cooked or frozen immediately. If you're freezing the gnocchi, do so on the sheet pan first, then once they're frozen transfer them to a resealable plastic bag.

5. Boil the gnocchi, prepare the sauce and finish the dish. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While waiting for the water to boil, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cream and chicken stock and bring to a simmer, then add the peas. Continue to reduce the sauce for an additional 5 minutes, then add the Gorgonzola. Stir until thickened, then keep warm over low heat while the gnocchi cooks. Once the water reaches a boil, add the gnocchi. Continue to boil them once they float to the top until they swell, an additional minute or two. Remove the gnocchi with a spider, toss with the sauce, serve in warmed bowls and garnish with additional Parmesan cheese.

Successful?

During the On the Menu episode, I cringed when I saw the contestant use a microwave oven to cook her potatoes before ricing them. I hope I do not sound too pretentious when I note here that I've never found radiation to be very tasty. Chef Bastianich also has a potato gnocchi recipe in her book I referenced above on page 81 but I was surprised to find that she boils her potatoes before ricing them. I have been told that using wet heat to soften potatoes will ultimately lead to heavier gnocchi because the dough will absorb more flour which is the reason why I like Chef Burrell's version of roasting them, ricing them while they're hot then making the dough when they're cold.

The potato ricer performed well, but I recommend cutting your vegetables into small sizes before passing them through because the ricer is difficult to operate with large pieces. I also recommend filling the chamber up only half way for optimum performance. Ultimately, it's much easier to use than the food mill I have which I used prior to owning the ricer.

The dish itself was a success, with Mrs. Stuntman requesting I prepare it again. I wasn't very surprised by this because I saw many versions of this flavor pairing online which is probably why Chef Bastianich included it in her cookbook too.

Paglia e Fieno for #WeekdaySupper

Paglia e Fieno

Over the course of writing this blog, I've found that I've become a fan of flavored pastas. In the past I've prepared herb-speckled pasta, chocolate pasta, and purple pasta not once, but twice. So it was a surprise that I had overlooked this dish in a cookbook I've had for over a year until now.

According to Google, paglia e fieno directly translates to straw and hay and got it's name because the regular fettuccine and the spinach fettuccine mimic straw and hay respectively. According to Chef Bastianich, the dish is a restaurant staple but I don't remember seeing it on any Italian restaurant menu that I've patronized (which makes me want to re-evaluate the authenticity of the Italian restaurants I've given my hard earned cash to, but I digress).

What makes this a weeknight meal? Quite simply, the mise en place. Prepare some onions and measure out other ingredients and you're done. 10 minutes, tops.

The Challenge

Restaurant style elegance on a weeknight.

The Source

Adapted from page 77 (with a picture of the dish on page 76) of Lidia's Favorite Recipes by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch scallions, trimmed of the roots and tips, cut in half lengthwise, then crosswise into thin strips
1 cup peas, blanched if fresh or thawed if frozen
1 4-ounce package diced prosciutto
2/3 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 ounces egg fettuccine
8 ounces spinach fettuccine
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish

Method

1. Bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil over high heat. Drop the fettuccine into the water and boil until just shy of al dente (usually 2 to 3 minutes less than the box instructions.

2. Heat the oil to a large skillet over medium heat. Once hot, add the scallions and sweat until wilted, approximately 2 minutes. Add the peas to the scallions until tender, an additional approximate 3 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook until browned slightly, approximately 2 minutes. Deglaze with chicken stock and bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and reduce the liquid by half. Then add the cream and simmer until thickened, approximately 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta, then toss with the sauce and simmer for a minute or two to blend the flavors. Serve in warmed bowls and garnish with Parmigiano.

Successful?

I had to alter the method slightly because I had dried traditional pasta and fresh store-bought spinach pasta so I added the spinach pasta later. I plan on revisiting the topic of spinach pasta later, but not appropriate for a weeknight.

Finally, a preview of this week's other WeekdaySupper participants:

• Tuesday, March 4th: Chicken Pipián Verde by La Cocina de Leslie
• Wednesday,March 5th: Shrimp Wonton Soup with Kale by Foxes Love Lemons
• Thursday, March 6th: Artichoke Spinach Pasta by Magnolia Days
• Friday, March 7th: Broccoli Rabe Pasta Toss by MealDiva

Presenting: Warm Fennel and Bitter Greens Salad

Warm Fennel and Bitter Greens Salad

This past Sunday, a certain football game was played, Punxsutawney Phil determined the fate of winter, and the second anniversary of the first dish I published on this blog. I wanted to mark the occasion with a little more flair, but time got the best of me.

As I stated earlier, one of my goals for 2014 is to eat more salads so I was looking online for ones that use ingredients that are in season now and came across this one on Food & Wine magazine's website. I thought it looked good enough to present here.

Check back tomorrow for my #SundaySupper contribution.

Pumpkin Gnocchi with Balsamic Brown Butter

Pumpkin Gnocchi with Balsamic Brown Butter

Before I discuss this recipe, I must begin by thanking you for your patience with my extended absence while I moved. Two Saturday afternoons of some friends transfering my furniture and weekdays moving all the other items makes for one very streesed out Foodie Stuntman. Well, I'm back and pumpkin recipes are all over the food blogs as of late, so I thought I'd prepare one to break in my new kitchen.

I guess the inspiration for this dish derived from the pumpkin pie episode of Good Eats where Alton Brown sarcastically notes, No, we're not gonna open a can! In fact, readers of my old website might remember about a year ago, I profiled a pumpkin risotto that I served as a first course at a dinner party. What I failed to note at the time was that I did not properly roast the pumpkin before I pureéd it because I was so caught up with my first attempt at preparing fresh pasta from scratch, not to mention the Bolognese that needed to simmer for 3+ hours. I needed to return to a pumpkin pureé to demonstrate it but also correct previous errors.

This also presented a great opportunity to use an item I won in a giveaway a couple of months ago hosted by Donna and Chad of The Slow Roasted Italian with a sauce I came across in doing some research for another project.

The Challenge

Successfuly demonstrate how to properly pureé fresh pumpkin and use it in a savory dish, so the canned version can be avoided.

The Source

My food blogger friend, Willow of Will Cook For Friends, was happy to allow me to duplicate her fresh pumpkin pureé method in addition to her pumpkin gnocchi recipe which she adapted from Heidi of Foodie Crush. I also took some elements of Alton Brown's pureé method from the episode I referred to above.

I used some of the balsamic vinegar I won from Fresina's Italian Specialties in my adaptation of Giada's Balsamic Brown Butter sauce I found on foodnetwork.com.

Ingredients

1 2 to 3 pound sugar pumpkin
kosher salt
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour, plus more as needed
1 stick unsalted butter, divided
1 large egg yolk
freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup chopped walnuts, toasted
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, chopped (for garnish)

Method

1. Make your pumpkin pureé: Preheat the oven to 400° Fahrenheit. Cut off the top of the pumpkin to remove the stem. Cut the pumpkin in half, then in quarters and scoop out the guts with an ice cream scoop. Save the seeds for another use. Place the pumpkin quarters on a parchment-lined baking sheet, skin side down and season with kosher salt to draw out moisture. Roast until fork tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let them cool for 1 hour. Peel the skin from the flesh and transfer the pumpkin to a food processor and process until smooth.

3. Make the gnocchi: In a medium saucepan, reduce the pureé over medium low heat to thicken. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter until melted and remove from heat and let it cool. Add the flour, egg yolk, and nutmeg. Then season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Knead the dough until it's tacky, but not sticky adding in more flour 1 tablespoon at at time if needed. Divide the dough into 4 balls and roll each ball into the shape of a cylinder about a 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch thick. Cut each rope crosswise into pieces 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch long. If desired, roll each piece (gnocco) against the tines of a fork to create ridges. (It holds the sauce to the gnocchi.)

3. Prepare the sauce and finish the dish: Bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Boil the gnocchi until they float to the top and swell, about a minute or two after they float to the top. Transfer the gnocchi with a slotted spoon or a colander to a warm bowl. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan cook the remaining 7 tablespoons butter over medium heat, stirring occasionally. After the foam subsides and the butter begins to turn a golden brown (about 3 minutes), turn off the heat. Let cool for about 1 minute. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and walnuts, then season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the gnocchi to the sauce and garnish with Parmesan and parsley. Serve immediately.

Successful?

These gnocchi are very similar to the russet potato version. With potato gnocchi, the most helpful demonstration I have found is one by Chef Anne Burrell which can be seen on YouTube here. I used some of her hints in this recipe. For example, before I made the gnocchi dough, I refrigerated the pureé to keep my flour additions to a minimum. In fact, Willow demonstrates a second method to pureé pumpkin but I decided against it because the excess moisture will absorb more flour.

Also, bear in mind that these gnocchi are perishable due to the addition of the egg yolk, so they need to be cooked or freezed immediately. I recommend freezing the gnocchi to keep the individual gnocchi separate. (Roll the gnocchi in flour and freeze them on a sheet pan for several hours then transfer them to a resealable bag once frozen.)

One of the factors I considered when I decided to pair my gnocchi with this sauce was my consultation with The Flavor Bible, which noted balsamic vinegar paired well with pumpkin. It was one of the most well-balanced dishes I've composed-sweet and savory, plus soft yet crunchy. Going in, I was a little skeptical that the Fresina's vinegar would be significantly different than the store-bought brands that cost one-quarter of the price but I am now convinced. The aged vinegar was still sour but it didn't have the sharp bite I expected from my experience with the supermarket brands. It was so good, I will prepare this dish again in the future. So, please use fresh pureé in your pumpkin recipes this fall.

Lastly, if you're not familiar with Willow, you should be. In addition to her website, she can be found on facebook and twitter. Heidi can also be found on twitter, facebook, pinterest, and g+.

Stuffed Chicken Thighs Braised in Tomato Sauce

Stuffed Chicken Thighs Braised in Tomato Sauce

About six months into my first website, I attempted a stuffed chicken thigh recipe, however I wasn't satisfied with the results. It was wrapped in bacon and stuffed with bread crumbs. As I remember it, the stuffing tasted good, but the chicken meat was very bland. I didn't season the chicken because I expected the bacon to add flavor to the chicken as it cooked. Ironically, it was one of my most popular recipes.

The Challenge

Fix and elevate a concept I previously executed poorly.

The Source

This recipe was taken from delish.com.

Ingredients

FOR THE CHICKEN AND STUFFING:
1 cup frozen (but thawed) or cooked spinach, squeezed dry
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs from day-old bread, preferably whole wheat
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons fennel fronds, chopped
2 tablespoons shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided
1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
10 four-to-five ounce boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE SAUCE:
2 cups onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup carrot, finely chopped
1/2 cup fennel bulb, diced
1/4 cup shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 1/2 cup dry white wine
3 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

1. Combine spinach and breadcrumbs in a medium bowl with the Parmesan, egg, fennel fronds, shallot, garlic, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until well blended. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day.

Chicken Stuffing

2. Place a chicken thigh smooth-side down on a work surface. Fill the thigh with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the stuffing, first filling the area (or pocket) left by the bone and placing the rest in the center of the thigh. Roll the thigh closed and secure with 2 pieces of kitchen string. Repeat with the remaining thighs and stuffing. (You may have leftover stuffing.) Season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper and salt.

Stuffing and Tying the Chicken

3. Heat oil in a large, heavy, high-sided skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and add half the thighs, seam-side down. Cook, turning 2 or 3 times, until brown on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a clean plate and repeat with the remaining thighs.

4. Add onion, carrot, fennel, shallots, and garlic to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and scrape up any browned bits; bring to a boil over medium heat and continue to boil until the liquid is reduced by about half, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in broth, tomatoes, basil, thyme, and the chicken thighs. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered and turning the thighs occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

Mirepoix Browning

Deglazed with White Wine

Braising Fluid Simmering

5. Remove the thighs with a slotted spoon; tent with foil to keep warm. Simmer the sauce further to thicken it, if desired, or thin with a little broth or water if it's too thick. Season with 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Serve the chicken with the sauce.

NOTE:

1. To make fresh breadcrumbs, tear bread into pieces and process in a food processor until coarse crumbs form. One slice of bread makes about 1/2 cup fresh crumbs.

Successful?

From a flavor standpoint, this dish far exceeded the oringinal one two years ago. However, I felt like I was coming full circle because the preparation work was a marathon. With experience, I've become better organized and dishes that used to take me three hours when I first started out can now be completed in one-third to half the time.

This was not the case here. I used the leftover spinach from the gnocchi recipe, however the only Parmesan I had was in wedge form so I hand grated it, and my food processor got a workout chopping the fennel fronds, carrots, shallots, and garlic plus grinding the breadcrumbs. I also hand stripped the leaves from the thyme sprigs and hand diced the fennel bulb. In addition, tying the stuffed thighs was a project by itself. It was a very good dish, but I don't think I'll repeat it often due to the amount of work involved.