Fitting Woes

Last night I thought I'd finished fitting the neverending Jumper.  Then I took photos today and realized, no.  There are wonky wrinkles in back that just won't do.  There's some wrinkling at the side seams too but I think that's from being basted together and taken in a couple cm.  Draping before final sewing should fix them.

I was mentally ready to sew the thing together.  Now I have more fitting and no motivation.  I'm hoping adding width to the back hip will fix the wrinkles, but who knows?

Fitting is so frustrating, especially on my own.  I see all these sewists with beautifully fitted dresses and wonder, how did they do that?  I can't even get a simple sheath to lie flat.

Progress, of a sort

Wow, can't believe it's been almost a week since I posted the mittens.  They're great: keep my chilly fingers warm, are much admired, and make me happy.  The angora fibers that slipped through to the right side have pilled, but I'll shave them off and be good as new!

I basted together the jumper, and all the extra side seam ease is unnecessary of course.  The back darts are too close together so need unpicked and moved over.  Otherwise it's looking good.

It's been a busy, tiring week so my first priority is taking care of myself.  Also casting on for a warmer hat--240 sts!

Jumper: Fabric's Cut!

My body hurts less and is more functional, I no longer have a sinus infection, so it's time to get sewing!  I just finished cutting the striped velveteen :)  It feels so lovely, looks fabulous even with the nap facing down (longer-wearing), and the needle slips through like butter.  I'm online to check past fitting notes--so helpful!--and now will mark the darts.

I haven't cut the brown velvet trim yet.  I know I want a strip down the front button band.  Depending how that looks, I may trim the armholes and neck with velvet.  Maybe velvet piping, if the velvet plays nicely.  Though I'm leaning toward a more plain look.

The wrong side of the fabric is soft, but cotton, so I'm thinking of adding a lining.  I may sew up a silk charmeuse slip instead.  If I don't line, seam binding sounds like a nice way to finish the edges.

Jumper Fitting 3

I've made some more progress on the jumper (fitting post 1 and post 2).  Sewing has been difficult due to nerve issues in my arm.  But on I plod...

Look ma, sewing with cardboard!

I altered the right bust dart to be horizontal and eliminated pulling from the side seam.  Adding a center front zip created a tummy pouch, so I'm rethinking a front button closure.  Either functional or faux with a side zip.

I really like the scoop neck and think it will look nice with various necklines.

Right side

Left side

I prefer the look and fit of the diagonal bust dart on the left side and welcome opinions pro or con.  The front darts need further tweaking.  Everything needs tweaking, actually.

The left side has remained unchanged, and I prefer the shorter waist dart that's slightly further from the center front.

Some experimentation on the back neckline yielded interesting results.  A small scoop, as on the left, is nice.  A deeper scoop creates folds that need pinched out, etc.

The back darts need to move toward the center.  On the right side I angled the dart below the waist so it points toward the greatest fullness (aka my buttock).  It's better than the right side so I suppose the next step is to rip out and resew the darts.  I'm not sure why the right side dart looks curved because it's a straight line.  Hmmm


Well, that's about all the energy I have today.  My arm and shoulder have really tightened up making even simple alterations difficult.  I'm hoping to get more energy so I can fix these problems and move onto making the dress.  Right now just thinking about it exhausts me.

As always, thanks for reading :)

Almost Sewing

I did get some jumper fitting done (yay!) and think I've nailed the problems.  Except that I was all set up to resew the bust dart, removed the pins, and the machine jammed.  Then the bobbin was out of thread.  So by the time I basted it by hand the seam came out wrong.  At that point I was done for the day.

Maybe tomorrow I can pin myself into the beast (I really should put a zip up the center!) and pin the dart correctly.  It's looking good, the parts I can see, so hopefully it's even better in photos :)   Meanwhile I'm in pain so spending the evening in with the cute Ella cat.

ETA: I just realized that this is my 108th post!  I'd like to do a pattern giveaway to thank my readers.  Please let me know if there's a type of pattern you'd prefer (vintage, dresses, men's, etc).  I have some 41" bust Mail Order 1950s patterns if anyone likes them.

Jumper Fitting 2

Since yesterday's jumper fitting I pinned some adjustments to the mockup and took more photos.  The main changes were adjusting the back torso for excess length and reading the wrinkles.

Yesterday

Today

The initial fit on left, today's fit on right.

The back darts need to be closer to the center, especially below the waist, so they point to the fullest area.  The left dart is further from the center and creates more drag lines.  (I really slapped this mockup together and it shows).

I like how the armhole hits at the shoulder line on right and am planning to gently scoop out the back neckline. 

I'm pretty happy with the fit above the waist, at least in this stiff fabric.  There's enough room to move but it doesn't look baggy.

Diagonal drag line :/

I don't know what to make of the diagonal drag line below the waist.  Maybe it's a symptom of the other problems. 

The front still has some problems as well, but nothing major.  Resewing the side seams from upper hip to armhole, with the fabric evenly distributed, should get rid of the drag lines from dart to side seams.  I think.

The hip adjustment has been pinned but not sewn.

Now to: adjust the back darts and side seams and check the fit.  Also rotate one bust dart so it's horizontal, leaving the other side as a control.  

I'll try the jumper on with a blouse to see how the armhole fits.  My initial idea was for the dress to be wearable on its own or with a top, then realized that sleeveless velveteen rarely makes sense ;)

Jumper Progress

I've been planning a jumper since last year.  I started with my dress block, cut that out in cotton twill to create the jumper.  I'll use cotton velveteen for the final version, with chocolate brown velvet trim.  It will button down the front, or maybe a faux button closure with underarm zip.

I really liked My at Creative Accomplishments' plaid jumper from last summer.  I hadn't considered a below-knee hem or scoop back until I saw hers.  Plus, who doesn't love plaid?

Fitting Notes:

Front: I prefer the right side above the bust (my left) and left side below it.  I like wider straps as on the left.  A square neckline seemed like a good idea but would need to be cut lower to work.  This is an everyday dress, to wear alone or over a shirt, so the neckline can't be too low.

I marked the bust apex and took a few tucks to fine tune the fit, which I'll continue to do in the flat patterning.  I hope the waist wrinkles disappear with a softer fabric.

Back: The back is not terrible but needs a swayback tuck in the worst way!  It looks like the waist is too low but doesn't feel like it on.  I'll double check next time I try it on.  Nothing like seeing photos to highlight flaws.  I trimmed the armhole on the left side and need to trim it further.  The neckline is high but includes the seam allowance.


The next step is to continue tweaking fit until I'm satisfied, then trace it and make the pattern.  I'll lengthen the hem as well.  The hips fit surprisingly well and it's comfortable to sit in.

If I just stand with my hip cocked all the time it'll look fine!

Have Fabric, Now For Patterns

I bought some lovely fabric last year to make a couple dresses.  One is an earthtone cotton velveteen stripe, the other cotton plaid in blue tones.  I have some trims for these fabrics as well.

With the velveteen I really want to make a fitted jumper (sleeveless dress).  Buttons down the back, unless they would dig into my back and make me crazy.  I recently finished a dress block for myself so should be able to draft and/or drape a pattern.

The plaid is trickier.  Initially I bought it to make a hat (label said cotton cashmere, it was with wools, I had a fibro-induced moment of stupid).
Instead I'm hoping to get a dress from it--only 1.5yd but it's ~60" wide.  The face is smooth, the reverse side brushed. I'd like to use the reverse side as an accent.










Perhaps a 60s style sheath from the plaid?  Or Vogue's 8280 dress, inspired by Roland Mouret's Galaxy (this means nothing to me ;).  Very Prairie made two great versions.  Mine would likely be sleeveless.

I also have a Burda raglan dress that could be fun, too.  Having trouble with Blogger so raglan dress is down there ↓  Same reason I linked to the Vogue dress rather than loading a pic of the pattern cover (it wouldn't. pout.)

My plan is to decide on a few silhouettes, sketch them (preferably over a photo of me so the proportions are correct), cut out the dress and hold the hole over a scale image of the fabric.  Sounds good, eh?  But first I need to find some pattern possibilities.