UNESCO World Heritage Site: Petra

Ahhh, Petra.
Words fail to truly describe one of my favorite places on the planet adequately. In short, this is a place that dreams are made of.

Take a photo tour of Petra:

 A horse buggy makes time, galloping to the top of the Siq to pick up a new visitor.

Behind it, mausoleums carved into the hillsides.

The past two years have been busy for Petra. The local Bedouins (Jordanians) have made structural, landscaping and safety improvements to keep the site, and you, safe. There are also cleaning crews constantly on the job to keep the paths clear after the army of horses, camels and donkies on site. The improvements are vastly noticeable in comparison to the state of the park during my last visit. The downside is that it feels more like a park than a discovery. But don't worry, there are still plenty of places to explore to get your Indiana Jones on.

I just can't get enough of these amazing, wind-carved walls.

 The Treasury reveals itself at the end of the Siq path

Another new development is an abundance of locals dressed up in period costumes...

 Transportation options...

 The Treasury from another angle...

Revisiting Petra by Night

During my first trip to Jordan, in 2010, I vividly remember sitting on a hand-woven red-striped camel-hair mat on the dusty, pink desert sand at the base of Petra's magical Treasury, listening to amazing, perfectly ambient Bedouin Rababa music echoing through the cavernous passages and thinking: Dagnabit, I really, really, really wish I had a travel tripod.

Seriously.

Yes, I really enjoyed the evening. It was, in fact, one of the most amazing experiences I'd ever had, but oh! the photos I was taking in my head! The photos I mourned the loss of never having because I wasn't properly equipped for night photography!!

So when I got home from that trip, I researched, and ordered a Joby gorillapod for future trips, but especially on the very slim, off-chance that I would ever return to Petra again. I mean, Petra is like one of the holy grails of travel! It's super remote and somewhat of an ordeal to get to. (The holy grail reference is especially funny if you've seen Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.)

Fast forward two years: I excitedly packed my gorillapod into a coveted few square inches of my suitcase and took off for the middle east, and my second visit to Petra, eager to snap those amazing night-shots of the world-heritage site! When my friends and I set out from Jerusalem, we brought simple, small overnight bags/backpacks with us, leaving our cumbersome suitcases in the suitcase locker at the convent in Jerusalem. It was the lightest I'd ever traveled, and I was very proud of my mad packing skills.

By the time we arrived in Wadi Musa, it had already been a LOOOONG day. I drove from Jerusalem to Eilat (~4 hours), and then crossed the border into Jordan with my friends (~1 hour), then took a cab from the border down into Petra, (~2.5 hours) arriving just as the sun was beginning to set over the pink hills.

So it wasn't until a few hours later that evening, about a half-mile into the mile-long trek down the Siq for the Petra by Night festivities, when I realized that I'd left my camera in the hotel room.

In a panic, I told my friends I was hiking back to the hotel and would meet them at the Treasury, ASAP. I knew I'd miss a few minutes of the musical performance, but I'd been before, and the camera was more important to me at that point.

So I high-tailed it in high gear up the hill, to my (fortuitously located) hotel room (In the Petra Guesthouse Hotel, a Crown Plaza property, no sponsorship received) and then hoofed it in a hurry back down to the performance.

I arrived, sweaty and breathing heavily from the exertion, only to realize once I'd found my friends, that I'd left my tripod in my suitcase, back in Jerusalem.

I'm sure it's a sub-conscious sabotage thing. You know, I didn't take the tripod so I'll have to go back, again...

 My travel peeps, Heidi and Rebecca

Petra: The High Place of Sacrifice via Wadi al Farasa

It is impossible to really see the scope of Petra unless you get off the beaten path and go further than just down the main street (way of Facades) and up to the Monastery. Beyond the well-known, easily accessible places lies a path not for the faint of heart. The High Place of Sacrifice, via Wadi al Farasa is tedious vertical trek full of precarious footholds and ancient walkways. From Wadi al Farasa it is possible to actually see just how far the complex extends - it stretches for miles and miles into the pink hills, mausoleum facades dotting the horizon much farther than the eye can see.

If you enjoy hiking (and aren't affected by heights and narrow, vertical passages), journey to the High Place of Sacrifice at Petra for an unforgettable experience.

This view was actually at least two miles in the distance (zoom lens). Most visitors never see these facades.

Age-worn steps through the hills

The path...

 The altar at the High Place of Sacrifice, and the view of the hills. The anciet city stretched out in that distance for miles. Today the Bedouins still live in tents in those hills.

 What is your name? He asked me. 

'Christy' I replied. What is yours? I asked. 

'My name is Michael Jackson.' 

Alright then.

 The Roman amphitheater on the main road in Petra. This marked the end of my hike.

The Details:
Pick up the trail at one of two places:

-Just after the first set of restrooms, on the left at the bottom of the way of Facades. Walk up the staircase there and keep going to the top of the hill (High Place of Sacrifice is there). To get to Wadi Al Farasa, leave the High place of Sacrifice via the back route, which will take you back through the hills and deposit you at the base of the hike to the Monastery (Which is the second option for picking up this hike, and the way I did it - in reverse.)

-Both the Monastery hike and The Holy Place of Sacrifice are very demanding hikes. If you aren't in great shape/used to hiking/walking, you probably shouldn't try to do both in one day.

Bring: a packed lunch. Water. Water. Water. Sunscreen. Don't forget water.

Betcha didn't know: The Bedouins at Petra now accept credit cards. That's right. I just said that. And it's true. But I really, really recommend taking cash. If you try to use a credit card, the price will go up. Credit card fees, or something...

Crossing from Israel into Jordan: The Jordanian Taxi Mafia

It is not a difficult thing to cross into Jordan from Israel at the Eilat/Aqaba border and take a taxi from there to Wadi Rum or Petra, if you know what to expect. My friends and I rented a car and drove from Jerusalem to Eilat. Rental cars are not allowed to cross into Jordan (don't even try it, for locals it's a crazy process: registration, fees, switching license plates... all involved. Foreigners would never ever get away with it.) The upside is that you can expect to safely leave your rental car at the border crossing parking lot (for free). Once you cross the border into Jordan, be prepared to for a bit of a culture shift.

We had been warned in advance, luckily, about what we'd find on the far side of the Jordanian border crossing at Aqaba.

The night prior to our departure from Jerusalem to Jordan, group member Heidi did a little internet travel forum diving and discovered a blessed tip about the state of hiring taxis once across the Jordanian border. It went something like this:  "There is an evil little man who runs the taxi mafia at the border. He will try to take you for all you're worth. He reigns over the green taxis. The cab drivers are all terrified of him and he's an aggressive sunova***** The best way to avoid him is to hire a cab to take you just to the city center bus station and then hire a normal, white taxi for far less to get to your final destination."

Sold. So we were quite prepared to play it cool and mention nary a word about the fact that we were ultimately going to Petra.

Photo by: jacobzoethout, from here: http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Middle_East/Jordan/Muhafazat_al_Aqabah/Aqaba-1800290/Transportation-Aqaba-TG-C-1.html

"Youneedtaxi? Whereareyougoing?" The heavyset man with weasely eyes approached us immediately once we were through the border fence.

"The bus station, please." We replied firmly, with braced smiles.

I could go on all day about the ensuing conversation/negotiation/near argument, but suffice it to say that it took a solid ten minutes to convince the man that we were only going to: A) take one of his green cabs to the bus station, and B) pay the 10JOD rate listed on the sign by the taxi stand, instead of his demanded 20JOD.

The border was not very busy at all that day, so he finally acquiesced, probably figuring that ten bucks was better than nothing at all, and once we walked back to the border gate and asked the guard for walking directions to the city bus station, we'd proven we were willing to walk away. (Winning that negotiation was one of those empowering life moments, I must say.) As we got into a dusty, beaten-up cab, we handed the money to the Mafia king and he took his cut and handed the meager remainder to the driver. So sad.

Once we got to the bus station, our driver could tell we were only going directly to the other cabs, whose drivers were calling out to us in droves before we even got out of our car. So with his broken English, our border-acquired cabbie tried to negotiate a fare with us to get to Petra. We were only willing to pay an additional 35JOD (having done our research). We succeed, much to the driver's consternation.

We drove far, far out into the desert, the sand and dirt all around us changing in color from golden tan to dusty rose over time. We passed Wadi Rum desert preserve (Where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed, and where I spent a night in a Bedouin camp two years prior) and kept on going, our driver muttering curses at us in Arabic the whole time. At least I think they were curses, he kept glaring at us and muttering. Not the most pleasant experience.

Now that the drive is well over, I think it would have been much better to switch drivers.

So now you know. There is an evil Jordanian taxi mafioso at the Israeli/Jordanian border crossing at Aqaba. Be firm. Stay calm. Act like you know what you're doing. Don't anger him. Because the city center is probably a good five mile walk.

Here's a Lonely Planet forum link about the subject, discussed at length!

Faraway Fantasy Friday: Marquesa Islands

When I first came up with the idea to take six months off, the plan was to focus on Italy and walking the Camino de Santiago. But then I pushed my trip back from April (this month!!) to September, and everything kind of... changed. I decided (because of the time of year) to start with Australia and the South Pacific and then head over to Europe in the Spring...

And from there, everything has continued to morph and twist and change, and today, I'm not convinced that I'll make it out of the South Pacific at all!

So many amazing little plots of land and white sand and azure water to explore! So.Many! Fiji alone has something like 300 islands!

I mean, really... I may have to hop on a sailboat as a crewmember for a while to explore all of those places. I just may.

Today especially, I'm dreaming of the Marquesa Islands, one of the most remote places left on the planet. Exactly one passenger ship sails to most of it's 15 French Polynesian islands. (A container ship converted into a no-frills, 200-passenger ship, which also delivers supplies to those islands, talk about multi-tasking!)

The total population for those 15 islands hovers right around 8,000. 8,000! Sounds like heaven to me! (I really enjoy solitude.) This is pure polynesia, one of the last vestiges of unspoilt (mostly) culture on earth.

I'm kind of obsessed with the Marquesas lately. A little bit. Okay, a lot.

This photo of Nuku Hiva is courtesy of TripAdvisor 

This photo of Nuku Hiva is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Where do you want to be today?

Jerusalem: The Ramparts Walk

A great way to see the city, literally, is to go on the Ramparts Walk. The Ramparts Walk is exactly what it sounds like: The ancient city's ramparts (the walkway atop the city walls) are available to be walked on. Just be aware, the entrance to is ridiculously difficult to find, and the walk has very limited hours. But the view is something else. And sometimes it's really, really something else... and sometimes is smells like something else. (Yuck!) But it's a great experience that shouldn't be missed, if you're so inclined.

 Above the Dung Gate. Muslim Quarter.

The details:

-Distance: ~2.5 miles.

-The walk does not circumnavigate the city. It stops on either side of the Western Wall.

-Wear Sunscreen and bring water. There is no shade for the entire walk. And you have to go from one end to the other, or go back to the entrance to get out. It's all fenced in.

-If you have balance issues, skip this feature. The walkway is extremely uneven and narrow. The iron railings that line the interior of the wall are, at times, very rickety.

-If you are traveling with small children, skip this walk. The whole time I was on the ramparts I kept having visions of my (then) two-year-old nephew (who was NOT with me on this trip) slipping through the iron grating, falling into random holes in the stone turrets and plummeting to his death a million other ways. It's NOT for children. Don't take them.

-The walk spans the entire perimeter of the old city, so you'll see very different walks of life: extreme poverty to very nice places.

-Just as often as you look below you at the people and their lives, they'll be looking at you, so be nice and considerate and don't stare.

Cost: 9 Shekels (Cash only, exact change)

Start: Look for signs by the money changing booth at the Lion Gate. End at the Dung Gate, in the Muslim Quarter (on the Via Dolorosa).

Hours: Daytime. Generally, 9am to 4pm. No Holidays. Fridays until noon only. Closed Saturdays (Shabbat). Closed for any other number of reasons, too. Good luck.

Jerusalem: The Melting Pot, in Pictures

Where else on the planet can you find this many peoples/faiths/nationalities/walks of life in a few, short blocks?

Various Christian sect members @ the Pool of Bethesda

Catholic Mass

 Israeli Soldiers at the Western Wall

Jewish girls at the Western Wall

Cross-carrying Christians traveling the Way of Agony

Some type of Orthodox Christians (Russian?) in the Christian Quarter

Now if only everyone could get along all of the time...

Checklist Checkin: 5 months

There is a lot to be deconstructed accomplished before I can up and leave for my world-wide gallivant. I'm happy to say that I am well on my way!

Here's what I'm currently working on with five months to go:

-The great escape plan: Cruise booked. (Still need to book accomodations in Australia for when I arrive.)
-Lease termination: In the works. This is a bit painful because I currently live in the sweetest location, with the most ridiculously affordable rent, which is why I've lived here for six years. Getting rid of my place is not a decision I came to lightly.
-Sell my Car: Okay, I haven't done anything about this yet, it's too early. I still need to get around for the next five months. But I've come up with a game-plan. I'll try and sell my car myself in early September. If it hasn't sold by the time I leave, I'll take it to a dealership and sell it.
-Savings: On track. (Knock on wood!)
-Cleaning out/clearing away: I took a pretty substantial chunk of old clothing out of my closet a couple of weeks ago. Filled up two huge lawn and leaf trash bags with beautiful, hardly worn clothing. Yah, that was painful. I've also taken a first dive at paring down my huge book collection to just the essentials (classics and useful university books). The rest will go to the local library.

But most importantly, I'm doing my darnedest NOT to make plans. I want to be able to wander on this trip, to be flexible and just "go with it". And I'm a planner. This is a lot harder than it sounds!

Are you planning something big? 
Is it under-way? 
What stage are you in?

 Look familiar? That's a page from my finished/printed travel calendar project!

A Walk Through Jerusalem's Souk

In Israel, the bazaar, or marketplace is called the souk (pr: shook).

Old Jerusalem's souk is a glorious maze! It winds from the Via Dolorosa, sprawling along every street and every corner until one reaches the Jewish and Armenian quarters. It is truly one of those places on earth someone could get lost in and never be found again. It's like the shopping world's equivalent of the Bermuda triangle. There are many parts to the whole. Nearest the Christian quarter and the Stations of the Cross in the Muslim quarter, you'll find shops set up expressly for the tourists. Beads, carpets, juice vendors and schwarma stands, baubles, t-shirts proclaiming "Welcome to Palestine. Don't call it Israel" and I heart Jerusalem can be found everywhere. Every so often, you'll find a really cool store so packed full of trays, lamps, and other metal wares that you'll think you ended up in Aladdin's cave. Leather goods, jewelry, electronics, sweet shops: all can be found in the touristy part of the souk.

But should you venture deeper into the recesses of the souk, in the heart of the muslim quarter, you'll find the inner workings of daily life in Israel: homeware stores, spice shops, butchers and fishmongers, clothing sellers and fabric stores. Here you'll be harassed by eager shopkeepers less than you would on the outskirts of the souk. Here is the real, beating heart of the souk. Grab a falafel and go for a wander.

 A pair of doves for purchase in the market. I wonder if these have been trained to fly back to the shop keeper when released?

The best spice shop my friends and I found in the whole of Jerusalem. The shop keeper (pictured) chatted with us for nearly an hour, telling us what each spice was, what it could be used for and telling us recipes. He even invited us to eat with his family, sadly, we were leaving town and couldn't accept.

 

 Women shopping for their meat. Lamb, anyone?

 A tailor, using one an old-school sewing machine. They don't build 'em like they used to.

 Near the Christian quarter, we found this fantastic textile shop. Absolutely gorgeous fabrics, table dressings, scarves, etc. The owner was trying to sell Rebecca a "dancing outfit." (If you go into this man's shop, beware, he's sweet and friendly, and handsy!!)

Heidi and Rebecca with the shop keeper in their finds.

NephewQ's Three-Year Photos

NephewQ turned three a while back and to celebrate, I was able to take his three-year photos. They really show off his cute little personality, don't you think?

 Q how old are you? "Two, furee, four, five..." 

Close enough!

 Little lady Avery

 Look at that little chubster! Little Rhys.

 You two are suspect... highly suspect!

 Love that little Stinkerbug!!